Date   

Re: Shapeways Klasing hand brakes

O Fenton Wells
 

I’ll buy a couple. How many on a spruce?


On Feb 10, 2021, at 11:57 AM, Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote:

I bought some Klasing hand brakes from Shapeways. I got ten life times supply! If anyone would like a few for a modest price, please contact me off list.
cepropst@q.com


Shapeways Klasing hand brakes

Clark Propst
 

I bought some Klasing hand brakes from Shapeways. I got ten life times supply! If anyone would like a few for a modest price, please contact me off list.
cepropst@q.com


Re: SP Gondola

Tim O'Connor
 


ahem... Beetle :-D

On 2/10/2021 11:00 AM, Douglas Harding wrote:

No. Photo is to early. The first Beatle sold in the US was in 1949 in New York City. Blow up the photo and you can see that car has a defined trunk lid, very similar to the last car on the right.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill J. via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2021 9:28 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] SP Gondola

 

The second car in the left lane certainly looks like a Volkswagen.  Could it be?

Bill Jolitz 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Technique for gluing .005" styrene sheet laminations w/o scalloping and warping

Robert kirkham
 

I’d forgotten this advice Andy, thanks!   I’ve been touching a 000 brush of Tamiya solvent to the edge of the lamination - and having the marks develop.  So - no.1 - back to the Testors solvent.  I think one reason I started doing the brush to the edge technique (again) is the challenge of bonding larger parts, where having the solvent flash off and yet the surfaces still bond in place is increased.  I’m thinking a larger brush (or even a damp cloth) might be the answer there.

Rob   
 

On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 11:12 PM Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:
I found a method of glueing 0.005" styrene to a base styrene years ago which has stood the test of time. In pattern making, weakly attached laminations can often delaminate when pulling an RTV mold from the pattern in the mold box. Here is my solution in avoiding warping and sclloped edges. I have shared this to the list years ago, but it is simple.

I place the 0.005" styrene piece in the location for which it is destined to be attached. A light pencil mark around the perimeter allows me to brush on a somewhat thin coat of a slow drying styrene cement. I use liquid Testors from the bottle. The trick is to allow the Testors to flash off; immediately after the liquid dissapearing, place the 0.005" piece where it is intended to be.

What we are doing here is leaving just enough to bond, but not with any extra solvent. By doing it this way, no residual solvent is left behind attacking the 0.005" piece over time. Since no solvent was applied to the edge of the thin sheet of styrene, there is no scalloping which distorts the edges.

I do believe the slower evaporating solvents are necessary for this to work. No MEK, Tenax or Acetone, please! The bond is lifetime long and will not come unattached making this ideal for patterns which will go into a mold box.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 6:42:06 PM PST, Robert kirkham <rdkirkham@...> wrote:


I was looking at the .005" diagonal straps used on a recent single sheathed boxcar project - and noted that there were small divots in the surface of the straps.   Its an age-old problem when using thin styrene.   Yes, I know there are other materials out there, and one could instead use CA.

But I was wondering: are there any ways to improve my technique?  Or ways to dilute the strength of the glue so it works fine, but does't cause divots? 

Has anyone developed a tried and true reliable process?  

So far, I just use glazing putty to fix the problem.  Not an ideal solution!

Rob Kirkham




--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: SP Gondola

Douglas Harding
 

No. Photo is to early. The first Beatle sold in the US was in 1949 in New York City. Blow up the photo and you can see that car has a defined trunk lid, very similar to the last car on the right.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill J. via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2021 9:28 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] SP Gondola

 

The second car in the left lane certainly looks like a Volkswagen.  Could it be?

Bill Jolitz 


Re: F&C meat reefer prototypes

Tim O'Connor
 

Phil

Thanks.

I have no photos of the 37 foot 7xxx series Wilson cars. They were gone before 1955.


On 2/9/2021 9:53 PM, nyc3001 . wrote:
Tim,

There are photos of a completed model at this link. 

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/built-rtr-wilson-car-lines-wcl-funaro-1800129209

-Phil

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: F&C meat reefer prototypes

Tim O'Connor
 

Thanks Phil.

Unfortunately, I have no photos of that number series (7xxx), but those were the only
37 foot reefers Wilson had in 1950 and they were gone before 1955. Wilson also had
a few series of shorter cars - 34 to 36 ft - And some of the 36 foot rebuilds lasted into
the 1960s.


