Date   

Re: Reweigh rules

Norm Buckhart
 

Tony - got both and printed them out. thanks, norm

On Nov 30, 2011, at 10:24 PM, Anthony Thompson wrote:

Norm Buckhart wrote:
that may be enough information. So as I understand it - for a car
say built Dec 1945, the first reweigh date would be in 36 months -
or Dec
1948, but then the second reweigh date might be Dec 51 or more
probably Dec 52. I think I can go from there.
Norm, it depends on car type, among other things. I made a table
of the rules for the late 1930s to 1960s, which was supposed to be in
the article I did on reweigh dates for Railroad Model Craftsman_ but
somewhere in the production process it got mutilated. A full version
is available on Google Docs at this link:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0Bz_ctrHrDz4wYzQ1YzZmZWEtNjU2ZS00Y2RjLTkyYTQtYjJkOWNiZDFlM2Y3&hl=en

and the table is on the second page; or you can find it via my blog
post on the subject, at:

http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/03/reweigh-article-from-
rmc.html

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Pennsy Trains from Potomac Yard: FNY-2 & AEC-5

Bill Welch
 

Friends:

I am trying to find photographs to illustrate certain trains that
were important in moving produce north from Potomac Yard. I will be
sending several of these messages as I identify the various trains
and have time to type them up. What I want are photos showing blocks
of reefers in the trains. My preference would be for photos made
before 1957. I hope you will forward this message on to your friends
that may be able to help if you cannot.

My source for these two trains is "Fast Freight Service Schedules for
Fruits & Vegetables: Season 1947-1948" on the Atlantic Coast Line.
The refrigerator cars originated on the ACL and were brought into Pot
Yard by the RF&P. If my search is productive, you may see the results
at Cocoa Beach in January. In fact photos of FNY-2 would help fill in
my story line quite nicely.

Please use my contact info below to respond off-line. Thank you so
much!

Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764-7622
727.470.9930
fgexbill@tampabay.rr.com

-----------------------------------------------------------

Here are the first two trains. Where there is more than one section I
have consolidated.

PRR FNY-2 departed Pot Yard 1:30 PM for the following points and
lines involved to those destinations

Newark; PRR
Jersey City; PRR
New York; PRR
Albany; PRR, WS

PRR AEC-5 departed Pot Yard 6:00 PM for the following points and
lines involved to those destinations

Albany; PRR, D&H
Boston; PRR, D&H, B&M
Buffalo; PRR
Montreal; PRR, D&H, CN, CP
Pittsburgh; PRR
Rochester; PRR, NYC
Scranton; PRR, D&H, DL&W
Syracuse; PRR, NYC, DL&W
Toronto; PRR, CN
Wilkes-Barre; PRR


Re: Reweigh rules

Joel Holmes <lehighvalley@...>
 

Hi Tom,

That is the way I have been applying decals for over 40 years now. I also
use a small screwdriver to lift the numbers off my finger and nudge them
in place. Often a car number has from 2 to 6 separate numbers. Pullman
names can have even more letters.

Joel Holmes

Bruce Smith wrote:

That's why I have very fine scissors and strong reading glasses at my
modeling bench <VBG> I've lost count of the reweigh dates I've cut
apart and pieced back together to get them in the correct time frame for
June of 1944... Needless to say, I don't usually float single digits in
a bucket of water when decaling either!
For very tiny decal bits I use a pin to place a small drop of water on the
tip of my left index finger and put the decal on that. The decal will come
loose in a few seconds but not float free. (That's why the "small drop".)
Use fine tweezers to place the decal near where you want it on the model,
then nudge the decal off the backing and into position. I use this
technique for any decal smaller than my fingertip because it's much easier
than chasing a floating decal across the surface of a water dish, or
retreiving it from the bottom of the dish. (I use a shallow dark brown
plastic cereal dish.)

Like many techniques, it takes longer to describe than do, and I suspect
many of you have long since figured this one out too.

Tom Madden


Re: Reweigh rules

pullmanboss <tcmadden@...>
 

Bruce Smith wrote:

That's why I have very fine scissors and strong reading glasses at my modeling bench <VBG> I've lost count of the reweigh dates I've cut apart and pieced back together to get them in the correct time frame for June of 1944... Needless to say, I don't usually float single digits in a bucket of water when decaling either!
For very tiny decal bits I use a pin to place a small drop of water on the tip of my left index finger and put the decal on that. The decal will come loose in a few seconds but not float free. (That's why the "small drop".) Use fine tweezers to place the decal near where you want it on the model, then nudge the decal off the backing and into position. I use this technique for any decal smaller than my fingertip because it's much easier than chasing a floating decal across the surface of a water dish, or retreiving it from the bottom of the dish. (I use a shallow dark brown plastic cereal dish.)

