Date   

Photos From The AC&Y Historical Society

Bob Chaparro
 

These are fairly good photos that appeared in the the A.C.&Y. H.S. News, the official publication of the Akron, Canton & Youngstown R.R. Historical Society.

Scroll down a few pages in each issue.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

NATX 3180 Acid Tank Car

Page 21

https://acyhs.org/newsletter/ACYHS_News_Fall_Winter_2015.pdf

AC&Y 1411 Flat Car With Conveyor Belt Load

Page 6

https://acyhs.org/newsletter/ACYHS_NEWS_SS_2016.pdf


Re: T&P RC box

Benjamin Hom
 

Tony Pawley asked:
"Forgive this post (please) if this has been covered previously. On a short trip to the BC Royal Museum in October, afterwards I swung by the lhs in Victoria and was fortunate enough to pick up a T&P 40 foot box car kit from RC for less than ten bucks. That is Canadian dollars btw, about seven and change in USD, I'll take it!

Searching the 'net I have found some close examples of TP boxes, but looks like the doors are wrong and depending on car the side sills need to be adapted. Would someone please mind going in-depth on this or kindly point to message history if it has been beat-to-death already? I don't want to post any links just yet since it may be against group rules but the TPrailway.org site has an OK side photos of 121107 and X4556. Ends seem close on the RC model for x4556 and overall the latter seems to be closer to the RC model."

Recommend Ed Hawkins' 1937 AAR boxcar summary as a starting point:


Ben Hom



Re: T&P RC box

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Tony,

I am assuming you are talking about a 10' IH, 40' boxcar with W-corner ends that RC is so well known for? If so, go here and you will find that the T&P had four lots of these cars: http://www.steamerafreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarmain.html .

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

On 12/12/18 10:14 AM, espee4441 wrote:
Forgive this post (please) if this has been covered previously. On a short trip to the BC Royal Museum in October, afterwards I swung by the lhs in Victoria and was fortunate enough to pick up a T&P 40 foot box car kit from RC for less than ten bucks. That is Canadian dollars btw, about seven and change in USD, I'll take it!

Searching the 'net I have found some close examples of TP boxes, but looks like the doors are wrong and depending on car the side sills need to be adapted. Would someone please mind going in-depth on this or kindly point to message history if it has been beat-to-death already? I don't want to post any links just yet since it may be against group rules but the TPrailway.org site has an OK side photos of 121107 and X4556. Ends seem close on the RC model for x4556 and overall the latter seems to be closer to the RC model. 

Thanks for your guys time.

Tony Pawley


Re: GN Reefer Ablaze

Jim Betz
 


  ... does any one have any pictures or drawings of same ... or have modeled same ... or seen a
model with them on the underside of a reefer?

  Wouldn't such shields have been required/desirable on all wooden under frame cars
and not just reefers?
                                                                                    - Jim B.


T&P RC box

espee4441
 

Forgive this post (please) if this has been covered previously. On a short trip to the BC Royal Museum in October, afterwards I swung by the lhs in Victoria and was fortunate enough to pick up a T&P 40 foot box car kit from RC for less than ten bucks. That is Canadian dollars btw, about seven and change in USD, I'll take it!

Searching the 'net I have found some close examples of TP boxes, but looks like the doors are wrong and depending on car the side sills need to be adapted. Would someone please mind going in-depth on this or kindly point to message history if it has been beat-to-death already? I don't want to post any links just yet since it may be against group rules but the TPrailway.org site has an OK side photos of 121107 and X4556. Ends seem close on the RC model for x4556 and overall the latter seems to be closer to the RC model. 

Thanks for your guys time.

Tony Pawley


Re: PRR G24 scrap car questions

Bruce Smith
 

Johannes,

There are many things wrong with the paint and lettering beyond just the inappropriate “NEW” stencil. This model is, at best, a strip and repaint job. The paint color is completely wrong. The lettering stencil is incorrect, the car is missing a Lt Wt stencil, the ball-keystone is better described as a “blob-keystone”, and the built stencil is completely missing, as is any sign of a repack stencil. 

OTOH,  the car is a steel rebuild (All of PRR’s G24s were rebuilt with steel sides prior to WWII) and, as you note, has AB brakes, which are both appropriate to this modification of the G24 with racks for scrap tin service. 

While there was no ban on interchange service that I know of, the relatively small number of these modified G24 cars spent all or almost all of their time on-line on the PRR.

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith            

Auburn, AL

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."




