Date   

Re: Wood Kits

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Roger Robar wrote:
Before you discard those wood kits I suggest you save the plans, they are worth saving if you ever get around to scratch-building the car out of styrene. Be aware that some plans are not to scale but helpful non-the-less.
Good suggestion, Roger, and especially worthwhile for Silver Streak kits, MANY of which are around 10 per cent oversize. You can just take the plans to your local copy store, reduce 'em to 90 per cent, and then built it right--in styrene.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: USRA Twin Hopper identification

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "llamsus" <bsmall@...> wrote:

I have uploaded a couple of photos of a USRA 55ton twin hopper model. I am hoping the collective wisdom of the list can help me identify some possible matches with actual prototype deliveries; particularly to north eastern lines. As I understand it the main spotting features are the brake wheel, the cut lever and the gusset were the side rail meet the side sheet.
I am collecting info towards building a small layout depicting Montreal in the late teens or early twenties. My preliminary research shows that quite likely these cars would have shown up regularly in Montreal at this time.

The photo are in the files section in a folder titled "Brian S"

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/files/Brian%20S/

Thanks

As far as I know, all the twin hoppers ordered by the USRA had lever action hand brakes; there were no alternate versions. That immediately makes these models of cars either modified later in life, or "clones" ordered by the railroads after the control by USRA ended.

As for a suggestion for a protorype for the model in the photos, New York Central had thousands of clones built in the early twenties that had brake wheels on vertical staffs as does the model.

Dennis


Orange & Lemons Shipped West

Bob C <thecitrusbelt@...>
 

Does anyone on this group have an educated guess as to why (as described below) lemons and oranges would have been headed for Los Angeles?

Perhaps this was due to diversions and ultimately the loads would have gone elsewhere and I'm assuming this practice would have occurred during the steam era. The original post appeared on the Pennys West group, according to Michael Bishop.

Thank you.

Bob Chaparro
Moderator
Citrus Industry Modeling Group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/citrusmodeling/
++++++++++++++++++++++++
I have some mid-1960s wheel reports from various trains. I have one wheel report of train SWC1 eastbound from "Harcove" to Enola with about 70 reefers of various fruits. Lots of PFE, SFRD, and other reefers on this train, Most of the PFE and Santa Fe cars are loaded with lemons, oranges and melons.

All of the Santa Fe cars are marked for Los Angeles, while the PFE cars are split for St Louis, Chicago, and L.A.

Dave Hopson


Re: AAR 3 bay 70t offset hoppers

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Clark Propst" <cepropst@...> wrote:

Been comparing the Stewart/Bowser model to the Accurail to see which is the best choice for the M&StL cars.

The two inner end supports on the M&StL cars were angles that ran to the top of the end like the Accurail model while the Stewart model has flat supports that are riveted to the bottom of the end sheeting.

The M&StL cars side frames ran straight past the side sheeting. This is how the Stewart car was done. The Accurail model has the frame slanting upward past the sheeting.
Clark,

The differences are prototypical, and those two details vary independently of each other, so those two differences yeild four different variations. Plus factor in differences in hopper doors (cast or pressed steel), differences in hopper locks (Wine, Enterprise type D, or Enterprise unit locks), differences in the way the upper carbody gusset flanges face (not even counting that some cars used stamped hat section gussets), and differences in hand brakes, and the number of variations of the "standard" car becomes downright staggering.

Dennis


Re: Wood Kits

Mark
 

Over thirty years ago a teenager drove to Loudonville (Ohio)to a hobby shop. Bought a Quality Craft kit, his friend purchased the bulkhead flatcar set and mine was the B&O Canstock car.
Now I realize this is out of the groups time period but that car still looks great. I have a few wood, several resin and styrene. All will get built someday.
The sanding sealer I bought years ago still exists!, the hardware store does not!

Just my cents worth :-)

Mark Morgan

--- On Tue, 12/15/09, Anthony Thompson <thompson@signaturepress.com> wrote:

From: Anthony Thompson <thompson@signaturepress.com>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Wood Kits
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, December 15, 2009, 2:53 PM







 









Marty McGuirk wrote:

Another option is to put the wood back in the box (or the circular
file) and replace it with styrene. That way you don't have to seal
and sand the parts - and the resulting model will look better.


Sound advice. Fondle those nice old wood parts--and discard.



Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA

2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress. com

(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturep ress.com

Publishers of books on railroad history

























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Re: Wood Kits

spsalso
 

I should also mention that I used Floquil paint over my Floquil "sanding sealer"--thus no compatibility issues.

