Date   

Re: Attaching parts to brass models.

Tim O'Connor
 

I have used epoxy to attach parts to brass with excellent results - including a trip through the
150 degree oven to "bake" the Scalecoat paint. I would never trust CA for this application. For
tiny parts like NBW I would try either 'canopy' white glue, or diluted contact cement - assuming
you can make it invisible.

Tim O'Connor

On 4/11/2019 9:02 AM, Bruce Smith wrote:
Jared,

I don’t foresee any major problems. We all wash and grit blast CA applied details all the time. As Paul noted, make sure the surfaces are clean.  I would consider grit blasting the brass prior to using CA to apply details just to give the brass a bit more “tooth” to hold with the CA but metal to meat and plastic to metal are two of the best surfaces to get good CA bonds.

When you’re done with the details, just wash in dish soap (Dawn) and water with a soft toothbrush. Gentle scrubbing should be fine. Then, when dry, I would grit blast, wash again, and paint.
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: Bucyrus decals?

James E Kubanick
 

Tichy might have something you can use in their set for their wreck crane kit.

Jim Kubanick
Morgantown WV

On Wednesday, April 10, 2019, 8:06:54 PM EDT, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


I recently purchased to HO-Scale Bucyrus cranes from  Reynauld's Euro Imports, Inc and was wondering if anyone knew of a source for Bucyrus decals?  I want to load the cranes on a flat car (freight car content), and need to get them lettered.

Thanks,

Jerry Michels


Re: Bucyrus decals?

Jerry Michels
 

Thanks Tim.  Curious.  I tried a Google search and did not find this site.  Oh well.  Sorry to take up time, but I thought someone might have used Bucyrus decals before.

Jerry Michels


Re: Attaching parts to brass models.

Bruce Smith
 

Jared,

I don’t foresee any major problems. We all wash and grit blast CA applied details all the time. As Paul noted, make sure the surfaces are clean.  I would consider grit blasting the brass prior to using CA to apply details just to give the brass a bit more “tooth” to hold with the CA but metal to meat and plastic to metal are two of the best surfaces to get good CA bonds. 

When you’re done with the details, just wash in dish soap (Dawn) and water with a soft toothbrush. Gentle scrubbing should be fine. Then, when dry, I would grit blast, wash again, and paint.

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."




On Apr 10, 2019, at 10:01 PM, Jared Harper <harperandbrown@...> wrote:

I have been detailing a Balboa Santa Fe gas electroc to resemble M.177.  
So far I have been soldering everything but I have gotten to the point of wanting to attach nut-bolt-washer castings to the radiators.  I am thinking CA but when it comes time to paint the model I will want to clean it.  How do I clean it without detaching the n-b-w's.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: SAL AF-4 and AF-3

O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks Jerry, the decals are from Speedwitch and are beautiful. 


On Apr 9, 2019, at 9:03 AM, Jerry Breon <jbreon@...> wrote:

Those are some nice looking cars Fenton. I'm a long time PRR modeler, but since relocating to NC those y'all road cars are becoming more and more attractive. Have always like the Seaboard graphics.

Jerry Breon
Mooresville, NC

SAL AF-4 and AF-3 
From: O Fenton Wells
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2019 14:53:36 EDT 

Here are two cars just finished.  The AF-4 was first and I didn't do a very good job on the Kadee roofwalk, the AF-3 was second and is much better almost excellent.  I'm learning. The AF-3 was a RC 40 DD , W corner car with Speedwitch doors and decals.  And yes I learned how to apply those decals better as well, thanks to members on this list. 
The AF-4 was greatly aided by information from Pat Wider, thanks Pat.  It's basically an early welded PS-1 with modified roof and ends.  Southwest Scale doors modified to be DD's and Speedwitch decals.  Still learning how to mount the Kadee brake steps so they are horizontal and not crooked.  Practice, practice,. practice....and hopefully I'll get better.
The AF-5 is next and we are making new doors and ends in resin for that.
Fenton



Re: Attaching parts to brass models.

Paul Woods <paul@...>
 

Hi Jared

I would suggest cleaning the model prior to adding the NBW castings, then handle as little as possible while adding the castings and finish up by cleaning the areas with NBW castings using a very soft brush such as an artists brush and soapy water.  From my experience with CA and epoxy glues in the marine industry, both of them are very good so long as the surfaces being joined are very clean, so it's a good idea to wash the model before applying the glue in any case.

I am assuming that the NBW's are plastic and not brass - I would never glue brass details on; I would sweat them on using a low-temp solder that contains silver (so that it won't build up and hide detail) otherwise you might as well save the cost of the brass castings and use plastic.

Regards
Paul Woods

Whangarei, NZ


Re: Grain Loading Limit Stencils

jerryglow2
 

I created a PDF of floors an interior walls to print on light cardstock and glue inside a car. Guess I should add some of these marks near the door opening. BTW feel free to use the file.


Bucyrus decals

chessiesd35 <RDGSD45@...>
 

  Microscale has a set of MOW decals that has Bucyrus lettering in black or white. I don't remember the stock number off hand.


Re: Attaching parts to brass models.

Todd Sullivan
 

Hi Jared,

I suspect it depends on how you will clean the model before painting.  For example, I've found that soaking models in water for an hour or more will cause CA bonds to detach, but I suspect that epoxy will survive most cleanings aside from using lacquer thinner or a similar VOC.  I use an epoxy found in hardware stores that has a 10-15 minute set time, and it is pretty robust.  I'm sure others will chime in with additional ideas ....

Todd Sullivan.


Attaching parts to brass models.

Jared Harper
 

I have been detailing a Balboa Santa Fe gas electroc to resemble M.177.  
So far I have been soldering everything but I have gotten to the point of wanting to attach nut-bolt-washer castings to the radiators.  I am thinking CA but when it comes time to paint the model I will want to clean it.  How do I clean it without detaching the n-b-w's.