Like many techniques, it takes longer to describe than do, and I suspect many of you have long since figured this one out too.

Tom Madden


Re: Reweigh rules

pullmanboss <tcmadden@...>
 

Bruce Smith wrote:

That's why I have very fine scissors and strong reading glasses at my modeling bench <VBG> I've lost count of the reweigh dates I've cut apart and pieced back together to get them in the correct time frame for June of 1944... Needless to say, I don't usually float single digits in a bucket of water when decaling either!
For very tiny decal bits I use a pin to place a small drop of water on the tip of my left index finger and put the decal on that. The decal will come loose in a few seconds but not float free. (That's why the "small drop".) Use fine tweezers to place the decal near where you want it on the model, then nudge the decal off the backing and into position. I use this technique for any decal smaller than my fingertip because it's much easier than chasing a floating decal across the surface of a water dish, or retreiving it from the bottom of the dish. (I use a shallow dark brown plastic cereal dish.)

Like many techniques, it takes longer to describe than do, and I suspect many of you have long since figured this one out too.

Tom Madden


Re: Reweigh rules

Bruce Smith
 

On Dec 1, 2011, at 9:16 AM, William Darnaby wrote:

Yeah...that's also my beef with the Sunshine reweigh decals. Well done with
repack data and air brake data but you might get one date from the 50's for
each railroad. I guess the late 40's is Martin's period of interest. I
too, have just about used up my Champ stuff.

Bill Darnaby
Bill, Folks,

That's why I have very fine scissors and strong reading glasses at my modeling bench <VBG> I've lost count of the reweigh dates I've cut apart and pieced back together to get them in the correct time frame for June of 1944... Needless to say, I don't usually float single digits in a bucket of water when decaling either!

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Re: Reweigh rules

Brian Carlson
 

Sounds like a easy sell to Jerry Glow. I too am piecing Champ together.
Brian Carlson

--- On Thu, 12/1/11, William Darnaby <wdarnaby@att.net> wrote:


From: William Darnaby <wdarnaby@att.net>
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Reweigh rules
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 1, 2011, 10:16 AM



 



Yeah...that's also my beef with the Sunshine reweigh decals. Well done with
repack data and air brake data but you might get one date from the 50's for
each railroad. I guess the late 40's is Martin's period of interest. I
too, have just about used up my Champ stuff.

Bill Darnaby



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Reweigh rules

william darnaby
 

Yeah...that's also my beef with the Sunshine reweigh decals. Well done with
repack data and air brake data but you might get one date from the 50's for
each railroad. I guess the late 40's is Martin's period of interest. I
too, have just about used up my Champ stuff.

Bill Darnaby





When reweighing a LOT of freight cars for the 1956-1960 era, I'm shocked by
how LITTLE decal material is available for the post-1950 era. For example
Ted Culotta's beautiful decal sets have like 13 or 14 1940's reweigh dates
and maybe 1 post-1953 date. Very frustrating. Thank goodness for Champ's
excellent data sets, but I'm using mine up quickly, and they're no longer
made.

Tim O'Connor





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: B&O Wagontop Comparison

gn999gn
 

Jim's posting said it best...

Before publicly comparing the products, wait till they are all here,
in the flesh. That is only fair and balanced.
Then put some drawing/pic/data documentation in front of you as a reference point.
Additionally, in the interest of balance, also add the Sunshine and Wrightrak (Jim King) M-53 into the comparison mix.
After all, isn't this supposed to be about the art of miniature replication and how well it was done ?

Ron dePierre

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "jim_mischke" <jmischke@...> wrote:



We might wait to compare. I don't believe the ExactRail wagontops are ashore yet.




--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "StephenK" <thekays100@> wrote:

Has anyone done a comparison of the Fox Valley and Exactrail models? As is usual, we now have two nice plastic models--last year we had none!

Steve Kay


Re: Reweigh rules

Tim O'Connor
 

Thanks Tony. I think I should return the favor, and point out that
SP 82940 was a B-50-21 that had Equipco hand brakes (not Ajax) and
a US Gypsum running board (not wood). I'll forgive the trucks since
no one makes an ASF truck w/ spring planks.

