Date   

Re: Ford Auto Part Shipments

Gary Roe
 

Jack,

You are correct; but in the field, the name was sometimes reversed.

gary roe
quincy, illinois

_____

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Jack
Wyatt
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 12:40 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Ford Auto Part Shipments




<< These were called the Fast Ford Trains.>>

I hate to quibble, but I seem to remember the names as "Ford Fast".

Jack Wyatt


Re: AB Brake system on Type 27 tank cars

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@..., "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

I am about finished redetailing and upgrading an InterMountian Type 27 u/f. I am using a Grandt Line Cylinder and AB Valve. I am doing the setup with the valve sitting over the Reservoir. In looking at an AC&F builder's Photo using this set up it appears the Valve was not merely turned over and mounted, but if I can believe what I see, the valve used for this setup was a mirror image of the one mounted under a car. Obvious I am not going to be able to model this look but I am going to have to meditate on how to fit the Dirt Collector, and still have the piping more or less connect where it should. In the more typical mounting, the Dirt Collector orientation does not block the mounting holes for the pipe connections.

Another hard day in the Car Shop.

Bill Welch
Bill,

It's not a mirror image, it is exactly the same as the ones that mount under the car. The issue is that the prototype valves don't have a huge mounting pin, the center portion of the valve, called the pipe bracket, is just flat top and bottom. with holes cored in the corners for mounting bolts. So, instead of mounting the valve under the car with the top of the pipe bracket bolted tight to the car framing, the whole assembly is mounted on top of the framing, with the bottom of the pipe bracket bolted down tight. I deal with this all the time with Accurail ;art sets; boxcar valves have the peg coming out of the top, while hopper sets have the mounting peg coming out of the bottom of the valve.

What you'll need to do is clip the pin off flush, file the top of the pipe bracket flat, and add some bolt head detail to the top corners.

Gene Green's brake equipment clinic handout had some photos, and I thought it was on this site somewhere, but I can't find it. Here's a pictorial view of a steam era AB valve, front and back, looking from the top:

http://armytransportation.tpub.com/TM-55-203/TM-55-2030077im.jpg

This is the side you'll see on your tank car, the same side that is tight against the floor on a boxcar.

Dennis


Re: Ford Auto Part Shipments

C J Wyatt
 

<< These were called the Fast Ford Trains.>>

I hate to quibble, but I seem to remember the names as "Ford Fast".

Jack Wyatt


Re: 10'6" 4/5 Dreadnaught ends

William Keene <wakeene@...>
 

Hello Group,

Are either of the B-4 or B-5 class box cars available as kits with either the 4/5 or 5/5 dreadnaught ends? I have done a brief -- and I confess, still half asleep -- search and have come up empty. Thanks for any guidance this group can provide.

Cheers and Happy Modeling,
Bill Keene
Irvine, CA



On Feb 17, 2013, at 12:54 PM, "David" <jaydeet2001@...> wrote:

--- In STMFC@..., "Earl Tuson" wrote:

Can anyone add to this list of taller box cars with 4/5 Dreadnaught ends?
N&W's first orders for B-4 and B-5 cars had 4/5 ends with a 10'4" ih. Later orders had a 5/5 end with the top rib and darts clipped.

B-4
http://spec.lib.vt.edu/imagebase/norfolksouthern/F1/NS3242.JPG
http://spec.lib.vt.edu/imagebase/norfolksouthern/F1/NS3245.JPG

B-5
http://spec.lib.vt.edu/imagebase/norfolksouthern/full/NS2911.jpeg
http://spec.lib.vt.edu/imagebase/norfolksouthern/full/NS2897.jpeg

David Thompson



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

Michael Watnoski
 

I think that heptanes can be found in lighter fluid. This is probably an easy source to try first.

Michael

On 2/18/2013 12:27 PM, Don Burn wrote:
It appears Bestine is heptanes, see if there is a supplier of that locally,
such as hardware or home improvement store.

Don Burn


-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Dean
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 12:24 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

I don't own a media blaster, only an air brush. I expect the media blaster
would be more expensive than a big can of Bestine...
I've found a store (Dick Blick) that probably carried 4 oz cans of Bestine,
but it's 2 1/2 hours away... Or I can pay shipping, $4 for the can, $10
shipping... that's almost what I could get the big can for!

Dean Payne

--- In STMFC@..., "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:
What about media blasting it with Baking Soda?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., Tom Vanwormer <robsmom@> wrote:
Dean,
Use your ultrasonic cleaner with a diluted 10 to 1 mixture of
SuperClean (available at Walmart & auto stores.

Tom VanWormer


ken_olson54022 wrote:


I would suspect that you could go back to Micheal's, read the
caution information on the label to find out what's in there then
go to a hardware or paint store and get something that will do the
job for a lot less money.
Example: Fingernail polish remover = acetone.

