Date   

Re: EJ&E USRA rebuilt box cars

Thomas Baker
 

​Ben,


Unfortunately, I do not have access to that book.  


Tom Baker


From: STMFC@... on behalf of Benjamin Hom b.hom@... [STMFC]
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2015 10:03 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] EJ&E USRA rebuilt box cars
 




Tom Baker asked:
"​Can someone recommend a brand of paint that has the tone of green accurate for the EJ&E rebuilt USRA box cars?"

Did you check Clark Propst's article in Speedwitch Media's Prototype Railroad Modeling, Volume One?
 
 
Ben Hom 



Re: W&LE PS welded box car (was Re: completing a Richard Hendrickson freight car)

Tim O'Connor
 

Al, it sure looks like it to me!

And speaking of those photos, can you identify the maker of the Hand Brake Wheel
(tip of the hat to Gene) on that car? I don't think I've ever seen a vertically-mounted
wheel like that before (or it's just an early version of something more familiar)

Tim O'Connor

There are photos of ACFX 30000 in the 1940 Car Builders Cyclopedia page 125,129,404.
> Could this be the prtotype for the series built for the WLE? 24000-24199.
> Al Smith
> Sonora CA


Re: Collinsville CT RPM

riverman_vt@...
 

    I went too but only had to endure the rain for half the time that Pierre did while driving back but the rain
has yet to stop, resulting in my driving in it again all day today. Hope we don't rival Texas.

    While there I looked for Bill Welch but soon gathered he was a "no show". Too bad as his FGEX clinic would be well received in Collinsville. As a clinic presenter myself, however, I'll leave the assessment of
the meet to someone else other than to note that I enjoyed it more than any previous RPM meets I have
attended or provided clinics for either in Collinsville or elsewhere.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: completing a Richard Hendrickson freight car

Allan Smith
 

There are photos of ACFX 30000 in the 1940 Car Builders Cyclopedia page 125,129,404. Could this be the prtotype for the series built for the WLE? 24000-24199.

Al Smith
Sonora CA


Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS box car

Andy Carlson
 




Garth wrote:
From: "Garth Groff sarahsan@... [STMFC]"
A number of years ago, someone made a few resin sides, ends and a roof for these cars. It wasn't a complete kit. He also did the stock car as well. I have a set of each, carefully preserved for retirement, mine I mean. He also offered one of the cupola cabooses rebuilt from these boxcars. I tried to buy one, but the fellow went out of business and returned my check.


***********
Folks-

I have one set of castings for one of these WP SS 40' box cars. An HO set w/o floor (the Tichy USRA underframe is close, especially if you make new cross-ties following the Al Armitage drawings in the MM article). Same parts as Garth's, made by the same guy.

Cast in gray tinted Devcon White 2-ton epoxy. Includes roof; A end; B end; two car sides. If anyone wants it for $45 (shipping to the 48 states incl.) contact me at
Thanks
-Andy Carlson











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Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

Bill Welch
 

I don't worry about where cars were routed for the most part.

Bill Welch


Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

Fred Jansz
 

Just read the Mainline Modeler article again.
The article shows pictures of a certain Mr. Charles C Loosi who pictured car 26059 (from the 1937-42 renumbering into 26001-26125). The other pix were made by 'Ski'; Mr. John Ryczkowski or came from his collection.
One pic shows the end of a car with stencelling: 'draft gear inspected sac 12-21-46.

Fred Jansz


Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

Fred Jansz
 

Bill, I posess copies of the official Pullman drawings from 1915-1916. Bought these a few years ago to start my brass business with.
The 15001-series car is a very interesting one, WP's landmark boxcar serving from 1916 to the end of WP itself in 1983. As Garth pointed out already, many other cars were built from these sturdy Pullman cars: cabooses, stockcars and a lot of MW cars.
What should've been my first model as a brass importer unfortunately became nothing but a plan because my publishing business went bankrupt and the money was gone. I had actually teamed up with a Korean brass manufacturer, met with them and sorted things out.
After this debacle I offered the drawings to the new Westerfield (since Sunset was out of business and Speedwitch too at that time) and Westerfield is now gathering information and researching if they will do the car in resin in the (near) future.
I paid good money for the drawings so I cannot hand them over also because I do not know how far Westerfield is with the preparation of the kit.
What I know is that Westerfield needs additional info on the roof, underbody and lettering of the cars.
If you need drawings of the car for a scratchbuiling project you might want to search ebay for a copy of the March 1990 Mainline Modeler. I could send you a jpg copy of these if you send me your email in a PM.
Plaster car 26123 in the WP book by Ski indeed has extra text under the WP medallion reading 'plaster car', then 2 lines I cannot read, then in caps: 'collapsible bulk heads'. It has four small hatches in the roof.
CSRM has stockcar 75842 to check out 1:1.
Also combination caboose WP403 was built from car 15716.
Hope this is of any help to you.
Fred Jansz
PS the MM article has a few pics of the original cars side & end and details.


Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

Jack Mullen
 

I don't have in-service photos either, but to add to Dave's suggestion, a number of these cars moved into MofW service and lasted past the end of the steam era in that role. At least one is preserved at Portola:
and you can also find a couple photos on Fallen Flags.  The MofW cars show more of the original boxcar structure than the cabooses do. Of course, if you're looking for revenue service P&L, this is no help.

Jack Mullen

 




Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Bill,

Yes, but those are probably all the plaster-service cars if they are in the 26001 series. I've never found out where the plaster cars were routed.

The first photo in the WESTERN PACIFIC PICTORIAL shows several lines of lettering below the herald on the door (most of WP's wooden boxcars had their heralds on the doors after the mid-1930s). The lettering is in several sizes. The largest line includes the word "bulk" and the following word is probably "plaster" or "gypsum". This is the only photo I've seen like this. The rest appear to have had rectangular metal plates right below the horizontal reinforcing brace, as you can see in the color photo I sent you the link for. Below that was a back square with some very small lettering near the top. You can just barely see this below the plate. I'm sure all this is restrictive loading/routing information.

A number of years ago, someone made a few resin sides, ends and a roof for these cars. It wasn't a complete kit. He also did the stock car as well. I have a set of each, carefully preserved for retirement, mine I mean. He also offered one of the cupola cabooses rebuilt from these boxcars. I tried to buy one, but the fellow went out of business and returned my check.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

On 6/1/15 4:09 PM, fgexbill@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Wow, thank you Garth! The 1953 ORER show 103 cars still in-service.


Bill Welch


Re: Airbrushing Acrylics - preshading

John F. Cizmar
 

The June issue of Model Railroader has an article, "A new look for a 'blue-box' car", that portrays this technique well.
John Cizmar 



From: "Andy Sperandeo asperandeo@... [STMFC]"
To: "STMFC@..." <STMFC@...>
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2015 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Airbrushing Acrylics - preshading

 
Tom Madden had a good suggestion, "Would it help to spray the model with body color first, then do the shading, then a final, lighter coat of body color?"

I've tried "preshading" techniques too, but I've found that many reds don't cover well enough without multiple coats, and there goes your preshading effect. When you get it right, you can use browns as well as black to give the steel components a rusty look.

So long,

Andy




Re: Airbrushing Acrylics - preshading

Andy Sperandeo
 

Tom Madden had a good suggestion, "Would it help to spray the model with body color first, then do the shading, then a final, lighter coat of body color?"

I've tried "preshading" techniques too, but I've found that many reds don't cover well enough without multiple coats, and there goes your preshading effect. When you get it right, you can use browns as well as black to give the steel components a rusty look.

So long,

Andy


Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

Bill Welch
 

Wow, thank you Garth! The 1953 ORER show 103 cars still in-service.

Bill Welch



Re: Might be a dumb question, but...

Tony Thompson
 

Garth Groff wrote:

 

Tony,
No, not a lapel pin. How about something for a vest, a patch maybe?  :~)


      Actually, Garth, I was referring to an actual badge which Arved Grass made up, and he and I distributed at Cocoa Beach this year. I showed a photo of it in my blog post about the meeting, which you might wish to view; it is at this link (scroll down to the bottom):


      It says in the blog that if you want one, contact Arved, but in fact they are all gone and there are no more.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: Might be a dumb question, but...

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Tony,

No, not a lapel pin. How about something for a vest, a patch maybe?  :~)

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

On 6/1/15 11:54 AM, Tony Thompson tony@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Jim Betz wrote:

> Darn it guys!!!,
>
> I try and try to ignore the way my friends deride me for being a
> member of STMFC ...
>
> Me: "I saw something on steam freight car last night ...".
> Them: "You mean those rivet counters - are you -actually- a
> member of that group?".
> Me: "Yes, I am ... and they aren't all -that- bad."
>
> ... and then here we are with a thread that is not about how
> many rivets there are but even about rivet spacing ... *Sigh*

Jim, let me dig around and see if I still have a lapel badge to give you, containing Richard Hendrickson's remark, "Rivets Count."

