Date   

Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

Tony Thompson
 

Michael Watnoski wrote:

Another product similar to canopy cement is Alene's Tacky glue. It may be more readily available. Wal-Mart also has pack of 5 different versions of this in sample size bottles.

      Similar, yes, but not the same. For one thing, it's not as strong when fully dry.

Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Yes I have.
And my preference remains with etched.
I concede that the Plano etched running boards can present challenges for mounting, but the variety of flexible adhesives available can solve most issues.
And we're working on a variation of etched running boards that are the correct thickness and nice fine patterns. Stay tuned.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, tgregmrtn@... wrote:

Lumpy? Oversized? vs. smooth and undersized? And in some cases the wrong
visual profile.

Pierre have you actually tried them?

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 9/8/2013 12:16:41 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pierre.oliver@... writes:





True but they're lumpy and oversized.
Pierre Oliver


Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

Greg Martin
 

Lumpy? Oversized? vs. smooth and undersized? And in some cases the wrong visual profile.
 
Pierre have you actually tried them?
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 9/8/2013 12:16:41 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, pierre.oliver@... writes:


True but they're lumpy and oversized.
Pierre Oliver


Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

Greg Martin
 

I have used the Tichy running boards see my article in the Zephyr of the Sioux City Dressed beef NX reefer. I know Stand Rydarowicz swears by them.  They can be trimmed easily to shorter lengths with no issue.
 
I do thin mine down by turning it upside down on masking tape and sanding it slightly thinker and beveling the edge.
 
I have and use some Etched running board (still don't get why they are not brass) but in profile they are too thin.
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
ed_mines@... writes:

They are a little bit difficult to attach & paint, they may detach/bend due to differences in thermal expansion.

Plastic ones can be solvent welded & are a lot cheaper. 

--- In STMFC@..., wrote:

What's bad about etched running boards?
Pierre Oliver



Re: An alternative body filler putty

Thomas Baker
 

Denny,

You mention the Squadron products. There are two that I know of: Squadron Green and Squadron White. I have tried both but have found Squadron Green more useful. What is your view? I have found, however, that Squadron Green can shrink. I have also used Dr. Mike's granular filler. After filling the gap, hole, or crack, one adds the granular filler, then a dapple of Testor's glue or ACC. The stuff sands down if one adds too much of the granular filler, but it does seem to work. Thanks very much for your input about 5-minute epoxy.

One other question: I have three F&C kits waiting to be assembled but am not sure what a suitable glue would be for the resin parts. Do you have a recommendation?

Tom Baker
________________________________________
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [STMFC@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of Anspach Denny [danspachmd@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 11:25 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Re: An alternative body filler putty

2-Ton Epoxy is a good conventional, if pricey product (because of its small packaging). Other packaged similar slow-setting epoxies should serve just as well. They all can serve as a fillers, inasmuch as they do not shrink, are sandable, and when cured are all but impervious to all solvents. A distinct disadvantage as a filler is that when cured, they are usually much harder than the substrate, i.e. styrene, resin, or wood, so that for the unwary modeler who sands away, the result is commonly smooth founded mounds of epoxy filler rising proud above surrounding fields of destroyed surface detailing and sanding-induced shallow excavations.

This latter effect can be somewhat ameliorated by "lightening" the epoxy mix by adding in vinyl microballoons- also a pricey alternative for those just doing very small work. Marine epoxy filler is made up of this or a similar mix.

Before epoxy cures, it can be thinned, and tools cleaned with lacquer thinner- not always a solvent that would be safe to use with styrene.

Treat 5-minute epoxy like the plague. It is an expedient product that has little to recommend it except for desperate emergencies. It crystalizes and fails.

My experience with epoxies is extensive and long, having used a wide variety of them in substantial roles over the years in the restoration of fine wood boats. That said, I have found little use for these otherwise extraordinary adhesives in my railroad modeling, because other products consistently serve me better. In the case of filler or a surfacing putty: Squadron Putty. It is not perfect, but day in and day out, on balance, it serves well for our purposes.

Denny


Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: model paint in aerosol cans

Kenneth Montero
 

Jack,

Thank you. I overlooked the dropdown menu at the top of the page.

Ken Montero



From: "moonmuln"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 1:02:11 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: model paint in aerosol cans

 

Ken,
Choose the Online Catalog, then select Paints/Cements from the dropdown menu of categories. If there's a color chart anywhere, I haven't found it.