Ken Olson

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>, "Dean"
<1payne1@> wrote:
I have two of the underframes, and I've heard that Bestine
rubber
cement thinner is the best way to clean the waxy residue off. I've
been trying to think of other ways to clean them... and finally
broke down and went to Michael's yesterday to pick up some Bestine.
But...
it was $17 a pint! I'm thinking this may be my only chance I'll
ever use Bestine... But I was willing to spend maybe $5, not $17.
What other methods work for cleaning Shapeways parts prior to
gluing/painting?
Dean Payne




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

Bruce Smith
 

Dean,

Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew (oops wrong hobby!). The issue, as noted last week when we ordered these, is the wax that is used as a support. Wax... ok... what cleans wax? Detergent and hot water might. If mine were here I'd probably start with concentrated DAWN in hot water. In fact, I just Googled "shapeways cleaning" and found a comment that someone used 50/50 Simple Green and DAWN succesfully. If that didn't work I'd move on to degreasers (wax being a hydrocarbon). That Superclean stuff recommended for the U/S cleaner is sold at WallyWorld in a foaming formula and you can use the rest to clean your car, stove, grill etc... Now, it might eat up the casting so tread carefully, but it is one idea. Friends have ultrasonic cleaners (I found one at work!)... lots of cheap solutions. Experiment and report back (or I will as soon as mine arrives)!

Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

__

/ &#92;

__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________

|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |

| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||

|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|

| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0

On Feb 18, 2013, at 11:19 AM, Dean wrote:

I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner... and I suspect getting one would cost more than a can of Bestine!
I had no idea it was going to be such an issue to get these cleaned. If so, I wonder why they don't clean them at the source? The hassle and cost of using these frames is going up... I wonder if I shouldn't have just carried through with my idea of scratchbuilding them (but the saddles would be complicated to do correctly, and have them sturdy enough for use).

Dean Payne


Re: Ford Auto Part Shipments

Rick Jesionowski
 

In the sixties and seventies, the routing to CA for Ford Auto Parts was the DT&I to Delta, OH, WAB from Delta to Kansas City, Then it varied with the UP, Rock Island, and MP connecting with the D&RGW and WP to Milpitas, CA or UP direct to LA. Also dropped a lot of cars at the Kansas City Ford Plant. These were called the Fast Ford Trains. The C&NW, MILW and SP contributed cars to these pools also.

Also, the Twin Cities Ford Truck plant was served by the DT&I, AA, Car Ferry to the GB&W, BN at Winona. The Ann Arbor car ferries were modified to take the 86' Hi-Cubes, but a lot of other parts were sent in 60' and 50' Boxcars.

Rick Jesionowski


Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

Don Burn
 

It appears Bestine is heptanes, see if there is a supplier of that locally,
such as hardware or home improvement store.

Don Burn

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Dean
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 12:24 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

I don't own a media blaster, only an air brush. I expect the media blaster
would be more expensive than a big can of Bestine...
I've found a store (Dick Blick) that probably carried 4 oz cans of Bestine,
but it's 2 1/2 hours away... Or I can pay shipping, $4 for the can, $10
shipping... that's almost what I could get the big can for!

Dean Payne

--- In STMFC@..., "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

What about media blasting it with Baking Soda?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., Tom Vanwormer <robsmom@> wrote:

Dean,
Use your ultrasonic cleaner with a diluted 10 to 1 mixture of
SuperClean (available at Walmart & auto stores.

Tom VanWormer


ken_olson54022 wrote:



I would suspect that you could go back to Micheal's, read the
caution information on the label to find out what's in there then
go to a hardware or paint store and get something that will do the
job for a lot less money.
Example: Fingernail polish remover = acetone.

Ken Olson

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>, "Dean"
<1payne1@> wrote:

I have two of the underframes, and I've heard that Bestine
rubber
cement thinner is the best way to clean the waxy residue off. I've
been trying to think of other ways to clean them... and finally
broke down and went to Michael's yesterday to pick up some Bestine.
But...
it was $17 a pint! I'm thinking this may be my only chance I'll
ever use Bestine... But I was willing to spend maybe $5, not $17.
What other methods work for cleaning Shapeways parts prior to
gluing/painting?

Dean Payne








------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

Dean Payne
 

I don't own a media blaster, only an air brush. I expect the media blaster would be more expensive than a big can of Bestine...
I've found a store (Dick Blick) that probably carried 4 oz cans of Bestine, but it's 2 1/2 hours away... Or I can pay shipping, $4 for the can, $10 shipping... that's almost what I could get the big can for!

Dean Payne

--- In STMFC@..., "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

What about media blasting it with Baking Soda?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., Tom Vanwormer <robsmom@> wrote:

Dean,
Use your ultrasonic cleaner with a diluted 10 to 1 mixture of SuperClean
(available at Walmart & auto stores.