:-) :-)

yer helpful buddy

Tim


Re: Reweigh rules

Tim O'Connor
 

Bill

Yep, that's what I use as a rule when decaling -- 2.5 yrs for 1st reweigh,
6.5 yrs for 2nd, 10.5 for 3rd, etc. (The 1st is the more critical; others
can be skewed by years in either direction)

When reweighing a LOT of freight cars for the 1956-1960 era, I'm shocked by
how LITTLE decal material is available for the post-1950 era. For example
Ted Culotta's beautiful decal sets have like 13 or 14 1940's reweigh dates
and maybe 1 post-1953 date. Very frustrating. Thank goodness for Champ's
excellent data sets, but I'm using mine up quickly, and they're no longer
made.

Tim O'Connor

I just looked this up as I was applying proper dates to cars. According to
my 1/53 ORER, page 753, under Rule 11 of Code of Car Service Rules the first
reweigh for all steel house cars was 30 months and 48 months for subsequent
reweighs.

Bill Darnaby


Re: B&O Wagontop Comparison

Tim O'Connor
 

From photos I've seen, the Exactrail car appears to have better
underframe details. On the other hand, besides the doors, Fox Valley
allows their cars to be custom decorated (Spring Mills) so if you're
buying based on excellence of paint & lettering, and are indifferent
to underframes, well, Fox Valley/Spring Mills seems like a good bet.

Unless you're a B&O modeler, how many M-53's do you really need?

Tim O'Connor

A preliminary review indicates neither the Fox valley or the Exactrail
models capture all the details based upon the drawings. If that were the
only gold standard we wouldn't buy any models. That would save us all a
lot of money. All tooling for models have compromises if for no other
reason than limitations in manufacturing techniques.
Bob Witt


Re: B&O Wagontop Comparison

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Charlie Vlk" <cvlk@...> wrote:

Greg and Steve-

In a way, I agree with both of you….

…..IMHO, the reviews we get are overblown ego trips of the reviewer or gratis further exposure for advertisers. “Look how much I know about this prototype, blah, blah, blah, blah blah!!.....�

I much prefer the format that the German Magazines use….objective reviews of like equipment compared against the prototype, with photos taken from similar views of the real car and competing models, with basic dimensions and any comments limited to measurable items or direct analysis of mechanical features (Higgins-style performance data) where applicable. Not endless streams of opinion padding column-inches.

That way the consumer can make the judgment if Brand A’s rendition is better than Brand B’s. After all, many times it comes down to “which one should I buy?� and with the present setup no review is going to give you the information, side by side, which allows you to make such a determination.

Perhaps the manufacturers would not like to see their new product compared to their competition, or vice versa, but hey, that’s what it is all about. Maybe that sort of review might make some companies decide not to do “knock-offs� of existing models and do some of their own market research to come up with a different product that consumers would like to have.

With (sometimes) inadvertent or unavoidable duplication of models a direct head-to-head comparison might be welcome by the consumer especially in a mainly photo format as a picture is worth a thousand words….. and the reviewer would not have to overlook obvious errors to make the advertising department happy.

I think in the long run it would raise the bar for accuracy and performance of our models.

Charlie Vlk

Agreed 100%, Charlie. Bob Higgins was one of the best reviewers we have ever had in this hobby. It is unfortunate that he is not still with us even though his reviews were limited to motive power. Back in the mid-1980's he obtained samples of the first two brass models I imported and one that I had designed for another importer. All three were reviewed in the NMRA Bulletin. His reveiws provided an accurate, carefully measured review of each model that could easily be compared to other reviews he had done because each model was subjected to the same carefully chosen criteria. I was impresed enough with them, even though we disagreed on the basis of the test for comparsion to prototype speed, that I paid Bob to test subsequent models to see if the characteristics sought in each were obtained.
Now I am gratified to see photos of the various models produced so often in publications depicting steam era modeling.

Cordially, Don Valentine



Re: B&O Wagontop Comparison

rogergperkins <roger.perkins@...>
 

Charlie Vlk, thank you for your comments on comparison of models with drawing and/or photos of the actual car(s) being modelled.
I find that approach most meaningful. I appreciate learning about the actual car(s). It also helps me decide if the model is "close enough" to satisfy my interest and purpose.

To date, I have purchased one each of the four styles of FVM n-scale wagontop boxcars and each individual number within the style. I am delighted as a modeller in n-scale to finally have a r-t-r version available for these cars.


