I agree. I would be interested in a "book" or CD of all of the sheets.
______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

I'm sure glad you are arriving. We look forward to the SEAC clinic.
______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

I'm sure glad you are arriving. We look forward to the SEAC clinic.
______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

I'm sure glad you are arriving. We look forward to the SEAC clinic.
______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

--- In STMFC@..., Hummer Dave <hummerdaves@...> wrote:

Have you tried Future Floor wax ?
The decal will float right down in it and look like pad print

lettering.

When dry you can add what ever decal solvent you like.
Regards Hummer

Do I understand you correctly? You are using the Future for the
gloss undercoat on to which you are decaling?

Jared Harper
Athens, GA

I've heard about Future floor wax in modeling, but I didn't picture
its use this way. Do I have this right... I brush some Future onto
the surface and lay the decals in it? How long do I have to adjust
them?
About sizing (glue), that sounds like a reasonable explanation. I
remember decaling instructions from long ago, that you aren't trying
to glue the decal to the car... all that needs to come off. I wonder
if the L-53 sets were manufactured differently or it was a bad batch?
I'm one of those who lays the word or letter on a smooth bottle cap
and adds a bit of water. This time around I'll certainly go back to
letting the pieces swim in the cup and then fishing them out.
By the way, I'm using the L-53 alphabet for a 20 LETTER phrase, not 20
WORDS as I stated. (If it was 20 words, I'd probably be out of the
hobby by now!)

--- In STMFC@..., Hummer Dave <hummerdaves@...> wrote:

Have you tried Future Floor wax ?
The decal will float right down in it and look like pad print

lettering.

When dry you can add what ever decal solvent you like.
Regards Hummer


---------------------------------
Groups are talking. We're listening. Check out the handy changes to

Yahoo! Groups.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Also helps to let them float free from the backing for a bit.
--

Brian Ehni



From: Michael Watnoski <freestatesystems1@...>
Reply-To: <STMFC@...>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 18:13:26 -0400
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Decaling issues





Hi Scott,

The problem you are having may involve the sizing from the
backing sheet. Decals have a slimey, glue like substance to
prevent the plastic lacquer film from sticking to the porous
paper. This is a gelatin like material. This has to be disolved
completely in the water soak before appling the decal to the
model. Any remaining sizing will leave a residue under the decal
that cannot be disolved by the solvent. Allow your decals to
soak completely then wipe them over the edge of the container
before placing them on the model.

Michael

Charlie - One reason I won't be doing it is that it requires good prototype photos. Most of what I worked from was photocopies supplied by others. I can't afford to buy lots of prints. For anyone wanting the sheets I sell them for $1.00 per page. A lot of modelers in other scales have purchased them to scratch build the models. - Al

Have you tried Future Floor wax ?
The decal will float right down in it and look like pad print lettering.
When dry you can add what ever decal solvent you like.
Regards Hummer


---------------------------------
Groups are talking. We’re listening. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo! Groups.

I always apply the Solvaset under the decal. Even Microscale gives me some
time to make slight adjustments, and the decals snug down well. As others
have stated, Microscale decals are very fussy, being a thinner film than
most, but even there I¹ve had few problems (I won¹t say I¹ve been 100%
successful, OK?), but as an example, I just applied the 6 huge ATSF round
logos from HO set 87-264 without incident.
--

Brian Ehni



From: scottp3212000 <scottp459@...>
Reply-To: <STMFC@...>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 21:10:28 -0000
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Decaling issues