Tom VanWormer


ken_olson54022 wrote:



I would suspect that you could go back to Micheal's, read the caution
information on the label to find out what's in there then go to a
hardware or paint store and get something that will do the job for a
lot less money.
Example: Fingernail polish remover = acetone.

Ken Olson

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>, "Dean"
<1payne1@> wrote:

I have two of the underframes, and I've heard that Bestine rubber
cement thinner is the best way to clean the waxy residue off. I've
been trying to think of other ways to clean them... and finally broke
down and went to Michael's yesterday to pick up some Bestine. But...
it was $17 a pint! I'm thinking this may be my only chance I'll ever
use Bestine... But I was willing to spend maybe $5, not $17. What
other methods work for cleaning Shapeways parts prior to gluing/painting?

Dean Payne






Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

Dean Payne
 

I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner... and I suspect getting one would cost more than a can of Bestine!
I had no idea it was going to be such an issue to get these cleaned. If so, I wonder why they don't clean them at the source? The hassle and cost of using these frames is going up... I wonder if I shouldn't have just carried through with my idea of scratchbuilding them (but the saddles would be complicated to do correctly, and have them sturdy enough for use).

Dean Payne

--- In STMFC@..., Tom Vanwormer <robsmom@...> wrote:

Dean,
Use your ultrasonic cleaner with a diluted 10 to 1 mixture of SuperClean
(available at Walmart & auto stores.

Tom VanWormer


ken_olson54022 wrote:



I would suspect that you could go back to Micheal's, read the caution
information on the label to find out what's in there then go to a
hardware or paint store and get something that will do the job for a
lot less money.
Example: Fingernail polish remover = acetone.

Ken Olson

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>, "Dean"
<1payne1@> wrote:

I have two of the underframes, and I've heard that Bestine rubber
cement thinner is the best way to clean the waxy residue off. I've
been trying to think of other ways to clean them... and finally broke
down and went to Michael's yesterday to pick up some Bestine. But...
it was $17 a pint! I'm thinking this may be my only chance I'll ever
use Bestine... But I was willing to spend maybe $5, not $17. What
other methods work for cleaning Shapeways parts prior to gluing/painting?

Dean Payne






Re: Illinois Central GS gondola decals

Scott Pitzer
 

a note which might be helpful, once you find an HG-102:
When I used it, I didn't care for its IC reporting marks on the side, and I replaced them from Champ's 3/32 alphabet; same for the car number on the side-- Champ 5/64 for that.
I was working from an early 1960s photo, and I can't say whether it was exactly the same as earlier paint jobs.
Scott Pitzer

On Feb 18, 2013, at 6:04 AM, "kevinhlafferty" <khlafferty@...> wrote:

I am trying to find some HO decals for an Illinois Central GS gon. Champ used to have a set HG-102. Would anyone have some that they would care to part with?


AB Brake system on Type 27 tank cars

Bill Welch
 

I am about finished redetailing and upgrading an InterMountian Type 27 u/f. I am using a Grandt Line Cylinder and AB Valve. I am doing the setup with the valve sitting over the Reservoir. In looking at an AC&F builder's Photo using this set up it appears the Valve was not merely turned over and mounted, but if I can believe what I see, the valve used for this setup was a mirror image of the one mounted under a car. Obvious I am not going to be able to model this look but I am going to have to meditate on how to fit the Dirt Collector, and still have the piping more or less connect where it should. In the more typical mounting, the Dirt Collector orientation does not block the mounting holes for the pipe connections.

Another hard day in the Car Shop.

Bill Welch


Re: LV box car -- what kinda roof?

Layout Tour
 

Tim,



The LV's first steel sided 40'6" auto cars were built between 1926 and 1929
by AC&F. These 5000-5999 series were built with Viking, Hutchins, or Murphy
roofs, most had inverse corrugated ends, 10 to12'9" foot door openings, and
10' or 10'6" inside heights. By 1940 and later many were modified to 6'
door box cars or other modifications including end doors, shelves and auto
loaders and renumbered into the 4XXX, 6XXX,70XX and 80XX series. 8046-8056
were listed in service in 1971.



I think many of you may want to bookmark this website:
http://www.northernfield.info/index.php

There is nearly a complete listing of ORER's for all the anthracite
railroads from the 1880's until Conrail.



Chuck Davis

Norfolk, VA


Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

Bill Welch
 

What about media blasting it with Baking Soda?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., Tom Vanwormer <robsmom@...> wrote:

Dean,
Use your ultrasonic cleaner with a diluted 10 to 1 mixture of SuperClean
(available at Walmart & auto stores.

