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New decal set - NP 1947/1949 steel reefers

Ted Culotta
 

I have a new HO scale decal set that letters one each of the Northern Pacific’s 1947 (R-40-23 clone) and 1949 (R-40-25 clone) steel reefers built by Pacific Car & Foundry. The set, D198, letters two cars. The artwork features completely revised characters and numbers. Details may be found at the Speedwitch site (link below) under the Decals section of the site.


Re: Steam era AAR axle load limits

Tony Thompson
 

Dennis Storzek wrote:

I'm away from work and all my reference materials. Does anyone have a link to a table of the AAR max weight on rail figures used to calculate car load limits? Thanks.
Attached. Tony Thompson


Steam era AAR axle load limits

Dennis Storzek
 

Hi,

I'm away from work and all my reference materials. Does anyone have a link to a table of the AAR max weight on rail figures used to calculate car load limits? Thanks.

Dennis Storzek


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

Dennis Storzek
 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 02:36 PM, John Hagen wrote:

Not being able to use “Spot Color” mode on a printer does not create pixilation.

What is does create is a “spot matrix” pattern in the color. There is a definite difference.

John,

Does it occur to you that the previous poster was using the wrong term? Whether one calls it pixelation or a spot matrix, the end result is pokadots in your graphics, which is a complaint I've heard since the ALPS was first introduced. We have an ALPS, which I don't design for, but I'm under the impression we could get black, white, red, green, blue, and some metallics in addition to CMY, which we don't even stock.  I know Eric occasionally runs two layers of different spot color to get what he needs.

Dennis Storzek


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
 

Dennis,

Not being able to use “Spot Color” mode on a printer does not create pixilation.

What is does create is a “spot matrix” pattern in the color. There is a definite difference.

Pixelation will create a blurred edge along any edge, straight or curved unless It is an absolutely straight line at either 0 or 90 degrees.

A spot matrix will be noticeable when viewing the decal closely, less so if one is a foot or more away but will not be blurred.

I agree this is sort like “six of one; a half dozen of the other” but of the two, I find the matrix to be less of a problem than pixelation.

I use Alps printers for my decals. I use spot colors when ever possible. Sometimes it can’t be done.

Alps only had CMYK color and white cartridges. Other companies who had Alps build versions of the MD series printers for their purposes had other colors available. These could be used in an Alps by changing the color code sticker for an Alps color. Such as using Cyan for a Blue Spot cartridge. Of course, you could not have both a Cyan and the Blue Spot cartridges loaded at the same time. But now it is getting very difficult to find affordable CMYK or White cartridges.

The Alps MD5000 and MD5500 could be used as a dye-sub printer for photos which was a better choice for photos but that required special dye-sub cartridges and a dye-sum key (adaptor). This was not usable for decals, many have tried over time.

What is amazing is how well the Alps MD printers, limited as they are to 600 dpi max. can print decals including some rather tiny lettering if the operator knew ow to do proper vector artwork and knew the ins and outs of these persnickety printers. There was a lot of un-favorable comments about the Alps printed decals, and much of it deserved as many who jumped on the custom decal wagon when they came out did not know how to di it right. They had the color matrix, lots of pixelation and the inks were often so thick so as to prevent them from conforming to the surface.

But, taking time to navigate the long learning curve would lead to some very well done decals.

John Hagen

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 3:11 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

 

John,

Everything you said is true, provided you can set the printer to use "spot color", which is a printer's term for using a solid print of one color ink. If however, you just compose the colered art on the computer screen and allow the computer to try to match the colors, it is going to try to do so with the CMYK processcolors, and on older low resolution printers, the results are less than stellar. One of the advantages of the old ALPS printers is they had a good selection of ribbon colors to choose from.

I have no experiance with the new OKI laser printers, so can't comment.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Old Ulrich / Walthers GS Gondola

Brian Termunde
 

Staffan,
Thank you very much! 

I had hesitated to purchase any being uncertain of the appropriate eras of the schemes. Eventually, I need to pick up more GN books and such since modeling a PNW branchline, GN likely would not be a stranger even though it's not the home road (the Milwaukee and Northern Pacific are).

Thanks again!