On 2/9/2021 9:53 PM, nyc3001 . wrote:
Tim,

There are photos of a completed model at this link. 

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/built-rtr-wilson-car-lines-wcl-funaro-1800129209

-Phil

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: SP Gondola

Bill J.
 

The second car in the left lane certainly looks like a Volkswagen.  Could it be?

Bill Jolitz 


SP Gondola

Garth Groff and Sally Sanford
 

Friends,

Yesterday while thrashing around on the web in old copies of CALIFORNIA HIGHWAYS AND PUBLIC WORKS magazines, I ran across this mid-1930s photo taken at Roseville on the SP. It shows what appears to be a G-50-6 or G-50-8 gondola. 

Also take note of the interesting automobiles and trucks. That brick building with the Co-Cola (to use a southernism) sign was still there when I was last in Roseville about 10 years ago.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff  🦆


Re: Technique for gluing .005" styrene sheet laminations w/o scalloping and warping

O Fenton Wells
 

Wowzer Andy, Thanks for that.  I'll give it a try
Fenton

On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 11:12 PM Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:
I found a method of glueing 0.005" styrene to a base styrene years ago which has stood the test of time. In pattern making, weakly attached laminations can often delaminate when pulling an RTV mold from the pattern in the mold box. Here is my solution in avoiding warping and sclloped edges. I have shared this to the list years ago, but it is simple.

I place the 0.005" styrene piece in the location for which it is destined to be attached. A light pencil mark around the perimeter allows me to brush on a somewhat thin coat of a slow drying styrene cement. I use liquid Testors from the bottle. The trick is to allow the Testors to flash off; immediately after the liquid dissapearing, place the 0.005" piece where it is intended to be.

What we are doing here is leaving just enough to bond, but not with any extra solvent. By doing it this way, no residual solvent is left behind attacking the 0.005" piece over time. Since no solvent was applied to the edge of the thin sheet of styrene, there is no scalloping which distorts the edges.

I do believe the slower evaporating solvents are necessary for this to work. No MEK, Tenax or Acetone, please! The bond is lifetime long and will not come unattached making this ideal for patterns which will go into a mold box.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 6:42:06 PM PST, Robert kirkham <rdkirkham@...> wrote:


I was looking at the .005" diagonal straps used on a recent single sheathed boxcar project - and noted that there were small divots in the surface of the straps.   Its an age-old problem when using thin styrene.   Yes, I know there are other materials out there, and one could instead use CA.

But I was wondering: are there any ways to improve my technique?  Or ways to dilute the strength of the glue so it works fine, but does't cause divots? 

Has anyone developed a tried and true reliable process?  

So far, I just use glazing putty to fix the problem.  Not an ideal solution!

Rob Kirkham



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Technique for gluing .005" styrene sheet laminations w/o scalloping and warping

Andy Carlson
 

I found a method of glueing 0.005" styrene to a base styrene years ago which has stood the test of time. In pattern making, weakly attached laminations can often delaminate when pulling an RTV mold from the pattern in the mold box. Here is my solution in avoiding warping and sclloped edges. I have shared this to the list years ago, but it is simple.

I place the 0.005" styrene piece in the location for which it is destined to be attached. A light pencil mark around the perimeter allows me to brush on a somewhat thin coat of a slow drying styrene cement. I use liquid Testors from the bottle. The trick is to allow the Testors to flash off; immediately after the liquid dissapearing, place the 0.005" piece where it is intended to be.

What we are doing here is leaving just enough to bond, but not with any extra solvent. By doing it this way, no residual solvent is left behind attacking the 0.005" piece over time. Since no solvent was applied to the edge of the thin sheet of styrene, there is no scalloping which distorts the edges.

I do believe the slower evaporating solvents are necessary for this to work. No MEK, Tenax or Acetone, please! The bond is lifetime long and will not come unattached making this ideal for patterns which will go into a mold box.

-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 6:42:06 PM PST, Robert kirkham <rdkirkham@...> wrote:


I was looking at the .005" diagonal straps used on a recent single sheathed boxcar project - and noted that there were small divots in the surface of the straps.   Its an age-old problem when using thin styrene.   Yes, I know there are other materials out there, and one could instead use CA.

But I was wondering: are there any ways to improve my technique?  Or ways to dilute the strength of the glue so it works fine, but does't cause divots? 

Has anyone developed a tried and true reliable process?  

So far, I just use glazing putty to fix the problem.  Not an ideal solution!

