Date   

Re: BLI NYC all-steel box cars - photos posted

Tim O'Connor
 

Nevertheless, I have to say I've never seen a lateral supported
that way before! It looks from the side like an upside-down grab
iron underneath the lateral.

Has anyone compared these cars to Westerfield's? From these BLI
photos I can't say I'm inclined to buy plastic over resin.

Tim O'Connor

Bill,

I believe it is often called "detail", but I don't think I've seen anything quite like it.

The running board lateral looks like it is defying gravity. In this proto image, it seems the lateral is supported closer to the edge of the roof.
http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/images/p&e-3609.jpg

In BLI images 3 & 4, it seems the door is slightly smaller than the opening.

Are these on hobby shop shelves?

Eric


Re: Great Northern Flat Cars

Tim O'Connor
 

Have you got Railmodel Journal, January 1997? Covers
GN 69000-69299, 69500-69999, with two photos of the later
cars.

There's at least one photo in the GNRHS website photo archive
of GN 67605, which appears to be a rebuilt version of the cars
built in the 1920's.

Tim O'

I have had some 'downtime' recently but now am involved with a project trying to find photos of Great Northern 40 foot flatcars. I just spent a fair amount of time prowling the web but clearly my search keywords must be better phrased to yield any results.

I would greatly appreciate any leads or links to sites that might help me in my search.

Thanks in advance.

Bob Kutella


Yahoo malfunction

Panhandle Division 1953 <prrinvt@...>
 

List

I am a list owner, and keep several group lists. For some reason, known only to the gremlins of cyberspace, my proto modelers list has been sending out yahoo connect posts. I worked with the crew at moderator
central, and all is working fine. I sincerely apologize to all who were inconveninced by the random postings.

Fred Freitas
{Reefer Madness}


Re: BLI NYC all-steel box cars - photos posted

Bill Welch
 

I would hope no grain will be loaded in these as there is daylight around the doors perimeter making papering difficult. Also whoever opened the door was very strong as they ripped the body part of the locking hardware right off the side of the car.

The only notable positive thing I see is the little triangular stencil, unavailable in any decal set.

This is great example of why I prefer undecorated models, as there is some much clunky material to remove and replace and I am just colour blind enough that matching paint for me is a lost cause.

There goes the triangular stencil I guess.

I hope BLI is running these past someone before they go into production!

Maybe the trucks are okay.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <eric@...> wrote:

Bill,

I believe it is often called "detail", but I don't think I've seen anything quite like it.

The running board lateral looks like it is defying gravity. In this proto image, it seems the lateral is supported closer to the edge of the roof.
http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/images/p&e-3609.jpg

In BLI images 3 & 4, it seems the door is slightly smaller than the opening.

Are these on hobby shop shelves?

Eric




Eric Hansmann
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Modeling the Railroads of Newburgh, Ohio, circa 1926:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <fgexbill@> wrote:

What is the strange growth on the latitudinal running board in the last photo?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "pwkrueger" <kruegerp@> wrote:

BLI put eight photos of one of these cars on their web site this week. Here is a link to the first photo in the gallery:
http://www.broadway-limited.com/images/view.aspx?productId=2332

Paul Krueger
Seattle, WA


Re: Illinois Central 3-bay hopper...

Benjamin Hom
 

Steve Lucas asked:
"I have a couple of undec HO Bowser (ex-Stewart 70-ton) three-bay hopper kits.
Are they suitable for

modelling IC hoppers, or total foobies if decorated for the IC?"
 
They'd be foobies, but getting to an accurate IC offset triple is not an easy
path.  The IC cars are a taller three-bay version of the ARA offset quad
familiar to HO scale modelers as the Athearn (and multiple knockoffs) quad, with
the earlier "stepped" taper.  The following photos are of these cars after
rebuilding in the 1970s:
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/ic/icg330532alb.jpg
http://home.mindspring.com/~paducah/icg24.htm
 
I remember seeing an in-process HO scale model of one of these cars out at the
first St. Louis prototype meet done from an MDC offset triple, but I don't
remember the modeler (it was either Dan Kohlberg or Mike Budde).  The problem,
as always, with this model is the goofy deep side sill and shallow profile
hoppers, but it does have the stepped taper and, with Archer rivets now
available, doing the four side sheet reinforcements is now a lot easier. 
Another route would be to convert an Athearn quad to a three bay hopper, but my
gut feeling is that this conversion would be too short in height.
 

Ben Hom

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Illinois Central 3-bay hopper...

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

Sorry, Ben--

To clarify, the 70-ton ex-Stewart tripple hopper.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:

Steve Lucas asked:
"I have a couple of undec HO Bowser three-bay hopper kits. Are they suitable for
modelling IC hoppers, or total foobies if decorated for the IC?"
 
