Date   

Machinist blocks

Lester Breuer
 

In my posts describing builds of various flat kit resin freight cars, I state I start the build with the car body “basic box.”  I use machinist blocks to keep the car body square during this phase of the build.  I have attempted to share the various types of machinist blocks I have in the tool drawer and how I use them to complete the basic car body box.  Photos and writeup are on my blog I started to share photos and writeup on Freight Cars, etc. of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following:

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/


Lester Breuer

 


Re: Bangor & Aroostook 1927 Boxcar 61000 series

Benjamin Hom
 

Don Valentine wrote:
"I don't know of any period on the BAR where a pine tree herald could be used as it was the emblem of the neighboring Maine Central, the Pine Tree Route."

RJ is referring to this herald, which does have a tiny pine tree at the bottom:


Ben Hom


Re: Bangor & Aroostook 1927 Boxcar 61000 series

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

Hello RJ,

     I don't know of any period on the BAR where a pine tree herald could be used 
as it was the emblem of the neighboring Maine Central, the Pine Tree Route.

     By-the-way, it's nice to see you use the proper term, "herald" or "emblem" 
rather than that damned Madison Avenue garbage calling it a "logo". Just my 
humble opinion.

Cordially, Don Valentine

Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: 34" Boxcars

richard glueck
 

Beautiful detail work, particularly around the doors.  I've done this, and it's no mean feat.  Congratulations!


Re: Bangor & Aroostook 1927 Boxcar 61000 series

richard glueck
 

Absolutely perfect for the era you modeled.  Beautiful.


Re: Here is the cover of our own Stephen Hile's UTLX Steam Era Tank Cars

Ted Culotta
 

Yes, I do. I will make the announcement later today about ordering.

Thank you.

Cheers,
Ted Culotta


Re: 34 ft Boxcars (was 34" Boxcars)

Benjamin Hom
 

Fantastic work, Tim!

...although the typo in the subject line brings this scene from "This is Spinal Tap" to mind:


Ben Hom



From: Tim Meyer <floridatenwheeler@...>
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2018 7:40 AM
Subject: [RealSTMFC] 34" Boxcars

Here are some pictures of my latest cars in 1-1/2" scale.

Tim Meyer




Re: Bangor & Aroostook 1927 Boxcar 61000 series

O Fenton Wells
 

Looks very nice.  Thanks for sharing
Fenton


Re: 34" Boxcars

Tim Meyer
 

Hi Bill

I have a coal fired 10-wheeler that I built.  I will look for a good picture. 

Tim Meyer 


Re: 34" Boxcars

Bill Welch
 

Wow! What is your motive power please?

Bill Welch


34" Boxcars

Tim Meyer
 

Here are some pictures of my latest cars in 1-1/2" scale.

Tim Meyer


Re: Bangor & Aroostook 1927 Boxcar 61000 series

Paul Doggett
 

Looks really good RJ.

Paul Doggett England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 


On 3 Jul 2018, at 01:37, radiodial868 <radiodial@...> wrote:

Thanks all for the help. Other than the typical blobby F&C decals, it turned out OK!   The one decal that was of high quality (the pine tree herald) I couldn't use for 1939.


RJ Dial
Burlingame, CA


Re: Wabash War Emergency Boxcar Part Three

gary laakso
 

Bill:

 

Wonderful job as always but applying rust to your tools (see the ladder picture) is a new way to do things and no wonder the ladders will be so realistic!  The extra work on the diagonal braces will really make for eye-catching corners on the car.  

 

Gary Laakso

Northwest of Mike Brock

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Welch
Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 1:30 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Wabash War Emergency Boxcar Part Three

 

Progress on the Wabash model over the last few days:

—Because of the location of the Sill Steps I glued lengths of 4 x 4 styrene into the corners of the floor to provide more area to drill into.

—I started what has become routine for me improving the ladders with 0.010 styrene rod replacing the molded-in ladder rungs. I like to do this in stages as it is a little tedious but the results are worth it I think.

—The three in-service photos I have of these 87000 series cars show that two-to-four of the diagonal braces on the end panels to be wrinkled to some degree, evidence of the stresses they undergo and I wanted to model this. First I made the bracing from 0.005 sheet styrene and fit each one individually and numbered them according to their location. I also numbered their location on the model. Next I taped them down to a metal ruler and applied the three rivets to seven of them. (An Athearn gondola was the source for these.) On the eighth brace I drilled a #79 hole where the middle rivet would have been, as if the rivet has popped out. I elected to have one unwrinkled brace on each side with the left end panel on each side having two wrinkled braces. To help create the proper appearance I used bits of .005 styrene to create an uneven surface or substrate onto which the braces would be carefully affixed. For most of these raised locations I used two levels of .005 styrene to create a grade or slope. For the brace with a hole in it this substrate has a gap in it. I let these dry overnight so I could smooth them with a blade and sandpaper to make a nicely contoured smooth surface.