And this is Yahoo weird, now the Reply function is working as it used to, starting with a copy of the note replied to.

Jack Mullen

--- In STMFC@..., va661midlo@... wrote:
>
> Jack,
>
> Where is it on their website? I could not find it.
>
> Ken Montero
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "moonmuln"
> To: STMFC@...
> Sent: Saturday, September 7, 2013 7:28:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [STMFC] model paint in aerosol cans
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Ed,
> Star Line paint is made by/for and sold by P-B-L. www.p-b-l.com Good stuff.
> Jack Mullen
>
> Ed Mines wrote:
>
> > Thanks for your reply. Where can I get them? Who's the manufacturer?
>
> >> Ed,
> >> Try your friends at Star Brand Paints. You are looking for Sunburnt >> BCR & Weathered Black
> >> Tom VanWormer
>
> And concerning Neo, now it seems that when I do a REPLY, Yahoo doesn't copy the previous text into the response box as it used to. Oh well, can do a cut-paste, as I did above.
> Jack
>


Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

Bill Welch
 

Bowser offers the open grid running board that comes with their covered hopper as a separate item, two to a tube. For a forty-foot boxcar they need to be spliced together which is very easy. It is a much finer part, thinner than the Tichy item. There is also the Kadee running board available now for a couple of years I think.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Pierre" <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:


True but they're lumpy and oversized.
Pierre Oliver


Re: Sandblasting for models, resin and brass

Jack Burgess
 

I once had a Pasche air eraser which didn't work well at all...clogged easily and, when it worked, it depleted the small container of grit quickly. I'm now using a “Pencil” sand blaster from these guys:

 

www.cycloneblasters.com/pencil.htm

 

This sand blaster is very simple in design and works very well. I'm using it in a home-made sand blasting cabinet that I described in an article in the  February 2012 RMC.

 

Jack Burgess

 

Hi to all

 

Have any of you out there used any of the model sandblasters to remove paint and other assorted rubbish from brass models.   I have seen two one is a Badger and the other a Pasche.   I am trying to figure out if it is worth my while to purchase one of these and how easy they are to operate.   I have a lot of brass and resin freight cars that needs to be stripped and repainted and the stripping agents seem to be either very harsh to work or don't work at all.   The other problem with resin is of course what has been pointed out here recently regarding differing materials in the kits.   Any ideas?

My apologies if you have seen this post before as it has been sent to another group.

 

 

Regards

Rob McLear

Kingaroy Australia.


Re: Sandblasting for models, resin and brass

Dennis Williams
 

I use a sand blast cabinet from Harbor Freight. Close to 20 years. The problem with the small ones is that you would loose the medium and it will take a long time to do a model. If you have a lot of work to do, I would suggest the cabinet at around 50psi.  Best medium,  Alum Oxide.
 
Dennis Williams/Owner

From: "rob.mclear3@..."
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, September 7, 2013 10:59 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Sandblasting for models, resin and brass
 
Hi to all

Have any of you out there used any of the model sandblasters to remove paint and other assorted rubbish from brass models.   I have seen two one is a Badger and the other a Pasche.   I am trying to figure out if it is worth my while to purchase one of these and how easy they are to operate.   I have a lot of brass and resin freight cars that needs to be stripped and repainted and the stripping agents seem to be either very harsh to work or don't work at all.   The other problem with resin is of course what has been pointed out here recently regarding differing materials in the kits.   Any ideas?
My apologies if you have seen this post before as it has been sent to another group.


Regards
Rob McLear
Kingaroy Australia.


Re: Tichy open grid roof walks (Running boards)

Clark Propst
 

My only gripe with the Tichy RBs is that they didn't cast a cross piece at the end. You have to cut the 'fingers' off each end. This makes them a bit short.

Clark Propst


Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

Michael Watnoski
 

Greetings,

Another product similar to canopy cement is Alene's Tacky glue. It may be more readily available. Wal-Mart also has pack of 5 different versions of this in sample size bottles.

Michael


Re: NYC Boxcar question

Eric Lombard
 

I am posting this fearing the "wall of text" and using the "Rich Text
Editor"

Your tentative ID of the upside down, single-sheathed car as belonging
to the IC has a reasonable probability being correct. Here is some more
information that points in that direction. The IC had 5000
single-sheathed cars built in 1914 with a side pattern of

|-|/|/[ ]&#92;|&#92;|-|

matching the wrecked car. This pattern, with a single horizontal strap
binding the corner post is much less common than having two diagonal
straps:

|<|/|/[ ]&#92;|&#92;|>|

The ends, were like that of the wrecked car, as far as can be seen. Also
the serial number fragment works.