Ed

Edward Sutorik


Re: Wood Kits

spsalso
 

Back in the olden days, I ended up using leftover Floquil paints as sanding sealer. It was, in a sense, free. I didn't thin it; I just brushed it on and sanded it off. With sandpaper. Actually, silicon carbide paper--ending up with 600 or 400 grit--I don't recall. Since the surfaces had color, I could easier see how things were going. When you can't see wood anymore, the surface is definitely sealed.

Then, in the less olden days, I did just what Marty and Tony suggested. On some of the kits, I used none of the parts, and so could resell them. On others, I used, for example, the ends and door parts from the kits and so re-selling was out.

Ed

Edward Sutorik


Re: Odd PS1s

Ed Hawkins
 

On Dec 15, 2009, at 1:38 PM, rockroll50401 wrote:

Seems like I'm talking to myself here : )

I just went through the series of articles Ed Hawkins did for RMJ in
93. Ed showed photos of the CNW and SAL 40' DDs. Were they the only
ones?

In the roaster, Ed noted only the NH 35000 series as being 10' IH.
Were they the only ones?

Thanks as always,
Clark Propst
Clark,
I recommend you check the PS-1 roster that's on the STMFC web site.
It's been updated significantly since the series of articles that RMJ
published in the 1990s.

Besides NH PS-1s built in 1948 (34500-35999), the only other 10' IH
PS-1s were DL&W 35000-35199 that were also built in 1948.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Re: Wood Kits

Roger Robar
 

Before you discard those wood kits I suggest you save the plans, they are
worth saving if you ever get around to scratch-building the car out of
styrene. Be aware that some plans are not to scale but helpful non-the-less.

Roger Robar - Modeling the B&M in northern NH.


Re: Wood Kits

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Marty McGuirk wrote:
Another option is to put the wood back in the box (or the circular file) and replace it with styrene. That way you don't have to seal and sand the parts - and the resulting model will look better.
Sound advice. Fondle those nice old wood parts--and discard.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Odd PS1s

rockroll50401 <cepropst@...>
 

Seems like I'm talking to myself here : )

I just went through the series of articles Ed Hawkins did for RMJ in 93. Ed showed photos of the CNW and SAL 40' DDs. Were they the only ones?

In the roaster, Ed noted only the NH 35000 series as being 10' IH. Were they the only ones?

Thanks as always,
Clark Propst


Re: AAR 3 bay 70t offset hoppers

Tim O'Connor
 

Clark

Missouri Pacific #61533 seems to match the Stewart model exactly.
The only JPEG's I've found that shows the upward/inward slant past
the bolsters are IC alternate-standard 3bay offsets which also have
the notch-taper style end panel.

Tim O'Connor

At 12/15/2009 09:41 AM Tuesday, you wrote:
Been comparing the Stewart/Bowser model to the Accurail to see which is the best choice for the M&StL cars.

The two inner end supports on the M&StL cars were angles that ran to the top of the end like the Accurail model while the Stewart model has flat supports that are riveted to the bottom of the end sheeting.

The M&StL cars side frames ran straight past the side sheeting. This is how the Stewart car was done. The Accurail model has the frame slanting upward past the sheeting.

Are these differences prototypical?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Wood Kits

ed_mines
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Francis A. Pehowic, Jr." <rdgbuff56@...> wrote:

Over the years I have accumulated quite a collection of wood freight car kits. My question is this: What is the best method for sealing the wood?

Depends if you want the wood to look like metal or wood and also the roughness of the wood.

I found that when I did many coats with steel wool inbetween that little pieces of the steel wool end up in the scribing.

The sanding sealer Scalecoat sells is OK but I used to use Ambroid cement diluted with MEK. I soaked strip wood in this mixture in a test tube.

Yes, it can be air brushed.

I uused fine grit sandpaper and would sandpaper before and after I applied the sealer solution, depending on the roughness of the wood.

You will find that when spraying the sealer will go into wood like water goes into a sponge in the beginning.

If you only coat one side of scribed wood you will find that it will curl up.

I had the side of a Q'Craft X23 box car curl up when I applied decal setting solution to an unsealed car. I've seen many built up, unsealed cars with gaps in the sides at shows.

I substituted styrene and brass shim stock for various wood parts.

Ed


Re: Wood Kits and sanding sealers

John F. Cizmar
 

Consider Testors Sanding Sealer...it is available in small bottles.
John F. Cizmar

--- On Tue, 12/15/09, Bob McCarthy <thesupplycar@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Bob McCarthy <thesupplycar@yahoo.com>
Subject: [STMFC] Wood Kits and sanding sealers
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, December 15, 2009, 8:11 AM


 



Howdy!
 
     Reading the label about application on specific sanding sealer will be the best way to determine how to thin sanding sealer.
 
     All sanding sealers were developed originally for the furniture industry.  Therefore, all of them with which I am familiar are designed to be sprayed per instructions with the product.
 
