Date   

Missouri Pacific Historical Society

asychis@...
 

Hi Folks,
 
As a reminder, the Missouri Pacific Historical Society will meet in Pueblo, Colorado, on October 10-13.  One thing of note is that we will have speakers discussing American Refrigerator Transit Company (ART) steam-era operations in Pueblo and Colorado, and a Missouri Pacific RPM.  If you are interested in attending, please go to www.mopac.org, or e-mail me off-line for questions and schedule. Thanks! 
 
Jerry Michels 


Re: Small drill bits

Bill Welch
 

A couple of years ago I purchased a scriber at a hobby shop that stocks military kits as well as RR items. These are popular with aircraft modelers. The tip is very sharp and needle shaped and make a very good impression for a #79 drill bit. It come with a spare tip and replacements are available. I cannot remember the name but I am pretty sure I identified it by Googling "styrene scriber." If there is no local hobby shop suggest looking at Sprue Brothers or Squadron, two very large sellers of military models.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Michael Watnoski <freestatesystems1@...> wrote:

Greetings,

I make small center punches from sewing
needles as straight pins are too soft. I drill a
small dowel and force the eye into the hole. I
usually make a bunch at a time and pass them out
to club members. They are a good general purpose
tool for marking, scribing prodding, poking
decals, etc..

Michael


Re: Small drill bits

Michael Watnoski
 

Greetings,

I make small center punches from sewing needles as straight pins are too soft. I drill a small dowel and force the eye into the hole. I usually make a bunch at a time and pass them out to club members. They are a good general purpose tool for marking, scribing prodding, poking decals, etc..

Michael


Re: Small drill bits

Scott H. Haycock
 

Hi Scott, 

I use a sewing needle chucked in a pinvise. This is the same technique as drilling the hole... same tool... same finger motion as lining up the drill bit. Good light, a vision aid, if needed, and steady hand rests for holding both the part you are drilling into,as well as the hand holding the pin vise,  are all solid modeling concepts one should learn as a matter of course. Practice on a scrap of styrene until you get the hang of it.   

Scott Haycock
Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm
ent

 

How do you keep the drill bit from wandering in such a small piece of resin when trying to get the drill bit started?


Do you use a sewing needle to make a spot to start?  I have always struggled with that.


Scott McDonald

Fort Collins, CO



-


Re: Small drill bits

Aley, Jeff A
 

I should also note that I have a book on my desk at work. The book is entitled, “Build a Better Life by Stealing Office Supplies”.

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Aley, Jeff A
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 11:22 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Small drill bits

 

 

I use a push-pin -  you know, the kind you use in bulletin boards.  I had to dig through the box to find one with a decent tip.  I think I learned that from someone here on STMFC.

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of North Model Railroad Supplies
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 11:16 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Small drill bits

 

 

How do you keep the drill bit from wandering in such a small
piece of resin when trying to get the drill bit started?
Do you use a sewing needle to make a spot to start? I have
always struggled with that.
Scott McDonald



 

I use one of the point removed from a set of dividers, like we used in school back years ago.

The shaft is about 1/8 dia and tapers to a point over about an inch.

I drilled a piece of 1/2 “ dowel and force fitted the shank into the dowel to make a handle, then chucked the assy in a hand drill and used a course file then sandpaper to shape the handle to remove square edges, for comfort..

 

In essence, I made an awl.

Cheers

Dave North

 


Re: Small drill bits

Aley, Jeff A
 

I use a push-pin -  you know, the kind you use in bulletin boards.  I had to dig through the box to find one with a decent tip.  I think I learned that from someone here on STMFC.

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of North Model Railroad Supplies
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 11:16 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Small drill bits

 

 

How do you keep the drill bit from wandering in such a small
piece of resin when trying to get the drill bit started?
Do you use a sewing needle to make a spot to start? I have
always struggled with that.
Scott McDonald


 

I use one of the point removed from a set of dividers, like we used in school back years ago.

The shaft is about 1/8 dia and tapers to a point over about an inch.

I drilled a piece of 1/2 “ dowel and force fitted the shank into the dowel to make a handle, then chucked the assy in a hand drill and used a course file then sandpaper to shape the handle to remove square edges, for comfort..