The IC cars were built for the CStL&NO subsidiary. they were 40'-6",
8'-6", 8'-3", Cuft 2868 and Capy 80000 with fishbelly center sills :
170001-171500, 1450, ACF, lot 7480, 50, lot 7480A
171501-173000, 1500, WSC
173001-174000, 1000, SSC
174001-175000, 1000, H&B

The S. Wydeck collection on the Fallen Flags site has a photo:
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/acfx/ic171500asw.jpg

Eric Lombard



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Douglas Harding" wrote:

Had someone ask me if I knew any details about this photo: Ebay item
181209034658

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-postcard-RPPC-M-STL-Railroad-wreck-Minne\;
sota
-1911-/181209034658?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
a-1911-/181209034658?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a30e66fa2>
&hash=item2a30e66fa2



It shows a wreck labeled "M&SL Wreck" Minnesota 1911, but I don't
think the
date is correct. Two NYC boxcars, both from the 215*** series, are on
the
track, appear to be set up to receive salvage from the wreck. And it
appears
someone has penciled in a name or note pointing to the fellow standing
on
the platform. I can make out the caboose cupola in the background. The
NYC
cars are double sheath wood cars with steel ends. I don't believe they
are
USRA DS boxcars, doesn't have the correct metal braces on the sides.
From > Terry's website
http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/NYC-MODELS-FREIGHT2.htm I
determined the following: The NYC herald was in use from 1905 to 1935.
NYC
215524 was built by WSC&F in 1904 as a 36' wood boxcar with wood
underframe.
NYC 215000-215999, ex NYC&HR cars 94000-94999. Lettered for NYC
reporting
marks 1916-1935. Which puts the photo taken sometime after 1916. They
were
2448 cu ft, 40 ton, 6' door.



The wrecked cars are wood sided, wood ends. The one with the people on
it
has a partial end reporting mark slightly visible: looks like I C
1704** or
1784** the lettering is split by a post. I can see rivets or bolt
heads down
the corner and a steel strap about the middle of the car side, like a
Fowler
boxcar, but not sure about the roof, looks like it might be a Murphy
roof.



The M&StL purchased 500 Fowler Clones in 1916, 18000-18999. But I
don't have
information as to the type of roof they had. They also purchased 1000
40'
wood DS Murphy AM roof cars in 1917, 19000-20999.



Can anyone offer any further information about the cars?



Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org


Re: model paint in aerosol cans

Jack Mullen
 

Ken,
Choose the Online Catalog, then select Paints/Cements from the dropdown menu of categories. If there's a color chart anywhere, I haven't found it.

And this is Yahoo weird, now the Reply function is working as it used to, starting with a copy of the note replied to.

Jack Mullen

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, va661midlo@... wrote:

Jack,

Where is it on their website? I could not find it.

Ken Montero

----- Original Message -----
From: "moonmuln" <jack.f.mullen@...>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 7, 2013 7:28:34 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] model paint in aerosol cans







Ed,
Star Line paint is made by/for and sold by P-B-L. www.p-b-l.com Good stuff.
Jack Mullen

Ed Mines wrote:

Thanks for your reply. Where can I get them? Who's the manufacturer?
Ed,
Try your friends at Star Brand Paints. You are looking for Sunburnt >> BCR & Weathered Black
Tom VanWormer
And concerning Neo, now it seems that when I do a REPLY, Yahoo doesn't copy the previous text into the response box as it used to. Oh well, can do a cut-paste, as I did above.
Jack


Re: model paint in aerosol cans

Kenneth Montero
 

Jack,

Where is it on their website?  I could not find it.

Ken Montero



From: "moonmuln"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, September 7, 2013 7:28:34 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] model paint in aerosol cans

 


Ed,
Star Line paint is made by/for and sold by P-B-L. www.p-b-l.com Good stuff.
Jack Mullen

Ed Mines wrote:

> Thanks for your reply. Where can I get them? Who's the manufacturer?

>> Ed,
>> Try your friends at Star Brand Paints. You are looking for Sunburnt >> BCR & Weathered Black
>> Tom VanWormer

And concerning Neo, now it seems that when I do a REPLY, Yahoo doesn't copy the previous text into the response box as it used to. Oh well, can do a cut-paste, as I did above.
Jack


Re: Canopy Glue and watch crystal cement - was Tichy open grid roof walks

Kenneth Montero
 

Dear Colleagues,

Much has been said in this group about the virtues of canopy glue. 