    Largest challenge will be obtaining small enough quantities for model railroading.
 
Bob McCarthy

--- On Tue, 12/15/09, Francis A. Pehowic, Jr. <rdgbuff56@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Francis A. Pehowic, Jr. <rdgbuff56@yahoo. com>
Subject: [STMFC] Wood Kits
To: STMFC@yahoogroups. com
Cc: RPM-forum@yahoogrou ps.com
Date: Tuesday, December 15, 2009, 1:58 PM

 

Over the years I have accumulated quite a collection of wood freight car kits. My question is this: What is the best method for sealing the wood?

Kit instructions usually say to give the wood a coat of sanding sealer and than sand with steel wool. Repeat several times.

They do make a sanding seal thinner. Do you thin the sealer like paint? Can it be airbrushed?

Thanks!
Francis A. Pehowic, Jr. in Sunbury, Pa.

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B&O Modeler Vol.2 #1 from Jan/Feb 2006?

Geoffrey Barbier
 

Does anyone have a .pdf copy of the B&O Modeler Vol.2 #1 from Jan/Feb 2006? My saved copy has become corrupt, and the file is no longer available singely from the B&OHS.

TIA!

Geoffrey Barbier
Allentown, PA


Re: Wood Kits

Marty McGuirk
 

Another option is to put the wood back in the box (or the circular file) and replace it with styrene. That way you don't have to seal and sand the parts - and the resulting model will look better.



Marty McGuirk


-----


Re: Accurail cars

Dennis Storzek
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Mike Aufderheide <mononinmonon@...> wrote:

Thanks, everyone for your comments to update the list. Here's an
updated list. I've also included the original descriptions for the
models which have been updated, in case anyone wishes to comment on
the accuracy of the changes made to the descriptions.
Mike, here's my additions / corrections:


#2400 USRA Coal Hopper
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/2400.htm
Original USRA design (year?).
1918


#2700 55-Ton Wood Side Twin Hopper
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/2700.htm
NKP 30000-30749, built 1918
The prototype PRR H31A; production H31B's were were similar.




#4100 40' Outside Braced Boxcar - wood doors and wood ends
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4100.htm
CN 500500-503499 cars built 1923, also AC and GTW.


#4300 40' Outside Braced Boxcar - wood doors and metal ends
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4300.htm
GTW 1 1/2 door auto cars rebuilt with single doors after reassignment
to CN.

#4500 40' Outside Braced Boxcar - metal doors and metal ends
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4500.htm
USRA based. What Roads???
No, not USRA, but the GTW door 1 1/2 door rebuilds after receiving new doors.


#4800 40' Wood Refrigerator Car
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4800.htm
BREX 75000-75999 built 1926, rebuilt without ice hatch platforms c. 1950.
Re roofing possibly sates earlier.

Also:

#5600 Exterior post 50' Boxcar
http://accurail.com/accurail/5600.htm
Common ACF Plate B car from the sixties.


#7700 AAR Offest Side Twin Hopper
http://accurail.com/accurail/7700.htm
AAR Standard.


Dennis Storzek
Accurail, Inc.


Odd PS1s

Clark Propst <cepropst@...>
 

I found an old Cannon Ball Car Shops plastic flat kit for a PS1. I thought it might make into a 10'IH car or a Double door. I've already made CNW and SAL 40' DDs.
So, any leads to photos of the above mentioned cars might head me use this thing up.
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Scalecoat Paint Stripper

Mark
 

A kato shell had some problems with this method, not repairable!

Mark Morgan

--- On Tue, 12/15/09, Joseph Lofland <jjlofland@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Joseph Lofland <jjlofland@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Scalecoat Paint Stripper
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, December 15, 2009, 9:23 AM
Frank,

I have always used brake fluid.  Never a problem on
brass or
plastic.........
and it is very inexpensive.

Joe Lofland

On Tue, Dec 15, 2009 at 9:09 AM, Francis A. Pehowic, Jr.
<
rdgbuff56@yahoo.com>
wrote:



I usually use 91% alcohol to strip my cars. There are
always a stubborn few
that this does not work on very well. By accident I
used some Floquil ELO
(Easy Lift Off) that is for the removal of decals. I
can start removing the
paint in less than two hours.

The gist. This must be a discontinued item as it is no
longer listed by
Walthers. English's/Bowser did not have any. Scalecoat
lists a stripper. Has
anybody had any experience with it? Does it work
better than 91% alcohol? It
is expensive compared to alcohol, but if it works like
ELO it is quite a
bargain.

Thanks!
Francis A. Pehowic, Jr. in Sunbury, Pa.

