Date   

Re: CNW 50' oddball

Bruce Smith
 

Clark,


Suggest to your friend to use bare metal foil or a similar product for the side patch panels. We PRR modelers have a lot of experience with those 😉


Regards,

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL




From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 5:12 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] CNW 50' oddball
 
You may remember few weeks ago a friend wanted to do a model of a box car assigned to one of the cement plants in Mason City ia. He found a P2K kit, I had a couple Des Plaines Viking roofs. A couple weeks later here’s the model. He’s not happy with it. He used to thick of styrene for the lower side patches which be placed too high on the sides. I gave him some styrene strip to hopefully fill the gap. We’ll see? He also used rivets from Micro Mark he got from another friend. They are way too thick leaving a noticeable ‘seam’ behind them. We don’t learn unless we build. He said he’s up to try again with with another kit....
CW Propst


CNW 50' oddball

Clark Propst
 

You may remember few weeks ago a friend wanted to do a model of a box car assigned to one of the cement plants in Mason City ia. He found a P2K kit, I had a couple Des Plaines Viking roofs. A couple weeks later here’s the model. He’s not happy with it. He used to thick of styrene for the lower side patches which be placed too high on the sides. I gave him some styrene strip to hopefully fill the gap. We’ll see? He also used rivets from Micro Mark he got from another friend. They are way too thick leaving a noticeable ‘seam’ behind them. We don’t learn unless we build. He said he’s up to try again with with another kit....
CW Propst


Re: Combining Resin & Styrene

Ray Breyer
 

If you're working with a lot of printed parts and want to cure them, it's probably a good idea to build yourself a simple light box with a UV bulb in it. McMaster-Carr (and others) sell the bulbs in assorted wavelengths.

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL


On Wednesday, June 12, 2019, 3:50:52 PM CDT, Dennis Storzek <destorzek@...> wrote:


On Wed, Jun 12, 2019 at 08:25 AM, Jack Burgess wrote:

So, if a casting is sticky, putting it out in the sun will solve the problem. The white dots which can appear a month or two after painting is a different problem. Shapeways has not identified the source of the problem AFAIK…

 

I'm of the opinion that it's all the same problem... the stickiness is un-reacted resin on the surface of the part, while the white spots are un-reacted resin migrating from deeper in the part. I'm not entirely sure just how deeply UV will penetrate below the surface of the part, but additional UV exposure of all parts can't hurt.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Combining Resin & Styrene

Dennis Storzek
 

On Wed, Jun 12, 2019 at 08:25 AM, Jack Burgess wrote:

So, if a casting is sticky, putting it out in the sun will solve the problem. The white dots which can appear a month or two after painting is a different problem. Shapeways has not identified the source of the problem AFAIK…

 

I'm of the opinion that it's all the same problem... the stickiness is un-reacted resin on the surface of the part, while the white spots are un-reacted resin migrating from deeper in the part. I'm not entirely sure just how deeply UV will penetrate below the surface of the part, but additional UV exposure of all parts can't hurt.

Dennis Storzek


Re: FW: [EarlyRail] Digital Archives -

Bill Welch
 
Edited

Here is link for L&N gon: https://exploreuk.uky.edu/catalog/?q=gondola

There are several photos. This is actually one of one thousand USRA copies purchased by the L&N. The clues are the cast side frame trucks instead of Andrews and their lack of diagonal braces on the end panels. Easily modeled with the very fines InterMountain kit. Attached is a photo of models of both original and copy. Copies were built by Chickasaw

Bill Welch


Re: FW: [EarlyRail] Digital Archives -

Bill Welch
 

Why not provide a link Charley?

Bill Welch


Re: FW: [EarlyRail] Digital Archives -

John
 

Yes, many nice photos.  Here’s a very clear one of a wood gondola.  But what kind of trucks are those under it?


John Bopp


FW: [EarlyRail] Digital Archives -

Charlie Vlk
 

All-

From the EarlyRail group….this site has many very nice photos of early steam era freight cars.   Search “Gondola” for extensive coverage of what looks like an L&N USRA composite gondola.  Mostly L&N, SOU, “Queen & Crescent” AGS, etc. roads as might be expected.

Charlie Vlk

 

From: EarlyRail@groups.io <EarlyRail@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tony Long
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2019 10:51 PM
To: EarlyRail@groups.io
Subject: [EarlyRail] Digital Archives -

 

Check out this site for railroad photos – cars, structures, locomotives, bridges, etc..

 

https://exploreuk.uky.edu/catalog/xt7sf7664q86_6145_1?q=refrigerator&per_page=20

 

Does anyone have color renderings of these FGE cars?

