Date   

Re: Funaro KCS Auto Car help

Benjamin Hom
 

Scott McDonald asked:
"Thanks Ben,  is that available anywhere to download on the internet?"
 
Unfortunately, no for Mainline Modeler.  This article does come with drawings that should answer your question.  Your best bet is to get a back issue from a vendor like Railpub or request a scan from a group member.  (Mine are in storage - otherwise, I'd send you a scan.)
 
 
Ben Hom 


Re: New Haven paint and stenciling applied in May 1955

Bill Welch
 

Thanks Marty, the website answered my question.


Bill Welch


Re: Funaro KCS Auto Car help

Michael Aufderheide
 

 Scott,

 

There is one of the car new on the F&C site:

 

http://fandckits.com/HOFreight/6250.html

 

I would love to see a photo of this car in the late '40s.  My suspicion is that the "Quick Dispatch" logo was not kept when the car was repainted.  Anyone have one?

 

Regards,

 

Mike Aufderheide


--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

Thanks Ben,  is that available anywhere to download on the internet? 


Scott McDonald



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

Scott McDonald asked:
"3) Anybody have a picture to work off of the car?"
 
See "KCS Auto Boxcar" by Robert L. Hundman and John Nehrich in the August 1984 issue of Mainline Modeler.
 
 
Ben Hom
 
 
 
 


Re: New Haven paint and stenciling applied in May 1955

Marty McGuirk
 

Bill,

I'm at the office, and the story of the "McGinnis/New Image" and "Alpert/Trustee" scheme is too complicated to recite from memory. Suggest you look at this link on Peter Ness' web site

http://newhavenrailroad1959.webs.com/newhavenfreightcars.htm

- it may answer your question - Marty McGuirk

 

 


--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

Intermountain did a run of the black cars, with white, and orange NH letters also in an orange car not sure of box car red. They were available from NH society. Dave

From: Bill Welch <fgexbill@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 5:55 PM
Subject: [STMFC] New Haven paint and stenciling applied in May 1955
 
In the Walter Frost Collection at the Vancouver Library there are three 1937 type New Haven boxcar photos apparently painted in May 1955. Two of the photos are slightly different views of NH 36141 in what appears to be a boxcar red color with a large "NH" to the left of the door while dimensional and weight data, reporting marks, and car number are all to the right of the door. The "N" in the "NH" is barely visible due to the film I am sure. NH 36415 appears to be a black car and the "NH" is all stenciled in white.

Can someone please educate me as to the use of the parallel schemes? I assume there was some sort of marketing or publicity campaign involved. Did IMWX ever do either scheme or has Red Caboose or InterMountain ever offered them? Thank you!
Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727.470.9930


Re: Funaro KCS Auto Car help

Scott
 

Thanks Ben,  is that available anywhere to download on the internet? 


Scott McDonald



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

Scott McDonald asked:
"3) Anybody have a picture to work off of the car?"
 
See "KCS Auto Boxcar" by Robert L. Hundman and John Nehrich in the August 1984 issue of Mainline Modeler.
 
 
Ben Hom
 
 
 
 


You wreck, you buy ?

cddx@...
 

I've just recently heard about the whole idea of "you wreck, you buy" principle of acquiring cars from other railroads. Do any of you know the details about how this worked? Did a car have to have a certain amount of damage? Or require a certain percentage of the car's value before requiring the road that wrecked it to buy it?


I've found photos of various cars in the G&F shops that were not original purchases. So I'm wondering how this worked.

THANKS!

-Chris Dills


Re: PFE Steel reefers

O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks Tony, somehow I knew you would know .  I'll start reading and accumulating new replacement ends.I appreciate that.
Fenton Wells


On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 12:13 AM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:
 

Fenton Wells wrote:

I've got several undec Intermountain PFE R 40-23 steel reefers and have done one as a 40-23.  I would like to back date some of these.  Is there an article or any suggestions from the group that could refer me to a source to look at for this purpose?

I model 1952 and the 40-23 is 1947 any other easy conversions?

       Not sure what you mean by "easy," Fenton. There are ends which can be substituted to make preceding classes R-40-14 and -20 (W-corner-post ends instead of Dreadnaught) or you can use the Details West square-corner end for R-40-10 (of course IM makes a fine -10 car). I did the substitution of ends on Athearn reefer bodies, but the Athearn prototype is also R-40-23, so a similar procedure could be used. The ends I used are now available from Southern Car & Foundry. For more on the -14 and -20 conversions, you can read my blog posts about them, culminating in this one:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history







--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@...


Re: Funaro KCS Auto Car help

Benjamin Hom
 

Scott McDonald asked:
"3) Anybody have a picture to work off of the car?"
 
See "KCS Auto Boxcar" by Robert L. Hundman and John Nehrich in the August 1984 issue of Mainline Modeler.
 