Brian R. Termunde
Midvale, UT


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

Dave Parker
 

John Hagen asked:  Why would colors be pixelated?

Since we are talking about Highball Graphics and their new OKI laser printer, this (straight from their website) would seem to answer that question:

With the new OKI C942 we are no longer able to print in multi layer spot colors. It uses Toner on separate drums to print in CMYKW. Print layout now is very simple. You will just need 1 layer for your artwork. first change your background color to a color of your choice (except white). I normally use a light blue. Also make sure the "print background color" option is toggled off.  Create your artwork in the exact colors you want to be printed. This printer matches Pantone colors very well. Like all CMYK printers there are certain colors that do not print so well like light blue's & light gray's. This printer is 1200 DPI so the line spacing is very tight but you will see lines in certain colors. Short of screen printing there is no way around this. Pure white artwork (C=0, M=0, Y=0, K=0) will print white on this machine. All colors except black will have a white underlay automatically.

Dave Parker
Riverside, CA


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

Dennis Storzek
 

John,

Everything you said is true, provided you can set the printer to use "spot color", which is a printer's term for using a solid print of one color ink. If however, you just compose the colered art on the computer screen and allow the computer to try to match the colors, it is going to try to do so with the CMYK processcolors, and on older low resolution printers, the results are less than stellar. One of the advantages of the old ALPS printers is they had a good selection of ribbon colors to choose from.

I have no experiance with the new OKI laser printers, so can't comment.

Dennis Storzek


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

John Hagen <sprinthag@...>
 

Why would colors be pixelated? That is controlled by the artwork. As long as the artwork is a vector format, there should be no pixelation.
Pixelation occurs when when vector artwork is rasterized, or if the artwork is done using a photo program. All photo formats are pixelated (rasterized) and are a poor choice for decal artwork.
Yes, if at a high enough resolution and the file has not been changed or re-scaled, a decent print can be made. But using a SVG (Scalable Vector Graphic) is way better and easier.
Having had decals printed using Oki laser proof printers, I have not found any pixelation. What I do find is problems with the thickness of the printing causing problems with getting the decal to conform to the surface it is applied to and even problems with getting them to adhere to the model.
If they can get around those problems, the Oki printed decals will be a real boon due to their range of colors and high resolutions,
John Hagen


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

Dave Parker
 

Scott:

I think opinions on this will vary.  Colors other than black and white will be pixelated, albeit at 1200 dpi. In general, laser printers do not produce decals that are as opaque as those printed by more traditional means.  But, I think resolution will generally be better.  For me, that's a good trade-off, but folks wanting very bright and bold lettering may not be as satisfied.

The other advantage with Highball's OHKI printer is that you have much more control over color, as it can be programmed to produce just about any Pantone color out there. 

Dave Parker
Riverside, CA


Re: BAR/NH Insulated Box Car Resin Kit

Scott
 

Dave, is that a good thing or bad thing?

Scott McDonald


Re: unbuilt Westerfield HO kits F/S

 

I have no stock car kits.  HTG


Re: [Non-DoD Source] Re: [RealSTMFC] Stupid hand brake question

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Gang;

A further point is that this arrangement of cars without their own individually operable brake, was obviously not ideal. PRR for one, had flats and gons which had: a) removable brake staffs, b) rotatable (and still operable) brake staffs in the USRA-design G25, and didn't much like either. This led to a long discussion of what might be better, and resulted in the adoption of pump brakes, and sideways-mounted vertical wheel handbrakes, mounted on the left yoke, an elegant solution for the gons. Many of the later flat cars had two sets of brake gear and hand brakes on either end, also a deal allowing at least one set operable when needing to knock one down onto the deck. See classes G26, G27, G28, G30, G31, F25, F28, F29, etc., if you are interested in the progression.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Guy Wilber via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, October 5, 2018 3:55 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: [RealSTMFC] Stupid hand brake question


Dennis wrote:

“Point remains, however, either requirement unifies the load and idler(s) into a single unit, which does have an operable hand brake.”

We are in full agreement!

