Date   

Re: ACC question

John Sykes III
 

The Loctite product described is designed for use on Delrin and other acetal plastics that are almost impossible to glue.  It works very well in my experience.  The primer is Loctite 770.  They recommend Loctite 401 ACC with it, but when my bottle of 401 dried-up I found that the primer works pretty well with other ACCs like ZAP.  It is rather toxic, so be careful with it.


-- John


ADMIN: Re: Re: Intermountain Kits-sporadic availability is CLOSED

Mikebrock
 

Tim O'Connor writes:

"Mark the sheriff must be asleep or maybe he's at the beach... but I don't think we're going to solve
any hobby or business problems here."

Asleep. Hard night last night.

Jim Betz says:

"At the risk of being tossed in the furthest back
cell in the Moderated Jail ..."

No problem. There isn't room back there. However we are opening a tent for the overflow. Oh, no AC in there you know. 90 today.

Al kresse says:

"I will take my 10 year old Eagle Rare and ice to jail."

Well, of course, we confiscate beverages...particularly those 10 years old.

Allen Ferguson writes elegently about his own business. Hmmm. Still against the rules. I think.

Now, the illegal thread about business practices is now closed. where is that ()*&#@^%@ key?

Mike Brock...Ever seen a battleship fire a round over the bow of a schooner? Yawn.


New Exact Rail HO Union Pacific Flat Car

reporterllc
 

Per Blaine at ExactRail:



"The new model is the GSC 42'-0 Flat Car or in Union Pacific circles, the F-50-15!

In 1951, the GSC 42'-0 Flat Car was received by the Union Pacific as kits from General Steel Castings (GSC.) These kits were assembled in Denver, CO and designated by the car class F-50-15. This car was purchased as a general service flat. However, some of these cars were re-classified into more specialized service, including TOFC.

The car bodies of GSC flats are cast in steel, which means the entire car body is a single piece. The result is that these cars are veritable battleships on rails, and many are in active MoW service today--63 years later!

ExactRail has produced an extraordinarily accurate of the GSC 42'-0 Flat Car! The model is equipped with full underbody detail and laser-etched wood decks!

The model will be available in 5 paint schemes.

1951 'As Delivered' Union Pacific Paint Scheme
1974 Union Pacific Repaint
Union Pacific #913123 MoW Paint Scheme
Union Pacific #913150 MoW Paint Scheme
Union Pacific #913243 MoW Paint Scheme

Pricing and availability will be announced soon! The GSC 42'-0 Flat Car is next out of the gate, and our release of this model will be soon!"


Re: Question on exNYC boxcar sold to Rutland - NOT!

Dennis Storzek
 




---In STMFC@..., <omahaduck@...> wrote :


"I have nothing against the NYC but I thought by the 1950's the single door 1916 DS car was no longer on the NYC as they were rebuilt to steel cars.

Do you know if there a source for DSS&A decals I could use for this car?"



No, unfortunately I don't. The SLHTS has a decal set for a gon that shows in stock:
SLHTS Online Store
It might be usable for the reporting mrks and number, but has the wrong style "modern" (post 1954) herald for the boxcar. The older herald said simply "THE SOUTH SHORE", and I don't see any decal sets that list it in white.

When I sold my kit, I also included the "Route Superior gateway for superior service" slogan, but I'm sure that not all the wood cars ever received it.

Here's a link to the page about the car preserved at the Mid-Continent Railway Museum, repainted in the common scheme:

Duluth South Shore & Atlantic #18052

 

Dennis Storzek

 


 


Re: ACC question

O Fenton Wells
 

I'll see what Lowes has tomorrow, Thanks Scott


On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 2:18 PM, 'Scott H. Haycock ' shhaycock@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Fenton

Loctite makes a superglue kit that comes with a tube of "activator" that you apply to both surfaces, wait 30 seconds, then apply the super glue. It is readily available at hardware and big box home centers that carry Loctite products. Auto parts stores probably have it as well.

