Date   

more 70 ton HO trucks -- this time from Rapido

Tim O'Connor
 

(apologies for multiple posts if you belong to more than one group)

The drawings look great. If the models are as good I suspect the
truck with replacement roller bearings will be popular.

70 ton Barber Stabilized with solid bearings
http://www.rapidotrains.com/images/freight/70t_sb_truck.jpg

same truck with roller bearing journals
http://www.rapidotrains.com/images/freight/70t_rb_truck.jpg

70 ton Barber S-2-C roller bearing
http://www.rapidotrains.com/images/freight/70t_rb_truck2.jpg

Tim O'Connor


Re: PFE Steel reefers

Tony Thompson
 

Dick Harley wrote:

 

Here's some data that might affect Fenton's decision about his R-40-23 bodies.

For steel cars, you don't need nearly as many R-40-14s and -20s as you do R-40-10s, R-40-23s or -25s.

      Similar data are in my RMC articles from 20-some years ago, and of course in the PFE book. They are also laid out for 1953 (my modeling year) in one of my early blog posts, where I discussed proportioning one's freight car fleet to that of the prototype. That post, with table, is at this link:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: brass model foam decomposition

Michael Watnoski
 

Greetings,

To avoid the problem of sticking foam, wrap the models in clear plastic film like Saran wrap or Glad wrap before placing in foam.

Michael

On 9/10/2013 10:21 PM, Schuyler Larrabee wrote:
When Reboxx got into the business of replacement boxes for brass models,
this problem was well known. They put quite a bit of research into the
right kind of foam to use to defer decomposition as long as possible if not
permanently. Since JP Barger is on this list, perhaps he could share the
generic description of the foam they used.


Schuyler



Brass models almost always have a coat of clear lacquer on them. I typically
soak my brass models in lacquer thinner for a few days, then rinse, grit
blast
(to remove tiny bits stuck to grabirons etc) and wash. Blasting is good for
removal of oxidation.

Tim O'Connor




Much depends on the type of foam and type of paint. If it is just the foam
giving up and sticking to the paint gentle polishing with a soft cotton
cloth dipped in alcohol may help. This may cause the paint to develop a
whitish bloom but a recoating with clear lacquer or dullcoat should improve
things. Brasso is useful for polishing out well cured enamels and lacquers,
but will lead to very shiny freightcars -

If the original paint is an acrylic or of the decomposing foam has reacted
with the paint or embedded itself into the surface, then I am afraid you are
in for a complete strip and repaint unless the affected areas are small and
not very visible

Aidrian


On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 6:40 AM, Staffan Ehnbom <staffan.ehnbom@telia.com >
wrote:


I couldn't find anything in archives on brass model foam decomposition. What
can be done to the attack on the paint on the model?








------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: brass model foam decomposition

Schuyler Larrabee
 

When Reboxx got into the business of replacement boxes for brass models,
this problem was well known. They put quite a bit of research into the
right kind of foam to use to defer decomposition as long as possible if not
permanently. Since JP Barger is on this list, perhaps he could share the
generic description of the foam they used.



Schuyler




Brass models almost always have a coat of clear lacquer on them. I typically
soak my brass models in lacquer thinner for a few days, then rinse, grit
blast
(to remove tiny bits stuck to grabirons etc) and wash. Blasting is good for
removal of oxidation.

Tim O'Connor




Much depends on the type of foam and type of paint. If it is just the foam
giving up and sticking to the paint gentle polishing with a soft cotton
cloth dipped in alcohol may help. This may cause the paint to develop a
whitish bloom but a recoating with clear lacquer or dullcoat should improve
things. Brasso is useful for polishing out well cured enamels and lacquers,
but will lead to very shiny freightcars -

If the original paint is an acrylic or of the decomposing foam has reacted
with the paint or embedded itself into the surface, then I am afraid you are
in for a complete strip and repaint unless the affected areas are small and
not very visible

Aidrian

On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 6:40 AM, Staffan Ehnbom <staffan.ehnbom@telia.com >
wrote:



I couldn't find anything in archives on brass model foam decomposition. What
can be done to the attack on the paint on the model?


Re: MDT Reefer Models

devansprr
 

Roger,

Thank-you for the clarification. I am confused about the ends - is it the interface to the frame that is wrong, or at the roof line? I am not skilled in spotting the differences.

The early MDT cars seem to lack any exterior framing, although the post-war rebuilds (even when they retained wood ends) did add some vertical structures?

Dave Evans

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, ROGER HINMAN <rhinman11@...> wrote:

my comments had to do with the Accurail car used for the wood model

Roger Hinman
On Sep 10, 2013, at 7:07 PM, "Dave Evans" <devans1@...> wrote:

All,

Bob asked about both the steel and wood models.

The discussion so far seems to be focused on the steel car?