My standard procedure for many years has been to apply several decal
pieces to the (glossy) model surface with just water (nowadays
distilled water.) I remove some water with the edge of a paper towel,
but I leave enough to let me scoot things around. When I think I have
it right, I let it dry. When I come back, if I still think it looks
good, I apply just a bit of Solvaset at the edge of each piece-- I
don't want anything to start floating again, and I don't want to push
anything out of position with the brush.
After that dries, the pieces seem to be somewhat stuck in place, so I
cover everything a larger amount of Solvaset. About the only problem
I generally have to deal with is air bubbles, which I prick with a
knife point. Just lately I started listening to the advice to
overcoat with Gloss, even if the final finish will be Matte.
On this project I ordered Champ stripes and Globe Extended alphabets,
all dulux gold, in several sizes. I was creating a lettering scheme
as I went along-- in fact, the two sides of the car are quite
different. My procedure worked well, even where I left a fairly wide
area of clear film to keep two stripes parallel. A few bubbles here
and there but repeated applications of Solvaset got them under control.
All the problem is in a 20 word phrase I created using the largest of
the alphabets, the 3/16" set L-53. A lot of the film around the
letters, and inside the O's, looked dry and crusty from the
beginning. As each application of Solvaset dried, the look returned.
Touching with a knife point proved that it was lifting off the surface
like peeling skin. Other lettering is fine on the adjoining areas of
the car, so I don't see how it can be a problem with the surface.
I had an additional set L-53, so I removed that phrase, repainted, and
lettered it again, with the same results.
I asked Champ if there had been problems with that particular set.
Connie told me if I'm making repeated applications of solvent OVER the
decal, I'm attacking the ink. Champ Decal-Set instructions say to
apply it to the surface before decaling, and in very small amounts
afterward for trouble spots.
Now I have a bottle of Champ Decal-Set which I tested with one
letter. Seems like a dandy idea to put something UNDER the decal,
although I wonder how much chance I have for adjusting and
readjusting, as I usually do. On the test, the letter didn't seem to
be snuggling over the rivets at all. Eventually I switched back to
Solvaset and at least the snuggling began! I also tried Microscale's
products at one point, but Connie said "I hope you're not using
Microscale's" so I put those away.
I have enough letters left to do it for a third time... I've repainted
again-- very glossy-- and I'll be back to lettering tonight, so I'm
looking for any hints.
Scott Pitzer

Hi Scott,

The problem you are having may involve the sizing from the
backing sheet. Decals have a slimey, glue like substance to
prevent the plastic lacquer film from sticking to the porous
paper. This is a gelatin like material. This has to be disolved
completely in the water soak before appling the decal to the
model. Any remaining sizing will leave a residue under the decal
that cannot be disolved by the solvent. Allow your decals to
soak completely then wipe them over the edge of the container
before placing them on the model.

Michael


scottp3212000 wrote:

Al-
I would respectfully disagree..... having your sheets in one place would be very handy as opposed to having to hunt down
various and sundry books and magazines to get the information. I would add the CD or book to my library and I'd bet
many STMFC guys would as well...
Thank you,
Charlie Vlk

My standard procedure for many years has been to apply several decal
pieces to the (glossy) model surface with just water (nowadays
distilled water.) I remove some water with the edge of a paper towel,
but I leave enough to let me scoot things around. When I think I have
it right, I let it dry. When I come back, if I still think it looks
good, I apply just a bit of Solvaset at the edge of each piece-- I
don't want anything to start floating again, and I don't want to push
anything out of position with the brush.
After that dries, the pieces seem to be somewhat stuck in place, so I
cover everything a larger amount of Solvaset. About the only problem
I generally have to deal with is air bubbles, which I prick with a
knife point. Just lately I started listening to the advice to
overcoat with Gloss, even if the final finish will be Matte.
On this project I ordered Champ stripes and Globe Extended alphabets,
all dulux gold, in several sizes. I was creating a lettering scheme
as I went along-- in fact, the two sides of the car are quite
different. My procedure worked well, even where I left a fairly wide
area of clear film to keep two stripes parallel. A few bubbles here
and there but repeated applications of Solvaset got them under control.
All the problem is in a 20 word phrase I created using the largest of
the alphabets, the 3/16" set L-53. A lot of the film around the
letters, and inside the O's, looked dry and crusty from the
beginning. As each application of Solvaset dried, the look returned.
Touching with a knife point proved that it was lifting off the surface
like peeling skin. Other lettering is fine on the adjoining areas of
the car, so I don't see how it can be a problem with the surface.
I had an additional set L-53, so I removed that phrase, repainted, and
lettered it again, with the same results.
I asked Champ if there had been problems with that particular set.
Connie told me if I'm making repeated applications of solvent OVER the
decal, I'm attacking the ink. Champ Decal-Set instructions say to
apply it to the surface before decaling, and in very small amounts
afterward for trouble spots.
Now I have a bottle of Champ Decal-Set which I tested with one
letter. Seems like a dandy idea to put something UNDER the decal,
although I wonder how much chance I have for adjusting and
readjusting, as I usually do. On the test, the letter didn't seem to
be snuggling over the rivets at all. Eventually I switched back to
Solvaset and at least the snuggling began! I also tried Microscale's
products at one point, but Connie said "I hope you're not using
Microscale's" so I put those away.
I have enough letters left to do it for a third time... I've repainted
again-- very glossy-- and I'll be back to lettering tonight, so I'm
looking for any hints.
Scott Pitzer