Guy Wilber
Colfax, California


Wanted two kits

Chuck Cover
 

Group,

I am looking for two kits:
Westerfield #3652 ATSF BX6
Sunshine #67.5  C&O 44000-44999 gondola

Please contact off list.  Thanks

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM


Re: Ulrich GN GS Gondola

rwitt_2000
 

Garth,

Thanks for the reference to the photo of the GN GS with heap shields. - Bob Witt


Re: Ulrich GN GS Gondola

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Good Friends,

As I contemplated how to add the piping and brake levers (AB brakes, as upgraded) to my small collection of Ulrich GS gondolas, I thought to look in my collection of Gregg Train Shed Cyclopedias. I didn't find any help with the piping and rod arrangement (poop!), but to my surprise found a builder's photo of the GN car with the heap shield ends. It is on page 239 of the 1940 Car Builders' Cyclopedia, or Gregg reprint No. 5 with the same pagination.

The GN car is numbered 75899, from series 75500-75999 (Pressed Steel Car Co., 7-37). It is similar to the Ulrich cars, with two major differences. The Ulrich models depict (somewhat crudely, but consider the model's age) the proprietary Enterprise link arrangement. This tends to hide the sloped part of the lower car body. The GN car appears to have simple chains winding around a rod, making the visible part of the winding mechanism appear more delicate and opening up the sloped area to view. The second difference is that the GN prototype has a brake gear box and its brake platform is mounted below the lower of the two horizontal stiffening ribs on the end. The Ulrich model has the brake platform mounted above that rib, and it has an upright rod and wheel. The Ulrich GN model thus doesn't look much like its supposed prototype (barring a lot of work with a Dremel). The Ulrich cars with flat ends and the staff brake are much closer to SP G-50-9 through G-50-12 from the 1920s, which is really what I want. The GN car can stay in the hobby store display case.

That still doesn't solve how the brake rods and piping ran. I wonder if there is a wreck photo of one of these cars tipped over. Any ideas?

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


Re: BREX 76252 upgrade

Peter Ness
 

Very nice upgrade, Lester and good blog as well. I think you are taking the better approach to do the upgrades before operating on the layout.  I have placed far too many cars in service that I intend to upgrade when I get a round “tuit”.

 

Peter Ness

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Lester Breuer
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 12:30 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] BREX 76252 upgrade

 

I keep building  to reduce the inventory so another blog post.   I chose BREX  76252 steel refrigerator, a 5th Avenue Car Shops/Accurail kit to assemble and upgrade.  Upgrade includes Kadee running board, installing wire grabs and ladder rungs and other details on sides.  Adding and improving  “B” end details and underbody.   The photos and writeup are on my blog I started to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following:

 

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/

Lester Breuer


Re: unbuilt Westerfield HO kits F/S

Gary McMills
 

Hi Hugh,

I would be interested in Santa Fe stock cars.

thanks,

Gary McMills


 

On 2018-10-08 22:51, Hugh Guillaume via Groups.Io wrote:

I have fifty-nine unbuilt Westerfield HO kits for sale.  $25 each plus actual postage to US address.  I will send a list via e-mail: mguill1224@...   Hugh T Guillaume


Re: Georgia USRA Steel Rebuild w/Aluminum paint

Ken Roth
 

Scalecoat silver with a bit of gray or white works well for me.  OR, if you still have any, the very best is Floquil Platinum Mist.  No grain problem with these.  Ken Roth


Re: Old Ulrich / Walthers GS Gondola

Staffan Ehnbom
 

Brian,
Of the three GN schemes on the Trainworx site only the one with the small sans serif lettering road name is correct for 1953. Should probably have a black background to the goat in the herald, car color mineral red. The slant serif road name wasn't introduced until 1956.

Staffan Ehnbom


On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 6:16 AM Brian Termunde via Groups.Io <GCRDS=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Tony,
No argument from me, and while I would be happy to have the correct models, considering the only 40 - 46 foot gons we N Scalers had were those ancient Atlas and Botchedmann gons, I have few complaints. Again, while I would prefer to have accurate models, these are better then none at all.

But I do have a question about the the GN gons, while even if not correct for that particular body, which, if any of those paint schemes would be appropriate for my 1953 era railroad.

TIA!

Brian Termunde
Midvale, UT

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