Tom VanWormer


ken_olson54022 wrote:



I would suspect that you could go back to Micheal's, read the caution
information on the label to find out what's in there then go to a
hardware or paint store and get something that will do the job for a
lot less money.
Example: Fingernail polish remover = acetone.

Ken Olson

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>, "Dean"
<1payne1@> wrote:

I have two of the underframes, and I've heard that Bestine rubber
cement thinner is the best way to clean the waxy residue off. I've
been trying to think of other ways to clean them... and finally broke
down and went to Michael's yesterday to pick up some Bestine. But...
it was $17 a pint! I'm thinking this may be my only chance I'll ever
use Bestine... But I was willing to spend maybe $5, not $17. What
other methods work for cleaning Shapeways parts prior to gluing/painting?

Dean Payne




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: LV twin hopper question

Layout Tour
 

As David mentioned, this was one of the fishbelly cars. 25000-25499 were
built by Bethlehem Steel in 1939 and 25500-25939 in 1941. They both had an
inside length of 30'11 7/8", with the later having sides 3" higher.



They were modified at the LV's Packerton Shops in the late 50's and early
60's with the fishbelly part of the side removed. 25 of the 32 LV hopper
cars still in service on 4/75 were from the 25500-25939 series.



Chuck Davis

Norfolk, VA


Re: L&A 32 car

Barrybennetttoo@...
 

Clark,

According to Ted Culotta in his book on the 1932 cars the KCS absorbed the
L&A in 1939 at which point the old logo became replaced with the KCS logo.
I would guess a number of cars would have the old logo but any re-paints
prior to 1954 will have received the KCS logo. I model 1958 so my L&A cars
will have to be very rusty and dirty to retain the original logo, but I will
stretch the credulity anyway.

Barry Bennett

In a message dated 18/02/2013 14:53:37 GMT Standard Time, cepropst@q.com
writes:




Atlas has done a version of the L&A ARA 1932 car with both L&A and KCS
heralds. The KCS version is available, with a reweigh of 56. I model 54. What
year would the KCS claim ownership of the L&A by repainting with their
emblem?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


L&A 32 car

Clark Propst
 

Atlas has done a version of the L&A ARA 1932 car with both L&A and KCS heralds. The KCS version is available, with a reweigh of 56. I model 54. What year would the KCS claim ownership of the L&A by repainting with their emblem?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

Tom Vanwormer
 

Dean,
Use your ultrasonic cleaner with a diluted 10 to 1 mixture of SuperClean
(available at Walmart & auto stores.

Tom VanWormer


ken_olson54022 wrote:



I would suspect that you could go back to Micheal's, read the caution
information on the label to find out what's in there then go to a
hardware or paint store and get something that will do the job for a
lot less money.
Example: Fingernail polish remover = acetone.

Ken Olson

--- In STMFC@... <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>, "Dean"
<1payne1@...> wrote:

I have two of the underframes, and I've heard that Bestine rubber
cement thinner is the best way to clean the waxy residue off. I've
been trying to think of other ways to clean them... and finally broke
down and went to Michael's yesterday to pick up some Bestine. But...
it was $17 a pint! I'm thinking this may be my only chance I'll ever
use Bestine... But I was willing to spend maybe $5, not $17. What
other methods work for cleaning Shapeways parts prior to gluing/painting?

Dean Payne


Re: Decal ethics question

bspinelli <bspinelli@...>
 

sounds good except i'm either nursing the flu or a bad cold. i'll get back to you.

----- Original Message -----
From: lnnrr
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2013 4:43 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Decal ethics question



Thank you folks. I can feel a lot more confident knowing you guys
agree.
Chuck Peck

--- In STMFC@..., "lnnrr" wrote:
>
> I have an unbuilt kit that includes decals specific to that model.
> Not only is the kit out of production, the kit maker no longer makes
> HO kits.
> I'd like to make a couple of somewhat duplicate cars from styrene but
> would need to have copies made of these decals. If I have no plans
> to sell copies but only to use them myself, would that be unethical?
> Chuck Peck
>


Re: News from Model Shapeways & UPS

ken_olson54022 <kwolson@...>
 

I would suspect that you could go back to Micheal's, read the caution information on the label to find out what's in there then go to a hardware or paint store and get something that will do the job for a lot less money.
Example: Fingernail polish remover = acetone.

Ken Olson

--- In STMFC@..., "Dean" <1payne1@...> wrote:

I have two of the underframes, and I've heard that Bestine rubber cement thinner is the best way to clean the waxy residue off. I've been trying to think of other ways to clean them... and finally broke down and went to Michael's yesterday to pick up some Bestine. But... it was $17 a pint! I'm thinking this may be my only chance I'll ever use Bestine... But I was willing to spend maybe $5, not $17. What other methods work for cleaning Shapeways parts prior to gluing/painting?

Dean Payne