On Dec 12, 2018, at 4:58 AM, vapeurchapelon <j.markwart@...> wrote:

Hello friends,

I consider buying this PRR G24 scrap gondola:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Precision-Scale-Company-16014-1-HO-BRASS-PRR-G-24-Gondola-Painted-EX-Box/332941133908?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649

But of course I have some questions.
1. How many of these cars were in existence?
2. What's the appropriate time frame? Model has AB brakes, but a NEW date 1919 which obviously is very wrong.
3. Were these cars used in interchange service, or were they restricted to PRR homerails, or even to some specific regions/ companies?

Many thanks and best regards

Johannes
Modeling the early post-war years up to about 1953


Re: PRR G24 scrap car questions

Eric Hansmann
 

Johannes,

Those cars were assigned to the PRR by the USRA in 1919. 750 cars were assigned to the Pennsy and two subsidiary roads. 50 went to the Grand Rapids & Indiana, 200 went to the Long Island, and 500 were for the PRR. There's more info on Rob's PRR Page.

http://prr.railfan.net/freight/classpage.html?class=G24


534 cars were listed in the 1953 ORER. These would have had steel replacement sides and AB brake systems installed.


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN


On December 12, 2018 at 3:58 AM vapeurchapelon <j.markwart@...> wrote:

Hello friends,

I consider buying this PRR G24 scrap gondola:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Precision-Scale-Company-16014-1-HO-BRASS-PRR-G-24-Gondola-Painted-EX-Box/332941133908?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649

But of course I have some questions.
1. How many of these cars were in existence?
2. What's the appropriate time frame? Model has AB brakes, but a NEW date 1919 which obviously is very wrong.
3. Were these cars used in interchange service, or were they restricted to PRR homerails, or even to some specific regions/ companies?

Many thanks and best regards

Johannes
Modeling the early post-war years up to about 1953




Re: LNE 7001 - 7200

Bill Welch
 

I have to admit this is a very attractive car to me with its fishbelly U/F—unusual for a Howe truss boxcar; Gussets for the Cross Bearers; radial roof; and composite ends. I am going to look through the F&C website to see if he has the ends somewhere in his line. Fairly certain he has the roof and sides. Underframe is easy. Ends would not be difficult to scratch.

Bill Welch


PRR G24 scrap car questions

vapeurchapelon
 

Hello friends,

I consider buying this PRR G24 scrap gondola:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Precision-Scale-Company-16014-1-HO-BRASS-PRR-G-24-Gondola-Painted-EX-Box/332941133908?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649

But of course I have some questions.
1. How many of these cars were in existence?
2. What's the appropriate time frame? Model has AB brakes, but a NEW date 1919 which obviously is very wrong.
3. Were these cars used in interchange service, or were they restricted to PRR homerails, or even to some specific regions/ companies?

Many thanks and best regards

Johannes
Modeling the early post-war years up to about 1953


Re: Wheel painting

Kemal Mumcu
 

...I forgot to add that deal with the treads at the very end.

I also forgot to sign my name. ;)

Colin Meikle


Re: Wheel painting

Kemal Mumcu
 

Good ideas here.

I usually spray paint the truck frames and the wheelsets all together assembled with an oxide red primer. After every pass I roll the trucks a bit so everything gets hit. (The journals AND the axle needles won't get painted). Then I store them away till they get mated with a project.

 Later I use the same washes for the freight car as for the primed trucks. Paint to suit the car.


GN Reefer Ablaze

Bob Chaparro
 

A Joe McMillan photo:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/joemcmillan118/13500282954/in/album-72157667327794880/

Caption: "A GN Western Fruit Express reefer meets a firery end on a Santa Fe siding at Topock, Arizona, May 28, 1972. A westbound train had set out the car a few minutes prior."

This was not the result of a hotbox, as Joe explains: "No, the fire was not caused by a hot box. These wooden cars had metal spark shields attached to the underside of the body above the brake shoes. Occasionally, these shields would fall off and sparks from the brakes would lodge in the wooden under frame and cause a fire. This car had traveled w/b down a long grade and its brakes had been repeatedly applied."

Was there a requirement for spark shields on cars with wood floors?

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Tank car volume change

Richard Townsend
 

Thanks, Garth. The two examples you provided (for the same car) work out to about 2% +/- volume loss. 

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


-----Original Message-----
From: Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
To: main <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Dec 7, 2018 10:03 am
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Tank car volume change

Richard,

An interesting question, and certainly and obscure area of study.