I have used (once) a product call G-S Hypo Cement (used for attaching watch crystals to watches, among other things) on dissimilar materials, with similar results to those using canopy glue. It has a thin nozzle applicator. It is made by G-S Supplies, Inc., of Rochester, New York.

Has anyone else used it, and what have been the results?

Ken Montero



From: "Tony Thompson"
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, September 7, 2013 7:48:05 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

 

Tony...Is Canopy Glue a generic name...Is there one brand better than an other for our uses....Thanks...Larry Mennie

       Yes, that's the generic name. I wrote about this in a blog post, which covers brands. If interested, you can see it at:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history





Re: Sandblasting for models, resin and brass

Clive Riley
 

Hi Rob –

 

Yes – I use the Pasche unit (not the air eraser version) adapted to work inside of a small Hare & Forbes blasting cabinet . Its essential to keep the grit medium  contained for health and cost

reasons.

 

There are numerous grit options avl ranging from baking powder thru to aluminium carbide and I’ve used both glass beads & aluminium carbide – preferring the latter. Be aware that usually

It pays to strip most of the paint off brass prior to blasting which of course means complete stripping initially to reduce contamination of the grit medium which degrades overtime anyhow.

If not careful when blasting your piece of brass like a tender side, you can make distort it slightly since it will grow in size slightly given that using glass beads is in a way akin to shot peening.

 

I’ve not taken to using it on resin kits yet but see no reason why it wouldn’t work assuming a less aggressive grit such as baking powder was used.

 

I like to use Scalecoat paints and when the paint is applied over a blasted model and then baked it takes a lot to remove the original paint.  One downside of grit blasting is the level of cleaning

that is required after a trip thru the blast cabinet – it gets everywhere on the model!! An ultrasonic cleaner definitely helps here.

 

Anyhow, feel free to ctc me off-line I’m a bit South of you at Glen Innes.

 

RGds/Clive Riley.

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of rob.mclear3@...
Sent: Sunday, 8 September 2013 12:59 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Sandblasting for models, resin and brass

 

 

Hi to all

 

Have any of you out there used any of the model sandblasters to remove paint and other assorted rubbish from brass models.   I have seen two one is a Badger and the other a Pasche.   I am trying to figure out if it is worth my while to purchase one of these and how easy they are to operate.   I have a lot of brass and resin freight cars that needs to be stripped and repainted and the stripping agents seem to be either very harsh to work or don't work at all.   The other problem with resin is of course what has been pointed out here recently regarding differing materials in the kits.   Any ideas?

My apologies if you have seen this post before as it has been sent to another group.

 

 

Regards

Rob McLear

Kingaroy Australia.


Sandblasting for models, resin and brass

rob.mclear3@...
 

Hi to all


Have any of you out there used any of the model sandblasters to remove paint and other assorted rubbish from brass models.   I have seen two one is a Badger and the other a Pasche.   I am trying to figure out if it is worth my while to purchase one of these and how easy they are to operate.   I have a lot of brass and resin freight cars that needs to be stripped and repainted and the stripping agents seem to be either very harsh to work or don't work at all.   The other problem with resin is of course what has been pointed out here recently regarding differing materials in the kits.   Any ideas?
My apologies if you have seen this post before as it has been sent to another group.


Regards
Rob McLear
Kingaroy Australia.


Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

mrprksr <mrprksr@...>
 

Thanks Tony....Larry Mennie


From: Tony Thompson
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, September 7, 2013 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

 
Tony...Is Canopy Glue a generic name...Is there one brand better than an other for our uses....Thanks...Larry Mennie

       Yes, that's the generic name. I wrote about this in a blog post, which covers brands. If interested, you can see it at:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history







Re: model paint in aerosol cans

Harry <harrybh@...>
 

Scalecoat II still produces aerosol cans of their plastic compatible paints. For a catalog go to weavermodels.com.

Harry B Houchins
Eugene, Oregon


Re: Tichy open grid roof walks

Tony Thompson
 

Tony...Is Canopy Glue a generic name...Is there one brand better than an other for our uses....Thanks...Larry Mennie

       Yes, that's the generic name. I wrote about this in a blog post, which covers brands. If interested, you can see it at:


Tony Thompson             Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705         www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history




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