Date   

Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

FRANK PEACOCK
 

Bill, I would go with the 5/8 rivets. The typical side rivets (rivet heads of course) are about 11/16 and 5/8 is close to that. Of course it might be a good plan to match the size on the kit, which are probably oversize. FHP (Frank H. Peacock)

To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
From: wpmccoy@comcast.net
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 18:35:15 +0000
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof




























Prototype rivet size was the question. I worded it badly. Thanks.



Bill McCoy



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.
Tim O'Connor
I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ADMIN: Replies OFF LIST, GR&I class OC Ballast cars

cinderandeight@...
 

Mike,
I have a full set of the early readers we all grew to love (?), "Fun
with Dick and Jane", "One Cherry Street" etc. if you need a loaner.
Does anyone know of, or have a decent photo of GR&I #2675, class GW
(OC) Rodgers dump cars (1897), built by Wells and French in Chicago? There
was one in Railroad Gazette in 1897, but all I have is a photocopy. (R.G.
June 18, 1897 P. 433)
Just to keep this message legal, I don't like rats.
Rich Burg


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Jack Burgess
 

<I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin
<kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very
<easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to
<use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.
<
<Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries
<very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around
<easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some
<more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?
<
<Thanks, Paul Hillman

I've been using Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty for styrene and possibly resin
too. I know I haven't problems using is on styrene and don't recall any
problems with resin. It is available at auto parts stores.


Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

John Degnan <Scaler164@...>
 

Jim King of Smoky Mountain Model Works should be able to answer this since he has my copy of the original PULLMAN drawings for this car (for the purpose of producing an accurate kit of it in the near future (in HO and S scales)).


John Degnan
Scaler164@comcast.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Bill
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 02:09 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof


I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?

Thanks.

Bill McCoy
Jax, FL



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Paul Hillman
 

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?

Thanks, Paul Hillman


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Bill McCoy
 

Prototype rivet size was the question. I worded it badly. Thanks.

Bill McCoy

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.

Tim O'Connor

I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Bill McCoy
 

Prototype rivet size was the question. I worded it badly. Thanks.

Bill McCoy

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.

Tim O'Connor

I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Tim O'Connor
 

Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.

Tim O'Connor

I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


Re: Brass Reefer Hatch Latch

Tim O'Connor
 

Tichy makes the nicest HO latches, in plastic. They are thin but
not as brittle as the resin latches, and they are better detailed.
I think Sunshine made some etched stainless steel latches, but
they have no relief detail.

Tim O'Connor

At 8/29/2010 02:03 PM Sunday, you wrote:
Why not use Grandt plastic ones? They can be sanded (thinned) more easily than brass. I just used a set to replace the moulded on ones on an IM R40-10 to do an ART clone. <http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/modeling/ART_steel_reefers.html>

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "buygonet" <buygone@...> wrote:

Does anybody know or have a source for reefer hatch latches, the resin ones that come with Sunshine kits are quite fragile and I would like to use brass ones. Thanks

Paul C. Koehler


Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Bill McCoy
 

I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?

Thanks.

Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


Re: Brass Reefer Hatch Latch

jerryglow2
 

Why not use Grandt plastic ones? They can be sanded (thinned) more easily than brass. I just used a set to replace the moulded on ones on an IM R40-10 to do an ART clone. <http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/modeling/ART_steel_reefers.html>

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "buygonet" <buygone@...> wrote:

Does anybody know or have a source for reefer hatch latches, the resin ones that come with Sunshine kits are quite fragile and I would like to use brass ones. Thanks

Paul C. Koehler


Brass Reefer Hatch Latch

buygonet <buygone@...>
 

Does anybody know or have a source for reefer hatch latches, the resin ones that come with Sunshine kits are quite fragile and I would like to use brass ones. Thanks

Paul C. Koehler


Re: Reefers With End Doors?

rwitt_2000
 

Adrian Hundhausen wrote:

Follow this link to the 1895 St. Charles Car Co. catalog, then scroll
down to the ETV&G 34' Riordan Patent reefer with end doors:
http://www.win.org/library/services/lhgen/SCcarco/CarCo3.htm
<http://www.win.org/library/services/lhgen/SCcarco/CarCo3.htm>

I was curious about this reefer so a Goggle search on the "Riordan
Patent" yielded the following. I didn't find a link to the
appropriate patent. This appears to one of what is hundreds of patents
received for designs of pre-1900 refrigerator cars.



