Bob, thanks for sharing this. The slightly ornate style of the lettering suggests 1920s or 30s but the map could have been published sometime afterwards if was a revised version of an older map

Tim O'Connor wrote: Yes, I did. They're white metal, rather less dense than lead and far less effective. And tell me again how much force you can apply leaning on that pipe, versus a

I was considering these as a load for a 40' gon with wood floor (Sunshine Pere Marquette): http://www.choochenterprises.com/html/7246_heavy_cable_spools.html I think they would look better in a gon

Thanks for the reference to the PRR cars Elden. That is helpful. As I scrutinized the photos in Ed Kaminski's Tank Cars AC&F Co, 1865-1955, I thought I could see one distinguishing feature between

Roger Parry asked: "Who is McMaster/Carr?" http://www.mcmaster.com/ Enter "lead" in the "Find products" block to see what they have to offer. Ben Hom

Bob Webber...apparently considering a career in comedy, notes: I don't think so...although I'll admit that Baghdad Bob is about as elusive as my website...or 4025.<g>. Mike Brock

More like ten or twelve, outpacing your production lately. SGL

Jason Sanford writes: There's a good reason why Google can't find it...somewhat like the elusive #4025 Big Boy. Neither exist. There IS, however, a website for Prototype

Who is McMaster/Carr ???

I agree with the addition of the brake piping. All that "stuff" looks good under there and is better than the somewhat barren underframes of the otherwise grand Accurail SS and DS box cars. I also

Schuyler don't sweat it. When you get around to building your one kit a year, I'll assemble your Accurail gondola for you, including the wire brake rods.

What? You didn't get any of Terry Wegmann's cast metal GS doors? ;-) Instead of pounding the lead, how would rolling a steel ball or pipe over it work? Rolling seems more precise than

Tim O'Connor: Dennis, please put the brake piping assembly in the kit. If Timbo doesn't like them, he can throw them away. SGL

Nice plug for our cars, Andy! What Andy didn't mention is that they come with renumbering decals done Accurail style, which means on a color background which EXACTLY matches the cars. So well,

Shawn Beckert wrote, in part: Shawn: Here is your assignment: By Sunday night, take out one of those kits and assemble the underframe. No excuses. Like Nike says: Just DO IT! SGL

Tim O. said: Tim, as Bill Darnaby described, the lead is quite malleable and is easily deformed to the size and shape you want. I conducted an entertaining proof of same in making lead blocks to

I agree to that one. I don't even like them on the much vaulted Kadee cars. It has been one of my biggest gripes about RTRs only with no kits available - the necessity of removing that crap from

FWIW I installed lead sheet between the underframe and floor in all of the Sunshine gons I built this past summer. The sheet lead started out at .040" thick and I was able to pound it out to around

Below is a scan of the downtown portion. http://www.drgw.org/data/passenger/Birm.jpg There are no ads, or anything else that may provide date info - aside from the railroads, street car lines, bus

Dennis Storzek wrote Tim replies... have cast pipes from AB valve to reservoir, etc I can take it or leave it... I really like the Accurail box car underframes -- clean -- which makes them very