Date   

Re: My first airbrush

Bruce Smith
 

Fenton,

While you can use a double action airbrush with acrylics, I usually recommend that folks use a single action brush. The reason is that the double action allows you to blow air through the brush. This will dry any paint in the brush and presto! you have a clog.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
________________________________________
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [STMFC@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of O Fenton Wells [srrfan1401@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:50 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [STMFC] My first airbrush

Gentlemen, I too am going to the acrylic paints with dragging feet and
needing a big push. I have done a few acrylic paint jobs and one went
pretty well and the others were OK but I didn't feel I got the same results
as with Lacquer based paints, Floquil and Scalecoat, especially on resin
kits. I did like the ability to do a three color diesel in one evening
with the help of a hair dryer. I have used a Binks Wren B airbrush since
1972 when I was trained. What is the best airbrush recommendation for
spraying acrylics I have a double action Paasche Millennium internal mix
siphon feed brush that I have never used.
I welcome thoughts and suggestions from those who have been successful with
acrylics. Unfortunatly I feel the problem is really me as I have a habit,
when I'm comfortable with something and will hesitate to try new things. I
have not gotten comfortable with acrylics....yet.
Fenton Wells


On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 10:37 AM, Jack Burgess <jack@yosemitevalleyrr.com>wrote:

**


I used Badger air brushes for years, first single-action and then
dual-action. The dual-action ones require that you do two things at the
same
time...push down on the button to control the amount of air and pull back
to
control the amount of paint. It sounds very difficult. But the problem I
had
with the single-action air brushes (where the amount of paint is controlled
by a screw adjustment) is that I'd carefully set the screw adjustment to
produce a very thin line of paint and once I started spraying, the tip
would
clog just a little and the air brush would stop painting and I'd need to
stop and adjust it again. If you feel that you could start with a
double-action air brush, I'd recommend that you do.

Bruce's advise about acrylics is good. I started out air-brushing Floquil
(and Scalecoat for brass) and still use Floquil, regardless of complaints
about color quality control. (When Testors announced the discontinuance of
Floquil, I put in a $200 order with Caboose Hobbies of the colors I use the
most...I think that I'll have enough to finish my stash of 100 resin
kits.)

All of the Badger air brushes were siphon-feed air brushes. After using a
couple of types of Badger air brushes for nearly four decades, I bought a
gravity-feed Iwata air brush after trying it out at a NMRA Train Show. With
Floquil, I have found that I don't need to dilute the paint with thinner to
air brush it...that saves paint since you shouldn't pour diluted paint back
into the bottle (although I've been known to do that). I think that the
Iwata air brush is a superior brand but, for most of us, it might depend
mostly on what you started out with...I was generally happy with the Badger
air brushes but I'm not intimidated by trying something new (unless it is
acrylic paints). <g>

Jack Burgess

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@gmail.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Watermelon traffic in Southeast

Tony Thompson
 

Al Kresse wrote:
The late Gene Huddleston , photographer, writer and professor, worked summers at Russell during post-WW2 era as an assistant clerk. Even into his eighties he said he could remember the horrible smell of decaying chunks of watermelon left in the cars coming back from Chicago getting ready to be assembled into a train heading down the Chinchfield Route back to Florida. Reefers would have been cleaned out.
Then Gene should have opened some "empty" reefer doors to see what was inside. Reefers were often sent back "empty" with not only remnants of packing crates, etc. inside, but any damaged or spoiled produce too. Certainly PFE had to clean out reefers when they arrived back west, and fumigate them too if varmints had gotten a little colony going. Rotten produce was very common.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: My first airbrush

Andy Sperandeo
 

I've been using Badger 200 airbrushes to spray acrylic paints for several years now. This is a good "intermediate" airbrush, in that it has a single action control but sprays through an intermal-mix nozzle. It's easy to use and relatively easy to keep clean (I think the single-action external-mix brushes, like the Paasche H, are the easiest to clean), and of course cleaning is the most important thing in using any airbrush. Clark's advice about taking it to the sink is exactly on point. I used to be able to do that in the MR workshop at Kalmbach, and I really should buy myself a longer hose so I can reach the sink at home too. 