Is the wood model that far off? It seems to be a pretty good match (can't see the roof) to MDT 22223 (circa 1936-7?) in Roger Hinman's MDT book on page 152. The lettering in particular seems to be a spot-on match.

Am I missing something?

Dave Evans

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@> wrote:


Bob, the lettering placement does not match any of the photos I've seen of the white MDT reefers.
The capacity data and the dimensional data are shifted to the left and right, respectively, on prototype
MDT reefers. But I'm no expert on MDT...

Tim O'Connor



An NMRA Division is selling HO scale MDT reefers in both wood- and steel-sheathed versions. These are painted in white with blue and red stripes:
<http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html>http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html

The cars are derived from Accurail's 4800-series 40-foot wood reefers with fishbelly steel underframes and Accurail's 8300-series 40-foot all-steel reefers.

Would anyone car to comment on the accuracy of the original models or the paint schemes on these specific models?

Thanks
Bob Chaparro
Hemet , CA


Re: PFE Steel reefers

Dick Harley
 

Here's some data that might affect Fenton's decision about his R-40-23 bodies.
This comes from the April 1950 ORER.  I have not created this info for 1952.
For steel cars, you don't need nearly as many R-40-14s and -20s as you do R-40-10s, R-40-23s or -25s.



PFE Class Numbers Cars 4-'50 % 4-'50
R-30/40-9 91022 - 96523 2,680 6.90%
R-30/40-9 91022 - 96523 2,376 6.10%
R-30/40-9 96524 - 98718 2,125 5.50%
7,181 18.50%
R-30-19, 21, 24 62501 - 68532 5,958 15.40%
R-40-23 5001 - 8000 2,986 7.70%
R-40-23 46703 - 48702 1,992 5.10%
4,978 12.90%
R-40-10 40001 - 44700 4,594 11.90%
R-30/40-16 73001 - 76554 3,434 8.90%
R-40-25 2001 - 5000 2,998 7.70%
R-30/40-18 60001 - 62500 2,455 6.30%
R-40-20 45701 - 46702 994 2.60%
R-40-14 44701 - 45700 988 2.60%
R-40-4 71273 - 71953 488 1.30%
R-40-4 38563 - 39062 477 1.20%
965 2.50%
W.P.  (R-30-9) 50001 - 52775 114 0.30%
W.P.  (R-30-9) 50001 - 52775 647 1.70%
W.P.  (R-30-9) 50001 - 52775 155 0.40%
916 2.40%
     
 TOP-11   TOTAL 35,461 91.60%
4-'50   PFE   TOTAL 38,721


Enjoy,
Dick Harley
Laguna Beach,  CA



Re: PFE Steel reefers

Dick Harley
 

Fenton Wells asked about making other PFE classes out of an InterMountain HO R-40-23 kit.

As with most modeling projects, it depends on how fussy you are.

The door height of the R-40-14 was 7'-0" (same as the R-40-10); the R-40-20 door height was 7'-2" and the R-40-23 was 7'-6". This shows up most noticeably (to me) as the drip rail above the doors for the R-40-23 being ON the side top plate (or whatever you call that strip that runs across the top of the sides). The previous classes have the door drip rail BELOW that plate. To me, that's usually easier to see in a photo or model than what the ends are. It is a sure-fire way to tell an R-40-24 wood-sided car from any other wood PFE class.

Also, the R-40-23 was the beginning of the use of welded underframes on PFE cars. The previous classes had riveted underframes.

So, whether an R-40-23 body is the best way to start an R-40-14 or -20 is open to debate and personal choice. Marklin/Trix did a model of the R-40-14 that had some serious shortcomings - like the hatches. I am in the process of figuring out whether it is a candidate for a good R-40-14 or R-40-20 model. More on that at Naperville. Of course, that doesn't much help Fenton decide what to do with his R-40-23 bodies.


Cheers,
Dick Harley
Laguna Beach, CA


Re: New Haven paint and stenciling applied in May 1955

Tim O'Connor
 

Bill

The McGinnis black cars with orange doors and solid orange cars were
concurrent in 1955. I've seen box car red cars with the large NH to
the right of the door, but only the black cars and orange cars got a
large NH on the left side of the door, as far as I know. Maybe you
have a shot of a rare car?

Red Caboose released 8068-x (orange) and 8070-x (black) series kits.

Tim O'Connor



Intermountain did a run of the black cars, with white, and orange NH letters also in an orange car not sure of box car red. They were available from NH society. Dave

From: Bill Welch
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 5:55 PM
Subject: [STMFC] New Haven paint and stenciling applied in May 1955
 
In the Walter Frost Collection at the Vancouver Library there are three 1937 type New Haven boxcar photos apparently painted in May 1955. Two of the photos are slightly different views of NH 36141 in what appears to be a boxcar red color with a large "NH" to the left of the door while dimensional and weight data, reporting marks, and car number are all to the right of the door. The "N" in the "NH" is barely visible due to the film I am sure. NH 36415 appears to be a black car and the "NH" is all stenciled in white.

