Date   

SP Overnight and 4/6/6 doors jpgs

Andy Carlson
 

correction:

Dan HALL (not Dan Smith)

<midcentury@...>
-Andy Carlson


SP Overnight and 4/6/6 doors jpgs

Andy Carlson
 

I have received some large file (1.2MB) close-ups of
Dan Smith's new doors. Ask for which image you want in
the subject line, and I will send a copy. Looks real
good to me.
-Andy Carlson


Re: PFE R-40-10 in original colours

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

David Ball wrote:
Does anyone know approximately what proportion of the PFE R-40-10 fleet was
still in their original paint in the summer of 1948?
To be certain of this would require going through all 4700 car cards, not all of which survive; but the cars were just coming due for what PFE believed was the proper interval for repainting steel cars. Moreover, the PFE shops were extremely busy in 1946-1952, repairing war-worn cars, rebuilding, and modernizing much of the fleet. Shop statistics also show very large numbers of cars repainted in this period. Thus although I'm sure many R-40-10 cars retained original paint in the summer of 1948, I'm also sure that many were repainted.
In 1950, a general repair program for all the -10 cars was begun, adding fans and steel running boards. In that day, cars would have been repainted after such work, though of course this was after 1948.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


PFE R-40-10 in original colours

David Ball
 

Hi Guys

Does anyone know approximately what proportion of the PFE R-40-10 fleet was
still in their original paint in the summer of 1948?

Thanks

David Ball


Re: HO retainer valves

Charles Hladik
 

Denny,
Your local hobby shop also needs the $20.00 PSC minimum and most need
just that one more customer so they too can get their order placed for you and
all the other guys waiting.
Chuck Hladik
_staff@lynchburgtrainsunlimited_ (mailto:staff@lynchburgtrainsunlimited)
Rutland Railroad
Virginia Division


reverse Murphy ends

PBowers <waiting@...>
 

I'm trying to determine when CP rebuilt its double sheathed boxcars with the Reverse Murphy ends. CP build double sheathed cars up until 1928. Would these likely have been built with the steel ends? Could someone tell me when the reverse Murphy ends were in fashion and their history?

Thanks!!

Peter Bowers


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Re: HO retainer valves

Gatwood, Elden <Elden.Gatwood@...>
 

Denny;
Those things are tough! I use visors to see them, and keep track of
them in placement.

The ones I like best are the resin ones that come in many kits, which
have flat backs that can be reliably glued down.

I sand them until all the flash is gone, or mostly gone, by pressing
them down against fine sandpaper with my fingertip. Once they are
looking like the flash is almost gone, I hold the release handle part of
the casting down with a dull hobby knife blade and carve the rest out
with a sharp blade. When all that is removed, I do the handle. Once it
looks good, I "grab" it with the tip of the sharp blade just by poking
the body until it lifts off the glass (on which I cut it out). I place
it where I want it, and touch a tiny drop of ACC on a piece of wire to
one edge, where it wicks under the piece. This is usually enough, and I
use slow-drying CA so I can orient it to my satisfaction.

The little cast ones that come in kits are harder to grab, and tend to
"squirt" off into the netherworld, when one gets them up off the work
surface. I usually poke them, too, with the sharp blade, then put them
into their locating hole (which I may or may not have drilled myself),
then dab the CA on.

I install my air line by drilling a .010" hole just under the retainer,
bend a wire so that I have a very short-legged "L" in one end, place the
bent tip in the hole, lay it down the side, and bend the other end
under. If it requires being routed through a side, I bend each end to
fit two drilled holes, then place it with my little MicroMark tweezers.
Bleed CA in to cement in place.

Once you have done a few this way, it gets easy.

Have a great weekend!

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Denny Anspach
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 2:11 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: HO retainer valves

I often finesse the modeling of retainer valves because of my common
personal inability to actually < < < see > and/or < orient > this
tiny detail part, or actually grasp the part with any tool so that
it does not sail off into the thick carpet pile sunset. If I have
survived so far, then I face actually mounting the valve reliably in
a correct position with correct orientation, and at last butting the
air line to the valve in some way that it too doesn't disappear into
the sunset the first time the car is handled.

