Dave Nelson wrote: I don't know the merger dates, but I have a nice photo of a fleet of PBMX (Peet Brothers Mfg. Co.) being loaded on the dock at New Orleans, alongside an ocean-going ship.

Gene - I saw Bruce and his M-K-T caboose yesterday! He had a retirement party (retired from UP on Saturday) and we discussed the Sloan yellow color. His caboose color looks correct in sunlight

Dave, Very interesting. The Colgate-Palmolive-Peet factory in Kansas City also had a Philadelphia Quartz plant nearby. The Sanborn map of the CPP plant shows

Since Dave mentions Philadelphia Quartz tank cars.......... I have one remaining 4 pack of 8,000 gallon P2k PQ tank car kits. $8.50/car, plus postage. Contact me off-list if interested at

~ WWI, a company named Peets Bro's made soap. IICR, they were bought or merged w/ the Palmolive Company and IIRC sometime around WWII merged w/ Colgate. One of the Peet operations was in Berkeley

I am not sure I agree Mike in terms of it being a flaw in the kit or even its engineering. One of the issues in having models that are designed to move or operate vs. static models is that fine detail

Looking at those gon's... most are not in too bad a shape. Same for the hoppers. Maybe we modelers shouldn't make our rolling stock so beat up with all the dings, bulges, bangs and excessive rust.

Denny Anspach, as always thoughtful on the topic, wrote: Canopy cement is NOT the same as MicroClear. I use the canopy cement extensively for joints of DISSIMILAR materials, for which it is

Bill Welch says: On F&C's beautiful SP/T&NO 50-ft DD SS boxcar, the door stops looked very vulnerable to me so I pinned them at their location.> There's a reason why they look vulnerable. A

Of course, it is hard to know the answer inasmuch as the stresses on one type of joint that may well bear up well with ACC may bear little relationship to the stresses of another type of joint, which

I saw this technique in a publication someplace: put plenty of paste flux on the parts to be soldered and hold it all together with clothes pins or similar non heat absorbing clamp. heat the

Douglas Harding wrote: Now that was a good interesting film to watch ! :-) Alan -- ____________________________________________________________ /

Dear Pierre: Although I have had mixed success mixing epoxys in the correct 50/50 portions (go figure) the time when I have been successful and the joint has actually hardened, this has worked well.

Pierre, This may sound rather primitive, I have had good luck with good old Goo. If you can get a syringe, like an insulin & put it in the syringe, you can control the amount real well. Goo is also

I have a three-part set of reprints that I gleaned digitally from a Fruit Growers Express file from one of the archives I have visited. The articles first appeared in something called "Railway

Tim, SHPX 25008 was one of 10 cars in series 25001-25010 built 4-40 that were originally painted black and plainly lettered for SHIPPERS CAR LINE CORP and without any lessee stencils. This is an

Ed, I have a shot of SHPX 25008, lettered for Colgate Palmolive. I like this car because the tack board is mounted in the open space in the side, attached on one side to the center vertical rib.

For hidden areas or large stuff, I've used epoxy -- it's strong, impervious to paint, temperature safe. But for highly visible or small bonds (esp butt joints), solder is the answer. The only

Yes I know solder is a bit of a no brainer, but for one project I have very thick brass sides and have to add many very delicate details. I'm afraid of overheating the base or melting away the

Pierre Oliver wrote: Um, solder? Works great. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510)