 

In essence, I made an awl.

Cheers

Dave North

 


Re: Small drill bits

North Model Railroad Supplies <nmrs@...>
 

How do you keep the drill bit from wandering in such a small
piece of resin when trying to get the drill bit started?
Do you use a sewing needle to make a spot to start? I have
always struggled with that.
Scott McDonald

 

I use one of the point removed from a set of dividers, like we used in school back years ago.

The shaft is about 1/8 dia and tapers to a point over about an inch.

I drilled a piece of 1/2 “ dowel and force fitted the shank into the dowel to make a handle, then chucked the assy in a hand drill and used a course file then sandpaper to shape the handle to remove square edges, for comfort..

 

In essence, I made an awl.

Cheers

Dave North

 


Prototype Rails 2014

Mikebrock
 

With a hint of fall in the air and winter [ whatever that is ] lying just about a month away for some, it is once again time to plan for Prototype Rails...this time:



PROTOTYPE RAILS 2014

COCOA BEACH, FL, JAN 9-11, 2014

An NMRA Sanctioned Event

A Prototype Modeling Meet Featuring Modular Layouts in O, HO and N Scale

1000 Models on Display-Please Bring Models!



Hotel

COCOA BEACH HILTON OCEANFRONT

1550 N. Atlantic Ave. [Highway A1A], COCOA BEACH, FL.

Phone: 800-526-2609 or 321-799-0003.

Refer to Prototype Rails for $100 Room Rate.



Registration

Early registration $35, Please make your check payable to "Prototype Rails" and send to: Marty Megregian 480 Gails Way Merritt Island, FL 32953. Use Form at Bottom.



The Cutoff for early registration is January 1, 2014. Registration After that date is $45.



Over 80 clinics by the following clinicians (Subject To Change)

Frank Angstead, Rick Bell, Michael Borkon, Al Brown, Jeff Cauthen, Bill Darnaby,

George Eichelberger, Stephen Funaro, Robert Gross, Andy Harman, Richard Hendrikson,

Roger Hinman, Charles Hostetler, Larry Kline, Tony Koester, Greg Komar, Jim Langston III,

Sandy McCulloh, Tom Madden, Greg Martin, Lance Mindheim, Joe Oates, Frank Peacock,

Clark Propst, Mike Rose, Bill Schaumberg, Bruce Smith, Andy Sperandeo, Mont Switzer,

Chip Syme, Ken Tendick II, Gilbert Thomas Jr., Tony Thompson, Mark Vaughan,

Bill Welch, O Fenton Wells, John Wilkes, Tom Wilson



Organizations, Manufacturers & Dealers
ACL/SAL Historical Society, Archer Rivets, Bob's Photos, Broadway Limited Imports, ExactRail, 5th Avenue Shops, Fox Valley Models, Funaro & Camerlengo, Intermountain, John C. La Rue Photos, Westerfield, David Leider, Mainline Photos, Motrak, Stan Rydarowicz, Rapido, Southern Car & Foundry, SRHA, Thoroughbred Models, Trolleys N' Dollies, Jay Williams Photos, Yarmouth Model Works



The meet begins on Thursday, Jan. 9, after dinner with video, slide shows and clinics. A special dinner

on Saturday, Jan 11, for Prototype Rails attendees only will be available for $28/person. Tickets are required and must be purchased no later than Saturday morning. Tickets may be purchased and reserved in advance and included with the cost of registration. Early registration plus dinner is $63/person. Spouses/Guests not attending presentations do not have to pay registration. Please add name to registration form. There will be a Friends of the Freight Car lunch at noon on Saturday.



For More Information

http://www.prototyperails.com

Contact Mike Brock at: brockm@cfl.rr.com or 321-453-4140


Re: Small drill bits

 

I made a tool out of a Gyro collet and brass tube to hold a sewing needle to make the starter divot. 

Thanks!
Brian Ehni 
(Sent from my iPhone)

On Sep 20, 2013, at 10:03 PM, <repairman87@...> wrote:

 

How do you keep the drill bit from wandering in such a small piece of resin when trying to get the drill bit started?


Do you use a sewing needle to make a spot to start?  I have always struggled with that.