 

 

 


Re: Combing Resin & Styrene

lrkdbn
 

Those parts look really nice. Are they available for sale?
LR King


Re: Combining Resin & Styrene

Bill Welch
 
Edited

On Wed, Jun 12, 2019 at 11:25 AM, Jack Burgess wrote:

They are talking about a different issue. Sometimes you will get resin prints from Shapeways which feel sticky. That is from insufficient curing which is done with a light source equivalent to sunlight. So, if a casting is sticky, putting it out in the sun will solve the problem. The white dots which can appear a month or two after painting is a different problem. Shapeways has not identified the source of the problem AFAIK…

 Jack

The Military Modelers were of the mind that the Sun Curing helped the flexibility of the parts, Don't know about the sticky problem, mine were not sticky. Attached is a comparison photo of the Ford Drive Sprocket. Part on the left was in direct sun for two hours, part on the right has not been so cured. Again these are 1/35 scale

Bill Welch

 


Re: Combining Resin & Styrene

Jack Burgess
 

They are talking about a different issue. Sometimes you will get resin prints from Shapeways which feel sticky. That is from insufficient curing which is done with a light source equivalent to sunlight. So, if a casting is sticky, putting it out in the sun will solve the problem. The white dots which can appear a month or two after painting is a different problem. Shapeways has not identified the source of the problem AFAIK…

 

Jack

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Bill Welch
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 3:39 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Combining Resin & Styrene

 

Thinking about what Jack said, although my parts are resin I do have some 1/35 scale M4A3 Sherman parts printed by Shapeways. It was suggested by modelers on a Sherman Modeling Page on Facebook that I cure the parts in the sun, so I did half of them to see if I could see any difference  and sure enough the sun cured parts were less opaque or somewhat cloudier. Perhaps what is happening with Jack;s painted parts is lack of UV curing. Just a thought.

Bill Welch


Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: [RealSTMFC] Coil steel loads

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

I agree with Tim; I also have cut up aluminum and steel cans of many kinds, slit one side, and overlapped the material until I got the diameter I wanted. New aluminum cans are especially easy to work with. Aluminum foil is another option. Take a long piece, cut into strips on a paper cutter, and coil until satisfied. ChartPack tape, styrene strip and metal strip all make good banding.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 9:12 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: [RealSTMFC] Coil steel loads


I save all kinds of weird, miscellaneous household things - one thing I've saved a few of is the plastic "wheels" that come with 3M Magic Tape rolls.
These have an
inner and outer cylinder - just like steel coils! Two of them side by side might be the right size for a large scale coil model. :-)

Tim O'Connor



On 6/12/2019 9:01 AM, William Canelos via Groups.Io wrote:
Hi All,

Any idea how to make coil steel loads for open gondolas. I model in
large scale so no commercial products are available in my scale.

Thanks, Bill

--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: Coil steel loads

Tim O'Connor
 

I save all kinds of weird, miscellaneous household things - one thing I've saved
a few of is the plastic "wheels" that come with 3M Magic Tape rolls. These have an
inner and outer cylinder - just like steel coils! Two of them side by side might be
the right size for a large scale coil model. :-)

Tim O'Connor

On 6/12/2019 9:01 AM, William Canelos via Groups.Io wrote:
Hi All,

Any idea how to make coil steel loads for open gondolas. I model in large scale so no commercial products are available in my scale.

Thanks, Bill
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Coil steel loads

William Canelos
 

Hi All,  

Any idea how to make coil steel loads for open gondolas.  I model in large scale so no commercial products are available in my scale.

Thanks, Bill


Re: Combining Resin & Styrene

Scott
 

Those parts were probably printed using liquid resin which uses UV light to activate and harden resin.  Setting it outside cures it all the way through.  Some people who use those printers a lot use a UV light made to cure painted finger nails.  The printer uses an LCD screen that projects a UV image from the bottom of the tank of the slice it is developing.

Scott McDonald


Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Combing Resin & Styrene

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Wow, great project, Bill! Can't wait to see the finished car!

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Bill Welch
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2019 5:32 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Combing Resin & Styrene

Dr, Dave Campbell sent me a pair of Vulcan ends. These are resin copies of a 3D print and viewing under a good light w/my Optivisor I see no evidence these were printed. They will be combined with a Hutchins roof ripped from a Accurail body, Accurail underframe w/fishbelly centersill, Evergreen car siding and modified Tichy Youngstown door to model Piedmont & Northern #1101.

Bill Welch


Re: Combing Resin & Styrene

al.kresse <water.kresse@...>
 

You're alive.  Thanks for the background material.  Al Kresse

On June 11, 2019 at 9:32 PM "Fritz Milhaupt via Groups.Io" <fmilhaupt@...> wrote:

I'm very interested in these ends-- I've wanted to model a number of the Pere Marquette's 85000-series boxcars, but have put that off for lack of ends. These cars had an interesting history, having been built in 1922 as auto boxcars, then having their double doors replaced with single six-foot doors between 1937 and 1943. Some were outfitted for auto parts service in the mid-1940s and renumbered into the 54000- and 55000-series. All were off the roster by 1957.

