Date   

Re: decaling Westerfield models

Brian Carlson
 

Thanks all. Since the first model I plan to decal is a carload of PRR HB-1 containers for the G22B gondola. I may try Champ on one side and Mircoscale on the other since I plan to weather the crap out of the containers like Elden Gatwood's model in a issue of TKM.

Brian Carlson

Schuyler Larrabee <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Hendrickson [mailto:rhendrickson@...]

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model . . . .

Brian carlson
Brian . . . . I usually use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with
water first,
I bet Richard left out the word "distilled," as in "distilled water" because
regular tap water has lots of salts and other crud in it which will show up on
your model as water spots. So, to a degree, will the glue on the decal, but
nowhere as much. Distilled water is available at the grocery store and at
stores like CVS. Cheap too.

SGL


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Grabs

Schuyler Larrabee
 

So, looking to improve the MILW rib-side cars, I've scraped off the 'shelves' on
the left end of the sides, to replace them with some proper grabs.

I have some left over from Branchline kits, and some from other kits (don't
recall) and I also have some Details Associates bracket grabs (FC6209).

The first two scale out 16" between the brackets, the DA grabs at 20". OK so
I'm obsessing of .023" here, but which is right? Or righter?

Before cutting them off those shelves (the cast-on grab representations)
measured .230" o.a. length, which would include the brackets. The Branchline
and ??? Versions measure about .243", and the DA grabs about .275". It appears
to me that the Branchline grabs are best.

Opinons?


And why doesn't somebody make these in brass? Or do they, and I haven't found
them yet?


SGL


Re: decaling Westerfield models

Richard Townsend
 

Obviously you're not using water from Lithia Park!

Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:

I use tap water with no problem because Ashland city
water is very good to start with
Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


--
Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, Oregon


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Re: decaling Westerfield models

Richard Hendrickson
 

From Schuyler Larrabee:

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Hendrickson [mailto:rhendrickson@...]

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model . . . .

Brian carlson
Brian . . . . I usually use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with
water first,
I bet Richard left out the word "distilled," as in "distilled water" because
regular tap water has lots of salts and other crud in it which will show up on
your model as water spots. So, to a degree, will the glue on the decal, but
nowhere as much. Distilled water is available at the grocery store and at
stores like CVS. Cheap too.
Schuyler's point is well taken, though I don't personally bother with
distilled water. I use tap water with no problem because Ashland city
water is very good to start with and we have a whole-house filter that
removes what few impurities there might be in it. However, tap water in
many locations might cause problems and distilled water is, as Schuyler
says, inexpensive and readily available.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: reefer related question

Douglas Harding <d.harding@...>
 

Bill
PHP stands for packing house products, as in Meat Packing. In my research I
did not find it restricted to hog, or by-products, but could cover beef,
lamb, etc.

Some exchanges I had with a former IC dispatcher about meat trains a while
back, indicated that most cars being transferred to the IC contained PHP,
nothing more was noted. Yet I know they contained hanging meat, canned meat,
processed meat, etc. To quote "Oh, the meat trains (PHP for "packinghouse
products" on the train consist) were indeed hot." Below is a portion of a
longer message with additional references to PHP.

PHP might have been a designation used by some roads, more than others.

Doug Harding
Iowa Central Railroad
http://d.harding.home.mchsi.com/

Dear Doug:

I'm a long-ago-retired IC telegrapher, train dispatcher, chief train
dispatcher, Asst Supt of Transportation, etc. and received your e-mail
request for info regarding IC meat trains during the 40's and 50's. From
1946 until 1968 I was located on the Iowa Division of the IC and moved to
Chicago when the 7 train dispatchers offices throughout the system were
centralized here beginning in 1968.

If you will give me your snail mail address, I'll send you copies of two
articles about meat trains, one from the IC Green Diamond magazine and the
other from the Central Standard Times, a magazine written for the former
Chicago Central RR. The pix from these articles are in B&W and two of them
are photos of meat trains, one pulled by a steam engine and another pulled
by 4 diesels, but the refgrs cannot be identified.