Scott McDonald

Fort Collins, CO



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

I have also used Drill Bit City and I would highly recommend them.  I use their carbide resharpened bits and have had great results with this warning.  They are not very forgiving and you wiil break a few until you master a GENTLE touch.  Then end sills of Sunshine box kits are my nemesis.  But they do the job quickly.  They offer a wide range of sizes.  If your fairly crazy they make a #83 which does a great job on drilling retainer valves for 0.008 wire.


Morgan Reed

On Sep 20, 2013, at 2:27 PM, mrprksr <mrprksr@...

 

Ive used Drill Bit City bits for awhile now...Sharp Bits and Good Service...Larry Mennie

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Jack Burgess <jack@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Small drill bits

 
I had the same problem with an online supplier. Since then, I have been using Drill Bit City (http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/). Good service, the price seems fine (however, I don't compare prices very much), and all of the drill bits I've purchased there have been sharp. It can be a little difficult to find what you want on their website. The No.30-80 drill bits are here:
 
 
Jack Burgess
 
 
I have used Walther's #80 drill bits for all modeling projests until recently when due to price I ordered several pkgs from another source containing 10 bits.  Upon using these cheaper bits I find the bits to be not sharpened to the same standard as the Walther's. I broke two very quickly when working on Sunshine Models boxcar kit.   Asking for a source for ordering properly sharpened small bits in 10 pkgs at a reasonable price?  Thanks in advance.
Lester Breuer





Re: Is there a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" ends

Richard Townsend
 

40 foot.  The Westerfield car Bill Welch directed me to is what I am looking for.
Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, Oregon

-----Original Message-----
From: Benjamin Hom
To: STMFC
Sent: Fri, Sep 20, 2013 3:47 pm
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Is there a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" ends

 
Rich Townshend asked:
"I'm looking for an HO model of a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" or convex-ribbed ends.  Does anyone know if such a model exists?  It's for a C&S standard gauge MOW car I want to add to my MOW train."
 
36 or 40 ft?
 
 
Ben Hom


Re: Is there a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" ends

Richard Townsend
 

Thanks, Bill.  That is exactly, and I mean exactly, what I am looking for.
Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, Oregon

-----Original Message-----
From: lnbill
To: STMFC
Sent: Fri, Sep 20, 2013 2:10 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Is there a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" ends

 
Westerfield has the CB&Q's car that matches your description

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., richtownsend@... wrote:
>
> I'm looking for an HO model of a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" or convex-ribbed ends. Does anyone know if such a model exists? It's for a C&S standard gauge MOW car I want to add to my MOW train.
>
>
> Richard Townsend
> Lincoln City, Oregon
>


Re: Small drill bits

Scott
 

How do you keep the drill bit from wandering in such a small piece of resin when trying to get the drill bit started?


Do you use a sewing needle to make a spot to start?  I have always struggled with that.


Scott McDonald

Fort Collins, CO



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

I have also used Drill Bit City and I would highly recommend them.  I use their carbide resharpened bits and have had great results with this warning.  They are not very forgiving and you wiil break a few until you master a GENTLE touch.  Then end sills of Sunshine box kits are my nemesis.  But they do the job quickly.  They offer a wide range of sizes.  If your fairly crazy they make a #83 which does a great job on drilling retainer valves for 0.008 wire.


Morgan Reed

On Sep 20, 2013, at 2:27 PM, mrprksr <mrprksr@...

 

Ive used Drill Bit City bits for awhile now...Sharp Bits and Good Service...Larry Mennie

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Jack Burgess <jack@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Small drill bits

 
I had the same problem with an online supplier. Since then, I have been using Drill Bit City (http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/). Good service, the price seems fine (however, I don't compare prices very much), and all of the drill bits I've purchased there have been sharp. It can be a little difficult to find what you want on their website. The No.30-80 drill bits are here:
 
 
Jack Burgess
 
 
I have used Walther's #80 drill bits for all modeling projests until recently when due to price I ordered several pkgs from another source containing 10 bits.  Upon using these cheaper bits I find the bits to be not sharpened to the same standard as the Walther's. I broke two very quickly when working on Sunshine Models boxcar kit.   Asking for a source for ordering properly sharpened small bits in 10 pkgs at a reasonable price?  Thanks in advance.
Lester Breuer





Re: Small drill bits

Morgan Reed
 

I have also used Drill Bit City and I would highly recommend them.  I use their carbide resharpened bits and have had great results with this warning.  They are not very forgiving and you wiil break a few until you master a GENTLE touch.  Then end sills of Sunshine box kits are my nemesis.  But they do the job quickly.  They offer a wide range of sizes.  If your fairly crazy they make a #83 which does a great job on drilling retainer valves for 0.008 wire.