A number were sold to the Piedmont & Northern and others to the Manistee & North Eastern. I've offered decals to letter the M&NE boxcars for eighteen years (see http://www.fritzmilhaupt.com/decals), but pretty much everyone I've sold them to settles for just using them on a USRA double-sheathed car with the wrong ends.

- Fritz Milhaupt
Pere Marquette Historical Society, Inc.


Re: Combining Resin & Styrene

Bill Welch
 

Thinking about what Jack said, although my parts are resin I do have some 1/35 scale M4A3 Sherman parts printed by Shapeways. It was suggested by modelers on a Sherman Modeling Page on Facebook that I cure the parts in the sun, so I did half of them to see if I could see any difference  and sure enough the sun cured parts were less opaque or somewhat cloudier. Perhaps what is happening with Jack;s painted parts is lack of UV curing. Just a thought.

Bill Welch


Re: Combing Resin & Styrene

Fritz Milhaupt
 

I'm very interested in these ends-- I've wanted to model a number of the Pere Marquette's 85000-series boxcars, but have put that off for lack of ends. These cars had an interesting history, having been built in 1922 as auto boxcars, then having their double doors replaced with single six-foot doors between 1937 and 1943. Some were outfitted for auto parts service in the mid-1940s and renumbered into the 54000- and 55000-series. All were off the roster by 1957.

A number were sold to the Piedmont & Northern and others to the Manistee & North Eastern. I've offered decals to letter the M&NE boxcars for eighteen years (see http://www.fritzmilhaupt.com/decals), but pretty much everyone I've sold them to settles for just using them on a USRA double-sheathed car with the wrong ends.

- Fritz Milhaupt
Pere Marquette Historical Society, Inc.


Re: Occuremce of D&RGW boxes

Allen Rueter
 

The interchance book for GN/WP @ Bieber 1947-Oct show only 39 drgw  XM 
5 61200 
9 66000
25 67500
vs 100s of GS from drgw/ucr

Allen Rueter



On Monday, June 10, 2019, 09:50, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


In 1950 D&RGW rostered 4,399 box cars, and the NP rostered 15,259 box cars.
Nationally in 1950 there were over 718,000 box cars. So the D&RGW represented
6 tenths of 1 percent of the total fleet - about one car in 163.

Assuming truly 'random' distribution, the probably of zero D&RGW box cars in a
train of 100 box cars is .54 or 54%. The same probability calculation for NP box cars
yields .116 or just under 12%. Or looked at another way, 7 out of 8 of the 100 car
trains would have at least 1 NP box car, while less than half of such trains would
have even a single D&RGW box car.

Tim O'Connor



On 6/10/2019 6:26 AM, Garth Groff wrote:
Dave,

Let's look at how many boxcars the D&RGW owned (excluding narrow gauge). My 1958 ORER says they owned 3,047 XM boxcars (the majority being 40', 10' 4" IH steel cars with 12-panel sides), 29 XML loader-equipped boxcars; 28 XAR and XMR automobile cars, 8 XAP auto parts boxcars, and finally 29 XMI insulated boxcars (the famous "Cookie Box" boxcars in assigned service between Salt Lake City and Denver). Excluding the Cookie Boxes, that's only 3,112 interchange boxcars, not a huge number but likely adequate for their traffic.

The line's most common loadings were coal, and some other mineral traffic, much of which was to other on-line destinations (and coal in small lots was known to have been sometimes shipped in D&RGW boxcars), so the bulk of their fleet was GS gondolas. Their two largest outbound customers were CF&I and USS Geneva which are unlikely to have shipped much in boxcars. Also consider that the line functioned as a bridge line between the WP and the CB&Q, and D&RGW boxcars would more commonly be seen on those two friendly roads than most others in the U.S.

It is no surprise to me that D&RGW boxcars are be fairly uncommon in photos.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

On 6/9/19 7:59 PM, David Soderblom wrote:
This follows on from the discussion of sill steps being bent inwards.

I couldn’t help noticing the D&RGW box.  By rights it should have been a common occurrence, but it wasn’t.  You just don't see them that often in these old photos.  Compare to Northern Pacific, which, as so many have noted, are seen in nearly every SteamEra train.  My own guess, without looking at the fleet numbers: NP boxes went everywhere because they delivered northwest lumber to a growing nation.  D&RGW originating traffic was much more limited.

I’d love to hear more.



David Soderblom

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

21421 - 21440 of 186227