Date   
Re: Diagrams: PFE Refrigerator Cars

mel perry
 

bob:
i.notice that none of the rebuilds or the
40's are included?
mel perry

On Sat, Feb 1, 2020, 9:42 AM Bob Chaparro via Groups.Io <chiefbobbb=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

Diagrams: PFE Refrigerator Cars

The diagrams below are of five classes of PFE refrigerator cars from Don Stack's Utah Rails website. These diagrams specify the general dimensions of the cars.

Bob Chaparro

Moderator

Railroad Citrus Industry Modeling Group

https://groups.io/g/RailroadCitrusIndustryModelingGroup

++++

R-30-3

https://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails/Union-Pacific-Equip-Diagrams/OSL-1926-Freight-Cars/i-LkrgpZX/A

R-30-7

https://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails/Union-Pacific-Equip-Diagrams/OSL-1926-Freight-Cars/i-WhWbhb8/A

R-30-8

https://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails/Union-Pacific-Equip-Diagrams/OSL-1926-Freight-Cars/i-TJPDPFG/A

R-30-9

https://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails/Union-Pacific-Equip-Diagrams/OSL-1926-Freight-Cars/i-4MHScPH/A

R-30-10

https://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails/Union-Pacific-Equip-Diagrams/OSL-1926-Freight-Cars/i-5Hf89WX/A

A complete set of diagrams for a variety of freight cars is on this link:

https://donstrack.smugmug.com/UtahRails/Union-Pacific-Equip-Diagrams/OSL-1926-Freight-Cars/

Re: Diagrams: PFE Refrigerator Cars

Tony Thompson
 

Bob Chaparro wrote:

Diagrams: PFE Refrigerator Cars

The diagrams below are of five classes of PFE refrigerator cars from Don Stack's Utah Rails website. These diagrams specify the general dimensions of the cars.


      It is important to recognize that all five classes in this list, R-30-3 and R-30-7 through R-30-10, are classes that were designed but NOT built.

Tony Thompson



Diagrams: PFE Refrigerator Cars

Bob Chaparro
 

Re: Union Tank Car Co. UTLX 17441 a “squat”

O Fenton Wells
 

Impressive Lester, great job on a difficult build
Fenton

On Sat, Feb 1, 2020 at 9:46 AM Dave Boss <daveboss1976@...> wrote:
Really enjoyed your blog. Great job on the X3. This car is one that I really need as I 'm modeling the oil industry in my area. I have just finished working on an 8000 gal ACF tank car myself, and decided to bend brass wire to for the hand rail as well. I had nothing to work with so I bent the hand rail ,free hand to use with the Precision Scale stanchions. This really discouraged me from trying this again. Your blog however renewed my interest in making hand rails in the future. I didn't realize they include a jig in the sunshine tank car kits. Unfortunately I have no Sunshine tank car kits to acquire one of those jigs. Dose anyone know if there is a jig available to make these handrails?

Dave 

On Sat, Feb 1, 2020 at 7:32 AM Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote:

I have completed the build of Sunshine Models, kit 62.2, a Union Tank Car Company (UTLX) “squat”  or “short” 8,000 gallon tank car I numbered 17441.  If you are interested the build of this “squat” UTLX tank car which includes installing Precision Scale, #32110, handrail stanchions, photos and writeup of the build process including paint and weathering are now available on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:

 

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/


Lester Breuer



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...

Re: Union Tank Car Co. UTLX 17441 a “squat”

Dave Boss
 

Really enjoyed your blog. Great job on the X3. This car is one that I really need as I 'm modeling the oil industry in my area. I have just finished working on an 8000 gal ACF tank car myself, and decided to bend brass wire to for the hand rail as well. I had nothing to work with so I bent the hand rail ,free hand to use with the Precision Scale stanchions. This really discouraged me from trying this again. Your blog however renewed my interest in making hand rails in the future. I didn't realize they include a jig in the sunshine tank car kits. Unfortunately I have no Sunshine tank car kits to acquire one of those jigs. Dose anyone know if there is a jig available to make these handrails?