Re: Reweigh rules

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Norm Buckhart wrote:
that may be enough information. So as I understand it - for a car say built Dec 1945, the first reweigh date would be in 36 months - or Dec
1948, but then the second reweigh date might be Dec 51 or more probably Dec 52. I think I can go from there.
Norm, it depends on car type, among other things. I made a table of the rules for the late 1930s to 1960s, which was supposed to be in the article I did on reweigh dates for Railroad Model Craftsman_ but somewhere in the production process it got mutilated. A full version is available on Google Docs at this link:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0Bz_ctrHrDz4wYzQ1YzZmZWEtNjU2ZS00Y2RjLTkyYTQtYjJkOWNiZDFlM2Y3&hl=en

and the table is on the second page; or you can find it via my blog post on the subject, at:

http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2011/03/reweigh-article-from-rmc.html

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: B&O Wagontop Comparison

Charlie Vlk
 

Greg and Steve-

In a way, I agree with both of you….

…..IMHO, the reviews we get are overblown ego trips of the reviewer or gratis further exposure for advertisers. “Look how much I know about this prototype, blah, blah, blah, blah blah!!.....”

I much prefer the format that the German Magazines use….objective reviews of like equipment compared against the prototype, with photos taken from similar views of the real car and competing models, with basic dimensions and any comments limited to measurable items or direct analysis of mechanical features (Higgins-style performance data) where applicable. Not endless streams of opinion padding column-inches.

That way the consumer can make the judgment if Brand A’s rendition is better than Brand B’s. After all, many times it comes down to “which one should I buy?” and with the present setup no review is going to give you the information, side by side, which allows you to make such a determination.

Perhaps the manufacturers would not like to see their new product compared to their competition, or vice versa, but hey, that’s what it is all about. Maybe that sort of review might make some companies decide not to do “knock-offs” of existing models and do some of their own market research to come up with a different product that consumers would like to have.

With (sometimes) inadvertent or unavoidable duplication of models a direct head-to-head comparison might be welcome by the consumer especially in a mainly photo format as a picture is worth a thousand words….. and the reviewer would not have to overlook obvious errors to make the advertising department happy.

I think in the long run it would raise the bar for accuracy and performance of our models.

Charlie Vlk



Steve,

Most importantly shouldn't we compare them to drawings for accuracy, comparing models to models seem a bit unnecessary.

Greg Martin







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Reweigh rules

Guy Wilber
 

On Nov 30, 2011, at 5:33 PM, Norm Buckhart wrote:

that may be enough information. So as I understand it - for a car say
built Dec 1945, the first reweigh date would be in 36 months - or Dec
1948, but then the second reweigh date might be Dec 51 or more
probably Dec 52.





4th Update Official list of Shake N Take 2012

Greg Martin
 

Here is the fourth update:

Folks here is the official list as of just about #PM PST:

Primary List:
1. Rich Hanke
2. Rick Devlin
3. Armand Premo
4. Denny Anspach
5. John Cantlay
6. Jerry Glow
7. Roger Hinman
8. Schuyler Larabee
9. John Greedy
10. Al Brown
11. Larry Sexton
12. Richard Berry
13. Craig Zeni
14. Charles Hosteler
15. Mike Brock
16. Josh Baakko
17. Ray Price
18. Dave Husey
19. Lindsay Raley
20. Mont Switzer
21. Ray Smit
22. Harry Herfurth
23. Brian Carlson
24.Tom Madden

Alternate List for Handouts:

1. Be Hom
2. Bill Welch
3. Bill McCoy
4. Andy Carlson
5. Tony Thompson
6. Dan Smith
7. Dave Orr
8. Ed Minns


If you are not on this list there will be an opportiunity to make the list at the registration desk when you arrive; however, we have one slot left. There is also room for alternates who are looking for handouts.

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Reweigh rules

william darnaby
 

I just looked this up as I was applying proper dates to cars. According to
my 1/53 ORER, page 753, under Rule 11 of Code of Car Service Rules the first
reweigh for all steel house cars was 30 months and 48 months for subsequent
reweighs.

Bill Darnaby


Re: Reweigh rules

Norm Buckhart
 

that may be enough information. So as I understand it - for a car say
built Dec 1945, the first reweigh date would be in 36 months - or Dec
1948, but then the second reweigh date might be Dec 51 or more
probably Dec 52. I think I can go from there. Frank Peacock has sent
me about 20 pages of reweigh station symbols by railroad so I think I
can provide some meaningful decal sheets. Thanks, Norm

On Nov 30, 2011, at 5:23 PM, Anthony Thompson wrote:

Norm Buckhart wrote:
can anyone sight the Rule number and language that requires 3 year
reweighing of cars.
Guy Wilber replied:
Interchange Rule 30. What year, what car construction, and
information do you seek? The Rule and charts cover three pages.
Bear in mind that subsequent reweigh periods were not always 36
months, they were more frequent early on.
And after 1948 (I forget the month) reweigh for most cars
after the first reweigh was 48 months, not 36.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history

79541 - 79560 of 184284