Now, how do you other listers handle this problem? What valves are
the easiest to use and handle? Is there an indexing pin on the back,
and a hole for anchoring the .010" air line? Can they be purchased
in bulk, i.e. without purchasing an entire brake set, i.e. Tichy?

Mont Switzer has mentioned the PSC valves. The only problem there is
the $20.00 minimum (a LOT of valves).

Denny


--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento




Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: HO retainer valves

Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...>
 

Hi Denny,

I use PSC retainer valves too. I drill into them from the bottom with a no. 80 bit to open them up for the pipe - with bright lights and lots of magnification!

Twenty bucks would buy a lot of retainer valves, but PSC has enough useful stuff that I don't ever have much trouble coming up with an order. If you haven't got one, order the latest PSC catalog (no. 4) for HO car parts and kits, no. 9739, for $10.

So long,

Andy
Andy Sperandeo
Executive Editor
Model Railroader magazine
asperandeo@...
Phone: 262-796-8776, ex. 461
Fax: 262-796-1142
www.modelrailroader.com


Re: HO retainer valves

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

I often finesse the modeling of retainer valves because of my common personal inability to actually < < < see > and/or < orient > this tiny detail part, or actually grasp the part with any tool so that it does not sail off into the thick carpet pile sunset. If I have survived so far, then I face actually mounting the valve reliably in a correct position with correct orientation, and at last butting the air line to the valve in some way that it too doesn't disappear into the sunset the first time the car is handled.

Now, how do you other listers handle this problem? What valves are the easiest to use and handle? Is there an indexing pin on the back, and a hole for anchoring the .010" air line? Can they be purchased in bulk, i.e. without purchasing an entire brake set, i.e. Tichy?

Mont Switzer has mentioned the PSC valves. The only problem there is the $20.00 minimum (a LOT of valves).

Denny


--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento


Re: Building Craftsman Structure Kits...a New DVD

smason2@...
 

Hi Storey,

I saw your E-Bay purchase. Thank you very much. I am awaiting shippment of the DVD's from the Duplicator, and will be shipping them within a week. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I hope you enjoy the DVD.

Thanks,

Scott

-------------- Original message --------------

Scott,

I tried to contact you directly, but your server refused my return address.

Reference eBay #6004424643.

Please contact me offline if you have any questions.

Storey Lindsay
Celje, Slovenia

----- Original Message -----
From: "smason22000" <smason2@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 16:43
Subject: [STMFC] Building Craftsman Structure Kits...a New DVD


Hi folks,

I am pleased to announce that I have just wrapped up production on a
DVD entitled "Building Craftsman Structure Kits". If you've never
built a craftsman structure kit, and always wanted to, but never
knew where to start, or if you've build many, then this DVD is for
you.

This DVD (also available on VHS) is approximately 1 hour and 20
minutes long, and covers all the essentials needed to build a
craftsman structure kit. I actually build South River Modelworks
Whitney & Bent Furniture Co. on the DVD. While the DVD focuses on
this structure, the techniques demonstrated can be used for any
craftsman structure kit. I also demonstrate several techniques used
by George Sellios of Finescale Miniatures.

The topics discussed include: Craftsman Kit Overview, Tools,
Adhesives, Paints, Preparing Castings, Working with Wood Walls,
Painting and Weathering Wood Walls, Windows, Attaching Wood Walls,
Painting and Weathering Masonary Walls, Signs, Attaching Masonary
Walls, Tarpaper Roofing, Shingles, Corrugated Roofing, Detail
Castings.

The DVD also includes some never before seen footage of Dick
Elwell's Hoosac Valley Lines, and many of the craftsman structure
kits I have built for that model railroad.

The DVD has been professionally photographed, edited and produced by
incredibly talented cameraman from a Boston news station. We used
the latest digital DVD camera and editing equipment. This is a
professional, broadcast quality DVD, not an amateur production.
We have been working on this project since April, and are very
pleased with the finished product. There are techniques in this DVD
that will appeal to all levels of modeler.

