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Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] GN 50 footer

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Nice build, Clark!

 

Elden Gatwood

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Clark Propst
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] GN 50 footer

 

I built a ton of cars the first five months of the year. This is the only car I’ve worked on since. A normal pace  ;  ))

Since then I’ve picked up a couple kits off eBay and traded with friends for a couple others. So, I now have a slight cushion to boredom when cold weather hits. This Westerfield kit came as wood door and a half Auto car. The instructions shows a version with a 6’ steel door I decided to buy a 6’ steel door and the correct decals to change the car for Westerfield to make the conversion. The body was painted with Tru-color paints, I used Scalecoat on the underframe and trucks. Weathering Prismacolor pencils and Pan Pastels.

Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa
Re: Question about weathering

Brian Shumaker
 

If you use a solvent based color coat and/or clear coat, water based weathering can be wiped off with isopropyl alcohol before it dries completely. Chalk can be washed off with water. It's best to just practice on throw away cars to get your 'feel'.
Brian
Re: GN 50 footer

James Brewer
 

Clark,

Great looking car; I love the subtle weathering!

Jim Brewer
Question about weathering

Ray Hutchison
 

Decided to post this after reading comments about pledge...

I am supremely unconfident about weathering cars and engines.  Is there a way to apply overcoat to original finish that might allow for removal of later weathering if one decides that the weathering did not turn out as expected?  A finish where acrylic colors might later be removed, for example?

(I have noted that there is a GN 4-8-4 with very heavy weathering that has sat at ebay for many months, I think the reason being that the finish is not something that anyone else would want sitting on their layout.)

rh
Re: Using Pledge

Bruce Smith
 

Mont,

Yes, the military modelers, from whom I learned about Future, overcoat decals with a coat of Future to help them disappear. I think that the idea is to have a similar finish on the entire model, prior to applying a flat finish. I can’t say I’ve noticed a huge difference, but on cars where I am not going to be weathering much, or at all, like my in-progress GN plywood cars, or some passenger cars, I think it does improve the final product.

Regards,
Bruce

On Sep 23, 2020, at 6:54 AM, Mont Switzer <MSwitzer@...> wrote:

Bruce,
 
I’ve not OVERCOATED decals with Future.  I assume it helps the decals lay down better and that is why you do it? 
 
I use Testor’s dullcoat to eliminate the Future shine.  Sometimes a second coat is required.
 
Mont  
 
Montford L. Switzer
President
Switzer Tank Lines, Inc.
Fall Creek Leasing, LLC.
(765) 836-2914
Re: Using Pledge

Douglas Harding
 

The Pledge/Future floor finish product is 100% clear acrylic. No need to thin for airbrushing. It can also be brushed on, good for small areas. Clean up with water. It provides a gloss finish perfect for decals. I have created a flat finish by mixing Tamiya Flat Base with, at a 10 to 1 ratio.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of lsittler
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 5:40 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Using Pledge

 

Good morning- I have been using Pledge to affix rivet decals to plastic and resin, based on the advice from Bill Welch and others in this group. It has worked very well. In those cases, I was brushing Pledge in the areas where the rivets were to be placed. But I have read that others use Pledge as a finish coat before applying decals. I am assuming that in those cases, Pledge was applied over  acrylic paint such as Polyscale, due to the flat finish of those paints, correct? Do you spray it on? If so, do you thin it? And what's the thinner? Or do you brush it in the areas where the decals go? Also, I'm thinking that with a paint like Scalecoat 2, this would be unnecessary since that paint has a gloss finish already  and  decals can be applied right on top. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks. Les

Re: Using Pledge

Mont Switzer
 

Bruce,

 

I’ve not OVERCOATED decals with Future.  I assume it helps the decals lay down better and that is why you do it? 

 

I use Testor’s dullcoat to eliminate the Future shine.  Sometimes a second coat is required.

 

Mont  

 

Montford L. Switzer

President

Switzer Tank Lines, Inc.

Fall Creek Leasing, LLC.

mswitzer@...

(765) 836-2914

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bruce Smith
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 7:49 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Using Pledge

 

Les,

 

Airbrush, no thinner, better in a couple thin coats. It can go on over any paint, acrylic or not. Just make sure that the non-acrylic paint is completely dry (48 hours).

 

If a paint works well for you for decaling already, no need for Future.

 

I typically do the whole car side, although I concentrate on the areas where decals will go to make sure that they are covered. I often, but not always, do a coat OVER the decals after they are on. 

 

If you just have a small decal to do, such as a chalk mark, then use a brush, just in that area. 