Morgan Reed

On Sep 20, 2013, at 2:27 PM, mrprksr <mrprksr@...

 

Ive used Drill Bit City bits for awhile now...Sharp Bits and Good Service...Larry Mennie

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Jack Burgess <jack@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Small drill bits

 
I had the same problem with an online supplier. Since then, I have been using Drill Bit City (http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/). Good service, the price seems fine (however, I don't compare prices very much), and all of the drill bits I've purchased there have been sharp. It can be a little difficult to find what you want on their website. The No.30-80 drill bits are here:
 
 
Jack Burgess
 
 
I have used Walther's #80 drill bits for all modeling projests until recently when due to price I ordered several pkgs from another source containing 10 bits.  Upon using these cheaper bits I find the bits to be not sharpened to the same standard as the Walther's. I broke two very quickly when working on Sunshine Models boxcar kit.   Asking for a source for ordering properly sharpened small bits in 10 pkgs at a reasonable price?  Thanks in advance.
Lester Breuer





Re: Is there a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" ends

Benjamin Hom
 

Rich Townshend asked:
"I'm looking for an HO model of a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" or convex-ribbed ends.  Does anyone know if such a model exists?  It's for a C&S standard gauge MOW car I want to add to my MOW train."
 
36 or 40 ft?
 
 
Ben Hom


Turn of the century HO scale freight car kits

J. Canfield
 

Hi, folks, I have just joined the group.  My partner Bob McGlone and I are two sort of retired guys who have more passion than common sense and when the whim strikes us produce limited edition HO rolling stock kits of freight cars from the 1890-1915 (roughly) era.  These kits are based on resin castings made by me from masters made by Bob and are complete, totally, with parts by Tahoe, Tichy, Grandt Line, Kadee, Panamint Art Griffin, Railgraphics, Clover House, you name them and we use their stuff .  Instructions are also detailed and illustrated with color pics over several pages.  The usual price of our complete kits is around $42+/-.  We make kits only to satisfy reservations and do not have "stock".  Some of our kits have included most recently the Standard Wagons boxcar, ventilated boxcar, PRR and P&R hopper-bottom gondolas, FGE Reefers, Tiffany Reefers, LV and Lackawanna bobber cabeese and several others.
I want to honor MIke's rules about postings for this group so if you would be interesting in being added to my extensive email list to be notified of future kit offerings, please notify me offline at jcan2x@....

If you are members of other Yahoo groups, you can see examples of our kits on Early Rails, B&O, NYO&W, Wabash, Anthracite, and other related Yahoo Group Train Sites.  Thanks for your interest!

John Canfield
Virginia Foundry and Model Works
Virginia Beach, VA


Re: Bowser PRR H30

John Sykes III
 

Just a reminder, that list is what trucks the H30s were built with.  However, as can be seen from the listing, any truck would pretty well fit, so as cars were shopped, they would have been swapped around like crazy.  As always, customize from photos of the car you are modeling.

 

-- John

--- In stmfc@..., <eric.mumper@...> wrote:

Rich,

In the "teach a man to fish" category, I had forgotten about the great PRR site you listed and my first search only turned up the truck drawings, but the second time found a very obvious page at:
http://prr.railfan.net/freight/classpage.html?class=H30
which shows truck type by car number. It appears that all the cars Bowser did in the CK scheme should have 2E-F2 Crown trucks which they sell as stock number 74091. I had to drill out the bolster and they take 1.035" Reboxx wheels.

As an aside, we now have a third supplier of 70T ASF A-3 trucks. These are not quite as nice as the Tahoe trucks, but an option nonetheless.

