Yes, Eric, it’s distorted but mostly horizontally.  It looks very wide.  But look at the car in relation to the man on the platform.  It’s clearly not as tall a car as the one originally referenced for this picture.

Schuyler

There’s a residential reuse of silos – Quaker Oats, somewhere in Ohio.  Slightly funky but I guess it works.

But I’m not talking about a “silo,” but rather the large orthogonal part of the building in your first image below.

Schuyler

Registered Architect 4600

Massachusetts

The CH&D car would become one of the B&O M-23 class by WW1. Height to running board was 13-foot, 3-inches. I suspect the camera lens has affected the car appearance.

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

A weigh date is not clear on any of these cars, so we don’t know the approximate date the scene was captured on film.

The 1911 amendment to the Safety Appliance Act pushed the Master Car Builders Association to formulate standards for placement of the new hardware. This led to sill steps on both ends of a car side. Ladders or ladder grabs on the right end of a car side and the left end of the car end, with rungs at the same level. A single handhold at the left end of the car side was added with the sill step. The end sill grabs became standard appliances on all cars, too.

These changes did not happen overnight to the US freight car fleet. There were occasional freight cars lacking all of these new safety appliances during WW1. IIRC, it was 1923 when all the older cars were either retired or upgraded to meet the new requirements.

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

I thought about building a spray booth for years. I considered cardboard boxes, luan ply, and the plans featured in MR several editors ago. I never did build one. I splurged for the metal Paasche booth in early 2015 and it has seen regular use since.

Sure it was pricey, but it helped me move several undecorated freight cars to the next step. I think I’ve painted close to 50 freight cars in the last five years. That doesn’t seem like much but it’s better than the two I painted with rattle cans in the previous 20 years.

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

This is the fan I’m using (as recommended by the MR article). https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-OEM-Blower-4C445. Max 495cfm. The MR article cites 525cfm. They got 150fpm airflow thru their 5” duct; I used 6” to more closely match the area of the fan outlet.

I’m using flexible duct from the paint booth to a bathroom fan duct (bathroom fan supplements the squirrel cage fan on the paint booth). The flexible run is about 6 ft. and the sheet metal duct is about 6 ft. to the outside wall. I see freight car red powder residue on the outside vent screen. Maybe you not moving enough CFU?

Nelson Moyer

I also like the “end truss rod” (I don’t think it’s a “handrail”), presumably to try to reinforce the end…

Has anyone tried to make one out of a corrugated box?

Maybe a “triple wall” one from an appliance?

A bit of *real* duct tape, maybe some 1x1 corner reinforcement?

You might need something a bit more solid to mount the fan on, but…

Cheap & easy to modify if you don’t get it “just right” on the first try!

(I got a metal one from North Coast, quite a while ago)

Ken

I’m using flexible duct from the paint booth to a bathroom fan duct (bathroom fan supplements the squirrel cage fan on the paint booth). The flexible run is about 6 ft. and the sheet metal duct is about 6 ft. to the outside wall. I see freight car red powder residue on the outside vent screen. Maybe you not moving enough CFU?

Nelson Moyer

After years of using mine, I see little evidence of paint on my outside exhaust. There may be some in the flexible duct, though.

It appears to, yes.  The plastic vent in the window pane shows no box car red or other colors.

Schuyler

It appears to, yes.  The plastic vent in the window pane shows no box car red or other colors.

Schuyler