 

Regards,

Bruce

Bruce Smith

Auburn, AL

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of lsittler <lsittler@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 5:40 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Using Pledge

 

Good morning- I have been using Pledge to affix rivet decals to plastic and resin, based on the advice from Bill Welch and others in this group. It has worked very well. In those cases, I was brushing Pledge in the areas where the rivets were to be placed. But I have read that others use Pledge as a finish coat before applying decals. I am assuming that in those cases, Pledge was applied over  acrylic paint such as Polyscale, due to the flat finish of those paints, correct? Do you spray it on? If so, do you thin it? And what's the thinner? Or do you brush it in the areas where the decals go? Also, I'm thinking that with a paint like Scalecoat 2, this would be unnecessary since that paint has a gloss finish already  and  decals can be applied right on top. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks. Les

Re: Using Pledge

Bruce Smith
 

Les,

Airbrush, no thinner, better in a couple thin coats. It can go on over any paint, acrylic or not. Just make sure that the non-acrylic paint is completely dry (48 hours).

If a paint works well for you for decaling already, no need for Future.

I typically do the whole car side, although I concentrate on the areas where decals will go to make sure that they are covered. I often, but not always, do a coat OVER the decals after they are on. 

If you just have a small decal to do, such as a chalk mark, then use a brush, just in that area. 

Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of lsittler <lsittler@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 5:40 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Using Pledge
 
Good morning- I have been using Pledge to affix rivet decals to plastic and resin, based on the advice from Bill Welch and others in this group. It has worked very well. In those cases, I was brushing Pledge in the areas where the rivets were to be placed. But I have read that others use Pledge as a finish coat before applying decals. I am assuming that in those cases, Pledge was applied over  acrylic paint such as Polyscale, due to the flat finish of those paints, correct? Do you spray it on? If so, do you thin it? And what's the thinner? Or do you brush it in the areas where the decals go? Also, I'm thinking that with a paint like Scalecoat 2, this would be unnecessary since that paint has a gloss finish already  and  decals can be applied right on top. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks. Les

Re: Using Pledge

Mont Switzer
 

Les,

 

I think the Pledge you are referring to is the old Future Floor Wax.  If that is the case I can relate my experience with it.

 

1.       When using flat or semi-gloss paints I apply the Pledge before decals.  This product seems to suck the decals down when a[applied afterwards. 

2.       I spray Pledge through my air brush and apply it with a paint brush depending on the size of area I am working with.

3.       Over time the Pledge gets a little thick in the bottle, but it is easily thinned.  I used distilled water.

4.       I do not feel there is a need to use Pledge over Scalecoat and Scalecoat II glossy finish paints.  They take decals well.

5.       Pledge dries fast and is decal ready in about 15 minutes.

6.       I believe it has some self-leveling characteristics.

 

I have not tried using Pledge OVER rivet decals, but it seems like a pretty good idea to try.  I do try to avoid applying any sort of decal on unpainted (uncoated) styrene.  The rivet and weld seam decals seem to adhere better to paint or Pledge.

 

Mont

 

Montford L. Switzer

President

Switzer Tank Lines, Inc.

Fall Creek Leasing, LLC.

mswitzer@...

(765) 836-2914

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of lsittler
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 6:40 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Using Pledge

 

Good morning- I have been using Pledge to affix rivet decals to plastic and resin, based on the advice from Bill Welch and others in this group. It has worked very well. In those cases, I was brushing Pledge in the areas where the rivets were to be placed. But I have read that others use Pledge as a finish coat before applying decals. I am assuming that in those cases, Pledge was applied over  acrylic paint such as Polyscale, due to the flat finish of those paints, correct? Do you spray it on? If so, do you thin it? And what's the thinner? Or do you brush it in the areas where the decals go? Also, I'm thinking that with a paint like Scalecoat 2, this would be unnecessary since that paint has a gloss finish already  and  decals can be applied right on top. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks. Les

Re: Using Pledge (Future)

Benjamin Hom
 

Les Sittler asked:
"Any advice would be most appreciated."
Using Pledge

lsittler
 

Good morning- I have been using Pledge to affix rivet decals to plastic and resin, based on the advice from Bill Welch and others in this group. It has worked very well. In those cases, I was brushing Pledge in the areas where the rivets were to be placed. But I have read that others use Pledge as a finish coat before applying decals. I am assuming that in those cases, Pledge was applied over  acrylic paint such as Polyscale, due to the flat finish of those paints, correct? Do you spray it on? If so, do you thin it? And what's the thinner? Or do you brush it in the areas where the decals go? Also, I'm thinking that with a paint like Scalecoat 2, this would be unnecessary since that paint has a gloss finish already  and  decals can be applied right on top. Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks. Les
Re: GN 50 footer

Paul Doggett
 

Clark 

Another great looking car very nicely modelled.

