Date   

Re: What's on your work bench?

Bruce Smith
 

On Aug 31, 2010, at 10:54 AM, Walter wrote:

I currently have a Cannonball depressed center flat close to the painting stage. I will probably go with PRR even though the car is a bit short. What color were the cars and the buckeye trucks?

Lenny Ohrnell
Lenny,

The car should be painted PRR Freight Car Color (the exact shade of which depends on era, but I am fond of a 1:1 mix of Poly Scale Zinc Chromate and Special Oxide Red) and the trucks should be grimy black.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ \
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Tim O'Connor
 

Jack

I mentioned the CA filling earlier, but personally I don't use the
accelerator. Thin CA will harden enough in 15-20 minutes for another
layer, and I let it all harden overnight. With a "pool" of CA (as
opposed to a seam) the accelerator produces a crystalizing effect
and a rough surface.

Tim O'Connor

...which reminded me that the plastic model builders fill holes with CA set
with Accelerator. According to articles, they apply some CA and immediately
spray it with accelerator. It sets immediately and is easy to sand
immediately (but gets very hard in a little while). Multiple applications
could be used filling deeper areas.

Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


Re: PRR Flat Car book

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

GUYZ,
 
I, too, am a director of the PRR Socirty and recommend this book for anyone looking for the true essence of flat car ladings. I've been an SPF for 45 years, and learned a lot more than I thought I knew from this book. I'm dog earing the pages !
 
Fred Freitas
Marketing & Sales Dir.
PRRT&HS

--- On Tue, 8/31/10, Bruce Smith <smithbf@auburn.edu> wrote:


From: Bruce Smith <smithbf@auburn.edu>
Subject: [STMFC] PRR Flat Car book
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, August 31, 2010, 9:54 AM


Folks,

Some of you may not have realized it, but the PRRT&HS published a 
comprehensive book on PRR flat cars about 2 years ago.  Just this 
month, the PRRT&HS has announced that it once again has an e-store 
and now you can buy the book easily and directly over the web.

Just go to http://www.prrths.com/estore/
and scroll down until you get to:
Pennsylvania Railroad Flat Cars – Revenue & Work Equipment, 1818 – 
1968, by Elden Gatwood and Al Buchan, 2008, $39 for softcover, $60 
for hardcover.

The photos of the loads in the book are worth the price alone!

Disclaimer - I am a member of the PRRT&HS Board of Directors, a proud 
owner of a copy of the book, and this post is shameless advertising 
for the book.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
                            __
                           /  &#92;
   __<+--+>________________&#92;__/___   ________________________________
  |- ______/ O        O &#92;_______ -| | __  __  __  __  __  __  __  __ |
  | / 4999  PENNSYLVANIA   4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
  |/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
  | O--O     &#92;0  0  0  0/    O--O |   0-0-0                    0-0-0




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


What's on your work bench?

Walter
 

I currently have a Cannonball depressed center flat close to the painting stage. I will probably go with PRR even though the car is a bit short. What color were the cars and the buckeye trucks?

Lenny Ohrnell


KO&G/Mopac caboose

seaboard_1966
 

We at WrightTRAK are pleased to announce the possible production of the KO&G/Mopac International Car Company standard cupola steel caboose. We are accepting reservations for this car at our website, www.wrighttrak.com There is a special deal for those that preorder their cabeese before Sept. 27, 2010. An introductory price of $50.00 will be in place until that date. A minimum of 100 preorders/reservations for 100 cars is need to insure that we produce this model. This will be an HO scale resin kit.

So, if you are interested in this car please visit www.wrighttrak.com for information on this and our other products as well.


Denis Blake
One of the WrightTRAK guys
2011 Central Ohio Prototype Modelers Meet, May 5-8

http://www.facebook.com/pages/manage/#!/pages/Central-Ohio-Prototype-Modelers-Meet/326645470797


Re: Tank Cars

Clark Propst
 

Oh No!
John, you going to have those 3 dome 6K cars at Naperville? Be a nice winter day or two project : )
Clark propst


Tank Cars

cn528 <jscagle@...>
 

Group:

Sometime back there was post regarding the new line up of Sunshine Kits. I read that they are offering "Circumferential Rivet" tank cars. I'm guessing similar in nature to Radial Course Tank Cars?

Would anyone know what type? We are expanding the line of our tank cars with some new tank types, two of them being 3 compartment cars of 6K variety.

jon
sc&f


puttys

cn528 <jscagle@...>
 

Greetings Group:

I haven't read all the posts reagrding the putty thread, and what i did read i haven't seen anyone mention Tamiya Putty.