In the process of examining the prototype photos I noted that there was a riveted vertical metal strip along the terminal edge of each end panel so before I attached the diagonal braces I cut more .005 sheet styrene to create the metal strips and glued them in place. Next I carefully glued down each diagonal using Tamiya Extra Thin very sparingly and blowing on the joint to speed drying. The wrinkling does not come across very dramatically in the photos but will be more apparent I think when painted. On one side I copied the wrinkling in one of the photos I have. One the side in these photos I more or less free-lanced using what I saw in the other two photos as a guide.

Bill Welch


Re: PRRPro X23 project

Bruce Smith
 

​Sure! I'm hoping to get to do an R7 as well, but mine will be FGEX.


Regards

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Scott <repairman87@...>
Sent: Monday, July 2, 2018 9:42 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] PRRPro X23 project
 
Bruce,

Does the Westerfield Mathieson R7 qualify?

Scott McDonald


Re: PRRPro X23 project

Scott
 

Bruce,

Does the Westerfield Mathieson R7 qualify?

Scott McDonald


Here is the cover of our own Stephen Hile's UTLX Steam Era Tank Cars

gary laakso
 


Re: Bangor & Aroostook 1927 Boxcar 61000 series

radiodial868
 

Thanks all for the help. Other than the typical blobby F&C decals, it turned out OK!   The one decal that was of high quality (the pine tree herald) I couldn't use for 1939.


RJ Dial
Burlingame, CA


Selling messages on the RealSTMFC

Mikebrock
 

Guys,

Given the fact that the RealSTMFC is currently home to elevated numbers of selling messages, it seems useful to give to the members the rules to be used by members either selling or purchasing models of steam era freight cars or  associated items listed in the rules:

 

RealSTMFC rules regarding sales:

“Messages regarding the selling of products associated with freight cars as part of a commercial enterprise must be sent during the period of noon Friday EST and Sunday midnight EST.

Each seller is allowed one message per item unless a correction is needed. Seller messages MUST include OFF GROUP addresses for replies. Replies by members to seller messages MUST be OFF GROUP.

Selling messages MUST include a statement that replies MUST be OFF GROUP and must include an Email address to which responders can reply to. This address should use the term "AT" instead of the "@" sign to ensure that the address is not edited by Groups .io. The reply must be sent to the email address including the "@" sign and NOT to the RealSTMFC.”

Mike Brock

RealSTMFC Owner

 


Wabash War Emergency Boxcar Part Three

Bill Welch
 

Progress on the Wabash model over the last few days:

—Because of the location of the Sill Steps I glued lengths of 4 x 4 styrene into the corners of the floor to provide more area to drill into.

—I started what has become routine for me improving the ladders with 0.010 styrene rod replacing the molded-in ladder rungs. I like to do this in stages as it is a little tedious but the results are worth it I think.

—The three in-service photos I have of these 87000 series cars show that two-to-four of the diagonal braces on the end panels to be wrinkled to some degree, evidence of the stresses they undergo and I wanted to model this. First I made the bracing from 0.005 sheet styrene and fit each one individually and numbered them according to their location. I also numbered their location on the model. Next I taped them down to a metal ruler and applied the three rivets to seven of them. (An Athearn gondola was the source for these.) On the eighth brace I drilled a #79 hole where the middle rivet would have been, as if the rivet has popped out. I elected to have one unwrinkled brace on each side with the left end panel on each side having two wrinkled braces. To help create the proper appearance I used bits of .005 styrene to create an uneven surface or substrate onto which the braces would be carefully affixed. For most of these raised locations I used two levels of .005 styrene to create a grade or slope. For the brace with a hole in it this substrate has a gap in it. I let these dry overnight so I could smooth them with a blade and sandpaper to make a nicely contoured smooth surface.

In the process of examining the prototype photos I noted that there was a riveted vertical metal strip along the terminal edge of each end panel so before I attached the diagonal braces I cut more .005 sheet styrene to create the metal strips and glued them in place. Next I carefully glued down each diagonal using Tamiya Extra Thin very sparingly and blowing on the joint to speed drying. The wrinkling does not come across very dramatically in the photos but will be more apparent I think when painted. On one side I copied the wrinkling in one of the photos I have. One the side in these photos I more or less free-lanced using what I saw in the other two photos as a guide.

Bill Welch


Re: Pennsy H30: date for Grey scheme w/Shadow Keystone

Bill Welch
 

Thanks for doing this Bruce. Not sure about why I thought these cars were welded but I think you are correct that I was thinking about the bolsters. Curious that the article did not address the handbrakes, of which I see at least three different types.

Bill Welch

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