Almost always pix of meat trains concentrate on the locomotives and are not
close-ups of regrs. I have some RR photos, some of which are in color, and
I believe some are of meat trains, but, unfortunately, I cannot find them at
this time. Most of my RR pix were taken by W.L.Heitter (Bill), a long time
friend of mine whose pix are shown in many magazines. Bill passed away a
few years ago.

I'll keep looking for my pix and will send them to you if they are found.
If you would see my basement with years and years of treasure, you would
understand how things get misplaced.

Most of the info in the articles I referred to is fairly accurate, but a few
of my comments follow:

PHP from Storm Lake Iowa was picked up by a Cherokee to FtDodge local and
taken to Fort Dodge where it was added to either SCF-6 (Sioux City to Chgo
meat train) or CC-6 (CoBluffs to Chgo meat train), usually SCF6.

Late in the afternoon Monday thru Saturday we ran a turn around local from
Waterloo to Iowa Falls (50 miles) and return. On its eastward trip this was
the train which picked up the Decker PHP (packinghouse products) at Ackley
and took it to Waterloo to be added to one of the meat trains there.

One of our Iowa Division superintendents and later a high ranking
transportation department officer in Chgo was once heard saying we once ran
as many as 13 meat trains out of Waterloo, but I don't remember running more
than 7 in one day.

The most PHP we ever received from Rath Pkg in Waterloo in one day was 126
cars! Now Rath Pkg doesn't even exist. Some of these cars which were
received in the late afternoon were added to AC-2 (Albert Lea, MN - Chgo)
unless AC-2 was late in which case we ran the Rath PHP ahead, filling the
train out with general merchandise.

Meat trains were the hottest trains on the division. Even passenger trains
took siding for the meat trains. If a train dispatcher delayed a meat
train, even by just giving them just a yellow block, the chief train
dispatcher would send you a torpedo asking why you delayed the meat train.
In those days the speed limit for freight trains between Fort Dodge and
Broadview, IL was 60 MPH and in some places the meat trains were known to
exceed that.

The reason the meat trains were so hot was that we had a 1:00PM cut off for
delivery to the IHB at Broadview, IL, but the IHB would take delivery as
late as 1:30PM. Any later and the IHB could not make connections with
eastern lines such as the Pennsylvania and New York Central. Meat trains
were generally limited to 70 or 80 cars east of Waterloo and after 1953 were
generally powered by 4 diesel units.

Before mechanical refrigerator cars came into being, any necessary icing was
done in Waterloo. It generally took between 1.25" to 1.5" to ice a car
depending how close in the train the icers were together. In hot summer
days, icing took a bit longer. The advent of mechanical refgrs was great in
many ways and much better for train dispatchers trying to figure how long
the train would be in Waterloo.

In steam engine days, the meat trains were operated between Waterloo and
Freeport. IL with one 2800 Central type locomotive, the most powerful on the
IC. This was to provide plenty of power to negotiate the hill from Galena
to Scales Mound, the eastward ruling grade of the Dubuque District.

We had 4 train dispatchers on each 8 hour shift in Waterloo, two of which
handled the Dubuque District (Waterloo to Freeport,IL). One handled the 90
miles Waterloo to Dubuque and the other the 71 miles Dubuque to Freeport.
Those were very busy jobs.

These are just random thoughts. If I think of others that might be
pertinent to your project, I'll pass them along.

Carl M. Storey


Re: We're amateurs!

Ted Culotta <tculotta@...>
 

On Dec 19, 2004, at 6:25 PM, Gary Laakso wrote:

What is their website address?
www.ottofrei.com

Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
100 14th Avenue, San Mateo, CA 94402
info@...
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912


Re: We're amateurs!

Schuyler Larrabee
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Laakso [mailto:glaaks0@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2004 9:25 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] We're amateurs!


What is their website address?


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Culotta" <tculotta@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 3:44 PM
Subject: [STMFC] We're amateurs!