Tamiya Putty-Basic Type. Right there in english on the tube with lot's of Japenese writing all over it too, so there is no confusion.

This stuff is great. No shrinkage. It's aluminum looking, dries quickly, sands incredible, can be polished. And takes paint great.

You can find it online and on ebay occasionally. I would check out a hobby shop that caters to Military modeling. And while your there, pick up an issue of Fine Scale Modeler to see what your military modeling brethren are doing and working with as well.

Here's another one: Nitro-Stan. Red Putty 9001-Spot and Glazing Putty. This is made for the automotive finishes industry. One tube will probably set you back about 15-16 bucks but it will last you a lifetime and you will probably never use the tube up and will pass it off to someone else.

jon
sc&f


PRR Flat Car book

Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

Some of you may not have realized it, but the PRRT&HS published a
comprehensive book on PRR flat cars about 2 years ago. Just this
month, the PRRT&HS has announced that it once again has an e-store
and now you can buy the book easily and directly over the web.

Just go to http://www.prrths.com/estore/
and scroll down until you get to:
Pennsylvania Railroad Flat Cars Revenue & Work Equipment, 1818
1968, by Elden Gatwood and Al Buchan, 2008, $39 for softcover, $60
for hardcover.

The photos of the loads in the book are worth the price alone!

Disclaimer - I am a member of the PRRT&HS Board of Directors, a proud
owner of a copy of the book, and this post is shameless advertising
for the book.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers

pennsylvania1954
 

Hi Denny--I certainly concur with Bruce that this is an H30 not H30a. Railshop lists it on their website now as an H30.

This site may be of use to you:

http://prr.railfan.net/freight/classpage.html?class=H30

In the list of H30 numbers you have, 255576 - 255825 are class H30a.

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

StephenK
 

I occasionally read a British aircraft model magazine (the mag is British, not the planes!). In any case, the reviews of the models are quite complete. For very small cracks between parts, the builders often use correction fluid (like Wite-out) I have tried it and it works!

Steve Kay

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:

I have been a big fan of Ace Hardware's "2-Ton" epoxy, a long cure rate 50/50
epoxy. It seems to have a finished harness which mimics the styrene base
material well, which when sanding/filing doesn't recess, saving having to do a
2nd or more additional coats. Drills, taps and reinforces well on styrene. With
a hole to fill, by placing a taut piece of clear Scotch Tape bridging the gap, a
back-fill of epoxy gives a repair which mostly doesn't even require any sanding.


I don't like 5-minute epoxy, it should be left behind at your store,
unpurchased.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA





________________________________
From: Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 1:40:30 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits


To thin or keep soft Squadron and other similar putties, use Testor's Liquid
Cement. The thinner it is, the more it shrinks, though.

I agree with the others that resin is best filled with thick (gap-flling)
superglue. Accellerator helps the process. You must sand it soon after it
dries, however, because overnight it will become harder than the resin (bad
for sanding).

Large areas (1/8 inch diameter or more) are best filled with some epoxy
putty. The hardware store stuff is fine.

For pinholes, use a Gunze Sangyo product, "Mr. Surfacer 500". It is like a
very thick paint but dries hard and wet sands easily.

A key to puttying models: Spend your time dry-fitting and trimming the
pices before gluing them rather than sanding filler afterwards. Also, only
use the minimum amount of filler. Minimum filler addition = minimum filler
removal = minimum detail lost.

Don't bother with a gray primer (or any primer at all) - it just hides
detail. If you want to check for defects, paint it your final color.
Inspect, sand, fill, and sand as needed, then wash it clean and paint the
final coats. It's always worked as good as anything else for me.

KL

----- Original Message -----
From: behillman

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit
parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily
after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on
resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very
quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily.
It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene,
maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


N&W HC-1 hoppers was (PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers)

Bruce Smith
 

Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand?
Denny,

Approximately 60 N&W class HC-1 (70210-70219) and HC-2 (70160-70209) were built new by the N&W (http://www.riverraisinmodels.com/lib/ nwhc1hc2.pdf). These were identical or nearly so to the PRR's H30 class. It appears that they were built prior to WWII (builder's photo of 70210 at the N&WHS web site http://www.nwhs.org/archivesdb/ detail.php?ID=20206 looks like 9/1937 if I am reading the photo date correctly)

BTW, the Rail Shops model is an H30 and not an H30A. There was some confusion during the run up to release, but the release is clearly an H30 (YAY!)

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Just one more day...