Rob Kirkham


Re: gluing .005" styrene sheet laminations

Rich C
 

Rob, I have used Canopy Glue on .005 styrene with good results, no melting, no deformities, no mess

Rich Christie


Re: F&C meat reefer prototypes

nyc3001 .
 

Tim,

There are photos of a completed model at this link. 

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/built-rtr-wilson-car-lines-wcl-funaro-1800129209

-Phil


gluing .005" styrene sheet laminations

Robert kirkham
 

I was looking at the .005" diagonal straps used on a recent single sheathed boxcar project - and noted that there were small divots in the surface of the straps.   Its an age-old problem when using thin styrene.   Yes, I know there are other materials out there, and one could instead use CA.

But I was wondering: are there any ways to improve my technique?  Or ways to dilute the strength of the glue so it works fine, but does't cause divots? 

Has anyone developed a tried and true reliable process?  

So far, I just use glazing putty to fix the problem.  Not an ideal solution!

Rob Kirkham


Hindsight 20/20 7.0 Virtual RPM

Ryan Mendell
 

The signup for the next Hindsight Virtual RPM is now active. 

Please go to speedwitchmedia.com to register for the event.

Ryan Mendell


Re: F&C meat reefer prototypes

O Fenton Wells
 

These are early F&C kits, so the chances of a photo are 2.....slim and none


On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 8:35 PM Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Photos show several different designs for Wilson 37 foot reefers, and there are more still
for the other owners. Does anyone have a photo of the completed F&C kit?


On 2/9/2021 5:09 PM, nyc3001 . wrote:

Fenton,

I don't own any of the kits, but they come with either WCLX, CRLX version, or Oscar Mayer decals.

The side and end castings appear the same for all of these.

-Phil



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: F&C meat reefer prototypes

Tim O'Connor
 


Photos show several different designs for Wilson 37 foot reefers, and there are more still
for the other owners. Does anyone have a photo of the completed F&C kit?


On 2/9/2021 5:09 PM, nyc3001 . wrote:

Fenton,

I don't own any of the kits, but they come with either WCLX, CRLX version, or Oscar Mayer decals.

The side and end castings appear the same for all of these.

-Phil



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: F&C meat reefer prototypes

O Fenton Wells
 

My guess is whoever manufactured the Wilson reefers would be a close fit. 
I’m getting ready to bash a bunch of 37 and 40 ft meat reefers and have been accumulating magazine articles by Martin Loftin, Greg Martin John Nerich and others from the late ‘80’s and early 90’s. 
Then Sunshine showed up and bashing lost favor. I still prefer bashing so I’m off to the meat reefer races
Fenton 


On Feb 9, 2021, at 7:45 PM, Douglas Harding <iowacentralrr@...> wrote:



The Rapido car is a specific prototype, built by General American between 1937-1941. Other 37’ meat reefers were built by other manufacturers with different features. And each meat packer had specific features they wanted in their cars. So lots of variety. Just ask the guys trying to figure out the Swift reefer fleet.

 

I don’t know what prototype F&C used for their early meat reefer, but they offered it with a number of different meat company decals. So generic at best.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2021 3:57 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] F&C meat reefer prototypes

 

Hi guys,

An early F&C kit was the 37' wood meat reefer. I was looking at images of it, and it seems to be a different prototype from the Rapido reefer (wider fascia below the roofline and perhaps a lower door).

Does anyone know what the prototype is?

Thanks,
Phil


Re: F&C meat reefer prototypes

Douglas Harding
 

The Rapido car is a specific prototype, built by General American between 1937-1941. Other 37’ meat reefers were built by other manufacturers with different features. And each meat packer had specific features they wanted in their cars. So lots of variety. Just ask the guys trying to figure out the Swift reefer fleet.

 

I don’t know what prototype F&C used for their early meat reefer, but they offered it with a number of different meat company decals. So generic at best.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2021 3:57 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] F&C meat reefer prototypes

 

Hi guys,

An early F&C kit was the 37' wood meat reefer. I was looking at images of it, and it seems to be a different prototype from the Rapido reefer (wider fascia below the roofline and perhaps a lower door).

Does anyone know what the prototype is?

Thanks,
Phil


Re: F&C meat reefer prototypes

nyc3001 .
 

Fenton,

I don't own any of the kits, but they come with either WCLX, CRLX version, or Oscar Mayer decals.

The side and end castings appear the same for all of these.

-Phil

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