I am modeling a car that has one of the early power hand
brakes where
there is a staff hand brake and at the bottom of the staff
there are
two gears to multiply each turn by the carmen. If you have
the 1932
ARA box car book (shameless plug) this is the type of hand
brake used
on the ARA prototype, C&O, Erie and NKP cars as built. I
thought that
a good way to model these gears would be to use gears from an old
wristwatch (no I don't need to be committed!) I went to a local
jewelry store that does repairs and asked if they had an
old throwaway
wrist watch that I could buy. They gave me an old Omega
ladies model
and said "since you work with small things you should have the
screwdrivers you'll need." I got home and proceeded to
take it apart,
or at least try. My smallest "jewelers" screwdriver was
about 10x too
large. Some of the slots for the head of the screwdriver are
practically invisible. I proceeded to look on the web and found a
jewelers tool dealer here in the Bay Area called Otto Frei.
I ordered
some really small screwdrivers and also perused the web
site. If you
like trains and like tools, this place is a candy store. The
screwdrivers arrived today and I took the watch apart. I
nearly fell
over! The level of precision and miniaturization is staggering and
breathtaking. I now consider myself to be a ham-handed rube after
seeing this work. So, to make a short story long, I think
I have the
parts I need, I found a great new source of tools (check
out their bead
blaster) and learned a little bit about working in miniature.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
100 14th Avenue, San Mateo, CA 94402
info@...
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912





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Re: We're amateurs!

Gary Laakso <glaaks0@...>
 

What is their website address?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Culotta" <tculotta@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 3:44 PM
Subject: [STMFC] We're amateurs!



I am modeling a car that has one of the early power hand brakes where
there is a staff hand brake and at the bottom of the staff there are
two gears to multiply each turn by the carmen. If you have the 1932
ARA box car book (shameless plug) this is the type of hand brake used
on the ARA prototype, C&O, Erie and NKP cars as built. I thought that
a good way to model these gears would be to use gears from an old
wristwatch (no I don't need to be committed!) I went to a local
jewelry store that does repairs and asked if they had an old throwaway
wrist watch that I could buy. They gave me an old Omega ladies model
and said "since you work with small things you should have the
screwdrivers you'll need." I got home and proceeded to take it apart,
or at least try. My smallest "jewelers" screwdriver was about 10x too
large. Some of the slots for the head of the screwdriver are
practically invisible. I proceeded to look on the web and found a
jewelers tool dealer here in the Bay Area called Otto Frei. I ordered
some really small screwdrivers and also perused the web site. If you
like trains and like tools, this place is a candy store. The
screwdrivers arrived today and I took the watch apart. I nearly fell
over! The level of precision and miniaturization is staggering and
breathtaking. I now consider myself to be a ham-handed rube after
seeing this work. So, to make a short story long, I think I have the
parts I need, I found a great new source of tools (check out their bead
blaster) and learned a little bit about working in miniature.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
100 14th Avenue, San Mateo, CA 94402
info@...
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912





Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: decaling Westerfield models

Schuyler Larrabee
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Hendrickson [mailto:rhendrickson@...]

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model . . . .

Brian carlson
Brian . . . . I usually use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with
water first,
I bet Richard left out the word "distilled," as in "distilled water" because
regular tap water has lots of salts and other crud in it which will show up on
your model as water spots. So, to a degree, will the glue on the decal, but
nowhere as much. Distilled water is available at the grocery store and at
stores like CVS. Cheap too.

SGL


Re: decaling Westerfield models

Ted Culotta <tculotta@...>
 

On Dec 19, 2004, at 4:53 PM, Richard Hendrickson wrote:

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model.  What decal
>setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals.  I have
>Solvaset, Champ setting solution, and Microscale,both  Micro sol and
>Micro Set, setting solutions.
>
>Thanks in advance
>Brian carlson
>
Brian, the Rail Graphics decals included in Westerfield kits aren't
especially fragile (unlike older Microscale decals, which tend to
disintegrate if you even look cross-eyed at them), though all decals
need
to be handled carefully, of course.  In my experience, all of the
setting
fluids you identify will work, but you want to be careful with full
strength Champ decal set, as it's the most potent of the lot.  I
usually
use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with water first, which
should get everything settled in place, and then go back with full
strength
Champ used sparingly to get rid of bumps and bubbles.  But I've also
used
Solvaset and Micro-Sol/Micro-Set in the past with good results.
Brian:

In addition to Richard's comments. one thing I do that eliminates any
marring of the decals is to not add setting solution until after the
decals have dried completely. Then, I just touch the edges of the
decals with a brush with the solution. The solution runs under the
decals. Once this application has dried completely, I then go back and
really bathe them in solution. At that point, they are affixed pretty
well except for bubbles that need to be pierced or cut. I use full
strength Champ with this approach and have not had issues.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

Speedwitch Media
100 14th Avenue, San Mateo, CA 94402
info@...
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912


Re: Salvaging drytransfers?