A small resin manufacturer, Silver Crash Car Works, makes a kit in HO
scale for these reefers.




http://www.silvercrashcarworks.com/34footsideladderreefer.html




From a post on the BRHS list:
http://209.242.54.70/archives/BRHSLIST/2009-11/msg00096.html




"The words "Riordan Patent" over the door on the photo lead to the
major remaining puzzle about this prototype and, in turn, to one of the
more interesting aspects of the model. Some of the refrigerator cars
marked Riordan Patent had a pair of tall and narrow doors on their ends.
These doors could be opened to provide ventilation for the lading. A
photo of ETV&G car #12088 on page 67 of "PFE - PACIFIC FRUIT EXPRESS" by
Thompson, Church and Jones shows a good view of these doors."



This reefer may pre-date this list, but there appears to be an Early
Rail Group List that discusses cars built before 1900.



Needless to state that I have no commercial relationship with Silver
Crash car Works.




Bob Witt


Re: ADMIN: Replies OFF LIST

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

Mike,
 
From the sounds of it you may need the old McGuffy Reader for the inmates to begin lessons. Creative writting acn wait for a while.
 
Fred Freitas

--- On Sun, 8/29/10, mike brock <brockm@brevard.net> wrote:


From: mike brock <brockm@brevard.net>
Subject: [STMFC] ADMIN: Replies OFF LIST
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, August 29, 2010, 10:37 AM


 



Richard Hendrickson writes:

If you
are interested in either list (or both), e-mail me OFF LIST at
<rhendrickson@opendoor.com> . Please DO NOT respond directly to this
message, thus cluttering up the STMFC list; contact me directly at
the address above.
It is difficult for me to imagine a more clearly written statement that
replies should be OFF LIST. Richard say to NOT respond directly to his
message. Gary Ray immediately responds directly to Richard's message, to the
list...the STMFC. To paraphrase Lincoln, You can expect some of the people
some of the time to read and follow directions but you cannot expect ALL of
the people ALL of the time to do so. Perhaps that's because ALL of the
people simply cannot read. More than likely, it is because some don't
understand what it means to reply OFF LIST. Therefore...before I escort Gary
to Moderate Jail...I hate to go down there this time of year...the rats, you
know...and the cries for mercy...I'll try to explain. When someone says to
reply OFF LIST it means to replace the "TO" address of the STMFC with the
individual's address that sent the message. One would think this would be
obvious but I guess not.

So...anyhow, down to Moderate Jail. Lets see...I guess we'll put Gary in
with the other moro...uh...inmates that cannot read. Hmmm. Now, where did I
put that First Grade Reader book that I promised to bring with me on my last
visit...oh yes, here it is. One can always hope I guess. Geeez. Moldy down
here. And I can hear the cries for mercy beginning. Not as loud as last
time.

Mike Brock
STMFC OWner








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


ADMIN: Replies OFF LIST

mike brock <brockm@...>
 

Richard Hendrickson writes:

If you
are interested in either list (or both), e-mail me OFF LIST at
<rhendrickson@opendoor.com> . Please DO NOT respond directly to this
message, thus cluttering up the STMFC list; contact me directly at
the address above.
It is difficult for me to imagine a more clearly written statement that replies should be OFF LIST. Richard say to NOT respond directly to his message. Gary Ray immediately responds directly to Richard's message, to the list...the STMFC. To paraphrase Lincoln, You can expect some of the people some of the time to read and follow directions but you cannot expect ALL of the people ALL of the time to do so. Perhaps that's because ALL of the people simply cannot read. More than likely, it is because some don't understand what it means to reply OFF LIST. Therefore...before I escort Gary to Moderate Jail...I hate to go down there this time of year...the rats, you know...and the cries for mercy...I'll try to explain. When someone says to reply OFF LIST it means to replace the "TO" address of the STMFC with the individual's address that sent the message. One would think this would be obvious but I guess not.

