Date   

Re: Central of Georgia 1937 1-1/2 door 40' boxcar

Richard Hendrickson
 

Rich Yoder asks:

DId any other RR had the same car 1-1/2 door car?
No. Those cars were unique to the C of Ga.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: ATSF & other car id help

Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...>
 

Rob Kirkham asked:
"The two cars I would like to identify to the extent its possible are the
ATSF car (second car back of the engine), and hopefully some guesses
regarding the box car 5 back, just ahead of the Dominion/fowler car. "

Scott Pitzer responded:
"For the one ahead of the Dominion car, I see...ILLINOIS CENTRAL on the left
above the reporting marks and MAINLINE OF MID-AMERICA on the right side."

It's extremely difficult to tell whether or not this car is a pre-war or
post-war car as not enough of the end is visible and the door details are
non-existent. The most likely possibilities are:

- Pre-war car: IC Modified 1937 AAR boxcar, 10' 4" IH, both square corner
and round corner variations. See table at
http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/mod37aarpdfmain.html
for specific information. To model this car, use the Intermountain Modified
1937 AAR boxcar kit, plus Sunshine mini-kit MK.10B for those cars with
square corner ends.

- Post-war car: Most likely IC 27000-27499, 10' 6" IH, 6 ft Youngstown
doors, Universal hand brake, Morton running boards, ASF A-3 Ride Control
trucks.


Ben Hom


Re: ATSF & other car id help

George Hollwedel <georgeloop1338@...>
 

certainly looks like a Bx-57 class PS-1, looks lok a five digit road number starting wit a 3 and looks to be a 10' 6" tall car.

Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...> wrote:
I've loaded up another poor quality scan. Look for the name "id Santa Fe 1952" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFPH/files/. The scan shows a train moving east (near Eisenhower junction) on the CPR mainline in November 1952. The two cars I would like to identify to the extent its possible are the ATSF car (second car back of the engine), and hopefully some guesses regarding the box car 5 back, just ahead of the Dominion/fowler car.

Regarding the ATSF car, I am assuming this is a post war car?

I'd appreciate the car number series if that is possible with so little information. And if it can be had, modelling information.

Thanks in advance

Rob Kirkham







Yahoo! Groups Links










George Hollwedel
Prototype N Scale Models
georgeloop@...
310 Loma Verde Street
Buda, TX 78610-9785
512-796-6883

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Search presents - Jib Jab's 'Second Term'


Re: Central of Georgia 1937 1-1/2 door 40' boxcar

Rich Yoder
 

DId any other RR had the same car 1-1/2 door car?
Rich

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett Whelan" <brettwhelan@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Central of Georgia 1937 1-1/2 door 40' boxcar


Yes Pieter it is an excellent article, it inspired me
to build one too. Gene uses CofG decals by Greg Komar
which I believe are available in HO as well.
Brett Whelan
Australia.
--- pieter_roos <pieter.roos@...> wrote:

If someone needs guidance on doing the kitbash,
there is an excellent article available on-line by list member Gene
Deimling on building this car in O Scale using the Intermountain model.
Go to http://www.
oscalemag.com , to the "free downloads" section and
download issue #3.
Pieter
-- In STMFC@..., Ted Culotta
<tculotta@s...> wrote:
On Jan 25, 2005, at 5:13 PM, Tony Higgins wrote:

Greetings,
Does someone make a door and a half conversion
kit for these cars? I
think I saw a post years ago about a parts set
to convert a Red
Caboose 40' AAR boxcar. I searched the archive
and saw no refereence
to them.
Tony:
It was originally a Sunshine mini kit for
attendees of Naperville many,
many years ago. Riverdale Station was selling
them after that, but I
believe that they ran out long ago. It's actually
an easy kitbash.
You need to narrow a left door and add door tracks
using strip styrene.
The CofGa set from Microscale will cover the
lettering (better than
the decals in the Sunshine parts set did!)
Regards,
Ted Culotta
Speedwitch Media
100 14th Avenue, San Mateo, CA 94402
info@s...
www.speedwitch.com
(650) 787-1912
__________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Box Car Populations/Frt Train Consists