So long,

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: My first airbrush

Brian <cornbeltroute@...>
 

Keith,

I see others here are discussing air brushes (haven't yet had a chance to read 'em). Also, the yahoo group at "traintools" discusses air brushes regularly.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/traintools/?yguid=225428826

-Brian Chapman
Evansdale, Iowa

I see the need to plan to acquire an airbrush for my modeling efforts. This may be off topic for this group but I was wondering if you all have any input on what direction I should go. <


Re: Watermelon traffic in Southeast

Ray Breyer
 

From: Joel-Geri Dee <geridee1@yahoo.com>
Beyond the normal dumping of the floor sand base,Why would the stock cars
need cleaning?  Melons grow in dung and are rinsed and waxed for resale before
showing up on the store rack.

Thank the Pure Food Act of 1906 for not going blind from trichinosis while enjoying a picnic watermelon.

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL


Re: Watermelon traffic in Southeast

Mark Drake <markstation01@...>
 

Seriously, it's not the same...growing in fertilizer vs. laying in a pile of crap. I just had to ask, as clean laden box cars are stenciled as such and would expect food to be transported as clean as possible.


Mark L. Drake
eBay ID member1108


________________________________
From: Joel-Geri Dee <geridee1@yahoo.com>
To: "STMFC@yahoogroups.com" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Watermelon traffic in Southeast

 
Beyond the normal dumping of the floor sand base,Why would the stock cars need cleaning?  Melons grow in dung and are rinsed and waxed for resale before showing up on the store rack.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: My first airbrush

Mark Drake <markstation01@...>
 

Great info Dennis, my old 200 could use a tune-up


Mark L. Drake
eBay ID member1108


________________________________
From: Dennis Williams <pennsy6200@yahoo.com>
To: "STMFC@yahoogroups.com" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] My first airbrush

 
Keith
  I own 6 airbrushes.  Out of the 6, I have 2 Badger 150s.  I wore the 1st one out.  By the way, it was one of the first 150s.  I bought one direct from Badger at their "garage sale" for $35.00.  I told Dino at Badger, about the airbrush and he wanted to see it.  I sent it out and a week or so it returned.  They totally rebuilt it.  I called and asked what the price was on the rebuild and he said the airbrush was garrenteed for life.  What a deal!!!!

Dennis Williams/Owner
http://www.resinbuilders4u.com/


________________________________
From: Bruce F. Smith <mailto:smithbf%40auburn.edu>
To: "mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com" <mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:32 AM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] My first airbrush


 

Keith,

What airbrush to use is a topic akin to religion. Everyone has their own idea of what is best. Likely, we'll now hear a long litany of "I use XYZ and love it..." with more brands named than you can count. Instead of doing that, I suggest that you do two things. Fist think about versatility. You may not use acrylics right now, for example, but that is definitely the trend in the paint industry, so you might want to purchase an airbrush designed to work well with them. Second, test drive a few to see how YOU like them. (Oh and there are lengthy discussions in the archives on how to best use any number of airbrushes)

Regards
Bruce (a Badger 220 user)
Bruce Smith
Auburn AL
________________________________________
From: mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com] on behalf of hvyweight41 [mailto:hvyweight41%40yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 12:47 AM
To: mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] My first airbrush

I see the need to plan to acquire an airbrush for my modeling efforts. This may be off topic for this group but I was wondering if you all have any input on what direction I should go. If off topic, feel free to contact me off list.
I already have a compressor in my garage. I'm looking at the A7778 Metal Body Airbrushby Testor. It's probably more than I need right now, but I figure I'll grow into it. I've seen other brands like Badger, Paasche and Iwata. All get good reviews. I'm sure there are favorites out there. Oh, I will be using it for general painting as well weathering.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Watermelon traffic in Southeast

water.kresse@...
 