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


Re: Bucyrus decals?

Tim O'Connor
 

On 4/10/2019 7:52 PM, Jerry Michels wrote:
I recently purchased to HO-Scale Bucyrus cranes from  Reynauld's Euro Imports, Inc and was wondering if anyone knew of a source for Bucyrus decals?  I want to load the cranes on a flat car (freight car content), and need to get them lettered.

Thanks,

Jerry Michels
_._,_._,_

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Bucyrus decals?

Jerry Michels
 

I recently purchased to HO-Scale Bucyrus cranes from  Reynauld's Euro Imports, Inc and was wondering if anyone knew of a source for Bucyrus decals?  I want to load the cranes on a flat car (freight car content), and need to get them lettered.

Thanks,

Jerry Michels


Re: Walthers HO 1944 AAR modified boxcar

Benjamin Hom
 

Mark Mathu wrote:
"What features make Walthers' HO 1944 AAR boxcar an AAR "modified" boxcar?  The 10'-6" inside height?"

Here is a typical model:
https://www.walthers.com/40-aar-1944-boxcar-ready-to-run-spokane-portland-seattle-11124 

You're confusing the terms.  "Modified" is used to indicate the 10 ft 6 in inside height versions of the 1937 AAR boxcar design as the first iteration of the design was 10 ft inside height.  It's not used to describe any variation of the1944 AAR boxcar design.

Walthers uses it correctly in the sales e-mail they sent out today.


Ben Hom


Walthers HO 1944 AAR modified boxcar

Mark Mathu
 

What features make Walthers' HO 1944 AAR boxcar an AAR "modified" boxcar?  The 10'-6" inside height?

Here is a typical model:
https://www.walthers.com/40-aar-1944-boxcar-ready-to-run-spokane-portland-seattle-11124
____
Mark Mathu


Re: SAL AF-4 and AF-3

Jerry Breon
 

Those are some nice looking cars Fenton. I'm a long time PRR modeler, but since relocating to NC those y'all road cars are becoming more and more attractive. Have always like the Seaboard graphics.

Jerry Breon
Mooresville, NC

SAL AF-4 and AF-3 
From: O Fenton Wells
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2019 14:53:36 EDT 

Here are two cars just finished.  The AF-4 was first and I didn't do a very good job on the Kadee roofwalk, the AF-3 was second and is much better almost excellent.  I'm learning. The AF-3 was a RC 40 DD , W corner car with Speedwitch doors and decals.  And yes I learned how to apply those decals better as well, thanks to members on this list. 
The AF-4 was greatly aided by information from Pat Wider, thanks Pat.  It's basically an early welded PS-1 with modified roof and ends.  Southwest Scale doors modified to be DD's and Speedwitch decals.  Still learning how to mount the Kadee brake steps so they are horizontal and not crooked.  Practice, practice,. practice....and hopefully I'll get better.
The AF-5 is next and we are making new doors and ends in resin for that.
Fenton



Test77

Mikebrock
 

Test77: Ignore.

 

Mike Brock

STMFC Owner


Re: Volume 32 of the Nickel Plate Road Modeler's Notebook is now available!

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 


Hi Ray and List Members,
 
Thanks Ray for the link, excellent publication.
 
Also, it is always nice to meet someone else who models the same year I do - 1929!
 
Claus Schlund
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2019 1:48 PM
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Volume 32 of the Nickel Plate Road Modeler's Notebook is now available!

The latest issue of the Nickel Plate Road Modeler’s Notebook is here!

 

http://nkphts.org/modelersnotebook/2019/April2019mn.pdf

 

This FREE online magazine is chock full of sizzling NKP modeling goodness, so download your copy today!

 

Volume 32 of the Notebook features a trip down memory lane while chasing a NKP 759 fantrip in 1970, a visit to a multi-level LE&W District layout, modeling the 17000-series 36-foot auto boxcars, and much more.

 

Ray Breyer

Elgin, IL

Editor, Nickel Plate Road Modeler’s Notebook

Contributing Editor, Nickel Plate Road Magazine

Modeling the NKP through Central Illinois in 1929


Re: Photo Study: Southern Boxcar 166561

Eric Hansmann
 

FYI, I used a couple of these images in a weathering blog post last year.

http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/2018/09/14/weathering-ideas/

 

 

In addition to the Southern SU boxcar, the DL&W XA that Bob posted links for was also featured.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro. TN

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, April 7, 2019 7:21 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Photo Study: Southern Boxcar 166561

 

Several good photos of this car:

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-08-10-18/X4936.jpg

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-08-10-18/X4937.jpg

http://lists.railfan.net/erielackphoto.cgi?erielack-08-10-18/X4938.jpg

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Photo Study: Southern Boxcar 166561

O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks Bob, good photos
Fenton

--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


For Sale HO

Brian Carlson
 

I have a few Items for sale. There are only 4 items so they are in the body of this email. RESPOND OFF LIST AT THE EMAIL BELOW IF INTERESTED (Sorry, for the caps, I don’t want to end up in moderate jail, the food isn’t too good, and it’s heading toward summer in florida.)

 

Sunshine 18.5 Great Northern 1937 AAR 1940-50’s side facing goat $40

Sunshine 52.3 Northern Pacific 10000-13999 Boxcars 50-60’s Main street decals. $40

Broadway Limited 6K chlorine tank car (broken up a 4 pack)

Hooker HOKX 642 Tacoma Wa $33

Hooker HOKX 640 Tacoma Wa $33

 

I kept the Niagara Falls cars. This is the new release from the end of March

 

Shipping - USPS Priority Mail added to the above.

 

Prrk41361 AT yahoo DOT com

Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga NY

 

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