Eric Mumper

--- In STMFC@..., SUVCWORR@... wrote:
>
> In the 1950 list of PRR trucks PRR tracing C422800-E the following were used on the H30
>
> 2E-F2A Crown with Andrews steel cast frame 5'10 axle spacing C-E spring pack
>
> 2E-F10 double truss s.c. 5'8 C-E spring pack
>
> 2E-F11 National s.c. 5'6 C-5E spring pack
>
> 2E-F12 Young s.c. 5'8 C-5E springs
>
> 2E-F14 National s.c. 5'6 C-5E springs
>
> 2E-F15 Young s.c. 5'8 C-5E springs
>
> 2E-F22 ASF A-3 ride control 5'8 C spring pack
>
> The ASF A-3 is accurate
>
> For more information on PRR trucks see http://prr.railfan.net/freight/PRRFreightCarTrucks.html
>
>
> Rich Orr
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mumpseee <eric.mumper@...>
> To: STMFC <STMFC@...>
> Sent: Sat, Sep 7, 2013 1:01 pm
> Subject: [STMFC] Bowser PRR H30
>
>
> Group,
>
> Just received the new Bowser PRR H30 cars. Very nice. Will leave accuracy
> comments to those who know although I did peruse TKM 8 since I see what appears
> to be an issue. The model is 254266 showing New 5-35 in the CK scheme. I model
> October, 1954 and will do the appropriate reweigh date. The trucks are ASF A-3.
> These would not have been the original trucks from what I can tell. Anybody
> know what trucks should be under this car? Thanks.
>
> Eric Mumper
> eric.mumper@...
>


Fw: Small drill bits

mrprksr <mrprksr@...>
 

Ive used Drill Bit City bits for awhile now...Sharp Bits and Good Service...Larry Mennie

----- Forwarded Message -----

From: Jack Burgess
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Small drill bits

 
I had the same problem with an online supplier. Since then, I have been using Drill Bit City (http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/). Good service, the price seems fine (however, I don't compare prices very much), and all of the drill bits I've purchased there have been sharp. It can be a little difficult to find what you want on their website. The No.30-80 drill bits are here:
 
 
Jack Burgess
 
 
I have used Walther's #80 drill bits for all modeling projests until recently when due to price I ordered several pkgs from another source containing 10 bits.  Upon using these cheaper bits I find the bits to be not sharpened to the same standard as the Walther's. I broke two very quickly when working on Sunshine Models boxcar kit.   Asking for a source for ordering properly sharpened small bits in 10 pkgs at a reasonable price?  Thanks in advance.
Lester Breuer



Re: Small drill bits

Jack Burgess
 

I had the same problem with an online supplier. Since then, I have been using Drill Bit City (http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/). Good service, the price seems fine (however, I don't compare prices very much), and all of the drill bits I've purchased there have been sharp. It can be a little difficult to find what you want on their website. The No.30-80 drill bits are here:

 

http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/highspeedtools.html

 

Jack Burgess

 

 

I have used Walther's #80 drill bits for all modeling projests until recently when due to price I ordered several pkgs from another source containing 10 bits.  Upon using these cheaper bits I find the bits to be not sharpened to the same standard as the Walther's. I broke two very quickly when working on Sunshine Models boxcar kit.   Asking for a source for ordering properly sharpened small bits in 10 pkgs at a reasonable price?  Thanks in advance.

Lester Breuer


Small drill bits

frograbbit602
 

I have used Walther's #80 drill bits for all modeling projests until recently when due to price I ordered several pkgs from another source containing 10 bits.  Upon using these cheaper bits I find the bits to be not sharpened to the same standard as the Walther's. I broke two very quickly when working on Sunshine Models boxcar kit.   Asking for a source for ordering properly sharpened small bits in 10 pkgs at a reasonable price?  Thanks in advance.
Lester Breuer


Re: Is there a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" ends

Bill Welch
 

Westerfield has the CB&Q's car that matches your description

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, richtownsend@... wrote:

I'm looking for an HO model of a double -sheathed, truss-rod box car with 7/7 "cavitated" or convex-ribbed ends. Does anyone know if such a model exists? It's for a C&S standard gauge MOW car I want to add to my MOW train.


Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, Oregon

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