Date   

Re: Van Dorn ends

Westerfield <westerfield@...>
 

Todd - Yes, I'd very much like to see it. - Al Westerfield

----- Original Message -----
From: centga@...
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Van Dorn ends


The C of Ga had a series of cars with Van Dorn ends. I don't have my information with me at the moment but if anyone is interested I can dig it out. Todd Horton


Re: loosing parts in thick carpets

Westerfield <westerfield@...>
 

When I'm building kits for photos I don't worry if something drops. There is a giant pile of gray flash on the light blue carpet under my chair so I don't even bother - I just grab another part. However, I've been known to drop a tiny master I've been working on for hours. Then it's sifting, sifting, sifting... - Al Westerfield


Re: inside view SAL autobox

Don Worthy
 

The photo is Seaboard Auto Box inside view. Sorry about the mix up.
Don Worthy
Ivey, Ga.

Schuyler Larrabee <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:
Don, I assume you mean that photo section of STMFC, not the files section, nor the STMPH area? I
get an error message when I try to go to the photo section of STMFC. What did you title it, anyway?

SGL

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On
Behalf Of Don Worthy
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 10:46 AM
To: STMFC Group
Subject: [STMFC] inside view SAL autobox

Hello group
I'm new to the group and have posted a photo in the photo
section. It's an inside shot of a Seaboard Auto Boxcar. It
shows one style of Auto Rack (with a car in place) installed.
I've wondered what brand of rack this is and for that matter
what model of car it has on it. The photo was dated 1937.
If anyone could tell me something about these, I'd appreciate it.
Don Worthy (new guy)


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Re: HO retainer valves and other small parts

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Oct 15, 2005, at 1:16 PM, armand wrote:

...The loss of Mainline Modeler would be a major loss for all.
Well, not really, IMHO. Mainline always reflected its publisher's eccentricities, but in its earlier years it offered a lot of useful information to serious scale modelers. As time went on, however, the eccentricities drove a lot of potential contributors away, a condition that was rendered worse by the fact that payments for contributions were often delayed for months and that original materials were NEVER returned. About the time that large parts of several issues were devoted to Great Lakes steamships, I stopped renewing my subscription. And though I've occasionally bought single issues that contained articles of interest to me, I've never had the least inclination to re-subscribe. In other hands, Mainline might become a real asset to the hobby once again, but I can't imagine anyone in his right mind wanting to take on the very considerable financial burden of its unfulfilled subscriptions. That Mainline is for sale is, of course, well known in hobby publication circles, but whenever it's mentioned people just rolls their eyes and change the subject.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: Small parts in the carpet.

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Ed Mines' truly funny story of using his Ambroid cement that was out for building a model to then "repair" (Ha!) a hotel desk chair that had just collapsed has the ring of a similar experience.

At a time when I was in medical school rooming in a private home in the mid fifties right alongside the old SP Los Altos branch in Los Altos, CA, the only flat surface that was in the room that was available for modeling was a truly ugly art deco wood veneered dressing table that was finished off to a high lacquer gloss. The landlords were a prickly lot, and the only good thing about the place was the occasional passing commute train.

Well, while painting (brush, of course) a steam era freight car model (what else would there have been at that time??), I spilled a jar of paint, which promptly flowed through the newspaper and liquified the table finish- i.e. it ruined it. Well, you never saw so much furtive effort extended in first sanding, and then refinishing the spoiled area with some modeling clear lacquer using a small modeling brush. At best, it was a "ten foot" effort, but always with some papers or other distraction lying about diverting any attention. As soon as I could find other quarters, I gave notice, made sure my rent was paid up, and I beat it, leaving no forwarding address.

I never heard more. The house was demolished when the SP abandoned and the right of way was turned into an interstate highway.

