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Re: Boxcar red
Westerfield <westerfield@...>
John - Railroads maintained "drift cards" of the standard colors they used for quality control. PRRT&HS for example sold sets of cards made from company samples. Contact the historical societies for the cars you're interested in. Many have discussed matching their railroad's colors. You can find an assortment of standard colors in the 1919 Car Builder's Cyc - Al Westerfield
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Re: Binghamton Yard
benjaminfrank_hom <b.hom@...>
Jace Kahn wrote:
"So many DL&W steam views concentrate on the superpower Poconos and Hudsons, but it is the smaller locomotives that moved the interesting way freights." Unfortunately, I think that's true across the board. Modelers love big steam, but few actually have large enough layouts where it could be used to its fullest potential. As the proud owner of a section of a friend's LIRR Long Island City layout (inherited after he moved), I could sure use a good Pennsy Consolidation to move trains to the carfloats more than a T1. Ben Hom |
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Binghamton Yard
Justin Kahn
Absolutely gorgeous; to keep me out of jail, I shall thank Ben for identifying the freight cars in the background, but the lineup to the front is breathtaking: that funny hump on the one in the center (for those unfamiliar with DL&W) is a rebuilt Mother Hubbard, one of the 4-4-0's used in light passenger service in central New York State, and the branchline steam, the 2-8-0's and 2-6-0's are wonderful. So many DL&W steam views concentrate on the superpower Poconos and Hudsons, but it is the smaller locomotives that moved the interesting way freights.
Sorry to enthuse all over the keyboard... Jace Kahn, General Manager Ceres and Canisteo RR Co. two truths jump out athttp://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-03-22-08/y_DLW_Binghamton_turntable.jpg you: This is a shot taken on a Railfan excursion from Scranton to Binghamton and return. That said, the _________________________________________________________________ Test your Star IQ http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_HMTAGMAR |
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Re: Boxcar red
John Hile <john66h@...>
--- In STMFC@..., "John F. Cizmar" <jfcizmar1966@...> wrote:
John, Volume 3 of the Railway Prototype Cyclopedia series had a table of freight car reds and browns with model paint suggestions. It is sold out from the publisher, but copies may still be available from other sources. Hope this is helpful, John Hile |
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Re: Boxcar red
Stokes John
The point is that the generic color "boxcar red" varied greatly from railroad to railroad, from era to era, and often from paint batch to paint batch within the same railroad and era. Only the painters who painted the cars know what the true color was, even paint chips can be off. The best bet is to find some prototype references for the desired box car one wants to paint, from books, magazines or most likely from railroad historical societies. The truth is, within ranges of shades as All notes below, you will not be able to replicate the exact shade anyway, and it really doesn't matter given the almost infinite variables of real life paint in the 19th and 20th century, so a good "boxcar red" in the era appropriate shade (from a red red to tuscan to even a brown) will do just fine. Happy researching.
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John Stokes Bellevue, WA To: STMFC@...: water.kresse@...: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 17:06:05 +0000Subject: Re: [STMFC] Boxcar red You should also ask what era: The C&O Freight Car Brown went from Red Oxide to Muddy River Red Oxide to a Reddish-Brown to an Almost-Tuscan Red in the 1960s.Al Kresse-------------- Original message -------------- From: "John F. Cizmar" <jfcizmar1966@...> I visited a LHS in Racine, Wis. over the weekend. They stock Scalecoat II paint in (3) shades of Boxcar red. Is there a "cheat sheet" as to which RR's used which flavor?John F. Cizmar ---------------------------------Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
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Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers
Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Richard Hendrickson wrote:
Each wheel can then be chucked in a small lathe or other power tool and the treads cleaned and polished . . . Of course, this assumes that you're using metal wheels . . .Yeah, good point--those plastic wheel treads just won't take the same shine <g>. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history |
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Re: Boxcar red
water.kresse@...
You should also ask what era: The C&O Freight Car Brown went from Red Oxide to Muddy River Red Oxide to a Reddish-Brown to an Almost-Tuscan Red in the 1960s.