Guy,

 

The late Gene Huddleston , photographer, writer and professor, worked summers at Russell during post-WW2 era as an assistant clerk.  Even into his eighties he said he could remember the horrible smell of decaying chunks of watermelon left in the cars coming back from Chicago getting ready to be assembled into a train heading down the Chinchfield Route back to Florida.  Reefers would have been cleaned out.

 

Conversely, ventilated boxes with watermelons heading north during the hot summers had to be checked out by yard crews for over-ripe produce that needed to pulled out to save the rest . . . . but those somehow were not bad enough to not be thrown out.

 

Al Kresse.

----- Original Message -----




From: guycwilber @ aol .com
To: STMFC @ yahoogroups .com
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 1:15:28 AM
Subject: Re: [ STMFC ] Watermelon traffic in Southeast

Roger,
 
A 1946 USDA study in which the AAR's Freight Claim Division was a  
participant stated that the majority of watermelons shipped from Florida were  
loaded into ventilated box cars, though both refrigerator and stock cars  were
also used.  Stock car shipments of watermelons were dominant from the  other
Southern states, but also were supplemented by refrigerator and  ventilator
cars along with a regular box car now and then.
 
In 1951, your year of modeling interest, there were 25,536  car loads of
watermelons shipped.  Just two years earlier,  a 1949 study showed that the
dominant variety of watermelons from  the Southeast was the Black Diamond.  
That study examined watermelons  delivered to 43 markets nationwide.  Of the
6,776 cars inspected  for damage; 1,274 were ventilated box cars, 3,788 were
stock cars, 1,712 were  refrigerator cars and 2 were box cars.  
Unfortunately,  the tabulation does not show the break down of the car  types from the
various regions though it does show that 1,369 of the  6,776 cars originated
from the Southeast.
 
Regarding your thoughts on the harvest of watermelons.  The Florida  
harvest generally ran from May 1st thru mid August with June being the most  
productive month usually totaling over 75% of Florida's annual crop.
 
Guy Wilber
Reno, Nevada
 
 
 
  



 
 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Watermelon traffic in Southeast

james murrie
 

Stock cars may have been some of the cleanest cars on the road. They were thoroughly cleaned between loads of livestock. No shipper would want to have his stock contaminated by something from the previous load! That worn and weathered paint was as much a result of steam cleaning as anything else.
jim Murrie

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Mark Drake <markstation01@...> wrote:

One would assume the stock car was thoroughly cleaned prior to any food product being transported in it???

Mark L. Drake
eBay ID member1108


________________________________
From: "guycwilber@..." <guycwilber@...>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 1:15 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Watermelon traffic in Southeast

 

Roger,

A 1946 USDA study in which the AAR's Freight Claim Division was a
participant stated that the majority of watermelons shipped from Florida were
loaded into ventilated box cars, though both refrigerator and stock cars were
also used. Stock car shipments of watermelons were dominant from the other
Southern states, but also were supplemented by refrigerator and ventilator
cars along with a regular box car now and then.

In 1951, your year of modeling interest, there were 25,536 car loads of
watermelons shipped. Just two years earlier, a 1949 study showed that the
dominant variety of watermelons from the Southeast was the Black Diamond.
That study examined watermelons delivered to 43 markets nationwide. Of the
6,776 cars inspected for damage; 1,274 were ventilated box cars, 3,788 were
stock cars, 1,712 were refrigerator cars and 2 were box cars.
Unfortunately, the tabulation does not show the break down of the car types from the
various regions though it does show that 1,369 of the 6,776 cars originated
from the Southeast.

Regarding your thoughts on the harvest of watermelons. The Florida
harvest generally ran from May 1st thru mid August with June being the most
productive month usually totaling over 75% of Florida's annual crop.