Dave 

On Sat, Feb 1, 2020 at 7:32 AM Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote:

I have completed the build of Sunshine Models, kit 62.2, a Union Tank Car Company (UTLX) “squat”  or “short” 8,000 gallon tank car I numbered 17441.  If you are interested the build of this “squat” UTLX tank car which includes installing Precision Scale, #32110, handrail stanchions, photos and writeup of the build process including paint and weathering are now available on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:

 

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/


Lester Breuer

Union Tank Car Co. UTLX 17441 a “squat”

Lester Breuer
 

I have completed the build of Sunshine Models, kit 62.2, a Union Tank Car Company (UTLX) “squat”  or “short” 8,000 gallon tank car I numbered 17441.  If you are interested the build of this “squat” UTLX tank car which includes installing Precision Scale, #32110, handrail stanchions, photos and writeup of the build process including paint and weathering are now available on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:

 

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/


Lester Breuer

Re: Vague question about a gondola

 

Which gondola kit? Tangent have done 3 different ones...

Colin ‘t Hart
Frösön, Sweden

Re: Weathering Couplers

Andy Carlson
 

"Hot"Lacquer Thinner, by another name is available in California. It is called Acetone, and auto body shops have used it for decades for thinning lacquer base primer as it dries real quickly. It is too hot for color service work.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

On Friday, January 31, 2020, 5:04:05 PM PST, John Sykes III via Groups.Io <johnsykesiii@...> wrote:



P.S.  You can't buy "hot" lacquer thinner in CA so I guess you have to drive out to Las Vegas to get some (>88% VOCs).  Here in FL, anything goes.  Xylenes (xylol) works good too for a thinner.  I thnk DioSol was mainly xylenes and toluene.

Re: Weathering Couplers

John Sykes III
 

I use the same technique as Ron.  A few things.  First, get the low-tack painters' tape.  It is green or purple (I forget which) and comes off very easily.  Second, I use either Floquil Rust, Rust #2 or Scalecoat II "Orange Peel" none of these three paints are currently available.  Mix it 50:50 with a hot lacquer thinner and spay on the couplers.

They dry extremely quickly, so you can "untape" them (if that is a word) in less than 5 minutes.  I brush paint the uncoupling pin with engine black and add about 1/32" - 1"16" of Platinum mist at the tip to represent the "monkey fist".  I put them on the car THEN do my weathering of the car using mainly grimy black or roof brown (I am modeling the PRR, so the more the merrier) diluted about 10:1 with the hot lacquer thinner (that is 10 parts thinner to 1 part paint).  That's typical PRR weathering for you!  I use to use only grimy black, rust and RR Grime but Steve Hoxie got me to use the roof brown.

-- John

P.S.  You can't buy "hot" lacquer thinner in CA so I guess you have to drive out to Las Vegas to get some (>88% VOCs).  Here in FL, anything goes.  Xylenes (xylol) works good too for a thinner.  I thnk DioSol was mainly xylenes and toluene.

L&N Shipper guide

Ted Schnepf
 

Hello Everyone,

The Louisville and Nashville,  is my first guide covering part of the southeastern US.  You can see a photo of the cover below.

It covers the Louisville and Nashville RR, all the way from Illinois and Ohio to Florida and Louisiana, and all states in between.  There are only two dates in the book, with the L&N map being dated 1939, so am guessing a per war publication date of 1940. The book has 163 pages, with a comb binding, so it opens flat for easy use.

The book is produced by Reynolds & Reynolds (printing) of Dayton, Oh.  They have published several other books I sell, such as, UP, CNW, RI, and Milwaukee.  The industries are listed by type, and then by state and town in alphabetical order.  This L&N book seems to be more elaborate with a larger forward section, explaining industries along the L&N.  There is also 6 pages listing LCL routes.

The book sells for $34.95. plus $5.00 shipping if needed.  It is not on my website yet.  Contact me off list to order any of the shippers guides.  there are now twenty one titles.