So let me give you a case to chew on. The WP owned 60 AC&F high-walkway oil tanks of 10,000 gallon capacity, with a 40 gallon expansion dome in series 1020-1080: https://www.wplives.com/diagrams/freight/1930/TC1021-1080.php .

At some point in the early 1950s, 1058 was rebuilt as a tender 8004 for pile driver/crane 90 (curiously, a diesel machine as a crane, but equipped with a steam generator for pile driving duties). Unfortunately I can't send you to link for 8004, as it is not on the WPHS site, but I do have a diagram in a book from which I can quote, and my photo is attached.

As 8004, the car had an oil tank with a capacity of 2798 gallons, and a water tank holding 7016 gallons. This totals 9,814 gallons for a loss of 186 gallons. According to the diagram, the tanks each had a curved end of their own similar to the visible ends hidden under the shell, rather than a single straight bulkhead. The original domes were replaced with others 36" in diameter. No dome capacity is given, but I don't think this matters since it was expansion space, not tank capacity.

Have fun wrestling with the data.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

On 12/7/18 2:01 AM, Richard Townsend via Groups.Io wrote:
If a 10K single compartment gallon tank car were converted to two compartments, how much volume would it lose? Is ten percent a reasonable estimate?

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


_._,_._,_



HO RTR For Sale

David
 

The reefer and tank are sold.

David Thompson


Re: AMB wheel masks

Matt Goodman
 

After reading through this thread, I’m glad to see that there is consensus on one approach… :)

Having tried about all of them, I can happily say that I apparently am doing it right!

Matt Goodman
Columbus Ohio US

On Dec 10, 2018, at 7:05 PM, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@comcast.net> wrote:

The modeler's friend - a thousand uses - very cheap, reusable, and long lasting


On 12/10/2018 6:34 PM, Matt Goodman via Groups.Io wrote:
I have a wheel mask, but rarely use it since it doesn’t prevent the axle end from being painted.

How do folks on this list deal with that? I’m currently dull-coting while still in the truck (while the wheelset is spinning), then subsequently removing the wheel and brush-painting everything to avoid painting the needle journal (usually successfully).

I’d prefer to airbrush them if I can solve that issue.

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio


--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*



<putty.jpg>


Re: AMB wheel masks

roblmclear
 

I'm with Doug and still use the Floquil pens, however knowing they are no longer produced I believe that there is an alternative which has been mentioned before but for the life of me I can't remember what they are called.   I paint the faces of the wheels and then put them in the trucks and paint the backs and the axles whilst spinning the wheel, takes longer to describe than it does to do.

Rob McLear
Aussie.


Re: Wheel painting

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

Like Schuyler I paint the trucks in batches. I have to be careful afterwards so that I can properly label them for storage.

I do best blast all of the hg frames first.  This provides a tooth if they are to be painred.  If they are to remain black  this gives a nice weathered appearance.  Possibly a little highlight here and there.

Bill Pardie





Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Schuyler Larrabee <schuyler.larrabee@...>
Date: 12/11/18 3:41 PM (GMT-10:00)
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Wheel painting

I'm with Bill on this.  I paint scads (technical
term) of wheelsets all at once.  I have
(somewhere) a knock-off wheel mask, which I used
once and decided it was far too much hassle.  I
might even have pitched it from that experience.
What I have done is fold a piece of heavy paper,
then fold it again, twice, so I have a small ridge
about 1/8" high.  I then cut triangular notches in
the ridge into which I set the axles of the
wheelsets, and then I airbrush paint them all, not
worrying about treads, axle ends, or much of
anything else (I do have a booth and I turn the
fan on . . .).  I use some concoction of paint,
something like Denny has, but I have been known to
give the wheel faces a shot of a darker color,
attempting to mimic the journal oil crud
collection.  All that means is a quick shot,
horizontal, towards the wheels still siting on the
ridge of paper.  It generally has little effect on
the inside of the wheels.

When it's time to equip a model with wheels, I
pick out four wheelsets that more-or-less match
and install them, after using the fingernail
technique on the axle tips.  I will clean the
treads with various techniques, whatever feels
right at the time.

BTW, in a related topic, I also paint truck frames
en mass, protecting the journals with stick-on
dots.  I try to do those in even numbers at a time
so there is a selection of pairs that again,
more-or-less match.

Nobody's ever picked on me for my lousy trucks, so
I'm happy.