Guy Wilber
Reno, Nevada





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: My first airbrush

O Fenton Wells
 

Gentlemen, I too am going to the acrylic paints with dragging feet and
needing a big push. I have done a few acrylic paint jobs and one went
pretty well and the others were OK but I didn't feel I got the same results
as with Lacquer based paints, Floquil and Scalecoat, especially on resin
kits. I did like the ability to do a three color diesel in one evening
with the help of a hair dryer. I have used a Binks Wren B airbrush since
1972 when I was trained. What is the best airbrush recommendation for
spraying acrylics I have a double action Paasche Millennium internal mix
siphon feed brush that I have never used.
I welcome thoughts and suggestions from those who have been successful with
acrylics. Unfortunatly I feel the problem is really me as I have a habit,
when I'm comfortable with something and will hesitate to try new things. I
have not gotten comfortable with acrylics....yet.
Fenton Wells


On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 10:37 AM, Jack Burgess <jack@yosemitevalleyrr.com>wrote:

**


I used Badger air brushes for years, first single-action and then
dual-action. The dual-action ones require that you do two things at the
same
time...push down on the button to control the amount of air and pull back
to
control the amount of paint. It sounds very difficult. But the problem I
had
with the single-action air brushes (where the amount of paint is controlled
by a screw adjustment) is that I'd carefully set the screw adjustment to
produce a very thin line of paint and once I started spraying, the tip
would
clog just a little and the air brush would stop painting and I'd need to
stop and adjust it again. If you feel that you could start with a
double-action air brush, I'd recommend that you do.

Bruce's advise about acrylics is good. I started out air-brushing Floquil
(and Scalecoat for brass) and still use Floquil, regardless of complaints
about color quality control. (When Testors announced the discontinuance of
Floquil, I put in a $200 order with Caboose Hobbies of the colors I use the
most...I think that I'll have enough to finish my stash of 100 resin
kits.)

All of the Badger air brushes were siphon-feed air brushes. After using a
couple of types of Badger air brushes for nearly four decades, I bought a
gravity-feed Iwata air brush after trying it out at a NMRA Train Show. With
Floquil, I have found that I don't need to dilute the paint with thinner to
air brush it...that saves paint since you shouldn't pour diluted paint back
into the bottle (although I've been known to do that). I think that the
Iwata air brush is a superior brand but, for most of us, it might depend
mostly on what you started out with...I was generally happy with the Badger
air brushes but I'm not intimidated by trying something new (unless it is
acrylic paints). <g>

Jack Burgess

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@gmail.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: My first airbrush

Jack Burgess
 

I used Badger air brushes for years, first single-action and then
dual-action. The dual-action ones require that you do two things at the same
time...push down on the button to control the amount of air and pull back to
control the amount of paint. It sounds very difficult. But the problem I had
with the single-action air brushes (where the amount of paint is controlled
by a screw adjustment) is that I'd carefully set the screw adjustment to
produce a very thin line of paint and once I started spraying, the tip would
clog just a little and the air brush would stop painting and I'd need to
stop and adjust it again. If you feel that you could start with a
double-action air brush, I'd recommend that you do.

Bruce's advise about acrylics is good. I started out air-brushing Floquil
(and Scalecoat for brass) and still use Floquil, regardless of complaints
about color quality control. (When Testors announced the discontinuance of
Floquil, I put in a $200 order with Caboose Hobbies of the colors I use the
most...I think that I'll have enough to finish my stash of 100 resin kits.)