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history



Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Bill,

The original series was 15001-16000, built by Pullman in 1916. Most of these cars were converted to stock cars, cabooses and MOW cars before WWII, and photos are rare. The largest clutch to survive in near-original condition were renumbered 26001-26125 in 1937 and 1942. These were assigned to plaster service out of  Gerlich, Nevada. Most had moveable bulkheads, which made no difference to their external appearance, and a very few received roof hatches as well. There are two color photos of these cars on page 19 of Jim Eager's WESTERN PACIFIC COLOR GUIDE TO FREIGHT AND PASSENGER EQUIPMENT. Black-and-white photos, one showing the roof hatches (tiny), can be found on pages 116 and 161 of John Ryczkowski's WESTERN PACIFIC PICTORIAL.

I just found you a color shot online at: http://www.wplives.com/archives/freight/boxcars/boxcars40/26118.html . The original general arrangement diagram is at: http://www.wplives.com/diagrams/freight/1930/BC15001-16000.html . The car in plaster service is at: http://www.wplives.com/diagrams/freight/1947/BC26001-26125.html . The diagram for the handful of unconverted cars left in general service can be seen at: http://www.wplives.com/diagrams/freight/1947/BC8051-8055.html . It looks like the same drawing in all three cases, but it is probably the notes that you want anyway.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 6/1/15 11:36 AM, fgexbill@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

I am hoping some of western modelers here may have an in-service photo of the Western Pacific's 15001-16000 SS boxcar. (Might be 1501-1600 series instead) This is a relatively short in height car built in October 1916 with a straight U/F and Lumber Door.


Any help will be appreciated.

Bill Welch

 



Re: Airbrushing Acrylics - preshading

Bill Welch
 

Could you please post photos Charlie?

Bill Welch


Re: Airbrushing Acrylics - preshading

Tim O'Connor
 

Tom's method sounds more like what I've done -- base color, then lighter and
darker shades of the same color, so that the model prior to decals & weathering
is not entirely the same color. Plus it saves time. But prime coat colors can
affect the top coats, so I can see how "preshading" would work. Paints like
Accupaint & TruColor are more transparent than enamels like Scalecoat and
Floquil and the various acrylic enamels.

Tim O'Connor

Would it help to spray the model with body color first, then do the shading, then a final, lighter coat of body color? That way when you spray the final coat you can pay attention to the degree of shading you're retaining rather than worrying about coverage.

Haven't tried it, just a thought...

Tom Madden


Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Airbrushing Acrylics - preshading (UNCLASSIFIED)

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE

Tom;

You brought up an interesting point.

I was dissatisfied with the way several of my models turned out, and went back and looked at photos to see what went wrong. I finally decided that, on certain cars, the paint weathered differently than other cars, and the lettering even more so.

This lead me to pre-weather, or pre-shade as you put it, some cars before the lettering or weathering went down. This is especially visible on welded side cars, where you can "shade" the panels, letting the white lettering go on later and not be affected by the discoloration of the basic body paint.

The most difficult P&L job I have ever seen, for a car that I want to do, is a PRR X29B in the earliest white/silver and red "Merchandise Service" scheme, taken by Paul Winters. I call it the "Challenge Car". It is an incredible mix of weathering of body color, and lettering, and a perfect example on why you sometimes have to initially weather before you do anything else...

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 1:20 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] [STMFC] Re: Airbrushing Acrylics - preshading



Would it help to spray the model with body color first, then do the shading, then a final, lighter coat of body color? That way when you spray the final coat you can pay attention to the degree of shading you're retaining rather than worrying about coverage.




Haven't tried it, just a thought...




Tom Madden




Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE


Re: Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

Dave Nelson
 

Bill, I don’t have any myself (missed one off eBay the other day).

If you need reference photos for making a model take a close look at the WP “cabeese” that were converted from these boxcars.  Many were sold after the WP had no use for them and so there are many photos of these “cars” that will show you plenty of modeling detail.   There is one of these cars a couple of miles from my house… so they’re still out there to be viewed.  They won’t have the same ends of course, but a whole lot of each caboose remains original.

 

Dave Nelson

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 8:37 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Western Pacific 15001-16000 SS boxcar photos

 




I am hoping some of western modelers here may have an in-service photo of the Western Pacific's 15001-16000 SS boxcar. (Might be 1501-1600 series instead) This is a relatively short in height car built in October 1916 with a straight U/F and Lumber Door.

 

Any help will be appreciated.

Bill Welch

 




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