Rich Ramik <rjramik@...>
 

I would like to inject this thought. All of this discussion is fascinating
and indeed educational. This information, correct me if I'm wrong, is being
analyzed to understand fleet population, movement, etc. The one thing that
I have not seen discussed is the effect of the sales departments would have,
could have, or should have had on the population of boxcar fleets. This
could be one of the deltas (or we used to call the WTFs) that has skewed
some of data being examined, i.e., SP boxcars over Sherman Hill or the L&N
boxcars heading west.



It has been my experience in business that the sales folks could and did
have a large impact on whether or not "I reached my forecasted revenue
stream." Even for the stodgy railroad industry a good salesman or sales
office could have an impact on the population of boxcars within a given
geographic region. Finishing this line of thought, this would have had an
impact on the general availability of boxcars particularly for online usage.



This idea (active regional sales offices) may account for the results and
should possibly be considered in the equation.



For What It's Worth,

Rich Ramik



_____

From: Eric Hiser [mailto:ehiser@...]
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 12:47 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Box Car Populations/Frt Train Consists



Although I hesitate to venture in where others are (wisely) choosing not to
go, it would seem to me that both Brock/Groff and the Gilbert/Nelson
hypotheses have some very useful aspects.

1) Gilbert/Nelson is useful in thinking about the total population of
cars that "should" traverse the total railroad being modeled and is thus a
better than random way to address the proper mix of foreign power on the
road;

2) Brock/Groff is useful in thinking about the particular consist
anticipated for a specific train or category of trains (e.g., peddler
freight, bridge through, etc.).

The corollary would seem to be that while individual trains should be
selected using the Brock/Groff hypotheses (e.g., where did it come
from/where is it going, what do the wheel reports tell us?), the cars used
to fill the trains should be selected from the Gilbert/Nelson "pool" and, if
enough of the trains on the road were modeled, the Brock/Groff and
Gilbert/Nelson hypotheses should tend to converge.

That said, thanks to those of you on the list that suggested some resources
for the 1880s-1930s period. Very helpful!

Eric Hiser
Phoenix, AZ


(No subject)

Greg Martin
 

Sorry folks. The first post was sent by accident with out me signing the
post and without some other necessary information as follows...

I received from a friend the following...

Rod Loder has organized an SP modelers meet in Salem Oregon for May 13 and
14 2005.
One day of modeler's meet,including clinics, model contest, slide
presentations, vendors swap meet etc. and the second day is a all-day excursion behind
SD9s on the rugged Tillamook branch. For more info and registration forms go
to... www.espeeinoregon.com
And snipped from their website...
Southern Pacific Prototype Meet
May 13th, 9 am - 5 PM Oregon State Fairgrounds, Salem, Oregon
Featuring modeling, clinics, slide shows, manufacturers, publishers and
former Southern Pacific employees. Also, you may wish to rent a table and display
to show your favorite Espee topics, plans, layout or modeling projects.
Bring your Espee models for the Popular Vote Contest with prizes from various
vendors!
Registration by April 1st - $12.50. With table, $20.00. Extra tables $10.00.
Registration after April 1st - $15.00. With table, $25.00. Extra tables
$10.00.
***The website also details the trip to Tillamook and I will likely be taking
that as well. I do have an interest in SP so I will be there and hope to
see more of you all there as well... Please spread the news and again hope to
see you all there...
Greg Martin


ATSF & other car id help

Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...>
 

Thanks Scott

Rob Kirkham


ATSF & other car id help

Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...>
 

Thanks Richard.