WBa2485811@...
 

In a message dated 12/19/04 12:11:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
pierre.oliver@... writes:

Pierre
Somtimes there is a problem with them not coming off, Just keep burnishing
them as you would a transfer. it should work.

I have used the clear film methos for years for transfers, becuse somtimes
thats all there is, but prefer to use them as a decal because the placement is
easier.

Bill


Re: decaling Westerfield models

Richard Hendrickson
 

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What decal
setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals. I have
Solvaset, Champ setting solution, and Microscale,both Micro sol and
Micro Set, setting solutions.

Thanks in advance
Brian carlson
Brian, the Rail Graphics decals included in Westerfield kits aren't
especially fragile (unlike older Microscale decals, which tend to
disintegrate if you even look cross-eyed at them), though all decals need
to be handled carefully, of course. In my experience, all of the setting
fluids you identify will work, but you want to be careful with full
strength Champ decal set, as it's the most potent of the lot. I usually
use the Champ setting fluid mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with water first, which
should get everything settled in place, and then go back with full strength
Champ used sparingly to get rid of bumps and bubbles. But I've also used
Solvaset and Micro-Sol/Micro-Set in the past with good results.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


decaling Westerfield models

Brian Carlson
 

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What decal
setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals. I have
Solvaset, Champ setting solution, and Microscale,both Micro sol and
Micro Set, setting solutions.

Thanks in advance
Brian carlson


Re: Grabs

Paul Lyons
 

Overland also made a nice brass bracket grab, but they have been discontinued
and no amount of prodding will get them to do a re-run. I think Bill Welsh
and myself have captured what supply was left in hobby shops across the country.
Paul Lyons
Laguna Niguel, CA


Märklin/Trix HP Tank Cars

Richard Hendrickson
 

Ian Clasper kindly sent me a raft of detail shots of these new models, and
I have to say that I am seriously disappointed. Previous models of U.S.
prototypes from M/T have incorporated a variety of errors, in addition to
what Mike Brock aptly describes as their "Alpha Centauri" couplers, but
most of the die work for the injection moldings was very good. By
contrast, the new tank cars look like something AHM would have had produced
in Hong Kong thirty years ago.

Owing to the truck-mounted toy train couplers, the tank car models sit way
too high on their trucks. This, of course, can be corrected. However,
almost all of the details are oversize and very heavy, conspicuously the
platform and railings, brake rigging, uncoupling levers (though at least
they're there), etc. Especially noticeable are the flanges at the end of
the tank where the sheet metal jacket over the insulation was riveted
together; these were very thin on the prototype, and almost have to be a
bit oversize in HO scale, but on the T/M model they're about a scale foot
thick and look awful. The equivalent flanges on Athearn's forty year old
"chemical" tank car model are much better executed (though of course the
Athearn model has numerous other shortcomings).
The T/M models are being made in China and we know the Chinese can do much
better than this, as demonstrated by the models they're making for
Life-Like, so the Germans have to take responsibility.

I have the distinct impression that M/T have become arrogant and complacent
owing to their dominance of the toy train market in Europe and have neither
much understanding of nor much respect for the serious scale modeler market
in North America. It's one thing to sell Kadee quality models for $30+,
quite another to ask those kinds of prices for models that fall far short
of current state of the art. I'm especially aware of the deficiencies of
these M/T tank car models because I'm currently "Beta testing" a couple of
pre-production Intermountain stock car kits which are a notable example of
how far the best manufacturers have come in producing dead-on accurate,
elaborately detailed, and delicately molded models in injection-molded
styrene. All I can say is that I hope the M/T models will not discourage
some other manufacturer from producing high quality models of these
important and interesting prototype cars. If the Germans aren't
embarrassed by this shabby effort, they should be.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: Athearn News