So...anyhow, down to Moderate Jail. Lets see...I guess we'll put Gary in with the other moro...uh...inmates that cannot read. Hmmm. Now, where did I put that First Grade Reader book that I promised to bring with me on my last visit...oh yes, here it is. One can always hope I guess. Geeez. Moldy down here. And I can hear the cries for mercy beginning. Not as loud as last time.

Mike Brock
STMFC OWner


Re: Freight Car Models and Kits For Sale

Gary Ray
 

Richard,
I'd be interested in both lists.
Thanks,
Gary Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Richard Hendrickson
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 11:00 AM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Freight Car Models and Kits For Sale

Realizing that I have a far larger collection of freight car models
and kits than I'll be able to build in what's left of my lifetime,
I'm cleaning out many of them from my storage room. I have two
inventories of items for sale, one of injection molded styrene RTR
models and kits, the other of molded resin kits (Sunshine,
Westerfield, and some others, including some that are relatively
rare). Later this year, they'll be offered to the world in general
on e-Bay, but I'm giving STMFC listers first shot at them. If you
are interested in either list (or both), e-mail me OFF LIST at
<rhendrickson@opendoor.com> . Please DO NOT respond directly to this
message, thus cluttering up the STMFC list; contact me directly at
the address above.

Richard Hendrickson







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Reefers With End Doors?

Barrybennetttoo@...
 

Greg Komar does a decal set for this car.

Barry Bennett


Re: Reefers With End Doors?

Adrian Hundhausen
 

Follow this link to the 1895 St. Charles Car Co. catalog, then scroll
down to the ETV&G 34' Riordan Patent reefer with end doors:
http://www.win.org/library/services/lhgen/SCcarco/CarCo3.htm
<http://www.win.org/library/services/lhgen/SCcarco/CarCo3.htm>

Best,
Adrian Hundhausen


Re: Michigan Car ID Needed

rwitt_2000
 

William Frisk wrote:

I suspect it is an interurban electric trailer. Brake wheels and
low platforms like that were common to keep away from the wire above
when setting brakes on electric interurbans, which usually did not
interchange with steam railroads. I have found mention of a combined
interurban and Graham & Morton Steamship peach routing to Chicago from
about 1906 to 1928. "Peach Belt Way" was a slogan used at one time for
the Dowagiac branch of the Benton Harbor- St Joe electric Railway.
Coupler does not show but electric lines had much longer shanks to allow
for tighter turns in city streets. Bill Frisk
Based upon some photos I have seen of Indiana Railroad "box cars", I
agree that the car most likely belong to an interurban line.

I guess further discussion will need to move to another list. :-).

Bob Witt


Re: UTOX Tank Car from Intermountain/Red Caboose

Tim O'Connor
 

Another possibility; USOX is a valid reporting mark applied to
some tank cars owned by the US Army. I have a scan of USOX 15061,
which appears to be an 11k-12k ICC 105 tank car. The weird thing
is that I can't find any listing for this car number in ORER's
from 1940 to 1965.

Tim O'Connor

I can't help but think someone mistook UTCX for UTOX on an unclear photo and the error is continuing to be replicated. The IM car numbers are 245xx and 246xx. Are these valid UTCX numbers? I don't have an ORER nearby at the moment.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: billsoman <billso@gnventures.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, Aug 28, 2010 2:36 pm
Subject: [STMFC] UTOX Tank Car from Intermountain/Red Caboose


There was an exchange last year confirming the non-existence of a UTOX mark as
used on a Walthers car. See message below, and http://www.nrhs.com/reporting_marks/aar_reporting_marks.htm,
and http://www.nakina.net/other/report/reportu.html (both derived from ORERs)


Now Intermountain/Red Caboose has announced a silver/grey tank car with Standard
Oil logo and UTOX mark (http://www.imrcmodels.com/newshocomingsoon.html). Anyone
know if IM has independent research on this, or is just compounding the error?

-- Bill Sornsin

93361 - 93380 of 186051