In a message dated 09/16/2002 3:42:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
shawn.beckert@... writes:

"John D. Rockefeller's Secret Weapon",

Can you expound on this? Is it a book, article? Thanks!

Jerry Michels

I was mistaken regarding the total number of freight cars in 1947
used to calculate the % of 50 ft. box cars. The actual number is
around 3/4 million, not 1.1 million. This brings the % of 50 ft. box
cars to between 7 an 8%.


--- In STMFC@y..., "ed_mines" <ed_mines@y...> wrote:

The chart for 49 ft. plus box cars in my July '47 equipment

register

gives a sum total of slightly over 58,000 cars. There is no exact
total box car figure (although I could get one by adding up all of
the box car totals for class one railroads)but using 1.1 million

box

cars I calculate 5 to 6% 50 ft. box cars in July 1947. That 1.1
million came from the 1941 CBC.

I have totally missed my estimated shipping time by weeks. I offer no excuses (well maybe- if anyone knows Terry, they might understand). I am hoping to get them to be packaged and sent soon. Will contact list when i have a better estimate. Thanks for your patience,

Andy Carlson

FWIW,

The Dec. 2000 issue of Mainline Modeler had an article "X26 USRA
boxcar rebuild using a Tichy kit" by Mont Switzer. As I recall, he
used the roof from a Accurail SS car grafted onto the Tichy kit.

Pieter

--- In STMFC@y..., "Kert Peterson" <kertp@s...> wrote:

Ted,

Thanks for the information. I will see what I can do with the Tichy

kit to

make some other car. Is the Westerfield kit correct for 1951?

Cheers,
Kert Peterson
Fircrest, WA
kertp@s...


-----------------------Original Message-------------------

Subject: Re: USRA SS Box Car

Kert Peterson wrote:

I'm building a Tichy 40' USRA SS Box car into, I hope, a Pennsy

X26

circa 1951. I need some help with a few parts to make sure I

get this

correct for 1951. Were there any of the X26 that still had KC

brakes

and hand rungs (instead of ladders) in 1951? If there were,

what

number series were they in? What trucks would be correct, and

would

they be friction or roller bearing? Any other tips that I am

missing

will be appreciated.

Kert:

The Tichy model is not going to be a good starting point (unless

you

love pain). By 1951, the cars that still had wood sheathing would

have

had new Hutchins Dry Lading roofs (applied in the late 1930's).

The

steel doors in the Tichy kit would be correct for most of these

cars.

However, a large number of the cars were rebuilt with steel sides

and

depending upon when they were rebuilt, various fixtures. The

Tichy kit

is for an as built car and is not for your era (although there amy

havre

been a few unmodified as built cars floating around among the many
thousands of modified versions). My suggestion, if you want the

wood

sided car, is to get the Westerfield kit with the Hutchins roof.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

______________________________________________________________________
__

Ted,

Thanks for the information. I will see what I can do with the Tichy kit to
make some other car. Is the Westerfield kit correct for 1951?

Cheers,
Kert Peterson
Fircrest, WA
kertp@...

Have you ever seen / discovered a list of the "branch houses" for
Armour (or any other meat packer, for that matter)?

The only places I've seen them is Sanborn maps, city directories, and
shippers directories. IMO, way too much work to get any comprehensive list.

Dave Nelson

I learned once that the Tichy USRA Hoppers suffer from being to long.
Was that fixed on the build-up cars or was that only the point for
original cars not the panel side cars.

Nope, both the original and the panel-side cars are too long. I doubt that
changed on the Intermountain RTRs, as it would require new tooling for most
of the car to correct it.

David Thompson

I learned once that the Tichy USRA Hoppers suffer from being to long.
Was that fixed on the build-up cars or was that only the point for original
cars not the panel side cars.

Thorsten

Hi all...need some help in decaling the Carworks brass air dump
cars...per the review in the Warbonnet, the cars are a perfect match
for two AT&SF air dump cars identified as classes GA-36 and GA-41.
Childer's AT&SF Work Equipment Cars has early pictures of class GA-
36 on page 178, but the photo is unclear (to read lettering) and the
photo is a very early one (I am modeling late 1940's). The table
with air dump car characteristis in Childer's book does not provide
any additional insight. The review in the Warbonnet was also by
Childer's andthe Carworks cars are painted/lettered in the article
but they are painted/lettered for a much earlier time frame and the
lettering is not legible in the photos in the issue. I need to know
info. to decal both cars for CAPY, LD LMT, LT WT, etc. and general
location of said features....any help would be very much
appreciated. Best regards, Atsftim

Schuyler grumbles:

's'matter. Tony, it's not in YOUR interest range?
More's the pity . . .
Cabooses ARE freight cars, even you've said so.