You can order this DVD for $29.95 plus $3.00 shipping through my E-
Bay store, http://cgi.ebay.com/Building-Craftsman-Structure-Kits-DVD-
FSM-SRMW_W0QQitemZ6004424643QQcategoryZ11646QQcmdZViewItem

Or you can order directly through PayPal at smason2@....
Please add $6.00 shipping for all international orders.

Thanks,

Scott Mason







Yahoo! Groups Links









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Visit your group "STMFC" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
STMFC-unsubscribe@...

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Re: Building Craftsman Structure Kits...a New DVD

Storey Lindsay
 

Scott,

I tried to contact you directly, but your server refused my return address.

Reference eBay #6004424643.

Please contact me offline if you have any questions.

Storey Lindsay
Celje, Slovenia

----- Original Message -----
From: "smason22000" <smason2@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 16:43
Subject: [STMFC] Building Craftsman Structure Kits...a New DVD


Hi folks,

I am pleased to announce that I have just wrapped up production on a
DVD entitled "Building Craftsman Structure Kits". If you've never
built a craftsman structure kit, and always wanted to, but never
knew where to start, or if you've build many, then this DVD is for
you.

This DVD (also available on VHS) is approximately 1 hour and 20
minutes long, and covers all the essentials needed to build a
craftsman structure kit. I actually build South River Modelworks
Whitney & Bent Furniture Co. on the DVD. While the DVD focuses on
this structure, the techniques demonstrated can be used for any
craftsman structure kit. I also demonstrate several techniques used
by George Sellios of Finescale Miniatures.

The topics discussed include: Craftsman Kit Overview, Tools,
Adhesives, Paints, Preparing Castings, Working with Wood Walls,
Painting and Weathering Wood Walls, Windows, Attaching Wood Walls,
Painting and Weathering Masonary Walls, Signs, Attaching Masonary
Walls, Tarpaper Roofing, Shingles, Corrugated Roofing, Detail
Castings.

The DVD also includes some never before seen footage of Dick
Elwell's Hoosac Valley Lines, and many of the craftsman structure
kits I have built for that model railroad.

The DVD has been professionally photographed, edited and produced by
incredibly talented cameraman from a Boston news station. We used
the latest digital DVD camera and editing equipment. This is a
professional, broadcast quality DVD, not an amateur production.
We have been working on this project since April, and are very
pleased with the finished product. There are techniques in this DVD
that will appeal to all levels of modeler.

You can order this DVD for $29.95 plus $3.00 shipping through my E-
Bay store, http://cgi.ebay.com/Building-Craftsman-Structure-Kits-DVD-
FSM-SRMW_W0QQitemZ6004424643QQcategoryZ11646QQcmdZViewItem

Or you can order directly through PayPal at smason2@....
Please add $6.00 shipping for all international orders.

Thanks,

Scott Mason







Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: Stripping paint

Robert Gross
 

Thank you very much for the detailed email. I would rather strip and
repaint. the loco will be weathered afterward so a direct match of
the black paint would be hidden beneath layers of grime.

Thanks again for the info.


Rob

--- In STMFC@..., Rob Adams <steamera@n...> wrote:

Robert;

Is the paint job on the tender good? Is the lettering a factory
applied
pad job, or is it decals with a clear coat? Is the surface area
you
need to correct relatively small in relation to the entire
surface?
Depending on the answers to these questions, the best solution may
not
be a complete strip and repaint.

Your scenario bears plenty of relevance for owners of brass freight
cars
as well. In situations where the overall paint job and most of
the
lettering is good, you may be able to salvage it by removing only
the
bogus lettering. This has many applications for changing car
numerals
and heralds. I've done this successfully on several models
including
steam locos, freight cars and waycars.

One thing that I've had success with to remove lettering is an ACC
debonding product (I don't recall the manufacturer, and am at work
so
can't look it up at the moment). In some cases it will remove the
printed factory lettering with minimal or no damage to the
underlying
paint. In this scenario, you can just apply decals and then clear
coat
the car to blend it in. Once you're done you'll probably not be
able to
tell that any change was made.