All of the Badger air brushes were siphon-feed air brushes. After using a
couple of types of Badger air brushes for nearly four decades, I bought a
gravity-feed Iwata air brush after trying it out at a NMRA Train Show. With
Floquil, I have found that I don't need to dilute the paint with thinner to
air brush it...that saves paint since you shouldn't pour diluted paint back
into the bottle (although I've been known to do that). I think that the
Iwata air brush is a superior brand but, for most of us, it might depend
mostly on what you started out with...I was generally happy with the Badger
air brushes but I'm not intimidated by trying something new (unless it is
acrylic paints). <g>

Jack Burgess


Re: My first airbrush

Dennis Williams
 

Keith
  I own 6 airbrushes.  Out of the 6, I have 2 Badger 150s.  I wore the 1st one out.  By the way, it was one of the first 150s.  I bought one direct from Badger at their "garage sale" for $35.00.  I told Dino at Badger, about the airbrush and he wanted to see it.  I sent it out and a week or so it returned.  They totally rebuilt it.  I called and asked what the price was on the rebuild and he said the airbrush was garrenteed for life.  What a deal!!!!

Dennis Williams/Owner
http://www.resinbuilders4u.com/


________________________________
From: Bruce F. Smith <smithbf@auburn.edu>
To: "STMFC@yahoogroups.com" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:32 AM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] My first airbrush


 

Keith,

What airbrush to use is a topic akin to religion. Everyone has their own idea of what is best. Likely, we'll now hear a long litany of "I use XYZ and love it..." with more brands named than you can count. Instead of doing that, I suggest that you do two things. Fist think about versatility. You may not use acrylics right now, for example, but that is definitely the trend in the paint industry, so you might want to purchase an airbrush designed to work well with them. Second, test drive a few to see how YOU like them. (Oh and there are lengthy discussions in the archives on how to best use any number of airbrushes)

Regards
Bruce (a Badger 220 user)
Bruce Smith
Auburn AL
________________________________________
From: mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com] on behalf of hvyweight41 [mailto:hvyweight41%40yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 12:47 AM
To: mailto:STMFC%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] My first airbrush

I see the need to plan to acquire an airbrush for my modeling efforts. This may be off topic for this group but I was wondering if you all have any input on what direction I should go. If off topic, feel free to contact me off list.
I already have a compressor in my garage. I'm looking at the A7778 Metal Body Airbrushby Testor. It's probably more than I need right now, but I figure I'll grow into it. I've seen other brands like Badger, Paasche and Iwata. All get good reviews. I'm sure there are favorites out there. Oh, I will be using it for general painting as well weathering.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Watermelon traffic in Southeast

O Fenton Wells
 

Interesting information Guy, thanks for sharing.
Fenton Wells

On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 1:15 AM, <guycwilber@aol.com> wrote:

**


Roger,

A 1946 USDA study in which the AAR's Freight Claim Division was a
participant stated that the majority of watermelons shipped from Florida
were
loaded into ventilated box cars, though both refrigerator and stock cars
were
also used. Stock car shipments of watermelons were dominant from the other
Southern states, but also were supplemented by refrigerator and ventilator
cars along with a regular box car now and then.

In 1951, your year of modeling interest, there were 25,536 car loads of
watermelons shipped. Just two years earlier, a 1949 study showed that the
dominant variety of watermelons from the Southeast was the Black Diamond.
That study examined watermelons delivered to 43 markets nationwide. Of the
6,776 cars inspected for damage; 1,274 were ventilated box cars, 3,788
were
stock cars, 1,712 were refrigerator cars and 2 were box cars.
Unfortunately, the tabulation does not show the break down of the car
types from the
various regions though it does show that 1,369 of the 6,776 cars
originated
from the Southeast.

Regarding your thoughts on the harvest of watermelons. The Florida
harvest generally ran from May 1st thru mid August with June being the
most
productive month usually totaling over 75% of Florida's annual crop.

