Date   

Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Charles Morrill
 

Hydrocal works great in rubber molds. I've made many RTV molds including O scale freight car parts that were cast in Hydrocal with very good results.
Charlie

----- Original Message -----
From: "Francis A. Pehowic, Jr." <rdgbuff56@yahoo.com>
To: <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.


I have used Scalecoat 1 over Floquil many times. I've mixed Scalecoat 2 thinner with Testors' Dullcote and Glosscote which are lacquer based. Never a problem.

I'll throw a quick question in here. I bought a rubber mold for coal loads. Will Hydrocal work? If not, does any one have another kind of plaster that will/

Thanks!
Francis A. Pehowic, Jr. in Sunbury, Pa.









------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





Re: Info needed, Moore refrigerator

Cyril Durrenberger
 

The D&IR and DM&N converted most of their reefers to the Moore system in the teens, then converted a few remaining to the Bohn system in the late 1930's.  I have some information on them if you are interested.  It seems that most of the Moore reefers were for companies in the midwest.
 
Cyril Durrenberger

--- On Wed, 12/2/09, John Riddell <jriddell@interlog.com> wrote:


From: John Riddell <jriddell@interlog.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Re:Info needed, Moore refrigerator
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, December 2, 2009, 7:53 AM


 



Dennis,

There is an informative half-page ad on page 1066 of the 1916 CYC for the
"Refrigerator Heater & Ventilator Car Co." of St. Paul, Minnesota.

"Moore System -- Refrigerator - Heater - Ventilator"

A diagram shows the system.
It includes a hard coal-fired heater underslung which "keeps load free from
frost at 40 below zero for 15 cents a day."
Fresh air intake at bottom of the underslung heater. Heater is operated from
outside the car.
Internal air is also circulated through the heater.
There is a roof stack directly above the heater to release gas and smoke.

John Riddell



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

rdgbuff56
 

I have used Scalecoat 1 over Floquil many times. I've mixed Scalecoat 2 thinner with Testors' Dullcote and Glosscote which are lacquer based. Never a problem.

I'll throw a quick question in here. I bought a rubber mold for coal loads. Will Hydrocal work? If not, does any one have another kind of plaster that will/

Thanks!
Francis A. Pehowic, Jr. in Sunbury, Pa.


Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Bill Darnaby
 

Hi Doc,

I have used Scalecoat I directly over styrene for years with no issues. Use the recommending dilution for spraying and apply lightly.

See you in Cocoa,
Bill Darnaby


Re: B&O M-61 50' boxcar

rwitt_2000
 

Mark Morgan wrote:

I have four of the Branchline kits and thought they would be a quick
build until a photo gave it away. I appreciate your help.
Mark,

Unfortunately for modelers the B&O did not stop specifying Duryea
underframes until the mid-1950s so in the steam-transition era almost
all B&O freight cars had Duryea underframes. One of the few exceptions
were the alternate AAR flatcars, classes P-24, P-25, P-31 as offered by
InterMountain in HO scale.

Bob Witt
Indianapolis, Indiana


Re: Info needed, Moore refrigerator

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "John Riddell" <jriddell@...> wrote:

Dennis,

There is an informative half-page ad on page 1066 of the 1916 CYC for the
"Refrigerator Heater & Ventilator Car Co." of St. Paul, Minnesota.

"Moore System -- Refrigerator - Heater - Ventilator"

A diagram shows the system.
It includes a hard coal-fired heater underslung which "keeps load free from
frost at 40 below zero for 15 cents a day."
Fresh air intake at bottom of the underslung heater. Heater is operated from
outside the car.
Internal air is also circulated through the heater.
There is a roof stack directly above the heater to release gas and smoke.

John Riddell
Thanks John. That sounds like the equipment we're seeing in the one poor photo (which I can post, if someone is really interested). The better photo, which list member Rob Kirkham discovered in an archives in Vancouver, shows the other side of the car, but now that I know what I'm looking for, the bottom of the box just barely shows under the fish belly center sill on that car also. There is no smoke jack evident in either photo, but perhaps by 1921 they decided this feature was unnecessary, or else the vent was very flat to the roof.

The fact that the heater was connected to the interior air space also jibes with how Ken describes the box appearing to be part of a circulating system in the patent drawings... without mechanical fans, convection driven by the heater would be the logical way to circulate the warm air through the load.

Is there any chance we could obtain a scan of the ad? There may be space to include it in the book, and there should be no copyright issues, considering its age.


Dennis


Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Jim Betz
 

Denny,

My experience is that I can apply any paint over any other and onto
any surface ... providing.

1) The paint is laid on in very light coats - building up any one color/type
carefully and slowly (several light passes - potentially even letting a
prior coat of the same type/color dry 10-15 minutes before going
back to do an additional layer). The first coat of any color/type is
always the one that you have to be the most careful with. I call this
the "never get too much thinner on the surface at one time" stage.