Scott Haycock
Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm
ent


 


Recently and I thought in this site there was a message regarding a special ACC glue that would work on Kadee parts to plastic or resin.  I can't find it so if anyone can tell me an ACC glue that I can use to attach Kadee roofwalks and ladders to resin or plastic freight cars I would be very grateful.  I currently use contact cement thinned with lacquer thinner.  It works OK but a bit hard to stay within the lines if you know what I mean.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Fenton Wells






--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: Intermountain Kits-sporadic availability

Tony Thompson
 

Allen Ferguson wrote:

I think that sporadic availability is fine if the wait is in months, it means that they are still selling. The guys you gotta worry about are the ones selling 10 year old stock, they'll never re-run that stuff if it sells out. 


     Allen is right. Last time I heard Frank Angstead talking about this topic, he emphasized that they push all the plastic for their RTR cars in Colorado, then ship the sprues to China. They push a little extra to supply parts for sale, and for kits. That means that if parts happen to have run out for, say PFE R-40-10 cars, there won't be any until the next time they get into production for a shipment to China. THEN parts will be available again.
      I personally think griping about the availability minutiae from a manufacturer who DOES make parts and kits available is kind of pointless, not to say possibly counterproductive.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: ACC question

Scott H. Haycock
 

Fenton

Loctite makes a superglue kit that comes with a tube of "activator" that you apply to both surfaces, wait 30 seconds, then apply the super glue. It is readily available at hardware and big box home centers that carry Loctite products. Auto parts stores probably have it as well.

Scott Haycock
Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm
ent


 


Recently and I thought in this site there was a message regarding a special ACC glue that would work on Kadee parts to plastic or resin.  I can't find it so if anyone can tell me an ACC glue that I can use to attach Kadee roofwalks and ladders to resin or plastic freight cars I would be very grateful.  I currently use contact cement thinned with lacquer thinner.  It works OK but a bit hard to stay within the lines if you know what I mean.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Fenton Wells




Re: ACC question

O Fenton Wells
 

I've got some Canopy cement so I'll give it a try, thanks


On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 2:01 PM, RUTLANDRS@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
 

Fenton,
    Could be Dr. Mikes, Barge cement or canopy cement..
Good luck,
Chuck Hladik
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division
 
In a message dated 8/3/2014 1:27:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

Recently and I thought in this site there was a message regarding a special ACC glue that would work on Kadee parts to plastic or resin.  I can't find it so if anyone can tell me an ACC glue that I can use to attach Kadee roofwalks and ladders to resin or plastic freight cars I would be very grateful.  I currently use contact cement thinned with lacquer thinner.  It works OK but a bit hard to stay within the lines if you know what I mean.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Fenton Wells




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: ACC question

Charles Hladik
 

Fenton,
    Could be Dr. Mikes, Barge cement or canopy cement..
Good luck,
Chuck Hladik
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division
 

In a message dated 8/3/2014 1:27:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
 

Recently and I thought in this site there was a message regarding a special ACC glue that would work on Kadee parts to plastic or resin.  I can't find it so if anyone can tell me an ACC glue that I can use to attach Kadee roofwalks and ladders to resin or plastic freight cars I would be very grateful.  I currently use contact cement thinned with lacquer thinner.  It works OK but a bit hard to stay within the lines if you know what I mean.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Fenton Wells


Re: Question on exNYC boxcar sold to Rutland - NOT!

Benjamin Hom
 

Charlie Duckworth wrote:
"I have nothing against the NYC but I thought by the 1950's the single door 1916 DS car was no longer on the NYC as they were rebuilt to steel cars."

Mostly true, but there were a very small number of Lot 322-B survivors listed in the July 1950 ORER:
NYC 234100-234608, 3 cars
NYC 267053, 267098, 2 cars


Ben Hom


Those damn kits!