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Al Kresse -------------- Original message --------------
From: "John F. Cizmar" <jfcizmar1966@...> I visited a LHS in Racine, Wis. over the weekend. They stock Scalecoat II paint in (3) shades of Boxcar red. Is there a "cheat sheet" as to which RR's used which flavor? John F. Cizmar --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. |
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Re: KrylonWeathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers
benjaminfrank_hom <b.hom@...>
Joe Ludley wrote:
"Krylon makes several camouflage colors (4 I think) in the spray can when used with Molders Choice templates make a quick and simple way to start the process. This paint works on metal as well as plastic." In light of the subject discussion, I can't see how any of these colors would work. (Click on the "Colors and MSDS" link for the colors available.) http://tinyurl.com/3dqdxr Ben Hom |
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soft iron wire
ed_mines
Year aho I bought a spool of the smallest size of soft iron wire
available from McMasters. It's 30 gage (gauge?) & .014 inches. The wire is a very uniform flat black. It was perfect for the side grab irons on Intermountain's SFRD reefer. I'd like to get the wire in smaller sizes for brake lines but the maufacturer said I had the smallest diameter regularly stocked. Is the jewelers tool for reducing the diameter of wire easy to use? Would it strip off some of the black? If it did would black it or some other chemical restore the black color? Would the tool strip off the green color from florists wire? Has anyone ever removed the green coating? I have some larger sizes of soft iron wire from the same source (McMasters) which are the more typical silvery iron color with patches of rust. Years ago I used the "blacken it" chemical on Arbour castings which were made of some sort of soft metal. It did the job and then some. The Arbour kit was real jumk. Ed |
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Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers
Jim Williams <wwww5960@...>
Bruce....Good point. First I do all my wheel sets that way. Second, I should have pointed out that the 50-50 mix doesn't look like rust, it produces a color that I think is a good starting point for the wheels. How much weathering you will add from that point will depend on how heavy the weathering is done on the car's truck sideframes and the car itself.
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I should also point out that I paint and decal all my cars and most are then weathered by Jerry Spolema at the "Whistle Stop" in Pasadena. I of course think he is the best at this and I don't what to appear to be taking credit for developing the process. He is the one that started me doing the 50-50 mix, and when I do cars I'm trying to duplicate the effect I see him acheive. Sometimes with newly shopped cars there's no further weathering of the wheels, and sometimes gray and black washes are used until they appear dirty enough. The sideframes always get washes, first a rust and then it's toned down with either gray or black. Bottom line I think the 50-50 mix doesn't look like rust, but an exposed metal surface, that most closely replicates what I see in color photos. And of course "beauty is in the mind of the beholder" that's why I recommend you try it first.......... Finally your last line about "toning down and blending" is right on the money and probably the most important step in the process....... Hope this helps......Best Jim ----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> To: STMFC@... Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 5:42:04 AM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers On Mar 23, 2008, at 11:08 PM, Jim Williams wrote: Hi......I do the following usually with 50+ axels at a time. FirstJim, It's not clear from your post just how much you weather the faces of your wheels, and you do not state if these are for roller or plain bearing trucks so I wanted to point out that, as has been said here repeatedly, the outer wheel faces on plain bearing trucks should show NO RUST at all, unless the car has just been to the RIP track for new wheels. The "seals" on plain bearing trucks leaked oil at prodigious rates leading to a coating of oil and grime within a few miles. To paint my wheels, I use a cardboard mask set and then spray rust on the inner faces and axles and grimy black, or weathered black or oily black on the outer faces. Subsequent weathering while on the car tones down the rust and blends the different blacks. Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL http://www.vetmed. auburn.edu/ index.pl/ bruce_f._ smith2 "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield." __ / \ __<+--+>____ _________ ___\__/__ _ ____________ _________ _________ __ |- ______/ O O \_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ | | / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 \ | ||__||__||__ ||__||__| |__||__|| __|| |/__________ _________ _________ _\|_|____ _________ _________ _________ _| | O--O \0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping |
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Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers
Rod Miller
An alternative to the sandpaper is to use a Bright Boy. Lightly
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touch the end surface to a bench grinder (a carefully applied cut-off wheel in a grinder may also work) to put a sharp corner on it which allows cleaning the root of the flange. This also serves to polish the wheel tread. NWSL's steel O scale wheels look great after this. Rod Richard Hendrickson wrote: [snip] on the backs and axles overlap on the wheel treads. Each wheel can then be chucked in a small lathe or other power tool and the treads cleaned and polished with fine (e.g., 320) abrasive paper. I cut the abrasive paper into approximately 1" wide strips, fold it to make it reasonable stiff, and keep doing that until it's used up. Of course, this assumes that you're using metal wheels such as Kadee, Life-Like, or - my preference - Code 88 wheels from Reboxx, Intermountain, NWSL, etc. |
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KrylonWeathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers
Joe Ludley
Krylon makes several camouflage colors (4 I think) in the spray can when used with Molders Choice templates make a quick and simple way to start the process. This paint works on metal as well as plastic.