Scott <smason2@...>
 

to take advantage of the August "Buy Two, Get One Free", DVD sale. The sale ends at the end of the day tomorrow, so don't wait any longer. Just order any two DVD's titles, and in the comments box, let me know which title you want for free. It's that simple.

You only have about 30 hours left to save a bundle, and get some great DVD's!

Thanks!

Scott
www.scottymason.com


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Ed Mims
 

Bondo GLAZING & SPOT PUTTY is clearly the best all round filler for model building. It is available in a 4.5 oz tube at auto parts stores. Don't confuse this with the Bondo epoxy filler. This is a one part material, kind of orangey red in color and comes in a red, white and black tube. It will bond to almost anything and drys quickly. I keep it around for use on models but also use it around the house to fill holes in walls, woodwork, etc. It does not srink appreciably but in some cases might require a second (skim) coating to get a flat surface. It is the only filler I use.
 
Try to keep it off of your fingers. It bonds to them pretty tightly.
 
Ed Mims
Jacksonville, FL

--- On Mon, 8/30/10, Jack Burgess <jack@yosemitevalleyrr.com> wrote:


From: Jack Burgess <jack@yosemitevalleyrr.com>
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 3:15 PM


 



Denny mentioned:

<All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting
<overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind
<word) at the shrinkage.
<
<Denny

...which reminded me that the plastic model builders fill holes with CA set
with Accelerator. According to articles, they apply some CA and immediately
spray it with accelerator. It sets immediately and is easy to sand
immediately (but gets very hard in a little while). Multiple applications
could be used filling deeper areas.

Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers

Donald Ford <ford.donald77@...>
 

Denny
The SPF's will jump on this
Here is what info I have on these cars:
Nos. 254251-255575
254251-254350 100 built May 1935
254351-254650 300 built April & May 1936
254651-254950 300 built March –June 1938
254951-255050 100 built April-June 1940
255051-255275 225 built November & December 1940
255276-255575 300 built March 1946
Many of these cars lasted into Penn-Central in company snad service. Some made
it to Con-Rail.
Here are a list of references I have:

Pennsy Power III
pp. 408 #254821
 
PRR Color Guide I
pp. 112 #498058, #498057, #255419
PRR Color Guide II
pp. 65 #254306, #254523, #254824
 
Cars of PRR
pp. 53 #254252 roof
 
PennsylvaniaRailroad Locomotives and Cars 1939
pp. 31 #254351
 
Train Shed Cyclopedia #5
            pp. 296-297 #254252
 
Railroad Model Craftsman August 1987
pp. 86 #PC32301, #PC32349
Railroad Model Craftsman September 1995
pp. 41 #255023
 
Mainline Modeler March 2001
pp. 59 #254252
pp. 57-58 plan ¼"=1'-0"
Mainline Modeler April 2001
pp. 62 #498055
pp. 63 #CR74008
pp. 64 #498055, #255419, #498058
pp. 65 #PC32349, #PC32322
 
HO Model Trains March 1953
pp. 25 HO modeling article
 
Model Railroader December 1971
pp. 71 #255024 (shows fabricated bolster, car on EBT 3' gauge trucks)
Model Railroader October 1981
pp. 66 #255552, #PC875304
pp. 67 #255105, plan 3.5mm=1'-0"
 
Keystone Vol. 15-4
pp. 19 #254821, class diagram
Keystone Vol. 16-4
pp. 27 #254478
Keystone Vol. 20-3
pp. 7 #254252, #255105
Keystone Vol. 35-2
pp. 22 #254821
pp. 23 #255281
pp. 24-25 lettering diagram CK
pp. 28 #255323, #254554, #254306
pp. 30-31 lettering diagram SK1b
pp. 38 #255409
pp. 45 #255656
pp. 48 #254772
pp. 50-51 lettering diagram PK
The article by Richard Burg in the Vol. 15-4 of the Keystone is very good.  The
F&C kit is also a challange.  The H30 is only different in the roof.  I pictures
of these cars with 4 different type trucks including Crown, B-1, Whitehead &
Kales with and witout leaf springs in the center group.
I would send you some pictures but my computer skills is not up to that.  The
roof shot in the Wayner "Cars of the Pennsylvania Railroad helped me with the
F&C kit. 
Don Ford
Kanab UT


________________________________
From: Denny Anspach <danspach@macnexus.org>
To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, August 30, 2010 12:50:01 PM
Subject: [STMFC] PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers

 
Friends, I have taken up Rail Shops, Inc. new HO kit for this exotic looking (to
me) and interesting freight car. The kit is a mixture of very clean well
detailed "flat" molded styrene parts, but with all the end bracing and a lot of
small parts to be cut and folded from extensive frets of fine brass etchings.
There are no 3rd party aftermarket parts in the box.