Rob Kirkham


SP Modeling Meet in Salem, OR

Greg Martin
 

Rod Loder has organized an SP modelers meet in Salem Oregon for May 13 and
14 2005.
One day of modeler's meet,including clinics, model contest, slide
presentations, vendors
swap meet etc. and the second day is a all-day excursion behind SD9s on the
rugged
Tillamook branch. For more info and registration forms go to...
www.espeeinoregon.com


Re: ATSF & other car id help

Richard Hendrickson
 

Rob Kirkham writes:

I've loaded up another poor quality scan. Look for the name "id Santa Fe
1952" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFPH/files/. The scan shows a
train moving east (near Eisenhower junction) on the CPR mainline in
November 1952. The two cars I would like to identify to the extent its
possible are the ATSF car (second car back of the engine), and hopefully
some guesses regarding the box car 5 back, just ahead of the
Dominion/fowler car.

Regarding the ATSF car, I am assuming this is a post war car?
No, the door is a prewar Youngstown corrugated door, and the side sill
configuration identifies the car as Bx-34 class with Duryea cushion
underframe.

I'd appreciate the car number series if that is possible with so little
information. And if it can be had, modelling information.
139500-141300, built by Pullman-Standard in 1940. 1248 cars were delivered
with ASF self-aligning spring-plankless trucks, the other 538 with National
B-1s. There's no way to decipher a car number from the dots that compose
the image Rob posted, but the car has obviously been recently repainted in
the post-1947 lettering style with the "Ship and Travel..." slogan
replacing the orginal system map on the right side. No way to tell which
of the four "name train" slogans was on the opposite side. The bodies of
the Bx-34s were 1941 AAR revised standard with 10'4" IH, so the cars can be
modeled with an Intermountain box car kit by replacing the AAR underframe
with a Duryea underframe.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: ATSF & other car id help

Scott Pitzer
 

For the one ahead of the Dominion car, I see: IC!

I see ILLINOIS CENTRAL on the left above the reporting marks and
MAINLINE OF MID-AMERICA on the right side.


Re: 1932 Box Car Ends

Richard Hendrickson
 

From Phil Buchwald:

Also, I was told that the DW ends are meant to replace the ends on
the old Athearn steel side reefers, which are models of the PFE
reefers. Were the prototype cars based on the 1932 design?
Both statements are essentially true. Regarding the relationship of the
PFE R-40-10 class to the 1932 AAR box car, see Thompson, et. al. p. 161.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


ATSF & other car id help

Rob Kirkham <rdkirkham@...>
 

I've loaded up another poor quality scan. Look for the name "id Santa Fe 1952" at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFPH/files/. The scan shows a train moving east (near Eisenhower junction) on the CPR mainline in November 1952. The two cars I would like to identify to the extent its possible are the ATSF car (second car back of the engine), and hopefully some guesses regarding the box car 5 back, just ahead of the Dominion/fowler car.

Regarding the ATSF car, I am assuming this is a post war car?

I'd appreciate the car number series if that is possible with so little information. And if it can be had, modelling information.

Thanks in advance

Rob Kirkham


1932 Box Car Ends

buchwaldfam <duff@...>
 

Group,

I just put a dial caliper on a Details West (DW-1000/DW-1001)
Dreadnaught end and compared it to a Branchline IDE. Interestingly,
the scale width difference between the two is 5.79" The inside width
difference between the 1932 ARA and the later AAR cars was 5". In
HO, 0.79" scales out to 0.009" Now, my hair is getting a little
thin, but even so, when I set the calipers to 0.009", I can't slide
a hair through the blades. It looks like these are close enough for
a kit bash.
The height is a little short (about 2.88"), but it is easier to
add a little than to split an end down the middle and take out 5
scale inches.
Has anyone else tried these ends for a 1932 ARA car? They come in
both square and W corner post.
Also, I was told that the DW ends are meant to replace the ends on
the old Athearn steel side reefers, which are models of the PFE
reefers. Were the prototype cars based on the 1932 design?

Regards,
Phil Buchwald


Re: SOU PS-2 Covered Hoppers

mike turner <yardcoolieyahoo@...>
 

Yes. Kadee is building a good reputation building accurate models and giving correct information. At least with me.