 
Ben Hom
 
 
 
 


Funaro KCS Auto Car help

Scott
 

Well fall is around the corner so time to start knocking out some kits.


I have the body built and am trying to figure out the B end details.  The directions are not very clear.

1) For the end grabs do I drill above or below the bolt casting? It kind of looks like above on the picture.

2) I was looking at using a Kadee side grab and cut off one end for the top end grab.  This seem like a good idea?

3) Anybody have a picture to work off of the car?

Thanks,
Scott McDonald


Re: PFE Steel reefers

Tony Thompson
 

Fenton Wells wrote:

I've got several undec Intermountain PFE R 40-23 steel reefers and have done one as a 40-23.  I would like to back date some of these.  Is there an article or any suggestions from the group that could refer me to a source to look at for this purpose?

I model 1952 and the 40-23 is 1947 any other easy conversions?

       Not sure what you mean by "easy," Fenton. There are ends which can be substituted to make preceding classes R-40-14 and -20 (W-corner-post ends instead of Dreadnaught) or you can use the Details West square-corner end for R-40-10 (of course IM makes a fine -10 car). I did the substitution of ends on Athearn reefer bodies, but the Athearn prototype is also R-40-23, so a similar procedure could be used. The ends I used are now available from Southern Car & Foundry. For more on the -14 and -20 conversions, you can read my blog posts about them, culminating in this one:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: brass model foam decomposition

Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam@...>
 

Much depends on the type of foam and type of paint. If it is just the foam giving up and sticking to the paint gentle polishing with a soft cotton cloth dipped in alcohol may help. This may cause the paint to develop a whitish bloom but a recoating with clear lacquer or dullcoat should improve things. Brasso is useful  for polishing out well cured enamels and lacquers, but will lead to very shiny freightcars - 

If the original paint is an acrylic or of the decomposing foam has reacted with the paint or embedded itself into the surface, then I am afraid you are in for a complete strip and repaint unless the affected areas are small and not very visible

Aidrian


On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 6:40 AM, Staffan Ehnbom <staffan.ehnbom@...> wrote:
 

I couldn't find anything in archives on brass model foam decomposition. What can be done to the attack on the paint on the model?



PFE Steel reefers

O Fenton Wells
 

I've got several undec Intermountain PFE R 40-23 steel reefers and have done one as a 40-23.  I would like to back date some of these.  Is there an article or any suggestions from the group that could refer me to a source to look at for this purpose?

I model 1952 and the 40-23 is 1947 any other easy conversions?
Thanks in advance for any help. I do have Tony's articles from RMC in the 1980's, I think on this subject.
Fenton Wells


Re: MDT Reefer Models

Bruce Smith
 

Bob,

Considering that the prototype for the Accurail reefer is a relatively unique BREX car, it seems unlikely that it is correct as is for an MDT car, or any other road name other than BREX.  Is it possible to bash it into one?  Don't know...

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL 


From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...] on behalf of Bob Chaparro [thecitrusbelt@...]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 7:01 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] MDT Reefer Models



An NMRA Division is selling HO scale MDT reefers in both wood- and steel-sheathed versions.  These are painted in white with blue and red stripes:

http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html

 

The cars are derived from Accurail's 4800-series 40-foot wood reefers with fishbelly steel underframes and Accurail's 8300-series 40-foot all-steel reefers.

 

Would anyone car to comment on the accuracy of the original models or the paint schemes on these specific models?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet , CA




MDT Reefer Models

Bob Chaparro <thecitrusbelt@...>
 

An NMRA Division is selling HO scale MDT reefers in both wood- and steel-sheathed versions.  These are painted in white with blue and red stripes:

http://www.cincy-div7.org/projects.html

 

The cars are derived from Accurail's 4800-series 40-foot wood reefers with fishbelly steel underframes and Accurail's 8300-series 40-foot all-steel reefers.

 

Would anyone car to comment on the accuracy of the original models or the paint schemes on these specific models?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob Chaparro

Hemet , CA


Re: New Haven paint and stenciling applied in May 1955

Dave Boss
 

Intermountain did a run of the black cars, with white, and orange NH letters also in an orange car not sure of box car red. They were available from NH society. Dave

From: Bill Welch
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 5:55 PM
Subject: [STMFC] New Haven paint and stenciling applied in May 1955
 
In the Walter Frost Collection at the Vancouver Library there are three 1937 type New Haven boxcar photos apparently painted in May 1955. Two of the photos are slightly different views of NH 36141 in what appears to be a boxcar red color with a large "NH" to the left of the door while dimensional and weight data, reporting marks, and car number are all to the right of the door. The "N" in the "NH" is barely visible due to the film I am sure. NH 36415 appears to be a black car and the "NH" is all stenciled in white.