Ted Schnepf
126 Will Scarlet,
Elgin, Ill. 60120


847=697-5353


----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Ted Schnepf <tedschnepf5@...>
To: "railsunl@..." <railsunl@...>
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2020, 09:38:53 AM CST
Subject:

Re: Vague question about a gondola

Jeff
 

I should correct myself - the G43 is too new for this list. 


On Fri, Jan 31, 2020 at 3:00 PM Jeff via Groups.Io <jeffshultz=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
The question at this point would be:

"Is the model a Bethlehem 70-ton riveted drop-end gondola, a PRR/PC Shops G43 Series gondola, or an ACF 70-ton welded drop-end gondola? "

All of them have been released by Tangent as undec kits. 

On Fri, Jan 31, 2020 at 11:25 AM Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote:
A friend bought an undecorated Tangent gondola kit. He would like to paint for something other than what Tangent has done. Anyone know of any? I should say any there was decals available for?

CW Propst



--
Jeff Shultz
http://www.shultzinfosystems.com
A railfan approaches a grade crossing hoping that there will be a train.



--
Jeff Shultz
http://www.shultzinfosystems.com
A railfan approaches a grade crossing hoping that there will be a train.

Re: Vague question about a gondola

Jeff
 

The question at this point would be:

"Is the model a Bethlehem 70-ton riveted drop-end gondola, a PRR/PC Shops G43 Series gondola, or an ACF 70-ton welded drop-end gondola? "

All of them have been released by Tangent as undec kits. 

On Fri, Jan 31, 2020 at 11:25 AM Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote:
A friend bought an undecorated Tangent gondola kit. He would like to paint for something other than what Tangent has done. Anyone know of any? I should say any there was decals available for?

CW Propst



--
Jeff Shultz
http://www.shultzinfosystems.com
A railfan approaches a grade crossing hoping that there will be a train.

Vague question about a gondola

David
 

I assume this is the Bethlehem mill gon? I expect there are a number of B&O paint schemes they haven't done yet.

David Thompson

Vague question about a gondola

Clark Propst
 

A friend bought an undecorated Tangent gondola kit. He would like to paint for something other than what Tangent has done. Anyone know of any? I should say any there was decals available for?

CW Propst

Offered: Sunshine Resin SP B-50-24 Black Overnight lettering box car kit

Andy Carlson
 

Hello-

Offering for sale; I have a new, never removed from box HO Sunshine Models kit #32.1 S.P. B-50-24 Black Overnight lettering 40' box car kit.

Offered for $55 and I pay shipping. It will be Kraft wrapped before mailing. Has the unique for SP Youngstown Steel "Overnight" steel door.

I accept checks and money orders. With a small fee PayPal is welcomed. Contact me off-list (Please) for details at <midcentury@...>
Thanks,
-Andy Carlson, Ojai, CA.

Re: Weathering Couplers

Mont Switzer
 

And if a coupler should become sticky there is always MEK or lacquer thinner.

 

Montford L. Switzer

President

Switzer Tank Lines, Inc.

Fall Creek Leasing, LLC.

mswitzer@...

(765) 836-2914

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of mopacfirst
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2020 9:25 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Weathering Couplers

 

I just paint them.

I keep an inventory of Kadee 158 couplers in three colors - black, boxcar red and rust.  The painting is done by placing x number of couplers on one edge of a strip of masking tape, bottom of the shank firmly pressed against the tape.  Then I fold the tape lengthwise over the whisker side, pressing lightly.  I have not done a destructive test as to whether that whisker could be pulled out of its mount, so I don't take chances and only lightly press the tape against that side.  Then I take them out to the paint stand.

Sometimes I'll drop a pair of couplers of the appropriate color into a kit box when I'm first figuring out what paint and lettering the car should get.  Even with B&W photos of the prototype, if you have a good end view you can often tell what color the couplers should be.  But as a default, older cars (from my perspective of 1960-62) often have the couplers painted the same color as the car body.  Cars that have their original builder paint scheme, by that era, often were unpainted (rust color).  The mandate to leave couplers unpainted so as to allow examination for defects came later.