In other cases, the debonder will also remove the paint
underneath. If
that happens, don't stress! Let the area dry thoroughly and then
gently feather the edges where the paint came off with 0000 steel
wool.
Clean the area thoroughly, and then you can mask and repaint.
Matching
the paint can be a challenge, but I've yet to run into a situation
where
I couldn't come awfully close to matching the paint whether black
or
some variant of freight car red/brown. (I use Scalecoat I paints
on
brass whenever possible and find the mixing pretty easy to pull
off.
Just pick up some of those disposable plastic pipettes so you can
add
paint a drop at a time to vary color ) Use light coats, if you do
not
want to have a pronounced mask line. Apply decals and then clear
coat.

When the debonder will not work, then proceed to more potent
chemicals,
like lacquer thinner or MEK (yes, both are hazardous, and both
should be
handled carefully to minimize health risks, but that has been
covered ad
nauseum)

I've recently modified the lettering on two Railway Classics CB&Q
passenger waycars, removing the factory applied roadname and
herald,
which I considered problematic. It took MEK, applied with a Q-tip
to
remove the lettering (and also the paint surrounding it). I was
able to
mix box car red and tuscan red to closely match the factory paint.
After painting, re-lettering and clear coating, it takes a very
close
examination to detect that the paint job had been modifed. Best of
all,
the lettering is more accurate and I didn't have to repaint the
entire body!

Best regards, Rob Adams


Robert Gross wrote:

I know this is the Steam Era Freight Car group, but I have
question
about removing the finish from... a brass steam tender. The
lettering
is an incorrect font and I would like to correct it. I was told
that
the best method would be to media blast the tender, repaint it and
redecal it. The only problem I have with this scenario is the
media
blasting part. Does anyone here do that kind of work? Please
advise.


Robert Gross
NH 0400
--
Rob Adams
Wellman, IA
steamera@n...
Modeling Keokuk, IA operations and the CB&Q's K&W branch, circa 1938
http://www.KeokukandWesternRR.com


Re: Stripping paint

Roger Parry <uncleroger@...>
 

I have used Polly S ELO Easy Lift Off to great advantage in correcting lettering both painted and decals. I have even removed decal numbers from between top and bottom strips to change duplicate car numbers. It works.

On Oct 14, 2005, at 1:08 PM, Rob Adams wrote:

Robert;

Is the paint job on the tender good? Is the lettering a factory applied
pad job, or is it decals with a clear coat? Is the surface area you
need to correct relatively small in relation to the entire surface?
Depending on the answers to these questions, the best solution may not
be a complete strip and repaint.

Your scenario bears plenty of relevance for owners of brass freight cars
as well. In situations where the overall paint job and most of the
lettering is good, you may be able to salvage it by removing only the
bogus lettering. This has many applications for changing car numerals
and heralds. I've done this successfully on several models including
steam locos, freight cars and waycars.

One thing that I've had success with to remove lettering is an ACC
debonding product (I don't recall the manufacturer, and am at work so
can't look it up at the moment). In some cases it will remove the
printed factory lettering with minimal or no damage to the underlying
paint. In this scenario, you can just apply decals and then clear coat
the car to blend it in. Once you're done you'll probably not be able to
tell that any change was made.

In other cases, the debonder will also remove the paint underneath. If
that happens, don't stress! Let the area dry thoroughly and then
gently feather the edges where the paint came off with 0000 steel wool.
Clean the area thoroughly, and then you can mask and repaint. Matching
the paint can be a challenge, but I've yet to run into a situation where
I couldn't come awfully close to matching the paint whether black or
some variant of freight car red/brown. (I use Scalecoat I paints on
brass whenever possible and find the mixing pretty easy to pull off.
Just pick up some of those disposable plastic pipettes so you can add
paint a drop at a time to vary color ) Use light coats, if you do not
want to have a pronounced mask line. Apply decals and then clear coat.