Denny
--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, California


Re: HO retainer valves and other small parts

armprem
 

Gentlemen,Unfortunately this trend is very widespread.It is very
difficult to find a well stocked hobby shop.As a result, more and more of us
resort to mail order further exacerbating the problem.Major distributors
require a minimum order which makes it difficult for the smaller specialized
shops, to meet the minimum.You can't make a living selling small parts.
The The loss of Mainline Modeler would be a major loss for all.Maybe it
is as the immortal words of Pogo,"We have met the enemy and they are us ".
Armand Premo om: "Patrick Wider" <pwider@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 3:14 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: HO retainer valves and other small parts


Richard,

I think I know the shop you're referring to but would you let me know who
it is offline? I'm
afraid there's a really bad trend going on. There used to be three or four
really good train
stores in the St. Louis area. There isn't a single one now. The same is
true for the Kansas
City area. Except for several enclaves in places like LA, SF, Denver,
Chicago, and Columbus
(?), the really good train stores are going the way of the dodo. Our
local store now refuses
to stock new freight car kits or freight car parts. They buy a few
assembled models and
arrange their shelves to make it look like they're full. They will order
parts from Walthers
but if Walthers doesn't have it, you're screwed. The guys that own and run
the thing are all
retired and use the store just to get away from their wives. It's
pathetic. At one time this
was a real active fully stocked train store. Based upon my experience as a
modeler and as
a train book publisher, the trend is widespread. Many stores don't even
answer the mail -
snail or otherwise. I believe LGB and the rebirth of Lionel were the worst
things that could
happen to our hobby. These guys don't see the light and convert over to
our way of
thinking very often, if at all. It requires too much thought.

Building detailed models is becoming a lost art with a possible exception
in the military
model area. These guys outnumber us (and I are one). Ben Hom described
them to a T.
They've got the time because they don't have to build a layout. As far as
I'm concerned, I'd
just as soon stay home, order stuff via the internet, and save the sales
tax and gas money.
Also, the arrival of the UPS truck gives me one more chance to study its
color!

Do any of you have sons or grandsons interested in the accurate modeling
of steam era
freight cars????? Yes, Mainline Modeler has talked about this for years
and it's now up for
sale. Also, if everyone who subscribed to this list bought books devoted
to prototypes
from the steam era, I'd be driving around in a new Caddy convertible!!!

Please give me a list of good (steam era ) kit and parts suppliers who I
can access via my
keyboard.

Pat Wider


--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@o...>
wrote:

Personal disclaimer: I do a lot of business with a friend of mine who
runs a first-rate retail model railroad shop. However, that also
requires phone or e-mail orders, as he's located in Ohio and I'm in
Southern Oregon. The local hobby shop (14 miles away) isn't bad, as
most hobby shops go, but stocks only the most basic things I need, so
it isn't worth my time to go there and back (not to mention burning a
gallon or so of $3+ gasoline) just to confirm that they don't have what
I want. The alternative is to spend five minutes placing an e-mail
order and receive what I order via UPS or USPS in a few days.

Richard Hendrickson







Yahoo! Groups Links










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reverse Murphy ends (2)...reverse dreadnaught?

PBowers <waiting@...>
 

Thanks to Jeff Pinchbeck he pointed me at the NorWest models page where further info on some of these rebuilds was found. In part the info states: "Between 1924 and 1929, the Railway decided to rebuilt 1000 of the all-wood cars (originally built between 1911 and 1913), renumbering them into the 199000-series. A further 2397 cars were rebuilt into the very similar 195603- series. (They differed mainly in the width of the door openings, 5' for the 195603-series and 6' for the 199000-series). Steel centre sills were added between the existing queen posts and truss rods, while steel ends were installed of a reverse-Murphy or a reverse-dreadnaught design, in which the ribs projected inwards."

My question. When were reverse(inverse?) dreadnaught ends introduced. A photo in John Riddell's book "Canadian Pacific Colour Guide of Freight and Passenger Equipment" shows one of the above rebuilds (pg33 middle) with the dreadnaught end. I can't tell if it is reversed or not. I kind of looks like a standard end.

Thanks for all the input to date!!