Joe Ludley |
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Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers
I said:
Richard replied:To paint my wheels, I use a cardboard mask set and then spray rust on Bruce is, of course, correct about the wheels on solid bearing trucks.Actually, I did, but I wasn't clear <VBG>. The cardboard mask has holes cut in it the size of the wheels. I use 2 masks to make a sandwich, with the wheels/axles in between. Thus, I can spray the grime on the outside and rust on the inside in a single session. The cardboard masks the treads and keeps them clean, so I have no additional clean up work to do! Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2 "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield." __ / \ __<+--+>________________\__/___ ________________________________ |- ______/ O O \_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ | | / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 \ | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__|| |/_____________________________\|_|________________________________| | O--O \0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0 |
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Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers
Richard Hendrickson
On Mar 24, 2008, at 5:42 AM, Bruce Smith wrote:
It's not clear from your post just how much you weather the faces ofBruce is, of course, correct about the wheels on solid bearing trucks. But what neither he nor any other respondents on this topic has addressed is how you get the wheel treads shiny, an effect that contributes greatly to realism. I hand-paint wheel sets with a brush, a process that's simple and quick because you don't have to be precise about where the dirty gray/black on the wheel faces and the dirty rust on the backs and axles overlap on the wheel treads. Each wheel can then be chucked in a small lathe or other power tool and the treads cleaned and polished with fine (e.g., 320) abrasive paper. I cut the abrasive paper into approximately 1" wide strips, fold it to make it reasonable stiff, and keep doing that until it's used up. Of course, this assumes that you're using metal wheels such as Kadee, Life-Like, or - my preference - Code 88 wheels from Reboxx, Intermountain, NWSL, etc. Richard Hendrickson |
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Re: ATSF see through box car
ed_mines
--- In STMFC@..., Steve Kay wrote:
It seems to me that in my youth I got a photo of similar car built byIt was featured in the Kratville freight car magazine (circa 1980) in the box car issue. Ed |
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Re: Ribbed Side Gondolas
Richard Hendrickson
On Mar 23, 2008, at 11:14 PM, sswcharlie wrote:
Cotton Belt had some 54 ft gondolas with horizontal ribbed sides (The Santa Fe had numerous classes of gondolas, both fixed and drop bottom, with corrugated side sheets that were built in the 1950s. AFAIK models of these have never been produced, nor are there patterns for kit-bashing; kit-bashing would be problematic, anyway, as I'm not aware of any gondola models that, if modeled with corrugated sides, would be anywhere near accurate for either the SSW or Santa Fe prototypes. Of course, anyone who produced patterns for any of these cars could doubtless get a manufacturer of resin kits such as Sunshine, F&C, Speedwitch, etc. to produce models. (Hint, hint.) Richard Hendrickson |
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Boxcar red
John F. Cizmar
I visited a LHS in Racine, Wis. over the weekend. They stock Scalecoat II paint in (3) shades of Boxcar red. Is there a "cheat sheet" as to which RR's used which flavor?
John F. Cizmar --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. |
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Re: SOLD. . cars for sale
--- In STMFC@..., "Bill McCoy" <wpmccoy@...> wrote:
All are sold. Thanks for looking. I have the following kits for sale. All are new in box.Line" assembled with Kadees. $8.00 |
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Re: HO screen material- thamks!
lnnrr <lnnrr@...>
Thank you fellows for the great suggestions. I'm hoping this
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project will be worth bringing to Cocoa next January. Chuck Peck --- In STMFC@..., "lnnrr" <lnnrr@...> wrote:
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Re: Weathering wheels, trucks, and hoppers
On Mar 23, 2008, at 11:08 PM, Jim Williams wrote:
Hi......I do the following usually with 50+ axels at a time. First I primer the wheels. After they dry, I use a 50-50 mixture of Flouquil Rust and Roof Brown on inside and outside of the wheels. ............ Again after the wheel sets dry I install back in the sideframes and darken or lighten them with washes of gray or grimy black as I weather the bolsters.Jim, It's not clear from your post just how much you weather the faces of your wheels, and you do not state if these are for roller or plain bearing trucks so I wanted to point out that, as has been said here repeatedly, the outer wheel faces on plain bearing trucks should show NO RUST at all, unless the car has just been to the RIP track for new wheels. The "seals" on plain bearing trucks leaked oil at prodigious rates leading to a coating of oil and grime within a few miles. To paint my wheels, I use a cardboard mask set and then spray rust on the inner faces and axles and grimy black, or weathered black or oily black on the outer faces. Subsequent weathering while on the car tones down the rust and blends the different blacks. Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2 "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield." __ / \ __<+--+>________________\__/___ ________________________________ |- ______/ O O \_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ | | / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 \ | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__|| |/_____________________________\|_|________________________________| | O--O \0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0 |
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