Schuyler

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
<main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Denny
Anspach
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 5:56 PM
To: RealSteamEraFreightCarList
<RealSTMFC@groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Wheel painting

Like at least one other lister so far, I do not
sweat this issue and just pick up a brush, dip it
into the selected paint, and paint the wheel faces
in situ, i.e. while still in the truck. This has
been a habit for decades, and not once have I had
problems of peeling, fowled-up bearing faces,
slathered wheel treads, etc. And best:  I am
finished by the time that my good friends are
still searching for their wheel masks, etc. ,
finding their gloves, but not yet looking to
firing up the ventilator and compressor to see if
they work and the airbrush is clean.    I will
have completed many more by the time this process
is finally reversed. 

I DO use masks, etc. and fine spray on wheels with
exposed faces, such as locomotive lead truck
wheels, etc. , or with spoked wheels.  I do on
occasion protect the wheel treads with a fine thin
coat of oil applied with a pipe cleaner.  This is
easily wiped off later after the paint dries.

My selected wheel paint is a historic somewhat
random and drifting mash-up of Floquil black,
weathered black, and Rail Brown, a jar of which
resides in front of me on the bench, ready to use.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, CA 95864








Re: Wheel painting

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I'm with Bill on this. I paint scads (technical
term) of wheelsets all at once. I have
(somewhere) a knock-off wheel mask, which I used
once and decided it was far too much hassle. I
might even have pitched it from that experience.
What I have done is fold a piece of heavy paper,
then fold it again, twice, so I have a small ridge
about 1/8" high. I then cut triangular notches in
the ridge into which I set the axles of the
wheelsets, and then I airbrush paint them all, not
worrying about treads, axle ends, or much of
anything else (I do have a booth and I turn the
fan on . . .). I use some concoction of paint,
something like Denny has, but I have been known to
give the wheel faces a shot of a darker color,
attempting to mimic the journal oil crud
collection. All that means is a quick shot,
horizontal, towards the wheels still siting on the
ridge of paper. It generally has little effect on
the inside of the wheels.

When it's time to equip a model with wheels, I
pick out four wheelsets that more-or-less match
and install them, after using the fingernail
technique on the axle tips. I will clean the
treads with various techniques, whatever feels
right at the time.

BTW, in a related topic, I also paint truck frames
en mass, protecting the journals with stick-on
dots. I try to do those in even numbers at a time
so there is a selection of pairs that again,
more-or-less match.

Nobody's ever picked on me for my lousy trucks, so
I'm happy.

Schuyler

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
<main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Denny
Anspach
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 5:56 PM
To: RealSteamEraFreightCarList
<RealSTMFC@groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Wheel painting

Like at least one other lister so far, I do not
sweat this issue and just pick up a brush, dip it
into the selected paint, and paint the wheel faces
in situ, i.e. while still in the truck. This has
been a habit for decades, and not once have I had
problems of peeling, fowled-up bearing faces,
slathered wheel treads, etc. And best: I am
finished by the time that my good friends are
still searching for their wheel masks, etc. ,
finding their gloves, but not yet looking to
firing up the ventilator and compressor to see if
they work and the airbrush is clean. I will
have completed many more by the time this process
is finally reversed.

I DO use masks, etc. and fine spray on wheels with
exposed faces, such as locomotive lead truck
wheels, etc. , or with spoked wheels. I do on
occasion protect the wheel treads with a fine thin
coat of oil applied with a pipe cleaner. This is
easily wiped off later after the paint dries.

My selected wheel paint is a historic somewhat
random and drifting mash-up of Floquil black,
weathered black, and Rail Brown, a jar of which
resides in front of me on the bench, ready to use.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, CA 95864


Re: LNE 7001 - 7200

naptownprr
 

Red Caboose made a box car red LNE car some years ago. I still have mine

Jim Hunter
________________________________________
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Benjamin Hom <b.hom@att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 8:13 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] LNE 7001 - 7200

John Sykes wrote:
"Accurail makes (or made) a reasonably accurate model of this car with LNE markings (boxcar red version as in these photos). I think the end was wrong though."
ine
Define "reasonable". Wrong roof and ends for the 7000-series cars.


Ben Hom


Re: LNE 7001 - 7200

Benjamin Hom
 

John Sykes wrote:
"Accurail makes (or made) a reasonably accurate model of this car with LNE markings (boxcar red version as in these photos).  I think the end was wrong though."

Define "reasonable".  Wrong roof and ends for the 7000-series cars.


Ben Hom

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