Can someone please educate me as to the use of the parallel schemes? I assume there was some sort of marketing or publicity campaign involved. Did IMWX ever do either scheme or has Red Caboose or InterMountain ever offered them? Thank you!
Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727.470.9930
fgexbill@...


Re: brass model foam decomposition

Tim O'Connor
 


Brass models almost always have a coat of clear lacquer on them. I typically
soak my brass models in lacquer thinner for a few days, then rinse, grit blast
(to remove tiny bits stuck to grabirons etc) and wash. Blasting is good for
removal of oxidation.

Tim O'Connor



Much depends on the type of foam and type of paint. If it is just the foam giving up and sticking to the paint gentle polishing with a soft cotton cloth dipped in alcohol may help. This may cause the paint to develop a whitish bloom but a recoating with clear lacquer or dullcoat should improve things. Brasso is useful  for polishing out well cured enamels and lacquers, but will lead to very shiny freightcars -

If the original paint is an acrylic or of the decomposing foam has reacted with the paint or embedded itself into the surface, then I am afraid you are in for a complete strip and repaint unless the affected areas are small and not very visible

Aidrian


On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 6:40 AM, Staffan Ehnbom <staffan.ehnbom@... > wrote:
 

I couldn't find anything in archives on brass model foam decomposition. What can be done to the attack on the paint on the model?


Re: MDT Reefer Models

ROGER HINMAN
 

my comments had to do with the Accurail car used for the wood model

Roger Hinman

On Sep 10, 2013, at 7:07 PM, "Dave Evans" <devans1@...> wrote:

 

All,

Bob asked about both the steel and wood models.

The discussion so far seems to be focused on the steel car?

Is the wood model that far off? It seems to be a pretty good match (can't see the roof) to MDT 22223 (circa 1936-7?) in Roger Hinman's MDT book on page 152. The lettering in particular seems to be a spot-on match.

Am I missing something?

Dave Evans

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor wrote:
>
>
> Bob, the lettering placement does not match any of the photos I've seen of the white MDT reefers.
> The capacity data and the dimensional data are shifted to the left and right, respectively, on prototype
> MDT reefers. But I'm no expert on MDT...
>
> Tim O'Connor
>
>
>
> >An NMRA Division is selling HO scale MDT reefers in both wood- and steel-sheathed versions. These are painted in white with blue and red stripes:
> ><http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html>http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html
> >
> >The cars are derived from Accurail's 4800-series 40-foot wood reefers with fishbelly steel underframes and Accurail's 8300-series 40-foot all-steel reefers.
> >
> >Would anyone car to comment on the accuracy of the original models or the paint schemes on these specific models?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Bob Chaparro
> >Hemet , CA
>



Re: MDT Reefer Models

Tim O'Connor
 

The MDT 9000 series steel reefers were delivered in the white paint.
But as I said the lettering was skewed towards the ends. I have found
some other photos showing the lettering like the model, so it may be
a question of different practices at different times.

Tim O'Connor

I'm baffled as to why they would letter a steel car in this scheme ( none
were lettered this way that I'm aware of ).

The listing says the steel car model is based on the lot 742 cars. Lot 742
cars were composite cars - wood sides with steel ends.

In HO scale - there are a couple resin kits by Sunshine and Rutland Car
Shops - but there is no plastic MDT reefer models available.

Terry Link
Bramalea, Ontario, Canada
www.canadasouthern.com


Re: MDT Reefer Models

devansprr
 

All,

Bob asked about both the steel and wood models.

The discussion so far seems to be focused on the steel car?

Is the wood model that far off? It seems to be a pretty good match (can't see the roof) to MDT 22223 (circa 1936-7?) in Roger Hinman's MDT book on page 152. The lettering in particular seems to be a spot-on match.

Am I missing something?

Dave Evans

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


Bob, the lettering placement does not match any of the photos I've seen of the white MDT reefers.
The capacity data and the dimensional data are shifted to the left and right, respectively, on prototype
MDT reefers. But I'm no expert on MDT...

Tim O'Connor



An NMRA Division is selling HO scale MDT reefers in both wood- and steel-sheathed versions. These are painted in white with blue and red stripes:
<http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html>http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html

The cars are derived from Accurail's 4800-series 40-foot wood reefers with fishbelly steel underframes and Accurail's 8300-series 40-foot all-steel reefers.

Would anyone car to comment on the accuracy of the original models or the paint schemes on these specific models?

Thanks
Bob Chaparro
Hemet , CA


Re: MDT Reefer Models

Terry Link
 

I'm baffled as to why they would letter a steel car in this scheme ( none were lettered this way that I'm aware of ).