2) If you are changing paint types - such as your wanting to put Scalecoat
over Floquil - then the prior coat -must- be completely dry. As in at
least 24 hours between types. I use the "smell test" for lacquers and
enamels ... hold the model up near your nose, if you can smell the
paint ... at all ... it isn't dry yet - then, after you can't smell it any more
I still add a half day or more before going on to the next type. If the
paint is an acrylic then I don't trust the smell test and just leave it long
enough that I'm -certain- the acrylic is fully cured.

Take a small piece of styrene - or use the bottom of the car - and apply
some of each of the paints, properly thinned for air brushing, to the
'unprotected' surface ... using a brush or eye-dropper ... I'm talking about
getting it "wet" with the paint ... to see if the thinner will attack the styrene.
If you have the time wait for those to dry (at least a day, more is better)
and then put another 'drop' of each of the paints over the other one. You
will quickly find out if you have a problem you have to be careful about...
- Jim


Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Gregory Severson
 

I have applied Scalecoat I over flowquil primer on several projects and it has worked very well. If you are applying a a light colors like orange, red or yellow, I suggest you apply white first before you apply your final color. The under-coats do affect the final color of the scale coat I and II colors, and white is a good under-coat to bring out the desired color.
   I have also painted Scalecoat II white as a primer (protector) color before painting a Scalecoat I color. This also worked well.
 
Gregory Severson


Re: Info needed, Moore refrigerator

John Riddell <jriddell@...>
 

Dennis,

There is an informative half-page ad on page 1066 of the 1916 CYC for the
"Refrigerator Heater & Ventilator Car Co." of St. Paul, Minnesota.

"Moore System -- Refrigerator - Heater - Ventilator"

A diagram shows the system.
It includes a hard coal-fired heater underslung which "keeps load free from
frost at 40 below zero for 15 cents a day."
Fresh air intake at bottom of the underslung heater. Heater is operated from
outside the car.
Internal air is also circulated through the heater.
There is a roof stack directly above the heater to release gas and smoke.

John Riddell


Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene

chapbob@...
 

Denny --

Like you, I have a cache of Scalecoat I (mostly those great Pennsy and NYC
colors). In general, I have had decent success using Scalecoat I over
Floquil primer on styrene.

But beware that this is a form of Russian Roulette, and that somewhere in
the revolver is a bullet that will get you. Make sure your primer is well
cured before spraying the Scalecoat I. And do a test patch inside the model
to make sure that bad things aren't about to happen. And if the styrene in
your model appears punky, it probably is a poor risk for Scalecoat I (the
old Cannonball Car Shops freight cars and E&B Valley passenger cars come to
mind).

Good luck!
Bob Chapman


car ownership thru Bieber 1947 q4 ending 07 and 08

Allen Rueter
 

count of car ownership thru Bieber 1947 4th quarter ending 07,
total 257
GN 53 - (37 were log flats that don't go to the WP)
ATSF 28
PFE 16
DRGW 15
PRR 10
NP 9
SP 8
CBQ 7
FGE MILW UP WFE WP 6
NYC SFRD SLSF UTLX 5
ART BO CG CN CRIP LN NRC UCR 4
ERIE IC NWX SCCX SOU 3
GWEX MP NKP PM TP URT WAB 2
Strays:
ACL AOX BAR CIZ CO CP CS GATX GTW LV MAHX MDT
NW OSL PLE RDG SCMX SSW STLBM


cars ending 08, total cars: 241
ATSF 30
PFE 19
DRGW 15
SP 15
GN WP 12 (no log cars)
CBQ 10
CNW MILW 9
PRR 8
NP UP 7
SFRD 6
SOU UCR WFE 5
FGE GATX IC NW SCCX 4
MDT NYC 3
ART CDLX CO ERIE KCS MP URT 2
Strays:
ACL BA BO BS CG CGW CNJ CRIP FOB GTW ITC LA LN LV
NADX NKP PLE PM RDG SCMX SRLX SSW STLBM TNO URTX UTLX WAB

Any one want to help take on classifying some of the larger groups,
like PFE, DRGW, SP, WP, CBQ, CNW, Milw, PRR, UP, ...
please contact me off list.

Allen Rueter


Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Jack Burgess
 

Denny...

Back in the old days when Floquil was more "lacquer-based", I airbrushed it
on styrene all of the time (but using light initial coats). It wasn't until
I tried it on injected styrene did I realize what Floquil Barrier was for!
The old rule was that you couldn't put a lacquer-based paint over enamel but
the reverse was okay (my understanding is that the current Floquil is more
like an enamel than a lacquer). If you are talking about the "new" Floquil
Primer, you might want to airbrush some Floquil Primer on some styrene, let
it dry, and then try the Scalecoat just to be safe.


Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Jeff Coleman
 

Denny
I don't recall if I've used this combo on styrene but I have on brass with no paint problems. I wouldn't think the top coat would craze the styrene as long as the prime coat was cured.
Jeff Coleman

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Denny Anspach <danspach@...> wrote:

Friends, being thrifty, I want to use an existing cache of Scalecoat I
over some styrene cars that have been been primed with Floquil gray.
Have others done this without the paint crazing the paint or styrene?

I know that I should just purchase Scalecoat II and be done with it-
but I would rather not.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento


Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

Doc,
 
        Does the phrase " works like H2SO4" influence your thinking?
 
Fred Freitas

--- On Tue, 12/1/09, Denny Anspach <danspach@macnexus.org> wrote:


From: Denny Anspach <danspach@macnexus.org>
Subject: [STMFC] Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.
To: "Steam Era Freight Car List" <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, December 1, 2009, 8:34 PM


 



Friends, being thrifty, I want to use an existing cache of Scalecoat I
over some styrene cars that have been been primed with Floquil gray.
Have others done this without the paint crazing the paint or styrene?

I know that I should just purchase Scalecoat II and be done with it-
but I would rather not.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento


Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Friends, being thrifty, I want to use an existing cache of Scalecoat I over some styrene cars that have been been primed with Floquil gray. Have others done this without the paint crazing the paint or styrene?

I know that I should just purchase Scalecoat II and be done with it- but I would rather not.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento


Re: B&O M-61 50' boxcar

Mark
 

I have four of the Branchline kits and thought they would be a quick build until a photo gave it away. I appreciate your help.

Mark Morgan

--- On Tue, 12/1/09, rwitt_2000 <rwitt_2000@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: rwitt_2000 <rwitt_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: B&O M-61 50' boxcar
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, December 1, 2009, 1:31 PM







 











Mark Morgan wrote:

Another Duryea underframe class and am wondering if anyone might have
suggestions for trucks, and is this an enclosed underframe.

Car numbers 282000-283149


I will have to check my stuff at home, but I believe they were ASF "Ride

Control".



If by "enclosed" you mean the cross-bearers were solid pieces of metal,

press steel shapes, then the answer is yes. If you mean the center sills

have a cover plate, then I will have to check the drawings. By the early

1950s when these cars were built, the Duryea patents were modified so

that the underframes allowed the use of standard AAR center-sills.



Regards,



Bob Witt

























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Re: Scalecoat I over Floquil over styrene.

Charles Hladik
 

Denny,
I haven't used this application, BUT............
Floquil being a "lacquer"/solvent based paint should not be affected
by application of an enamel paint. The recerse is where in the problem lies.
Good luck,
Chuck Hladik
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division

In a message dated 12/1/2009 8:35:13 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
danspach@macnexus.org writes:




Friends, being thrifty, I want to use an existing cache of Scalecoat I
over some styrene cars that have been been primed with Floquil gray.
Have others done this without the paint crazing the paint or styrene?

I know that I should just purchase Scalecoat II and be done with it-
but I would rather not.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: "Scotty Mason Live" Tonight!

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Greg Martin wrote:
How does Scotty Mason and this message firgure into Steam Era Freight Cars?
Good point, Greg. There have been "Mason shows" on freight cars, but this one clearly is NOT. Perhaps our esteemed moderator will have a comment?

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: "Scotty Mason Live" Tonight!

Greg Martin
 

How does Scotty Mason and this message firgure into Steam Era Freight Cars?

Greg Martin

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott <smason2@comcast.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 30, 2009 8:54 am
Subject: [STMFC] "Scotty Mason Live" Tonight!




Hi folks,

Today's the day!

The studio is ready. The outline has been finalized. The props are finished...well almost.

The crew will be arriving at 4:00 to set up their equipment run tests, and do a full rehearsal (They don't trust me!). then it will be on the air and live at 8:00 p.m.

The pilot episode of "Scotty Mason Live", a one-hour live Internet, streaming video show, will air tonight at 8:00 est. I will be demonstrating in clinic fashion, techniques to finish your scenery.

THIS IS A FREE SHOW!

There will be a link on my website to connect to the program. See you tonight!

Scott
www.scottymason.com







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Re: P&WV decals and others

Greg Martin
 

Just a reminder, Stan does make a roof for the P2K car that makes this bash work. He will be in Cocoa Beach. Elden can you make it down?

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: Gatwood, Elden J SAD <elden.j.gatwood@usace.army.mil>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, Dec 1, 2009 3:32 am
Subject: [STMFC] P&WV decals and others




Guys;

Jack's P&WV decals, and others he did (Union RR, Donora So., McKeesport
Connecting gons), may still be offered by A.B Charles, the hobby shop, in
Pittsburgh. I am not aware of any stock he has retained. Give A.B. a
search/call and tell us what you find. I need a couple sets myself.

Brian, I do not have that MM issue at hand, but it was on the NKP double door
50-footers. I will also see if I can dig it up. Pretty hefty project....

Elden Gatwood

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