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Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA
George Courtney
Mostly likely not your area, but the L&N ran from Cumberland Gap into Tennessee back into Virginia and on over to a connection with the N&W at Norton, Virginia. So it's has Virginia cred.
George Courtney
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Re: L&N gondola, was NC&STL GONDOLA
Steven D Johnson
Garth,
You are most welcome.
Those gons were built as L&N 56500-56699, 40’ 1” IL, interior height of 2’2”, 825 cu ft, Universal hand brakes.
Best regards,
Steve Johnson
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Garth Groff
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 11:29 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] NC&STL GOLDOLA
Steve and Friends, On 9/30/2019 7:14 AM, Steven D Johnson wrote:
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Re: Rusty rivets?
On Sep 30, 2019, at 01:49, Garth Groff <sarahsan@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Scott,The Instrctables web site has a project for a low cost CAD/CAM PC board router using a hand rotary tool like the Dremel. Modify it to manipulate a paintbrush. — ^<@<.@* }"_# | -@$&/_% !( @|=> ;`+$?^? ,#"~|)^G
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Re: Rusty rivets?
I have often used colored pencils to highlight rivets... takes just a few minutes Artist pencils are easy to use, sharp enough for tiny things, are really cheap, don't dry out, etc.
On 9/30/2019 4:49 AM, Garth Groff wrote:
Scott, --
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332
Glad to help. I have more of the cars in the museum but not sure where they are . Fenton
On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:39 PM Jim Betz <jimbetz@...> wrote: Fenton, --
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Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?
Gatwood, Elden J SAD
Thanks, guys!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
It is subtle, but I drybrush with a lighter version of the base coat, either a little yellow added to Freight Car Color (X31F), or even white in the case of the Alco S4 roof; see attached. Start subtle, add more if you feel the need, after looking at it a few days. Elden Gatwood
-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gatwood, Elden J SAD Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 8:47 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets? Scott; I am very fond of drybrushing rivets, over a background of dark rust wash in the seams and around the base of the rivets, to make them pop. See attached for example. Elden Gatwood -----Original Message----- From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of D. Scott Chatfield Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 12:27 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets? Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem. Thoughts? Scott Chatfield
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Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332
Fenton,
Not just a good pic for details but also a good pic for weathering effects on board sided freight cars. Even though the boards may have all been applied at the same time (some would be replacements) they don't weather at the same rate/in the same way. I've done several flat car decks with similar amounts of variation from board to board and they look great. I achieve that look by using different shades of several colors and hand painting each board/area - always being careful to -not- use only one shade on any one board. - Jim B. in Burlington, Wa.
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Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Steve and Friends,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thanks for your help with the gondola and the great photo. I completely forgot about the L&N, it not being a "Y'all" railroad that operates in Virginia or that I ever saw. The 4/1958 build date is almost the exact time my Virginia Midland is set in. A car from this class would look great just like the photo, delivering bagged product to Madison Farm Supply (one of the VM's main customers). The big problem is will I ever find time to build a model. We'll see. Nice color on the sacks too. Yours Aye, Garth
On 9/30/2019 7:14 AM, Steven D Johnson
wrote:
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Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?
Paul Doggett
Love the weathered look beautiful.
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Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?
Robert Allan
Great looking car - weathering is well rendered. Thanks for sharing.
Bob Allan
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Re: NP R23 clone reefer
Dennis Storzek
On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 10:16 AM, vapeurchapelon wrote:
I agree; I see a color separation here also. However, before everyone simply assumes the lighter graytone is some sort of red, keep in mind that all blacks don't necessarily match. Many coatings that would fall into the category of "car cement" were asphalt based and dried to sort of a gunmetal gray. Riding the elevated around Chicago in my younger days, I got to look at a LOT of flat roofs, and you could always tell those that were mopped with asphalt rather than tar by the color. However, in the general sense they were all black. I suspect the same is at work here; the coating used on the roof (to seal the laps and hopefully adhere better to the galvanized roof panels than paint would, doesn't match the black paint used on the ends and hardware, but this was acceptable, because the roof surface was going to be covered with soot soon after the car went in service anyway. Dennis Storzek
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Re: Rusty rivets?
Dennis Storzek
I happen to disagree with Scott's basic premise; that rivets are more likely to lose their paint than the surrounding metal, but for modeling rivets that have either been involved in a sideswipe or replaced and not painted, the solution is pretty easy, simply dry brush them with rust colored paint on one of those foam pad brushes, making sure it's dry enough that it only transfers paint to the raised bumps and not the base surface. One swipe and done.
Dennis Storzek
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Re: 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts
Thanks, Ben. I like the format with the sketches that
help identify the variations.
Steve Hile
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 10:06 AM To: STMFC Subject: [RealSTMFC] 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are
posted on the MARPM clinic website.
Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967"
handout:
- This is a first attempt to provide an
overview of the NYCS hopper fleet. Constructive comments, corrections and
additional information are welcome.
- For information on specific lot numbers,
including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on
Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot
number.
- I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta
Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own.
Ben Hom
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Re: 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts
gary laakso
Thank you for sharing the download site and thanks to all the find presenters willing to share their material with those of us who did not attend.
Gary Laakso Northwest of Mike Brock
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Benjamin Hom
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 8:06 AM To: STMFC <main@realstmfc.groups.io> Subject: [RealSTMFC] 2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts
Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are posted on the MARPM clinic website.
Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967" handout: - This is a first attempt to provide an overview of the NYCS hopper fleet. Constructive comments, corrections and additional information are welcome. - For information on specific lot numbers, including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot number. - I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own.
Ben Hom
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Re: Rusty rivets?
Hmm. Maybe email the folks at Archer and ask them for some rust coloured rivet decals?
Colin ‘t Hart Frösön, Sweden
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2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts
Benjamin Hom
Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are posted on the MARPM clinic website. Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967" handout: - This is a first attempt to provide an overview of the NYCS hopper fleet. Constructive comments, corrections and additional information are welcome. - For information on specific lot numbers, including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot number. - I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own. Ben Hom
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Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?
Gatwood, Elden J SAD
Scott;
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I am very fond of drybrushing rivets, over a background of dark rust wash in the seams and around the base of the rivets, to make them pop. See attached for example. Elden Gatwood
-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of D. Scott Chatfield Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 12:27 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets? Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem. Thoughts? Scott Chatfield
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Re: Rusty rivets?
Bob Webber
Do the same method as some use for wood. Paint an uneven coat of your favorite "rust", apply minute dabs of rubber cement, paint and finish the top coats, carefully sand or otw expose (and remove the cement) the protruding "rivets" - as much as little as the application requires.
At 11:26 PM 9/29/2019, you wrote: Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.Bob Webber
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Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA
Bill Welch
On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 06:49 AM, Bill Welch wrote:
NC&StL owned no gondolas with Dreadnaught ends.Correction, I spoke before coffee, the NC&StL owned 25 65-foot mill gons easily modeled w/Athearn model and Speedwitch ends and decals. Bill Welch
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Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA
Steven D Johnson
Garth,
It’s one of these ACF L&N low-side gondolas, built in 1958. See attached photo. I can provide series information, etc. later. Getting ready to head to work now.
Steve Johnson
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Garth Groff
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 5:24 AM To: RealSTMFC@groups.io Subject: [RealSTMFC] NC&STL GOLDOLA
Good friends,
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