Peter Bowers


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Re: HO retainer valves and other small parts

Patrick Wider <pwider@...>
 

Richard,

I think I know the shop you're referring to but would you let me know who it is offline? I'm
afraid there's a really bad trend going on. There used to be three or four really good train
stores in the St. Louis area. There isn't a single one now. The same is true for the Kansas
City area. Except for several enclaves in places like LA, SF, Denver, Chicago, and Columbus
(?), the really good train stores are going the way of the dodo. Our local store now refuses
to stock new freight car kits or freight car parts. They buy a few assembled models and
arrange their shelves to make it look like they're full. They will order parts from Walthers
but if Walthers doesn't have it, you're screwed. The guys that own and run the thing are all
retired and use the store just to get away from their wives. It's pathetic. At one time this
was a real active fully stocked train store. Based upon my experience as a modeler and as
a train book publisher, the trend is widespread. Many stores don't even answer the mail -
snail or otherwise. I believe LGB and the rebirth of Lionel were the worst things that could
happen to our hobby. These guys don't see the light and convert over to our way of
thinking very often, if at all. It requires too much thought.

Building detailed models is becoming a lost art with a possible exception in the military
model area. These guys outnumber us (and I are one). Ben Hom described them to a T.
They've got the time because they don't have to build a layout. As far as I'm concerned, I'd
just as soon stay home, order stuff via the internet, and save the sales tax and gas money.
Also, the arrival of the UPS truck gives me one more chance to study its color!

Do any of you have sons or grandsons interested in the accurate modeling of steam era
freight cars????? Yes, Mainline Modeler has talked about this for years and it's now up for
sale. Also, if everyone who subscribed to this list bought books devoted to prototypes
from the steam era, I'd be driving around in a new Caddy convertible!!!

Please give me a list of good (steam era ) kit and parts suppliers who I can access via my
keyboard.

Pat Wider

--- In STMFC@..., Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@o...> wrote:

Personal disclaimer: I do a lot of business with a friend of mine who
runs a first-rate retail model railroad shop. However, that also
requires phone or e-mail orders, as he's located in Ohio and I'm in
Southern Oregon. The local hobby shop (14 miles away) isn't bad, as
most hobby shops go, but stocks only the most basic things I need, so
it isn't worth my time to go there and back (not to mention burning a
gallon or so of $3+ gasoline) just to confirm that they don't have what
I want. The alternative is to spend five minutes placing an e-mail
order and receive what I order via UPS or USPS in a few days.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: inside view SAL autobox

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Don, I assume you mean that photo section of STMFC, not the files section, nor the STMPH area? I
get an error message when I try to go to the photo section of STMFC. What did you title it, anyway?

SGL

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On
Behalf Of Don Worthy
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 10:46 AM
To: STMFC Group
Subject: [STMFC] inside view SAL autobox

Hello group
I'm new to the group and have posted a photo in the photo
section. It's an inside shot of a Seaboard Auto Boxcar. It
shows one style of Auto Rack (with a car in place) installed.
I've wondered what brand of rack this is and for that matter
what model of car it has on it. The photo was dated 1937.
If anyone could tell me something about these, I'd appreciate it.
Don Worthy (new guy)


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Re: loosing parts in thick carpets

Jim and Lisa Hayes <jimandlisa97225@...>
 

For a few years I had my own "finder". When I lost a part in the carpet I'd
call on my daughter. She once found a Kadee coupler spring in an orange
plush carpet! Unfortunately for me she grew up and got married.

Jim Hayes
Portland Oregon


Re: inside view SAL autobox

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Don Worthy wrote:
I'm new to the group and have posted a photo in the photo section. It's an inside shot of a Seaboard Auto Boxcar. It shows one style of Auto Rack (with a car in place) installed.
I've wondered what brand of rack this is and for that matter what model of car it has on it. The photo was dated 1937.
Welcome to the list, Don. In 1937, it is certainly an Evans Products loader. I can't see enough to tell if it is an auto loader or a truck loader, which were different models (Types D, E, or F). I'd guess the pickup was "auto-like" in that day, but can't be sure.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Sunshine ATSF Work Train

charles slater
 

I see you are selling your work train set. Good luck I hope you get a bundle for it.