Can someone please educate me as to the use of the parallel schemes? I assume there was some sort of marketing or publicity campaign involved. Did IMWX ever do either scheme or has Red Caboose or InterMountain ever offered them? Thank you!
Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727.470.9930


Re: Speedwitch web site

Ted Culotta
 

I have a point of clarification because the question has been raised by several very intelligent persons. For the Speedwitch Relaunch goods at indiegogo, yes, you do get ALL of the decals listed there. For those of you who are baffled as to what this statement is in reference to, please visit:

Sorry for the confusion.

Also, an O (or S or N) version is not planned at present.

Cheers
Ted Culotta


Re: brass model foam decomposition

Tony Thompson
 

Staffan Ehnbom wrote:

 
I couldn't find anything in archives on brass model foam decomposition. What can be done to the attack on the paint on the model?

     Probably depends on the chemistry of the particular foam. I had one of these problems, and rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol got almost all of it off.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





brass model foam decomposition

Staffan Ehnbom <staffan.ehnbom@...>
 

I couldn't find anything in archives on brass model foam decomposition. What can be done to the attack on the paint on the model?

Staffan Ehnbom


Re: filling screw holes - An alternative body filler putty

mark
 

 Group,
    I agree with the fact that even with a pin vise should have been a no-brainer.However I was in a situation where I could not do it myself,and trusted a friend to do it for me.He did some other work for me at the same time and it all came out exactly as intended,except for these holes.I once years ago was told Bondo was great for something like this.I have only been working with resin kits for about two years.Most of what I have built in the last 40 years was mainly wood and styrene,so I welcome All suggestions I don't want to have to buy a big container of something that will take a life time to use.Out of all the resin kits I have built this is the only time I have ever had an issue.Lesson learned do it yourself and IF you need some some help,have a fellow modeler help you.
                                                      Thanks for the all the in-put and advice Mark McCoy tavwot@...


From: "paul.doggett2472@..."
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Monday, September 9, 2013 1:04 PM
Subject: [STMFC] RE: filling screw holes - An alternative body filler putty

 
Mark
       
        I agree with all Bruce says, drilling plastic or resin is easy with a pin vice (vise)
 
Paul Doggett England 


--- In STMFC@..., wrote:

Mark,

What material is the car made of?  If it is resin, it might be best to fill it with more resin, but be aware that it may not really adhere well  You may need to core out a larger hole, add styrene to that and then drill and tap that .  If it is plastic, fill it with styrene and glue, let it dry and drill and tap. 

Why are you worrying about a drill press?  I drill all mine by hand and it is not a big deal at all.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith            
Auburn, AL

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
 
On Sep 9, 2013, at 10:09 AM, <tavwot@...>
 <tavwot@...> wrote:



Hello Group ,
     I have been following this topic since the start.I have a question concerning filling holes that were drilled and tapped.I have a flat car that I had a friend drill and tap for me.(he was the only person I know that had a drill press).Some how he managed to drill and tap both holes at an angle.I need to fill the holes so that I can re-drill and tap the holes,and I am looking for any ideas and/or guidance on this matter.
   Thank you in advance for any help on this,
Mark McCoy




Re: filling screw holes - An alternative body filler putty

 

Actually I used a "Holland" motor like A-Line sells
<http://www.ppw-aline.com/re-power.htm>, with flywheel on one end and Gyro
collet on the other. Hooked up to a variable DC transformer and run at about
4.5 volts, it goes thru styrene and resin like crazy, and is quick enough
you don't have time to bend the drill and break it off. I used to break 2-3
drills per resin car before, now I can make it 2-3 cars without breakage.

The only problem I have is if the drill binds up, you have to carefully turn
the motor in the opposite direction manually to back it out.

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

From: <paul.doggett2472@yahoo.co.uk>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, September 9, 2013 12:04 PM
To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [STMFC] RE: filling screw holes - An alternative body filler putty






Mark



I agree with all Bruce says, drilling plastic or resin is easy with
a pin vice (vise)



Paul Doggett England

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, <stmfc@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Mark,

What material is the car made of? If it is resin, it might be best to fill
it with more resin, but be aware that it may not really adhere well You may
need to core out a larger hole, add styrene to that and then drill and tap
that . If it is plastic, fill it with styrene and glue, let it dry and
drill and tap.

Why are you worrying about a drill press? I drill all mine by hand and it
is not a big deal at all.

Regards

Bruce



Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."


On Sep 9, 2013, at 10:09 AM, <tavwot@...>
<tavwot@...> wrote:




Hello Group ,

I have been following this topic since the start.I have a question
concerning filling holes that were drilled and tapped.I have a flat car that I
had a friend drill and tap for me.(he was the only person I know that had a
drill press).Some how he managed to drill and tap both holes at an angle.I
need to fill the holes so that I can re-drill and tap the holes,and I am
looking for any ideas and/or guidance on this matter.

Thank you in advance for any help on this,

Mark McCoy

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