If Kadee is not going to do the narrow spaced hatches (and they did not say either way), does anyone know a source of Kadee roofs and/or hatches? I scanned their parts lists and did not see a candiate. Cutting and transplanting a few hatches should occupy a few hours. :)

Mike Turner
Simpsonville, SC

GCRDS@... wrote:

In a message dated 2/16/2005 1:21:23 PM Mountain Standard Time, yardcoolieyahoo@... writes:
Mr. Clarke,

Wow. I did not expect a reply from Kadee on this list. Now the hunt begins for a "good" photo or several. Thank you.

---> Especially one that basically said "Neither one of our products is correct for what you want." That is commendable for a manufacturer to do. Thanks Sam!

Take Care!

Brian R. Termunde
West Jordan, Utah
"Ship and Travel the Grand Canyon Line!"
Grand Canyon Railway
Utah District


black iron wire

ed_mines
 

I've been using black iron wire 14 mils in diameter (30 gage?)to
replace grab irons.

I bought a spool of it for >$3 from McMaster Carr.

It's a little too large in diameter but it's black as midnight. It
looks particularly good as grab irons on reefers. I don't know how
it paints.

I've tried without success to find similar wire in smaller diameter.

This wire is very soft, comparable to the horrible green florists'
wire found in older kits.

Ed


Re: double stirrup steps and Blacken-It

Richard Hendrickson
 

Dean Payne writes:

...since I replaced the supplied ladders with wire grabs, I am
wondering if you have experience with using Blacken-It to turn the
wire grabs black. I would hope this would prevent the common problem
of paint wearing/chipping off and showing a glint of brass on a black
model. I have heard of etching the brass by soaking it in vinegar,
and blasting it with abrasive. The cheapest abrasive blaster I know
about is the Paasche Air Eraser at $40, which might be more than I
want to spend right now. Of course, you can use it to blast truck
side frames as well, etc, so you get more versatility. Vinegar is
even cheaper than Blacken-it, so I am trying that as a start. I
could use Blacken-it over the vinegar "etching", of course.
Dean Payne
Dean, I routinely blacken brass wire parts with Blacken-It and have never
found it necessary to chemically etch the brass beforehand; Blacken-It
itself functions as a chemical etch. If the parts are sandblasted first,
so much the better. In fact, paint hangs on to sandblasted surfaces like
grim death and will not come off with normal handling even if you don't use
a chemical blackener. Bite the bullet, buy yourself an abrasive gun, and
cobble up a spray booth from second-hand materials or cheap particle board
to keep the abrasive powder contained. Once you've used one, you'll wonder
how you ever got along without it. (I'm assuming you already have an air
brush and air compressor, since it's almost impossible to do serious
modeling without one.)

I routinely sandblast all models before painting. The myth that you can't
sandblast styrene or resin is just that - a myth. Most paints don't adhere
any better to shiny plastic than to shiny metal; light sandblasting with
fine abrasive provides a "toothy" finish for excellent paint adherance
without damaging details.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520


Re: double stirrup steps and Blacken-It

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I have vinegar-etched metal parts prior to using Blacken-it. You get a really
nice rich black finish, at least on brass. You have to clearcoat this RIGHT
AWAY, because it will rub off on your fingers. Once that's done, it is fairly
tough, but it will eventually rub off on the wear points, if you
handle/wrap/transport your models. The only way I know of to truly prevent that
is to have them plated.

The vinegar-etching is pretty essential. Otherwise you won't get an even
finish.

You can strengthen the etching by dissolving salt into the vinegar until you get
a saturated solution (solid salt remains in the bottom of the bottle) to get an
acid. I forget, but I think this is hydrochloric acid, but not all that strong.
Wear gloves, though, because your hangnails will announce themselves quite
stridently. And mark the bottle, you don't want that vinegar in your salad!