Although a list of part numbers is referenced in the instructions, none is in
the kit. Inasmuch as the instructions refer to parts simply by number ("part 2",
or "part 33"), I laid out all the parts on the bench and took the time to
extract their numbers from the instructions and photographs, and then both mark
them directly with a fine pen, make my own written list . A minor irritant, but
yet still an irritant.

The styrene is a light gray with a very high shiny finish that I have not seen
before, and it is also bendable, a requirement inasmuch as key parts of the
major construction require bending. I have already assembled the basic body/box,
and so far both the directions and actual assembly are exactly "as advertised".


A selection of appropriate decals can be purchased separately from the Rail
Shops website, but none are included with the kit.

I will report later when I start addressing the "origami" phase of construction.

Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation
is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might
personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were
these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased
de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand?


Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Jack Burgess
 

Denny mentioned:

<All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting
<overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind
<word) at the shrinkage.
<
<Denny

...which reminded me that the plastic model builders fill holes with CA set
with Accelerator. According to articles, they apply some CA and immediately
spray it with accelerator. It sets immediately and is easy to sand
immediately (but gets very hard in a little while). Multiple applications
could be used filling deeper areas.


Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Friends, I have taken up Rail Shops, Inc. new HO kit for this exotic looking (to me) and interesting freight car. The kit is a mixture of very clean well detailed "flat" molded styrene parts, but with all the end bracing and a lot of small parts to be cut and folded from extensive frets of fine brass etchings. There are no 3rd party aftermarket parts in the box.

Although a list of part numbers is referenced in the instructions, none is in the kit. Inasmuch as the instructions refer to parts simply by number ("part 2", or "part 33"), I laid out all the parts on the bench and took the time to extract their numbers from the instructions and photographs, and then both mark them directly with a fine pen, make my own written list . A minor irritant, but yet still an irritant.

The styrene is a light gray with a very high shiny finish that I have not seen before, and it is also bendable, a requirement inasmuch as key parts of the major construction require bending. I have already assembled the basic body/box, and so far both the directions and actual assembly are exactly "as advertised".

A selection of appropriate decals can be purchased separately from the Rail Shops website, but none are included with the kit.

I will report later when I start addressing the "origami" phase of construction.

Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand?

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Andy Carlson has it just right in advising the use of a standard long-set epoxy to use as a filler choice; and to aalso avoid the 5 minute type, except in extremis [my term!].

An easier epoxy to use is an epoxy designed to be a filler, i.e. epoxy resin already filled with vinyl microballoons, or microfibres. These filler-resins are much lighter in weight, and are much easier to sand. I am still using for this purpose two small "sample" jars (resin and hardener) of very light weight sculpting epoxy handed out at the 2000 NMRA San Jose convention. Like with all epoxies, if the resin becomes stiff and turbid with time, just place the resin container in very hot water for a period of time, and the resin then becomes reconstituted (if that is the word) for another couple of years.

Something very much to keep in mind is that the polyester and epoxy-resin-based fillers set without shrinkage, while the solvent-based fillers always have the potential to always shrink to some extent: the more solvent, the more shrinkage (a cautionary note to those "thinning" putties).

All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind word) at the shrinkage.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

I've always been happy with Squadron Green, though it's true one needs to learn how to use it. I have not used it much with resin kits, but have not encountered any problems, either. The material does dry out and occasionally one has to squeeze out some discard material to reach fresh putty, but since a tube lasts me for years, I can hardly complain about a little waste.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


1942-1946 Dry Bulk Covered Hopper Cars Definition and Discharge Gates

al.kresse <water.kresse@...>
 

Folks,

I'm looking at the 1942-46 built Pere Marquette 70-ton covered hopper cars. My available definition for a LO is a special car type "LO" -- A self-clearing permanently enclosed car, having fixed roof, sides and ends and provided with openings for loading through roof or sides. Openings fitted with weathertight covers or doors. Car also provided with bottom openings for unloading, with tight fitting covers or doors to prevent leakage of such commonities as sand, etc. is from a Aug 1938 ORER. Would that be current for my era?

I've also CBC images of the Enterprise discharge frames and gates for 1937 and 1957. Which would been used in 1942-46 era. The major diff seems to be an square extension on the gate operating shaft to install a crank handle into.

93321 - 93340 of 186051