Clark Propst
 

Besides the fact that the majority of the hobby seems to be made up of “Checkbook” modelers nowadays, many hobbyist are just plain klutzes.
A friend and I made a road trip to the nearest hobby shop last week. They buy collections and have a used section where you can still find a kit of two now and then. My friend picked up a couple P2K kits for six bucks each and found an Intermountain red M&StL box car (flash sells) ‘sort of’ assembled. He haggled for a price of a couple bucks.
After returning home I got a call from him asking if it was me that said you could break apart a super glued model by freezing it? I said I’ve read that, but never tried it. He did and it worked. You know how the ends of the IM 37 car are keyed with a different number of hole/peg combos on each end. Well, the klutz that tried to put this thing together super glued on the wrong end. To correct his mistake he snipped the pegs off the other end and super glued the brake rigging on wrong way round. While here for Monday Night Ops my friend asked if I had a spare roof. Seems his klutz friend had drill (something like) 1/4” holes for the running board pegs and didn’t get the roof snapped completely in before pouring on a tube of super glue. Oh, and the doors were on crooked too. Don’t know if the ladders were glued on, but hopefully he gave up before getting that far...
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Can we stop doing this? Thank you!

water.kresse@...
 

I have just been getting on to the list lately and have been deleting without even opening up the messages.
 
I will take my 10 year old Eagle Rare and ice to jail.
 
                 Al Kresse


Re: NYC ARA Boxcars

John Sykes III
 

Guize:


Aha!  Last night when I tried to find the other threads on this issue, the only one that came up was one in on car 163277 in March 2014.  I repeated the same search this morning and found a lot more in the archives.  The 2010 thread when the BLI models were first announced answered all my questions, although I will download Richard Hendrickson's article in RMJ if Trainlife is ever resuscitated.


But I'm still thinking about taking two of the BLI cars and putting wood running boards on one and the US Gypsum running boards on the other just for variety and a conversation starter on my long-planned PRR layout (I finally bought a 2-car layout room with a 3 bedroom house attached - closing is September 12th!).  Of course, without photos of specific cars, that will leave me open to criticism here ;-)


-- John


Re: Question on exNYC boxcar sold to Rutland - NOT!

Charlie Duckworth
 

Dennis
I have nothing against the NYC but I thought by the 1950's the single door 1916 DS car was no longer on the NYC as they were rebuilt to steel cars.

Do you know if there a source for DSS&A decals I could use for this car?

Charlie Duckworth


ACC question

O Fenton Wells
 

Recently and I thought in this site there was a message regarding a special ACC glue that would work on Kadee parts to plastic or resin.  I can't find it so if anyone can tell me an ACC glue that I can use to attach Kadee roofwalks and ladders to resin or plastic freight cars I would be very grateful.  I currently use contact cement thinned with lacquer thinner.  It works OK but a bit hard to stay within the lines if you know what I mean.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Fenton Wells


Can we stop doing this?

Jim Betz
 

Hi guys,

At the risk of being tossed in the furthest back
cell in the Moderated Jail ...

We seem to spend a -lot- of time on this list
talking about stuff that is 'on the fringes of being
on topic'. Can we just ignore the trends in the
hobby instead of spending so much band width
on "grumbling about how good we all had it way
back before we understood what we should be
doing"?

I'M as guilty of this as anyone else so don't take
this as anything other than my saying "we have
found the enemy and he is us" (apologies to Pogo).
Heck, even this very post is 'off topic' and shouldn't
have ever been posted (because I'm not a moderator).
It just seems like we've been spending a lot more
time talking about what we should be doing than
actually doing it. A simple post about something or
other expands into 20 or 30 posts that are, pretty
much, all saying the same thing.

I asking/begging ... please think about what you are
going to respond to and whether or not what you are
saying is in anyway going to change anything or
anyone's mind.

Can we just get back to steam era freight cars?

And stay there?

- anticipating that I'll be spending some time on
only stale bread and tap water ... I've taken the
time to squirrel away some Fritos and Long
Boards and will now return you to your regularly
scheduled programming ... Jim Betz


Re: Drawbar in Railroad Terminology

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Only in the interest of accuracy, the couplers you refer to as patented are
spelled with two n's, as in Janney.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2014 9:46 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Drawbar in Railroad Terminology





As best I can tell, in the 19th century, the word "coupler" denoted an
automatic device, while "drawbar" was the more technical term for a link and
pin style device. Hence"Miller couplers", "Janey couplers", but "Link & Pin
drawheads". By the way, the term "Janey" was troublesome since it referred
to a pattened device... and the Master Car Builder's Assocation did not like
to endorese a pattened soultion...