SGL

-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Payne [mailto:deanpayne@...]
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 1:44 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] double stirrup steps and Blacken-It



I am finishing up my kitbash of a 1920's Newburgh and South
Shore GS gondola based on a Red Caboose kit (with plate
ends). I am in need of long, double run stirrup steps (sill
steps). Tichy has 3045, which appear to be too short,
perhaps, but Des Plaines has DPH2001, which might be better.
Are these the only sources of non-offset double sill steps?
Are the Des Plaines steps any different from the Tichy steps,
or are they dimensionally similar?
Also, since I replaced the supplied ladders with wire grabs,
I am wondering if you have experience with using Blacken-It
to turn the wire grabs black. I would hope this would
prevent the common problem of paint wearing/chipping off and
showing a glint of brass on a black model. I have heard of
etching the brass by soaking it in vinegar, and blasting it
with abrasive. The cheapest abrasive blaster I know about is
the Paasche Air Eraser at $40, which might be more than I
want to spend right now. Of course, you can use it to blast
truck side frames as well, etc, so you get more versatility.
Vinegar is even cheaper than Blacken-it, so I am trying that
as a start. I could use Blacken-it over the vinegar
"etching", of course.
Dean Payne






------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
--------------------~--> Give the gift of life to a sick child.
Support St. Jude Children's Research Hospital's 'Thanks & Giving.'
http://us.click.yahoo.com/5iY7fA/6WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/9MtolB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------
------~->


Yahoo! Groups Links







double stirrup steps and Blacken-It

Dean Payne <deanpayne@...>
 

I am finishing up my kitbash of a 1920's Newburgh and South Shore GS
gondola based on a Red Caboose kit (with plate ends). I am in need
of long, double run stirrup steps (sill steps). Tichy has 3045,
which appear to be too short, perhaps, but Des Plaines has DPH2001,
which might be better. Are these the only sources of non-offset
double sill steps? Are the Des Plaines steps any different from the
Tichy steps, or are they dimensionally similar?
Also, since I replaced the supplied ladders with wire grabs, I am
wondering if you have experience with using Blacken-It to turn the
wire grabs black. I would hope this would prevent the common problem
of paint wearing/chipping off and showing a glint of brass on a black
model. I have heard of etching the brass by soaking it in vinegar,
and blasting it with abrasive. The cheapest abrasive blaster I know
about is the Paasche Air Eraser at $40, which might be more than I
want to spend right now. Of course, you can use it to blast truck
side frames as well, etc, so you get more versatility. Vinegar is
even cheaper than Blacken-it, so I am trying that as a start. I
could use Blacken-it over the vinegar "etching", of course.
Dean Payne


Re: FS: 1933 Moody's

armprem
 

I have a 1926 Moodys that I will let go for an even hundred.Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Nelson" <muskoka@...>
To: "STMFC" <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 12:54 PM
Subject: [STMFC] FS: 1933 Moody's



New today. Prise is higher than average but the year might make for more
interesting reading. Don't know seller.
Dave Nelson

--------------------------

MOODY'S MANUAL OF INVESTMENTS. American and Foreign. Rail Road
Securities.
NY: Moody's Investors Service, 1933 No Jacket. 1st Edition. 2148 pages. Of
37 maps listed, 7 maps are missing. Moody's Railroad Manuals were produced
primarily for the actual investor in stocks and bonds. Ex-Library with
very
few markings -- Library paste down on front endpaper, small library stamp
on
title page, and a few library markings on page following title page,
library
markings on spine. Covers show some wear at edges, corners bumped, spine
at
top torn down about 1". Very good, original green cloth. (084) (Keywords:
RAILROADS, INVESTMENTS, FINANCIAL. BUSINESS 084 INVENTORY) The price of
the
book is US$ 150.00 Please reference the seller's book # 002612 when
ordering.

The seller is Colorado Pioneer Books

4755 So. Broadway , Englewood, CO, U.S.A., 80110.

<mailto:larsonbks@... <mailto:larsonbks@...> > Ph: 303-789-0379
Terms of sale: Net U S Dollars







Yahoo! Groups Links