Richard Hendrickson
 

Richard, Our the Athearn Allied FC trucks nicer than the Hallmark last run
brass ones?
Paul Lyons
Liguna Niguel, CA
I haven't seen one of the Hallmark trucks for years, but I'm sure that, in
terms of appearance and prototype fidelity, the Athearn trucks are at least
as good if not better. And unlike the Hallmark (or most other) brass
trucks, they actually roll very well, a significant advantage if you're not
building models for static display.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: Salvaging drytransfers?

pierreoliver2003 <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Bill,
I was considereing following that path. Any suggestions for assuring
that the transfers will stick to the clear decal film?
Pierre Oliver


Hello:

Don't treat them as transfers. Get some blank decal film and try to
transfer
them to that and then apply clear liquid decal film.

If this works use them as a decal.

Bill



Re: 1942-42 color Yard photos (Jack Delano)

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Al Westerfield reports-

My information on the cars is that after the take-over of URT by GAT, cars when repainted were done in GAT colors, orange sides and black roof and ends. Certainly the MILW leased cars in the 1940s were those colors.
This seems to be correct.

John Greedy, the ranking expert on the Milwaukee reefers, monitors this list when he can. Perhaps he will chime in.

Denny



--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, California


Salvaging drytransfers?

pierreoliver2003 <pierre.oliver@...>
 

I've run into a problem with some dry transfers.
They've been sealed in their plastic envelope since they were made.
Yet when I went to apply them to the car side, the decals wouldn't
transfer onto the carside. I've had this problem with dry transfers
that were unsealed , thus allowed to dry out. But never with sealed
dry transfers. Since it seems that these particular dry transfers are
no longer available, does anyone have suggestions for salvaging these
decals.
Thanks,
Pierre Oliver


Re: FS: Moody's Indistrials, 1962

Tim Gilbert <tgilbert@...>
 

A search of http://www.bookfinder.com yields for Moody's Industrial yield two alternatives: - one, a 1965 Manual for $125.00, and the other, a 1958 Manual for $150.00.

Tim Gilbert

Dave Nelson wrote:

Hard to find and the price shows that. Don't know seller.

Dave Nelson

-----Original Message-----

1. Moody's Industrial Manual by John Sherman Porter Moody's Investors
Service, 1962 Hard Cover. Very Good Clean Solid Copy. First Edition.
The price of the book is US$ 200.00
Please reference the seller's book # 006768 when ordering.

The seller is Nancy's Books
PO BOX 287 , Washington, NJ, U.S.A., 07882.
<mailto:nancysbooks@...>
Terms of sale: Terms: I accept personal or business checks or money orders
in U.S. dollars, or drawn on a U.S. bank. Please make check/money order
payable to: Nancy Blahnik. New Jersey residents please add 6% state sales
tax. There are two ways to process your order electronically. You may use a
credit card through ABE COMmerc, by selecting the book, and putting in your
credit card info (See bottom left of this page). I also accept payments
through PayPal. I cannot process a credit card transaction any other way.
Shipping: Orders shipped United States Postal Service unless otherwise
requested. Orders within the United States: $4.00 (Book Rate + Insurance)
for 1st book + $1.00 for each additional book. Add $1.50 to each book for
USPS Priority mail. International orders: shipped surface mail unless
otherwise requested. $6.00 for first book + 2.00 for each additional book.
Allow 2-12 weeks for out-of-country shipping. International airmail also
available with shipping charges adjusted. For large orders, postage,
insurance & handling will be billed at cost. All shipments within the United
States are insured to protect the buyer against shipping loss or damage. In
the event of damage or loss, we will provide the buyer with the insurance
receipt so that the buyer may file an insurance claim with USPS. If
insurance is needed for purchases shipped outside of America, please inquire
as to the post office costs. Ordering Info: Payment is due within 7 calendar
days of our 'order confirmation email'. Each of our books has a unique
seller's book id #. Please put this item # on your order. Books are
returnable for a full refund within 10 days if not as described, not
including postage. They must be returned in original condition.

158801 - 158820 of 195468