Already dullcoated . . . *sigh* Yes, it can be done, but it ain’t easy, and it can be a bit scary. As I mentioned before I use a single edge razor blade, as it’s sharper than most anything

Thank you to everyone who has responded to my questions. I have a couple of steps that I can now try to get rid of some of that silvering. The car pictured was painted with Scalecoat and I did not

Hi Schuyler, The AC&Y #3179 appears to be a type of Mather car I am not famiiar with but I agree, it's a car with character and kind of neat. Think it was an older type attemted to look it up in

This car was offered by Sunshine. I have one running on the railroad…someplace. Bill Darnaby

Hello, Don - and other interested folks, Attached is a spreadsheet exported from my database. The criterion for selection to export was "inset side sill" and/or "with brackets". The count is 275

Wasn’t that a wood kit, Don? Northeastern? Schuyler

Actually Monsanto Chemical had a car of two like the Eastman car that operated out of their plant in Revere. Mass., just north of Boston. Years ago someone made a foil wrapper for a kit of these

Overspray, in my experience, seldom conceals the blushing. Fix that first with the poking and slicing with the sharp edge. I use a single edge razor blade. Sharper than any exacto knife.

Tim’s additions to Pierre’s basic recommendations are what I do as well. IMHO it’s essential to float the decal in a puddle on the car side, and get it to settle down to the surface by wicking

Todd I find that I can pick up tiny decals with a fine, wet paintbrush, and transfer them to the car with that - they slide smoothy off the wet brush

I agree Schuyler, and look at the neat ptches on the door in which a sheet of what was probably galvanized sheet metal was nailed over the deteriorated wood. Talk about a rudimentary repair job!! My

Float the decal with micro set and draw the fluid out with a paper towel on the edge. If you poke the decal with a knife it will show up when it drys. Consider the type of paint. It works better on

Tim's advice is good - thanks, Tim for adding more details and tips. I keep finding that, with today's ever-thinner decals, I cannot reliably slide the decal off in the water and pick it up with

Clark Ex-D&RGW series 61200 to 61499 -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

That USRE rehab box car is an ex-New Haven PS-1 built in 1947 with 7 foot doors -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

Here's a Soph Marty photo of another ACY car with some character ; )) The steel yellow cars came with red or black lettering had to do with ownership I believe? CW Propst

Yep - what Pierre said! And ALSO - use fresh distilled water - tepid warm water seems to work better make sure the decal slides off the paper

Hi Chuck, I recently built a 3D printed Utah Coal Route gondola, and had the same problem with half the decal pieces I put on the model. The 3D printing of the model leaves small striations in the

No Tim. I mean 1260 is a nice enough normal freight car, but 3179 has CHARACTER. Kind of like Clint Eastwood with a grizzled beard and all squinty-eyed. By comparison, 1260’s a Sunday school

Looks like Pierre has the right answer. Fenton -- Fenton Wells 250 Frye Rd Pinehurst NC 28374 910-420-8106 srrfan1401@...