Are you asking about the former Stewart offset triple, or the 100-ton triple?
 
 
Ben Hom

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: BLI NYC all-steel box cars - photos posted

Eric Hansmann
 

Bill,

I believe it is often called "detail", but I don't think I've seen anything quite like it.

The running board lateral looks like it is defying gravity. In this proto image, it seems the lateral is supported closer to the edge of the roof.
http://www.canadasouthern.com/caso/images/p&e-3609.jpg

In BLI images 3 & 4, it seems the door is slightly smaller than the opening.

Are these on hobby shop shelves?

Eric




Eric Hansmann
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Modeling the Railroads of Newburgh, Ohio, circa 1926:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "lnbill" <fgexbill@...> wrote:

What is the strange growth on the latitudinal running board in the last photo?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "pwkrueger" <kruegerp@> wrote:

BLI put eight photos of one of these cars on their web site this week. Here is a link to the first photo in the gallery:
http://www.broadway-limited.com/images/view.aspx?productId=2332

Paul Krueger
Seattle, WA


Re: Illinois Central 3-bay hopper...

Benjamin Hom
 

Steve Lucas asked:
"I have a couple of undec HO Bowser three-bay hopper kits. Are they suitable for
modelling IC hoppers, or total foobies if decorated for the IC?"
 
Are you asking about the former Stewart offset triple, or the 100-ton triple?
 
 
Ben Hom

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Illinois Central 3-bay hopper...

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

I have a couple of undec HO Bowser three-bay hopper kits. Are they suitable for modelling IC hoppers, or total foobies if decorated for the IC?

Thanks in advance,

Steve Lucas.


Re: BLI NYC all-steel box cars - photos posted

Bill Welch
 

What is the strange growth on the latitudinal running board in the last photo?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "pwkrueger" <kruegerp@...> wrote:

BLI put eight photos of one of these cars on their web site this week. Here is a link to the first photo in the gallery:
http://www.broadway-limited.com/images/view.aspx?productId=2332

Paul Krueger
Seattle, WA


Re: What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?

VINCE PUGLIESE
 

Another option for speed control is something like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

assuming you are using a "simple" on/off-controlled rotary tool ( like a router,
hence the name)

.vp




________________________________
From: Eric <eric@hansmanns.org>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 10:36:56 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?

 
Tim,

I am not certain but I think the dimmer works with the older Dremels because of
a change in the motor or motor brushes that occurred when the variable speed
Dremels began appearing.


I used a metal double-outlet box and mounted a regular outlet and a dimmer
switch. You can break off two tabs on the outlet to separate the two recepticles
and wire as two separate circuits. Read the piece of paper that comes with a new
outlet as the details are there. At least they were on my purchase. I wired one
recepticle to the dimmer and one direct. The wiring was then ganged to a heavy
duty extension cord to use as a portable unit. I marked VAR on the box beside
the recepticle that is controlled by the dimmer. This dimmer control idea may
have been covered in Model Rairoader many, many years ago.


By all means, if you have any questions about this, please consult an
electrician first. I did.

The dimmer makes for good speed control of my old Dremel, which only has an
on-off switch. I can adjust speed based upon material and drill size.


Eric

Eric Hansmann
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Modeling the Railroads of Newburgh, Ohio, circa 1926:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Eric

That's an interesting idea, sounds better than the foot pedal.
I don't know about electrical stuff, but I think the old dimmers
used a rheostat (variable resistance) but the new dimmers use a
completely different technique -- perhaps that's why they don't
work so well with the Dremel?

Tim O'Connor


Re: What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?

VINCE PUGLIESE
 

Another option for speed control is something like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

assuming you are using a "simple" on/off-controlled rotary tool ( like a router,
hence the name)

.vp




________________________________
From: Eric <eric@hansmanns.org>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 10:36:56 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?

 
Tim,

I am not certain but I think the dimmer works with the older Dremels because of
a change in the motor or motor brushes that occurred when the variable speed
Dremels began appearing.


I used a metal double-outlet box and mounted a regular outlet and a dimmer
switch. You can break off two tabs on the outlet to separate the two recepticles
and wire as two separate circuits. Read the piece of paper that comes with a new
outlet as the details are there. At least they were on my purchase. I wired one
recepticle to the dimmer and one direct. The wiring was then ganged to a heavy
duty extension cord to use as a portable unit. I marked VAR on the box beside
the recepticle that is controlled by the dimmer. This dimmer control idea may
have been covered in Model Rairoader many, many years ago.


By all means, if you have any questions about this, please consult an
electrician first. I did.

The dimmer makes for good speed control of my old Dremel, which only has an
on-off switch. I can adjust speed based upon material and drill size.