the problem is probably with the specific decal set. suggest you cut
the solvaset 50%/50% with distilled water to lessen its strength and
try to see if that works. other than that, i would overspray the decal
set with either glooscote and when dry, apply as normal. i know that
some of the later champ alphabet lettering sets were "fragile" when it
comes to decal set solutions, and would curl up at times if the full
strength solutions was used.

woody

Solvaset works well on standard thickness decals (Walthers, Champ), but
is too strong for thin film decals (Microscale). MS makes Microset, a
diluted version of the same stuff, I presume. I have found that
Solvaset on MS decals will cause them to curdle. In a pinch, I have
used Solvaset diluted with water to set MS decals.

regards,

Andy Miller



________________________________

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On
Behalf Of Brian Paul Ehni
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 3:03 PM
To: STMFC List
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Decaling issues



I¹ve never used anything else (Solvaset) on any brand decal,
and never a
problem. What¹s the issue?
--

Brian Ehni

From: scottp3212000 <scottp459@...
<mailto:scottp459%40earthlink.net> >
Reply-To: <STMFC@...
<mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> >
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 18:16:31 -0000
To: <STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> >
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Decaling issues

I thought about pretending it's on a freight car, but it would
have
looked suspicious when I mentioned the main problem is with set
L-53
(Globe Extended alphabet, Dulux Gold) !!!
Scott Pitzer

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"scottp3212000" <scottp459@...> wrote:
>
> Where's a good place to discuss decaling techniques,
especially
> regarding the various solvents? I ask because of a problem
I'm
having
> with Champ decals and Walthers Solvaset, a combination I've
used
many
> times with at least A- results, and in this case it's D+
results.
> (But it's not on a freight car.)
>
> Scott Pitzer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Whew!! You had me worried ;-)

regards,

Andy Miller



________________________________

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On
Behalf Of Westerfield
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 3:03 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Westerfield's retirement



Andy - Actually, I have supplied the data in the sheets to
others for use in their books and articles so there wouldn't be much
point in putting it all together. And the reports of my retirement are
premature. Since selling the business is my retirement program I could
be working for some years yet. - Al

I¹ve never used anything else (Solvaset) on any brand decal, and never a
problem. What¹s the issue?
--

Brian Ehni



From: scottp3212000 <scottp459@...>
Reply-To: <STMFC@...>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 18:16:31 -0000
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Decaling issues





I thought about pretending it's on a freight car, but it would have
looked suspicious when I mentioned the main problem is with set L-53
(Globe Extended alphabet, Dulux Gold) !!!
Scott Pitzer

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"scottp3212000" <scottp459@...> wrote:

Where's a good place to discuss decaling techniques, especially
regarding the various solvents? I ask because of a problem I'm

having

with Champ decals and Walthers Solvaset, a combination I've used

many

times with at least A- results, and in this case it's D+ results.
(But it's not on a freight car.)

Scott Pitzer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy - Actually, I have supplied the data in the sheets to others for use in their books and articles so there wouldn't be much point in putting it all together. And the reports of my retirement are premature. Since selling the business is my retirement program I could be working for some years yet. - Al

I thought about pretending it's on a freight car, but it would have
looked suspicious when I mentioned the main problem is with set L-53
(Globe Extended alphabet, Dulux Gold) !!!
Scott Pitzer

--- In STMFC@..., "scottp3212000" <scottp459@...> wrote:

Where's a good place to discuss decaling techniques, especially
regarding the various solvents? I ask because of a problem I'm

having

with Champ decals and Walthers Solvaset, a combination I've used

many

times with at least A- results, and in this case it's D+ results.
(But it's not on a freight car.)

Scott Pitzer