Full agreement on latter point, and I haven't said otherwise. But this
one kit for one railroad has had a LOT of discussion among a couple of
people. That was my only point.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 http://www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroads and on Western history

Kert Peterson wrote:

I'm building a Tichy 40' USRA SS Box car into, I hope, a Pennsy X26
circa 1951. I need some help with a few parts to make sure I get this
correct for 1951. Were there any of the X26 that still had KC brakes
and hand rungs (instead of ladders) in 1951? If there were, what
number series were they in? What trucks would be correct, and would
they be friction or roller bearing? Any other tips that I am missing
will be appreciated.

Kert:

The Tichy model is not going to be a good starting point (unless you
love pain). By 1951, the cars that still had wood sheathing would have
had new Hutchins Dry Lading roofs (applied in the late 1930's). The
steel doors in the Tichy kit would be correct for most of these cars.
However, a large number of the cars were rebuilt with steel sides and
depending upon when they were rebuilt, various fixtures. The Tichy kit
is for an as built car and is not for your era (although there amy havre
been a few unmodified as built cars floating around among the many
thousands of modified versions). My suggestion, if you want the wood
sided car, is to get the Westerfield kit with the Hutchins roof.

Regards,
Ted Culotta

I'm building a Tichy 40' USRA SS Box car into, I hope, a Pennsy X26 circa 1951. I need some help with a few parts to make sure I get this correct for 1951. Were there any of the X26 that still had KC brakes and hand rungs (instead of ladders) in 1951? If there were, what number series were they in? What trucks would be correct, and would they be friction or roller bearing? Any other tips that I am missing will be appreciated.

Thanks.

Cheers,
Kert Peterson
Fircrest, WA
kertp@...

Tony,

PMFJI IANAL BUT FWIW AFAIK INTxxx IAIYH.

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Sterling, Massachusetts

Were the NYC's panel side hoppers gone by 1951-52? If not, how
about 1955? I seem to recall that they were rebuilt in the late
1940's to flat panel cars with outside vertical posts.

Chet French
Dixon, IL

From: <thompson@...>

--though of course INTLO.

's'matter. Tony, it's not in YOUR interest range?

More's the pity . . .

Cabooses ARE freight cars, even you've said so.

SGL

Responding to the original point of this thread: I'd surmise that the
reason that paint would peel off roofwal . . . .er . . . running board would
have to do with the fact that this position is about as tough a location for
a piece of painted wood as there could be. Exposed to blistering heat,
painted a dark color so sure to absorb more heat than might otherwise be the
case, alternately wet and dry, exposed to cold, expand and contract,
penetrated with fasteners which create depressions just >designed< to hold
water and channel it into the unpainted holes they are in . . . well, gee,
no wonder the paint peels, and PDQ, too, I bet. Now, add to that the
traffic (as heavy or light as it may be) of trainmen on those boards, with
boots scraping paint to make cracks, at least, or peel off loose paint at
worst, it's just going to come of more and faster . . .

On older cars that had probably not been maintained much in recent times, I
have seen (and stood upon) wood RB's that were innocent of any paint at all.

SGL

Just how long are we going to pursue this topic on the list? I would
think a case could be made for the very few interested to take their
discussions off-list--though of course INTLO.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 http://www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroads and on Western history

The photo of the M&StL Caboose in the M&StL files is part of the
BayWindow.doc found under files. Note that this photo shows and
incorrectly painted caboose. It should have a black roof, grabs,
ladders, underframe, steps, and railings.

Doug Harding
Iowa Central Railroad
www.cal-net.net/~dharding/ <http://www.cal-net.net/~dharding/>

I'd like to make a public apology for jumping in with some
less-than-temperate wording before I did any real thinking about
what I was saying, and also a personal apology to Ben Hom for
less than deserving respect.
I don't know, maybe I'm frustrated about not finding
conclusive information on a lot of NYC matters, but that's still no
excuse for jumping on others and talking without thinking.
I've been thinking about this all day, and I feel better now.
Thanks for your time and now back to steam-era freight cars.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff English Troy, New York
Proto:64 Classic Era Railroad Modeling
englij@...

| R U T L A N D R A I L R O A D |
Route of the Whippet
---------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, how about this for a no-brainer. Take some Champ decal stripes
(really WIDE ones) and just decal on the patch panels. Then paint
them over. The Champ stripes are just about the right thickness.


At 04:26 PM 9/15/2002, you wrote:

I have been following this thread and there is a way that I have tried
that worked fairly well, but depends upon weathering to make it visually
pleasing. I used a scalpel (and scalpel blade) to scribe a line where
the original side sheathing meets the patch panel. This created a
groove where weathering washes collected, creating a good visual
demarcation to simulate the line.

Ted Culotta

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Sterling, Massachusetts