Eric

Eric Hansmann
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Modeling the Railroads of Newburgh, Ohio, circa 1926:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Eric

That's an interesting idea, sounds better than the foot pedal.
I don't know about electrical stuff, but I think the old dimmers
used a rheostat (variable resistance) but the new dimmers use a
completely different technique -- perhaps that's why they don't
work so well with the Dremel?

Tim O'Connor


Re: What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?

Eric Hansmann
 

Tim,

I am not certain but I think the dimmer works with the older Dremels because of a change in the motor or motor brushes that occurred when the variable speed Dremels began appearing.

I used a metal double-outlet box and mounted a regular outlet and a dimmer switch. You can break off two tabs on the outlet to separate the two recepticles and wire as two separate circuits. Read the piece of paper that comes with a new outlet as the details are there. At least they were on my purchase. I wired one recepticle to the dimmer and one direct. The wiring was then ganged to a heavy duty extension cord to use as a portable unit. I marked VAR on the box beside the recepticle that is controlled by the dimmer. This dimmer control idea may have been covered in Model Rairoader many, many years ago.

By all means, if you have any questions about this, please consult an electrician first. I did.

The dimmer makes for good speed control of my old Dremel, which only has an on-off switch. I can adjust speed based upon material and drill size.

Eric



Eric Hansmann
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Modeling the Railroads of Newburgh, Ohio, circa 1926:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Eric

That's an interesting idea, sounds better than the foot pedal.
I don't know about electrical stuff, but I think the old dimmers
used a rheostat (variable resistance) but the new dimmers use a
completely different technique -- perhaps that's why they don't
work so well with the Dremel?

Tim O'Connor


Re: Drilling plastic & resin

Eric Hansmann
 

Wow. I feel like I just left a lecture and came out with way more knowledge than when I sat down. Thank you for your insight professor Barger. You answered several open questions I've had over the years ranging from AHM upgrades to early Westerfield kit difficulties.

Some days I don't learn much, and then some days we get one post that has so much.

Eric




Eric Hansmann
Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Modeling the Railroads of Newburgh, Ohio, circa 1926:
http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/





--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "JP Barger" <bargerjp@...> wrote:

Guys:
After all the excellent useful emails sent by our knowledgable and
experienced drillers, there are some points not covered.
<snip>


Great Northern Flat Cars

Bob Kutella
 

I have had some 'downtime' recently but now am involved with a project trying to find photos of Great Northern 40 foot flatcars. I just spent a fair amount of time prowling the web but clearly my search keywords must be better phrased to yield any results.

I would greatly appreciate any leads or links to sites that might help me in my search.

Thanks in advance.

Bob Kutella


BLI NYC all-steel box cars - photos posted

pwkrueger <kruegerp@...>
 

BLI put eight photos of one of these cars on their web site this week. Here is a link to the first photo in the gallery:
http://www.broadway-limited.com/images/view.aspx?productId=2332

Paul Krueger
Seattle, WA


New MRH eZine is Available Free

Rhbale@...
 

The September-October 2010 issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine is
now available at the MRH website. As always, the magazine is free. Check
it out at
_www.model-railroad-hobbyist.com_ (http://www.model-railroad-hobbyist.com/)

Articles in this issue include:
Lessons in Passenger Car modeling
Part two on Kitbashing a U18B
Zip Texturing Resurrected
The On3 Cascade County Narrow Gauge
The N Scale Scioto Valley trackplan
Quick and Easy Stumps
and
Modeling 22 Floors up (planning a layout for a temporary residence in the
Middle East)

Richard Bale, news editor
Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine


Re: What do you guys use to drill holes in plastic and Resin?

Gene <bierglaeser@...>
 

Thanks to Doug Kinder for starting the thread on drilling in plastic and resin.
Thanks also for the collective wisdom of Brian Paul Ehni, Clark Cooper, Al Brown, Dennis Williams, Jerry Michels, Andy Sperandeo, Jerry Glow, Gary Laakso, Roger Robar, Bill Welch, Eric Hansmann, Chuck Peck, Clark Propst, Pierre Oliver, Adrian Hundhausen, Jim King, Steve Lucas, Jerry Michels, Scott Chatfield, Vince Pugliese, Tim O'Connor, John F. Pautz, JP Barger and Armand Premo.
This is the sort of thing I like to copy to a text file and save for future reference.
Gene Green


Re: Red Caboose SP flats sold out

Paul Lyons
 

Don't think this was for me. Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Carlson <midcentury@sbcglobal.net>
To: Steam Era <stmfc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Sep 9, 2010 4:06 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Red Caboose SP flats sold out




No more until January. sorry,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Red Caboose SP flats sold out

Andy Carlson
 

No more until January. sorry,
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

93241 - 93260 of 186204