Guy Wilber
Reno, Nevada





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




--
Fenton Wells
5 Newberry Lane
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-1144
srrfan1401@gmail.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: My first airbrush

Bruce Smith
 

Keith,

What airbrush to use is a topic akin to religion. Everyone has their own idea of what is best. Likely, we'll now hear a long litany of "I use XYZ and love it..." with more brands named than you can count. Instead of doing that, I suggest that you do two things. Fist think about versatility. You may not use acrylics right now, for example, but that is definitely the trend in the paint industry, so you might want to purchase an airbrush designed to work well with them. Second, test drive a few to see how YOU like them. (Oh and there are lengthy discussions in the archives on how to best use any number of airbrushes)

Regards
Bruce (a Badger 220 user)
Bruce Smith
Auburn AL
________________________________________
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [STMFC@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of hvyweight41 [hvyweight41@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 12:47 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] My first airbrush

I see the need to plan to acquire an airbrush for my modeling efforts. This may be off topic for this group but I was wondering if you all have any input on what direction I should go. If off topic, feel free to contact me off list.
I already have a compressor in my garage. I'm looking at the A7778 Metal Body Airbrushby Testor. It's probably more than I need right now, but I figure I'll grow into it. I've seen other brands like Badger, Paasche and Iwata. All get good reviews. I'm sure there are favorites out there. Oh, I will be using it for general painting as well weathering.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Spotting features

John
 

Keith:

What I have done is to invest in a fairly large selection of parts. I have one of those WalMart 4-drawer plastic storage units that has 12"x12"x2-1/2" drawers.

The top drawer contains freight car trucks of all sorts and sized (I just ordered 9 more various trucks from Tahoe). The second drawer contains roofs, running boards and underframes (varous sources), the third drawer contains doors, ends and bagged detail parts (ladders, tack board, and other side & end details), the fourth drawer is random parts that I did not use when building models (it contains anything you can think of).

I do have two other containers. One is about the size of a Plano 3700 tackle box, but has no dividers. That contains all brake parts (AB, ABD, KC and KD), brake wheels and other details such as brake rods, retainer valves, brake platforms, etc.

The last container is a small divided tackle box, the kind you store hooks in. One compartment has eye bolts, one angle grabs (the type on the roof corners - also usable for some cabooses), one has curved caboose side grabs, one has straight grab irons from 11" to 36" long (scale inches), one has drop grabs (mainly 19" but others too) and one has coupler cut levers.

Now before you ask how much did that all cost, remember that I don't smoke or drink, so the money someone would waste on cigarettes or booze go into parts and these parts have been collected over a 30-year period.

The best place to get started getting these parts is the Detail Associates section of the Walthers catalog, Tichy trains and, hidden on the Atlas website is all the old Branchline Trains details parts.

Also, go to train shows. You have a great one in JAX each year, and look through the "junk" vendors. You can buy lots of parts and even whole kits dirt cheap. Undecorated kits are usually plentiful and cost less than decorated ones. So even if I don't need a C&BT shops boxcar today, for $2 or $3, I'll grab it for future projects or even parts. When Branchline sold their RR cars to Atlas, I bought every undecorated Branchline kit I could get my hands on (probably have 10 or 15). Finaly, as I alluded above, I never throw out parts (except plastic wheels and hook-horn couplers) but toss them in the parts drawer. That is the first place I go for detail parts for a model I am working on.

-- John

P.S. Almost forgot. Have two other Plano 3700 boxes. One full of Kadee, P2k and Intermountain wheel sets and the other is full of Kadee couplers, although I mostly use the "Scale" whisker couplers these days, but I have at least a few pairs of each model they make if I have a difficult fit (e.g., front coupler on a steam engine).


Re: My first airbrush

Clark Propst
 

Keith,
I'm sure you'll get plenty of recommendations for the best airbrush to paint and weather your freight cars with.

I've used a Paasche H for years. The thing is a tank. I have siphon lids made up for the common paint brands. I unscrew the paint bottle lid, screw on the appropriate siphon lid, stick it on the airbrush and paint. If I'm painting a car more than one color I start with the lightest color and work darker to avoid cleaning the brush between colors. After painting I clean by squirt brake cleaner through the brush and lid. The average cars takes less than 10 mins. to paint. Start to finish. I do disassemble and clean the airbrush in lacquer thinner a couple times a year if I'm doing a lot of rolling stock.