In recent years, I have painted most underframes black if that's the appropriate color.  I'll mount an assembled Kadee 262 coupler box before painting, then usually install the couplers after the paint has cured.  The car body may or may not have been finished by that time, but I've often painted the body separately if it's a house car.  Gons and flats where there is a concealed weight obviously get a different technique.  Bottom line is I don't treat the couplers delicately with regard to painting, and no harm seems to come.

I might also paint the couplers along with the car, if the underframe and body are all the same color.

In all cases, I use the Kadee coupler pliers and bend the pin upward slightly, and check to be sure the spring is in place, before painting.  I do apply just a light coat of paint.  I rarely if ever find couplers frozen by the paint.  I did occasionally find that when I did brush painting of couplers.  On rare occasions I might need to apply a brush coat of paint, say on cars I picked up completely built by someone else, and in that case I'll gingerly do a little highlighting on the coupler body and knuckle top and sides.

Ron Merrick

Re: Weathering Couplers

mopacfirst
 

I just paint them.

I keep an inventory of Kadee 158 couplers in three colors - black, boxcar red and rust.  The painting is done by placing x number of couplers on one edge of a strip of masking tape, bottom of the shank firmly pressed against the tape.  Then I fold the tape lengthwise over the whisker side, pressing lightly.  I have not done a destructive test as to whether that whisker could be pulled out of its mount, so I don't take chances and only lightly press the tape against that side.  Then I take them out to the paint stand.

Sometimes I'll drop a pair of couplers of the appropriate color into a kit box when I'm first figuring out what paint and lettering the car should get.  Even with B&W photos of the prototype, if you have a good end view you can often tell what color the couplers should be.  But as a default, older cars (from my perspective of 1960-62) often have the couplers painted the same color as the car body.  Cars that have their original builder paint scheme, by that era, often were unpainted (rust color).  The mandate to leave couplers unpainted so as to allow examination for defects came later.

In recent years, I have painted most underframes black if that's the appropriate color.  I'll mount an assembled Kadee 262 coupler box before painting, then usually install the couplers after the paint has cured.  The car body may or may not have been finished by that time, but I've often painted the body separately if it's a house car.  Gons and flats where there is a concealed weight obviously get a different technique.  Bottom line is I don't treat the couplers delicately with regard to painting, and no harm seems to come.

I might also paint the couplers along with the car, if the underframe and body are all the same color.

In all cases, I use the Kadee coupler pliers and bend the pin upward slightly, and check to be sure the spring is in place, before painting.  I do apply just a light coat of paint.  I rarely if ever find couplers frozen by the paint.  I did occasionally find that when I did brush painting of couplers.  On rare occasions I might need to apply a brush coat of paint, say on cars I picked up completely built by someone else, and in that case I'll gingerly do a little highlighting on the coupler body and knuckle top and sides.

Ron Merrick

Re: Weathering Couplers

Pete Steinmetz
 

Bob:

I use a "Rust" color paint pen from a military hobby shop. There are quite a few manufacturers.  Close enough for Rust/Dark Brown color looks fine.

Pete Steinmetz

Re: Book of historical drawings; is it worth scanning?

Jeff Eggert
 

I don't know if there would be anything like those castings in this group.  Lots of levers, brackets, tanks bands and the ever vague "steel details" to name a few.  Some drawings do reference a builder's drawing number.  These aren't really cataloged, just a drawing number at this point.  There has been a thought to put them out for online viewing, but it would be more of a treasure hunt as we don't have anyone available in our archives group to populate other fields of interest.

Jeff Eggert

Re: HO Scale Freight Car Trucks by Richard Hendrickson

Tony Thompson
 

Steve Hoxie wrote:

In the May 2013 Model Railroad Hobbyist Richard Hendrickson had a great article discussing freight car trucks, available here:

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2013-05-may/freight-trucks-1900-1960

At the end of the article is a link to his HO SCALE FREIGHT CAR TRUCKS list, however the link no longer works. I know his intent was to update the list as necessary and that was done at least once. The list I downloaded several years ago is dated April 2014.

      I posted Richard's last update to this article on Google Drive. Here is the link:


Tony Thompson