Paul 


On 22 Sep 2020, at 23:20, Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote:


I built a ton of cars the first five months of the year. This is the only car I’ve worked on since. A normal pace  ;  ))
Since then I’ve picked up a couple kits off eBay and traded with friends for a couple others. So, I now have a slight cushion to boredom when cold weather hits. This Westerfield kit came as wood door and a half Auto car. The instructions shows a version with a 6’ steel door I decided to buy a 6’ steel door and the correct decals to change the car for Westerfield to make the conversion. The body was painted with Tru-color paints, I used Scalecoat on the underframe and trucks. Weathering Prismacolor pencils and Pan Pastels.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

Attachments:
Re: GN 50 footer

Scott
 

All of the cars in that series that didn't have end doors where rebuilt in 1940ish to 6ft doors cars.

Scott McDonald 
GN 50 footer

Clark Propst
 

I built a ton of cars the first five months of the year. This is the only car I’ve worked on since. A normal pace  ;  ))
Since then I’ve picked up a couple kits off eBay and traded with friends for a couple others. So, I now have a slight cushion to boredom when cold weather hits. This Westerfield kit came as wood door and a half Auto car. The instructions shows a version with a 6’ steel door I decided to buy a 6’ steel door and the correct decals to change the car for Westerfield to make the conversion. The body was painted with Tru-color paints, I used Scalecoat on the underframe and trucks. Weathering Prismacolor pencils and Pan Pastels.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa
Re: Dr. Denny Anspach, MD 1934-2020

David Siegfried
 




On Sep 21, 2020, at 4:08 PM, Jack Burgess <jack@...> wrote:



I had long heard that Denny was heavily involved in the creation of the California State Railroad Museum which is confirmed by this account.

 

Jack Burgess

 

From: California State Railroad Museum Foundation [mailto:info@...]
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 11:39 AM
To: jack@...
Subject: In Memoriam: Dr. Denny Anspach, MD 1934-2020

 

 

A Lifelong Rail Enthusiast & Advocate,

California State Railroad Museum Foundation Board Member

Dr. Denny Anspach, M.D., Passed Away September 20

 

 

 

Dr. Denny Anspach M.D., a highly esteemed member of the California State Railroad Museum Foundation Board of Directors, passed away on Sunday, September 20, 2020 at the age of 86 after a long battle with cancer. A passionate rail enthusiast, Dr. Anspach was instrumental in the vision for and creation of the California State Railroad Museum that opened in 1981.

 

Born in Chicago in 1934, Dr. Anspach was a graduate of Stanford University medical school, a retired radiologist in Sacramento (which included serving as Chief of Radiology at Sutter General Hospital), and Arden Park resident for 50+ years. While growing up in Chicago, Dr. Anspach had a fascination with railroads from a young age and was committed to preserving their legacy over the course of his entire lifetime. After relocating to Sacramento, Dr. Anspach hosted a historic dinner in 1970 for California Governor Ronald Reagan aboard the Gold Coast, an occasion designed to win the governor’s support for what would one day become the California State Railroad Museum. Ronald Reagan would later turn the first shovelful of dirt to signify the start of the construction of the museum.

 

“There is no question that we would not have the California State Railroad Museum without Dr. Denny Anspach, he was truly the ‘Founding Father,” said Cheryl Marcell, President & CEO of the California State Railroad Museum Foundation. “He was my guide, my historian, and my counselor in all things as I stepped into the role of President & CEO of the Foundation. I cherished our long breakfast meetings at The Sutter Club, our travels throughout the country and enjoyed listening and learning. He would often say that we shouldn’t get bogged down by policies and procedures and if it was the right thing to do, we should just do it! He will forever be remembered for his passion and his dedication and we are all better human beings by knowing Dr. Denny Anspach.” 

 

Dr. Anspach was also the founding president of the Sacramento Trust for Historic Preservation and was the primary author of the nearly 200-page “California State Railroad Museum: Recommendations for Planning & Development” that was published in 1972 and served as the master plan for the world-class museum. He served as the unofficial but effective custodian of many prized locomotive and was instrumental in the relocation of the Gov. Stanford, the Central Pacific railroad's first locomotive that remains on display in the Railroad Museum. He was honored to serve as master of ceremonies for the grand opening of the California State Railroad Museum (that coincided with Railfair ’81) at the Old Sacramento Waterfront.

 

“Dr. Denny Anspach was a public servant not by vocation but by advocation,” said Ty Smith, Museum Director for the California State Railroad Museum. “Over the last three years, I had the great pleasure of traveling, laughing, and learning with him. I came to understand that, although he had many interests, three things animated his life: his family, his work as a medical doctor, and his stewardship of the California State Railroad Museum. I intend to honor his legacy by putting my maximum effort into ensuring that the Museum will continue to help people imagine their futures, by understanding our collective past. Dr. Anspach has passed, but his good work is forever enshrined in the Museum and the community.”