When the debonder will not work, then proceed to more potent chemicals,
like lacquer thinner or MEK (yes, both are hazardous, and both should be
handled carefully to minimize health risks, but that has been covered ad
nauseum)

I've recently modified the lettering on two Railway Classics CB&Q
passenger waycars, removing the factory applied roadname and herald,
which I considered problematic. It took MEK, applied with a Q-tip to
remove the lettering (and also the paint surrounding it). I was able to
mix box car red and tuscan red to closely match the factory paint.
After painting, re-lettering and clear coating, it takes a very close
examination to detect that the paint job had been modifed. Best of all,
the lettering is more accurate and I didn't have to repaint the entire body!

Best regards, Rob Adams


Robert Gross wrote:

I know this is the Steam Era Freight Car group, but I have question
about removing the finish from... a brass steam tender. The lettering
is an incorrect font and I would like to correct it. I was told that
the best method would be to media blast the tender, repaint it and
redecal it. The only problem I have with this scenario is the media
blasting part. Does anyone here do that kind of work? Please advise.


Robert Gross
NH 0400
--
Rob Adams
Wellman, IA
steamera@...
Modeling Keokuk, IA operations and the CB&Q's K&W branch, circa 1938
http://www.KeokukandWesternRR.com






Yahoo! Groups Links








Re: Stripping paint

Rob Adams
 

Robert;

Is the paint job on the tender good? Is the lettering a factory applied pad job, or is it decals with a clear coat? Is the surface area you need to correct relatively small in relation to the entire surface? Depending on the answers to these questions, the best solution may not be a complete strip and repaint.

Your scenario bears plenty of relevance for owners of brass freight cars as well. In situations where the overall paint job and most of the lettering is good, you may be able to salvage it by removing only the bogus lettering. This has many applications for changing car numerals and heralds. I've done this successfully on several models including steam locos, freight cars and waycars.

One thing that I've had success with to remove lettering is an ACC debonding product (I don't recall the manufacturer, and am at work so can't look it up at the moment). In some cases it will remove the printed factory lettering with minimal or no damage to the underlying paint. In this scenario, you can just apply decals and then clear coat the car to blend it in. Once you're done you'll probably not be able to tell that any change was made.

In other cases, the debonder will also remove the paint underneath. If that happens, don't stress! Let the area dry thoroughly and then gently feather the edges where the paint came off with 0000 steel wool. Clean the area thoroughly, and then you can mask and repaint. Matching the paint can be a challenge, but I've yet to run into a situation where I couldn't come awfully close to matching the paint whether black or some variant of freight car red/brown. (I use Scalecoat I paints on brass whenever possible and find the mixing pretty easy to pull off. Just pick up some of those disposable plastic pipettes so you can add paint a drop at a time to vary color ) Use light coats, if you do not want to have a pronounced mask line. Apply decals and then clear coat.

When the debonder will not work, then proceed to more potent chemicals, like lacquer thinner or MEK (yes, both are hazardous, and both should be handled carefully to minimize health risks, but that has been covered ad nauseum)

I've recently modified the lettering on two Railway Classics CB&Q passenger waycars, removing the factory applied roadname and herald, which I considered problematic. It took MEK, applied with a Q-tip to remove the lettering (and also the paint surrounding it). I was able to mix box car red and tuscan red to closely match the factory paint. After painting, re-lettering and clear coating, it takes a very close examination to detect that the paint job had been modifed. Best of all, the lettering is more accurate and I didn't have to repaint the entire body!

Best regards, Rob Adams


Robert Gross wrote:

I know this is the Steam Era Freight Car group, but I have question
about removing the finish from... a brass steam tender. The lettering
is an incorrect font and I would like to correct it. I was told that
the best method would be to media blast the tender, repaint it and
redecal it. The only problem I have with this scenario is the media
blasting part. Does anyone here do that kind of work? Please advise.


Robert Gross
NH 0400
--
Rob Adams
Wellman, IA
steamera@...
Modeling Keokuk, IA operations and the CB&Q's K&W branch, circa 1938
http://www.KeokukandWesternRR.com


Re: Rutland Fallen Flags/Lubliner

Paul LaCiura <paul.jeseng@...>
 

It is one in the same as Paul is a big "old woman" enthusiast.