From: "atsfjim2000" <atsfjim@...>
Reply-To: STMFC@...
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Sunshine ATSF Work Train
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 17:07:23 -0000

List
I just found a Sunshine ATSF work train listed on Ebay. Anyone
looking for one ? Search under Sunshine Models.
Jim Barnes



Re: Stripping paint

Rob & Bev Manley
 

Robert,
If you are going to blast all the paint away then I would just soak the tender in Brake fluid or a solvent based nasty stripper.
Remember to remove any wires or plastic detail parts or isolators first.
I don't recommend using any Gel type strippers as they cause a horendous mess and are hard to remove. My feeling is that you need a blaster only if the model is seriously tarnished and won't clean up using Tarnex or like product. If you want to remove the lettering only, you might try an air eraser. It's like an airbrush but lightly blasts the surface in a more controlable spray pattern.
The best part is it works on 1937 ARA boxcars too. ( now we're off the hook)

Sincerely,
Rob Manley
Midwest Mod-U-Trak

"When building kits is a lost art,
Only lost artists will be building kits !!"

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Gross
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 7:30 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Stripping paint


I know this is the Steam Era Freight Car group, but I have question
about removing the finish from... a brass steam tender. The lettering
is an incorrect font and I would like to correct it. I was told that
the best method would be to media blast the tender, repaint it and
redecal it. The only problem I have with this scenario is the media
blasting part. Does anyone here do that kind of work? Please advise.


Robert Gross
NH 0400





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Sunshine ATSF Work Train

atsfjim2000 <atsfjim@...>
 

List
I just found a Sunshine ATSF work train listed on Ebay. Anyone
looking for one ? Search under Sunshine Models.
Jim Barnes


Re: loosing parts in thick carpets

William Keene <wakeene@...>
 

Ed,

The easiest way to find that lost part is to get up out of the chair to
take a relaxing walk to relieve the stress.

CRUNCH!!!

This system works very well on hard surface flooring also.

-- Bill Keene
Irvine, CA

On Oct 14, 2005, at 9:01 PM, ed_mines wrote:

Denny's experience with loosing retainer valves reminds me of the time
I tried to assemble Walthers sprung trucks (the ones made of plastic)
in a Holiday Inn outside of Cleveland (early '80s?).

I lost the springs for 3 trucks in one sitting.

I also demolished one of the chairs at the table. It broke into about
10 pieces when I sat on it. I glued it back together with Ambroid
cement and it looked good enough to fool the hotel management.

Ed




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Re: reverse Murphy ends

jerryglow2
 

Although most of MP's Merchandise cars were rebuilt 40' cars, I
believe some 36' ones were rebuilt into all steel and painted into
the Merchandise scheme. If I remember right, the Champ set for this
scheme is for a 36' car.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "englishintroy" <englij@r...> wrote:

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@c...>
wrote:
Richard, according to my notes, MP 120000-121749 36' box cars
were
built in 1926 with inverse Murphy ends, and UP 99500-99999 G-50-9
gondolas were built in 1925 with inverse Murphy ends. These are
the
only two examples I found of cars built this late with such ends.
Also the following NYC Lots:

431-B, NOR S-3600 - S-3849, blt '22 (later NYC 275012 - 275750,
mixed
with other cars)
485-B, Rutland 8000 - 8199, blt 7=9-24
486-B, Rutland 9000 - 9199, blt 9=10-24
487-B, NOR S-3850 - S-4349, blt '24 (later NYC 275751 - 276248)

AFAIK, none of these cars were ever rebuilt with all-steel
superstructures.

Jeff English
Troy, New York
America's largest center of cast-iron stove manufacturing in the
19th
century.


Re: loosing parts in thick carpets

jerryglow2
 

Unless you did something to cause it to "fall apart" sounds like a
missed opportunity for a lawsuit for enough to build a nice model RR.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "ed_mines" <ed_mines@y...> wrote:

Denny's experience with loosing retainer valves reminds me of the
time
I tried to assemble Walthers sprung trucks (the ones made of
plastic)
in a Holiday Inn outside of Cleveland (early '80s?).

I lost the springs for 3 trucks in one sitting.