 

In 2014, the national Railway & Locomotive Historical Society presented Dr. Anspach with the prestigious Gerald M. Best Senior Achievement Award, named for the famed railroad historian. Up until his death, Dr. Anspach remained active on the Board of Directors of the California State Railroad Museum Foundation, an organization he helped to create, and served on its executive committee. He is survived by his wife Rev. Diane Wenthe, daughter Carolyn Smith and son-in-Law Kenneth Smith, son David Anspach, granddaughter Anna Smith, grandson David Smith, and brother Dr. William Anspach. At the request of the family and in lieu of flowers, any remembrance donations should be made to the California State Railroad Museum Foundation. Click here to make a memorial donation.

 

The California State Railroad Museum Foundation recently commissioned the creation of a bronze bust in honor of Dr. Anspach that will be put on display at the museum in the near future. 

 

 

 

 

About the California State Railroad Museum Foundation 

The California State Railroad Museum Foundation supports both the California State Railroad Museum, in Sacramento, and Railtown 1897 State Historic Park in Jamestown. Our mission is to generate revenue and awareness on behalf of these destinations while supporting the preservation, interpretation and promotion of our railroad heritage. 

 

 

 

California State Railroad Museum Foundation | 106 K St., Suite 200, Sacramento, CA 95814

Trusted Email from Constant Contact - Try it FREE today.

 
Re: Proto 2000 Stock Car

Allan Smith
 


I have two Mather Stock Car Kits 1 GSX 4048 and 1 GM&O 109028 that I will sell for $15 each plus shipping if anyone is interested. Both are new in the box. These are Mather 40' Double Deck Stock Cars

Please contact me off list Smithal9@...

Al Smith

On Tuesday, September 22, 2020, 03:23:01 AM PDT, Garth Groff and Sally Sanford <mallardlodge1000@...> wrote:


Ray,

You should be able to find some of these at a train show (if we ever have them again!), or on eBay. The stock cars don't seem to have sold particularly well, and lots of them got dumped on the outlet markets.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🦆

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 9:31 PM Ray Carson via groups.io <PrewarUPModeler=protonmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Thanks everyone for your responses, they are very helpful. If the kit is still at my LHS, then I may get it.

The general stock car practices are also useful.

-Ray
Photo: Erie Boxcar 86601 (1915)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: Erie Boxcar 86601 (1915)

A photo from the Detroit Public Library:

https://digitalcollections.detroitpubliclibrary.org/islandora/object/islandora%3A161835

Click and hold to enlarge photo.

CL&S gondola in background.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA
Photo: PRR Gondolas With Wood Grinder Loads (1910)

Bob Chaparro
 

Photo: PRR Gondolas With Wood Grinder Loads (1910)

A photo from the Hagley Museum:

https://digital.hagley.org/72350_0861?solr_nav%5Bid%5D=d56b54be5b2005e726f3&solr_nav%5Bpage%5D=5&solr_nav%5Boffset%5D=5

This photo can be enlarged quite a bit.

Note "PL" reporting marks.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA
Re: Dr. Denny Anspach, MD 1934-2020

Kurt Stoebe
 

I learned about Dr Anspach through this group. I contacted him a couple of years ago and introduced myself. I told him we were both  part time residents of West Okoboji and suggested that we meet sometime when he was there. Unfortunately this did not happen. 

I discovered the location of the the Anspach home on one of my morning walks.  It was easy to identify through the unique placement of a semaphore signal head near the garage . 

I was greatly saddened to learn of the doctor’s placement in hospice last week. Early Sunday morning while on my walk, I stopped in the Anspach driveway and thought of all the enjoyment that he and brother had through the years on West Okoboji. 

Then I was chilled with the thought that he would probably never see it again.

There is a nature preserve near the cabin that is dedicated to another member of the family. They have certainly left a legacy for all of us. 

To a life well lived!

Kurt Stoebe
Humboldt,IA
Re: Dr. Denny Anspach, MD 1934-2020

william darnaby
 

I don't know what to say that has not already been said about Denny, especially in relation to our engaging hobby.  I knew him from another angle as he became my mentor in all things wood boats.  His family had, or still has, an impressive collection of wood runabouts and my wife and I had the pleasure of riding in them and even piloting them during our visits to Okoboji to see Denny and Carol.  I have spent nearly my entire life on one of the twin lakes surrounding Monticello, Indiana and had desired a wood runabout since childhood but did not know where to start.  Denny coached me with his usual enthusiasm about what to look for and what to watch out for in a wood boat.  With that knowledge I made the purchase of a 1955 Chris-Craft in 2006 and had the pleasure of taking Denny and Carol for rides in it on one of their all too infrequent journeys through Indiana.  He approved.

Bill Darnaby
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