Randy Hees


the Trainlife site was non-functional

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 


Hi List Members,
 
I recall some weeks back there was discussion that the Trainlife site was non-functional.
 
Bob's link below to the Trainlife article does not work for me - does it work for anyone else? Is Trainlife still out of commission (Traindeath?!?) ???
 
  -  Claus Schlund
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 8:37 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: NYC ARA Boxcars

Some notes from the last discussion in March of 2014.

NYC Spec. 486 Boxcars

 

Suppose I want six of the NYC steel boxcars modeled by BLI. For 1951 - 53 how many should be 7/8 ends and how many should be Dreadnaught?

 

I suspect the answer to my question is in RPCyc21, which I do not yet have. – Jeff Aley

 

In the October 2006, MRC, Essential Freight Car article #34, NYC USRA design box cars, there is a table that lists all of the cars, and their similarities/differences. - Aaron Gjermundson

 

That information is also in the roster in my March, 2007 Railmodel Journal article on these cars. The only Spec. 486 box cars that had Dreadnaught ends were those built in 1927: 1,000 cars for the Big Four (later absorbed into the NYC roster), 50 cars for the Peoria & Eastern, and 1,000 cars for the NYC itself. So that's 2,050 cars out of almost 21,000, approximately one in ten. All the other cars had 7-8 corrugated ends. - Richard Hendrickson


Roster NYC Specification 486 Box Car from March, 2007 Railmodel Journal

Lots 539-B, 560-B and 563-B had Dreadnaught ends

TrainLife - March 2007 - Page 43

 

By the summer of 1946, most of the NYC’s USRA design steel box cars had new roofs - the rebuilding process started before WW II. – Richard Hendrickson mar-2014 STMFC Steam era freight car discussion group. The time period covered will be from 1900-1960.

 

And there is much more in the STMFC archives ...

Bob Witt


Re: Question on exNYC boxcar sold to Rutland - NOT!

Dennis Storzek
 




---In STMFC@..., <b.hom@...> wrote :


"Armand is correct.  The NYCS cars had 7/7 inverse Murphy ends; the Rutland cars, BUILT NEW FOR THE RUTLAND AND NOT SECONDHAND NYC CARS, had 6/8 ends."

... Which I built patterns for and produced for the kits sold with Rutland decals. If you really have something against the NYC. you could finish it as a Duluth South Shore & Atlantic car, the DSS&A had 100 ex-NYC auto cars, bought in the mid thirties. The DSS&A subsequently rebuilt some as single door boxcars, which then looked identical to the NYC boxcars. Both configurations were mixed in the 18000 series.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Intermountain Kits-sporadic availability

Tim O'Connor
 


Mark the sheriff must be asleep or maybe he's at the beach... but I don't think we're going to solve
any hobby or business problems here. You clearly don't know anything about the dynamics of the
resin kit market or the creative or manufacturing issues involved in producing these kits or you would
not be so free with the "advice" on what other people should do to earn your approval.

As for Intermountain kits I would look into whether the tooling is still in the US or if it is in China. When
Intermountain was started, they did injection molding in the USA, so there was plenty of stock material
for kits. As manufacturers have sent tooling to China, it now takes almost as much effort to release a
kit as to release an RTR model. And then there are issues like Athearn faces with some of their more
recent freight cars being produced in 9, 10, or MORE physically different variations! If they offer only one
or two undecs, that's not enough, but if they offer every version, consumers are at a loss -- What is the
correct kit to buy?

As Pierre says if you think you can do better, why not try it?

Tim O'Connor



But as an economist will point out it is an elastic market. Manufactures seem to fight to have the highest prices these days yet sales seem to be in free fall. Its a hobby and buyers can sit out of the market if I don't like the price, buying food well not so much.
 
Mark Rickert
 
All of this merchandise is market driven. If kits, paint and decals sold briskly more would be available.