PS This approach doesn't work well with acrylics. If I use them I have enough air hose to get to a sink so I can flush clean the brush and lid with water.

That's my bottom of the barrel simple and quick approach...
Clark Propst


Re: Watermelon traffic in Southeast

JoelDee
 

Beyond the normal dumping of the floor sand base,Why would the stock cars need cleaning?  Melons grow in dung and are rinsed and waxed for resale before showing up on the store rack.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Watermelon traffic in Southeast

Mark Drake <markstation01@...>
 

One would assume the stock car was thoroughly cleaned prior to any food product being transported in it???

Mark L. Drake
eBay ID member1108


________________________________
From: "guycwilber@aol.com" <guycwilber@aol.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 1:15 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Watermelon traffic in Southeast

 

Roger,

A 1946 USDA study in which the AAR's Freight Claim Division was a
participant stated that the majority of watermelons shipped from Florida were
loaded into ventilated box cars, though both refrigerator and stock cars were
also used. Stock car shipments of watermelons were dominant from the other
Southern states, but also were supplemented by refrigerator and ventilator
cars along with a regular box car now and then.

In 1951, your year of modeling interest, there were 25,536 car loads of
watermelons shipped. Just two years earlier, a 1949 study showed that the
dominant variety of watermelons from the Southeast was the Black Diamond.
That study examined watermelons delivered to 43 markets nationwide. Of the
6,776 cars inspected for damage; 1,274 were ventilated box cars, 3,788 were
stock cars, 1,712 were refrigerator cars and 2 were box cars.
Unfortunately, the tabulation does not show the break down of the car types from the
various regions though it does show that 1,369 of the 6,776 cars originated
from the Southeast.

Regarding your thoughts on the harvest of watermelons. The Florida
harvest generally ran from May 1st thru mid August with June being the most
productive month usually totaling over 75% of Florida's annual crop.

Guy Wilber
Reno, Nevada





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My first airbrush

hvyweight41
 

I see the need to plan to acquire an airbrush for my modeling efforts. This may be off topic for this group but I was wondering if you all have any input on what direction I should go. If off topic, feel free to contact me off list.
I already have a compressor in my garage. I'm looking at the A7778 Metal Body Airbrushby Testor. It's probably more than I need right now, but I figure I'll grow into it. I've seen other brands like Badger, Paasche and Iwata. All get good reviews. I'm sure there are favorites out there. Oh, I will be using it for general painting as well weathering.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL


Re: Spotting features

hvyweight41
 

Richard-
I am a member of the SFRHMS. I have amassed a large library of reference books, including many written by yourself. I've only read a small portion of them in detail. My primary intent of this post was to find the best place to start. I can identify what type of car (box, hopper, etc) and size. I can generally identify the railroad. I can identify general types of construction for sides and ends. I can tell a sliding door from a plug type. I'm weak on roofs. When it comes to detaIls, do you focus on stirrup styles, brake system details, brake wheels, roof walks, etc? Should I focus on details or take a broader stroke first? Like so many other things in our world, it is probably another "it depends" situation. I'm trying see where I should focus my attention first. All of the feedback has been great.
Thanks,
Keith Kempster
Jacksonville, FL

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:

On Jul 26, 2013, at 6:04 PM, "John Sykes" <John.Sykes@...> wrote:
Keith:

[snip]

Now, the one thing you definitely have going for you is that you are doing Santa Fe, which, like PRR has a huge following of modelers and other fanatics. So you should be in the same situation, where you can get diagrams, rosters, photos, paint and lettering information too. You might have to look, but I guarantee it is out there.

John is right, and the place to start is with the Santa Fe Railway Historical and Modeling Society, which is having its annual meeting next weekend in Flagstaff AZ. Flagstaff is a long way from Jacksonville, but the society is as near as its web site <http://www.atsfrr.com>. The society has a long list of books in print, including its Rolling Stock Reference Series, as well as a variety of on site resources.


Richard Hendrickson



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