I also demolished one of the chairs at the table. It broke into
about
10 pieces when I sat on it. I glued it back together with Ambroid
cement and it looked good enough to fool the hotel management.

Ed


Re: inside view SAL autobox

Don Worthy
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Paul & Theri Koehler" <buygone@e...>
wrote:

Don:



I don't know what type of rack, but I think that the vehicle is a
light duty
International Harvester pickup.



Paul C. Koehler

Thanks Paul. I don't know my old vehicles as well as I should.
Don Worthy

_____

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On
Behalf Of Don
Worthy
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 7:46 AM
To: STMFC Group
Subject: [STMFC] inside view SAL autobox



Hello group
I'm new to the group and have posted a photo in the photo section.
It's an
inside shot of a Seaboard Auto Boxcar. It shows one style of Auto
Rack (with
a car in place) installed.
I've wondered what brand of rack this is and for that matter what
model of
car it has on it. The photo was dated 1937.
If anyone could tell me something about these, I'd appreciate it.
Don Worthy (new guy)


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Re: HO retainer valves

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

As I gratefully read the many generous answers to my chronic problem of handling these tiny parts, I realize how much of the problem is quite personal- the sheer difficulty of having to deal with tiny details needing to be precisely placed, but having eyes that no longer have the ability or agility to make the necessary accommodations. I have three Optivisors (two, on the average, always misplaced), one of which has the leather headband completely worn through.

Over the years I have ramped up my workbench lighting to Klieg Light standards (using fluorescent lights only to avoid furnace conditions). Nevertheless, I still have problems with close-in three dimensional depth perception, and quite often with small parts, there is not enough shadowing to actually determine correct orientation. BTW, this is a very common condition for people my age. For me, then, under these circumstances, having simple indexing or locating pins, or cores for piping on tiny part such as retaining valves can be an absolute Godsend (kit and part manufacturers: are you listening??).

I do not at all object to the PSC $20.00 minimum for all of the reasons stated. I did jibe about all of the retainer valves that $20.00 might buy (PSC catalog price- 4/$1.75), and in the end that will not deter me. As to filling out the order from all the other things in the voluminous PSC catalogs-- well--- I already have a wall of L-hooks, an awful lot of the hooks already stacked and packed with PSC parts , a large number of which were enthusiastically purchased to fill out $20.00 orders!
("Now, just what am I going to do with all of these---
whaterever-they-are-- after your funeral??").

Denny
--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, California


Re: HO retainer valves

Montford Switzer <ZOE@...>
 

After reading this post a couple of hours later I'm not sure I saw
clear. I mount both the line (wire) and valve in holes drilled in the
car end.

Mont Switzer

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Montford Switzer
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 9:15 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: HO retainer valves

Group and Denny,

Well, I hate to admit to faking it, but I do. I install either an .008
or .010 trainer line first securing the top in a small hole (usually
#78) drilled at about where the valve should be. I then cement the
valve so that the line appears to run into the bottom as intended.

I believe the PSC valves are made with a lug that you can push into a
small hole to make the attachment stronger. Testors for plastic to
plastic, ACC for other applications.

STEAM ERA FREIGHT CARS used retainer valves.

Mont Switzer

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Denny Anspach
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 4:11 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: HO retainer valves

I often finesse the modeling of retainer valves because of my common
personal inability to actually < < < see > and/or < orient > this
tiny detail part, or actually grasp the part with any tool so that
it does not sail off into the thick carpet pile sunset. If I have
survived so far, then I face actually mounting the valve reliably in
a correct position with correct orientation, and at last butting the
air line to the valve in some way that it too doesn't disappear into
the sunset the first time the car is handled.

Now, how do you other listers handle this problem? What valves are
the easiest to use and handle? Is there an indexing pin on the back,
and a hole for anchoring the .010" air line? Can they be purchased
in bulk, i.e. without purchasing an entire brake set, i.e. Tichy?

Mont Switzer has mentioned the PSC valves. The only problem there is
the $20.00 minimum (a LOT of valves).

Denny


--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento




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