The listing says the steel car model is based on the lot 742 cars. Lot 742
cars were composite cars - wood sides with steel ends.

In HO scale - there are a couple resin kits by Sunshine and Rutland Car
Shops - but there is
no plastic MDT reefer models available.


Terry Link
Bramalea, Ontario, Canada
www.canadasouthern.com

An NMRA Division is selling HO scale MDT reefers in both wood- and
steel-sheathed versions. These are painted in white with blue and red
stripes:

http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html


The cars are derived from Accurail's 4800-series 40-foot wood reefers with
fishbelly steel underframes and Accurail's 8300-series 40-foot all-steel
reefers.


Re: outstanding article on freight cars

Scott
 

I saw this on the rack at the hobby store today and checked out the article.  


I bought the magazine after reading just the first part of the article! 


Well done!  



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

I've sent the following message to Railroad Model Craftsman:

Congratulations to author Mike Evans and to editor Chris D'Amato for the outstanding article on the tank car to covered hopper conversion in the September issue. It is clearly described, beautifully illustrated, and continues the RMC tradition of serious articles on freight car modeling. Great stuff! I'm looking forward to seeing more of it.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: MDT Reefer Models

Tim O'Connor
 


Bob, the lettering placement does not match any of the photos I've seen of the white MDT reefers.
The capacity data and the dimensional data are shifted to the left and right, respectively, on prototype
MDT reefers. But I'm no expert on MDT...

Tim O'Connor



An NMRA Division is selling HO scale MDT reefers in both wood- and steel-sheathed versions.  These are painted in white with blue and red stripes:
http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html

The cars are derived from Accurail's 4800-series 40-foot wood reefers with fishbelly steel underframes and Accurail's 8300-series 40-foot all-steel reefers.

Would anyone car to comment on the accuracy of the original models or the paint schemes on these specific models?

Thanks
Bob Chaparro
Hemet , CA


Re: MDT Reefer Models

ROGER HINMAN
 

As long as you only look at it from the side it's not too bad. If you look at the roof, the ends or the underframe it's very noticeably not the same thing. 

Roger Hinman

On Sep 9, 2013, at 8:45 PM, "Bruce F. Smith" <smithbf@...> wrote:

 

Bob,

Considering that the prototype for the Accurail reefer is a relatively unique BREX car, it seems unlikely that it is correct as is for an MDT car, or any other road name other than BREX.  Is it possible to bash it into one?  Don't know...

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL 

From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...] on behalf of Bob Chaparro [thecitrusbelt@...]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 7:01 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] MDT Reefer Models



An NMRA Division is selling HO scale MDT reefers in both wood- and steel-sheathed versions.  These are painted in white with blue and red stripes:

http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html

 

The cars are derived from Accurail's 4800-series 40-foot wood reefers with fishbelly steel underframes and Accurail's 8300-series 40-foot all-steel reefers.

 

Would anyone car to comment on the accuracy of the original models or the paint schemes on these specific models?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet , CA






Re: Funaro KCS Auto Car help

Scott
 

Thanks Mike,  I am looking for a "B" end shot of the car to figure out the grab iron placements.  Also would like to figure out the spacing on the short ladders they used in place of grab irons.


Good to know on the re-paint as I model late Forties.   Hopefully the Mainline Modeler will shed some light on it.


Scott McDonald 



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

 Scott,

 

There is one of the car new on the F&C site:

 

http://fandckits.com/HOFreight/6250.html

 

I would love to see a photo of this car in the late '40s.  My suspicion is that the "Quick Dispatch" logo was not kept when the car was repainted.  Anyone have one?

 

Regards,

 

Mike Aufderheide



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

Thanks Ben,  is that available anywhere to download on the internet? 


Scott McDonald



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

Scott McDonald asked:
"3) Anybody have a picture to work off of the car?"
 
See "KCS Auto Boxcar" by Robert L. Hundman and John Nehrich in the August 1984 issue of Mainline Modeler.
 
 
Ben Hom
 
 
 
 


Re: Funaro KCS Auto Car help

Scott
 

Thanks Ben, I got the issue ordered.  Guess I will have to start another kit while I wait. 



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

Scott McDonald asked:
"Thanks Ben,  is that available anywhere to download on the internet?"
 
Unfortunately, no for Mainline Modeler.  This article does come with drawings that should answer your question.  Your best bet is to get a back issue from a vendor like Railpub or request a scan from a group member.  (Mine are in storage - otherwise, I'd send you a scan.)
 
 
Ben Hom  


Re: reefer door hinges

Tony Thompson
 

Ed Mines wrote:

 
Does anyone offer HO scale reefer hinges besides Grandt line? Aren't these grossly oversized?


      Yes, Tichy. No.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





reefer door hinges

ed_mines
 

Does anyone offer HO scale reefer hinges besides Grandt line? Aren't these grossly oversized?

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