It is also my understanding that the O&W F-units were the prime mover behind
his development of the Highliner/Genesis F units.

Paul LaCiura
San Francisco, CA
spdaylight.com

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Justin Kahn
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 5:25 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] RE: Rutland Fallen Flags/Lubliner

Is this the same Paul Lubliner who did the MS O&W book (it is a sufficiently

uncommon name, I would assume so, given the limited number of Lubliners
likely to have railroad interests)?
As to Jason, while I don't mean to be arch, I said I wondered whether scans
had been deleted; I had not problem finding what was there. And I am
beginning to wonder if I've lost more brain cells than I thought, as I may
have seen the scan I recalled on the "Remembering the Rutland" website
instead. Any leads from the list for other views of Rutland #4000 gondolas?
Jace Kahn, General Manager
Ceres and Canisteo RR Co.


The two toolmakers I have heard the most about are Wegmann and Paul
Lubliner, mainly because they are Southwest modelers (where I am from), and
they certainly have my admiration for their abilities and modeling legacy.
Paul LaCiura
_______________________________________________________________________


From: Jason C <dhc628@...>
Subject: Re: Fallen Flags Website/Rutland

Did you try www.rr-fallenflags.org ? I just went
there and it worked fine.

Jason
_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/





Yahoo! Groups Links







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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Re: Stripping paint

Tim O'Connor
 

A bucket of lacquer thinner usually does the job.

At 08:30 AM 10/14/2005, you wrote:
I know this is the Steam Era Freight Car group, but I have question
about removing the finish from... a brass steam tender. The lettering
is an incorrect font and I would like to correct it. I was told that
the best method would be to media blast the tender, repaint it and
redecal it. The only problem I have with this scenario is the media
blasting part. Does anyone here do that kind of work? Please advise.


Robert Gross
NH 0400


Re: Stripping paint

joe binish <joebinish@...>
 

Robert,
I have a NorthCoast booth. Contact me off line at joebinish@...

Joe Binish


Stripping paint

Robert Gross
 

I know this is the Steam Era Freight Car group, but I have question
about removing the finish from... a brass steam tender. The lettering
is an incorrect font and I would like to correct it. I was told that
the best method would be to media blast the tender, repaint it and
redecal it. The only problem I have with this scenario is the media
blasting part. Does anyone here do that kind of work? Please advise.


Robert Gross
NH 0400


Re: Rutland Fallen Flags/Lubliner

Jeff English
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Justin Kahn" <harumd@h...> wrote:
Any leads from the list for other views of Rutland #4000 gondolas?
Bob's Photos has several, and he will likely be at Naperville in a
couple of weeks. Also, IIRC Keith Sirman has some 4000-series gon
photos, and he, too, will likely be at Naperville.

Jeff English
Troy, New York
home of women's education pioneer Emma Willard, and still the home of
the Emma Willard School, a private K-12 girls' prep boarding school.
Emma Willard also figured prominently in the establishment of Russell
Sage College, a women's college also here in Troy. Russell Sage was a
nineteenth century robber baron financier who made his fortune as a
financial partner in many industrial ventures, including railroads
which operated steam-era freight cars.


Re: Fallen Flags Website/Rutland

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Jace, you should email George Elwood. His contact email is on the site. There may be broken links.
Given that the site is a singlehanded production, a few nudges with problems are appreciated.

So are occasional contributions to defray his costs.

SGL

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On
Behalf Of Eric
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 12:53 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Fallen Flags Website/Rutland

I can't tell you about your mind but There is stuff missing
from the FF rutland site. No gondolas though.


Eric Petersson


Jace wrote:

"Is my mind already starting to go, or has George Elwood's
website deleted views? I had gotten the idea of converting
a Rutland #4000 series woodside gondola, using an extra 40'
flat (from the CDS lettering for the same) and was sure I
had found a nice scan of one on his website several months back.

I just went to look again (now that I am about to start
construction) and the Rutland selection is thin, indeed: very
little rolling stock"



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