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------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


    STMFC-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com



Re: Accurail cars

Michael Aufderheide
 

I've tried to round up a list of prototypes (or near matches) of
current Accurail models, derived from various sources on the WWW.
Here is my list: any improvements, additions, corrections & comments
are appreciated -- especially for those models appropriate for
discussion on the STMFC list.
Thanks, everyone for your comments to update the list. Here's an
updated list. I've also included the original descriptions for the
models which have been updated, in case anyone wishes to comment on
the accuracy of the changes made to the descriptions.


#2300 Canton Car Co. Great Northern Twin Hopper
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/2300.htm
GN 73000-73099 built 1929 and GN 73100-73199 built 1930 by Canton Car
Co, Canton, OH

#2400 USRA Coal Hopper
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/2400.htm
Original USRA design (year?).

#2700 55-Ton Wood Side Twin Hopper
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/2700.htm
NKP 30000-30749, built 1918

#2800 55-Ton Panel Side Twin Hopper
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/2800.htm
USRA rebuilds by Union Metal Products. SLSF, RI, others.

#3400 PS-1 Boxcar
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/3400.htm
Amalgam of PS-1 details: Roof 1947-50, eight foot door 1951+, ends
1951-53, side sills 1954+.

#3500 40' AAR Single Door Boxcar
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/3500.htm
1944 AAR standard design, 10'-6" height, R/3/4 late improved
dreadnaught ends. Resemble ACF boxcars built circa 1955 to 1961 for
SOO, D&M, T&P (with full-length side sills), CB&Q and C&S.

#3600 40' AAR Double Door Boxcar
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/3600.htm
Cars built by GN, ca. 1956. Roof and fishbelly side sills of GN
3000-3499 built 1955 and the sides and double 6' doors of GN 3500-3999
built in 1956.

#3700 41' AAR Steel Gondola
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/3700.htm
1941 AAR design built for ACL and GM&O.


#4100 40' Outside Braced Boxcar - wood doors and wood ends
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4100.htm
CN 500500-503499 cars built 1923, also AC and GTW.


#4300 40' Outside Braced Boxcar - wood doors and metal ends
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4300.htm
GTW 1 1/2 door auto cars rebuilt with single doors after reassignment
to CN.

#4500 40' Outside Braced Boxcar - metal doors and metal ends
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4500.htm
USRA based.  What Roads???

#4600 USRA Double Sheath Wood Boxcar
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4600.htm
USRA double sheathed

#4700 40' Wood Stock Car
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4700.htm
Great Northern 56050-56248, built in 1957 from wooden boxcars
constructed in 1919. The model has Murphy 5/5/5 rib ends; some
prototype cars had these ends and others had Murphy 6/7 ends.

#4800 40' Wood Refrigerator Car
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/4800.htm
BREX 75000-75999 built 1926, rebuilt without ice hatch platforms c. 1950.

#5000 50' Single Door Riveted-Side Boxcar
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/5000.htm
ACF 12 panel boxcar- SP and MP. (Branchline did the more common 16
panel sides.)

#5200 50' Double Door Riveted-Side Boxcar
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/5200.htm
Close to SP class B-50-36 and B-50-38, with some work on the side sills.

#5700 50' Welded-Side Single Door Boxcar
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/5700.htm
???

#7000 6-Panel Outside Braced Boxcar with wood ends
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/7000.htm
Closest match are several groups of IC cars built in the early
twenties by Haskel & Barker, Western Steel Car Co, and ACF.

#7100 6-Panel Outside Braced Boxcar with Dreadnaught ends
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/7100.htm
IC 176000 - 176999, built in 1927 by Pullman.

#7500 70-Ton Offset-Side Triple Hopper
http://www.accurail.com/accurail/7500.htm
AAR standard of 1935. Production of the prototype cars began in the
late 1930s and continued until at least 1960.
____
Mark

--- On Tue, 12/15/09, Mark Morgan <bnonut@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Mark Morgan <bnonut@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Accurail cars
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, December 15, 2009, 7:34 AM


 



I searched the yahoo group messages and found this:
 
http://home. comcast.net/ ~kantz1/open_ hoppers.html
 
Sincerely, Mark Morgan
 
 

--- On Tue, 12/15/09, James Fellows <jamesfellows@ comcast.net> wrote:

From: James Fellows <jamesfellows@ comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Accurail cars
To: STMFC@yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, December 15, 2009, 8:16 AM

 

Could you repost it to this site?

Thanks,

Jim Fellows
----- Original Message -----
From: StephenK
To: STMFC@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 8:07 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Accurail cars

Sorry about that--it is message 31616 in the Modern Freight Cars List. I subscribe to both.

Steve Kay

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, Marty McGuirk <mjmcguirk@. ..> wrote:



Steve,.



When I locate 31616Â I get a message about N&W H2A hoppers.



Marty



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