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Re: Rusty rivets?
Hmm. Maybe email the folks at Archer and ask them for some rust coloured rivet decals?
Colin ‘t Hart Frösön, Sweden
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2019 Mid-Atlantic RPM Presentations/Handouts
Benjamin Hom
Some of the presentations from the 2019 MARPM held on 20-21 September are posted on the MARPM clinic website. Some comments regarding my "New York Central System Open Hoppers 1919-1967" handout: - This is a first attempt to provide an overview of the NYCS hopper fleet. Constructive comments, corrections and additional information are welcome. - For information on specific lot numbers, including number series and service longevity cross reference the information on Terry Link's website by doing a Ctrl+F search for the desired lot number. - I don't have a NYCS Specifications Rosetta Stone, so the description of each group of like cars is my own. Ben Hom
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Re: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets?
Gatwood, Elden J SAD
Scott;
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I am very fond of drybrushing rivets, over a background of dark rust wash in the seams and around the base of the rivets, to make them pop. See attached for example. Elden Gatwood
-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of D. Scott Chatfield Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 12:27 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: [Non-DoD Source] [RealSTMFC] Rusty rivets? Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem. Thoughts? Scott Chatfield
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Re: Rusty rivets?
Bob Webber
Do the same method as some use for wood. Paint an uneven coat of your favorite "rust", apply minute dabs of rubber cement, paint and finish the top coats, carefully sand or otw expose (and remove the cement) the protruding "rivets" - as much as little as the application requires.
At 11:26 PM 9/29/2019, you wrote: Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem.Bob Webber
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Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA
Bill Welch
On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 06:49 AM, Bill Welch wrote:
NC&StL owned no gondolas with Dreadnaught ends.Correction, I spoke before coffee, the NC&StL owned 25 65-foot mill gons easily modeled w/Athearn model and Speedwitch ends and decals. Bill Welch
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Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA
Steven D Johnson
Garth,
It’s one of these ACF L&N low-side gondolas, built in 1958. See attached photo. I can provide series information, etc. later. Getting ready to head to work now.
Steve Johnson
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Garth Groff
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 5:24 AM To: RealSTMFC@groups.io Subject: [RealSTMFC] NC&STL GOLDOLA
Good friends,
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RPM Chicagoland mini-kit
Eric Hansmann
RPM Chicagoland is just ahead on the calendar. A mini-kit of resin parts to upgrade a plastic freight car will be given to many early registrants. The kit and prototype are featured in the latest Resin Car Works blog post. http://blog.resincarworks.com/2019-rpm-chicagoland/ Eric Hansmann
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Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332
Well done Lester, with a little work an Accurail car can become a gem. Here's a photo I took of the car in 1988 wehn Duluth was part of my territory, Enjoy Fenton
On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 6:00 PM Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote: I have finished Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range single-sheathed Box Car 3332. It is an Accurail kit, number 4406. I have included a photo of the car prior to final paint and weathering with molded ladders removed and drop grab iron ladders and other DMIR details added. If you are interested, photos and writeup of the build including paint match are now on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company. If you would like to take a look please do at the following link: --
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Re: NC&STL GOLDOLA
Bill Welch
NC&StL owned no gondolas with Dreadnaught ends.
Bill Welch
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NC&STL GOLDOLA
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Good friends,
Attached is a photo I took of a Seaboard low-side gondola at Dillwyn, Virginia on the then-CSX Dillwyn Subdivision (now Buckingham Branch RR) around 1986. It appears to be an ex-NC&STL car, which would put it within our era of interest. Likely it was rebuilt with the sides strengthened. Any comments on its origins and original series numbers? The car is on a short siding that served Seay Milling Co., the local Southern States affiliate. This track was rarely used by Seay, and served (and still does) as a holding track to stash cars; the Dillwyn yard being pretty small. It was likely bound for loading at the Koppers woodlot about 1/2 mile further down the line. Koppers was, and still is, one of the branch's major shippers, but their track only holds 3-4 cars. Raw ties are still loaded there and sent to an off-line creosote plant. Stashing freight cars on somebody else's siding until needed is likely a pretty common thing on most railroads, but something we rarely do on our layouts. Something worth considering for how you operate your freight cars. Yours Aye, Garth Groff
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Re: Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332
Paul Doggett
Lester
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
That’s looking really neat. Paul Doggett. England 🏴
On 29 Sep 2019, at 23:00, Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote:
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Re: Rusty rivets?
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Scott,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
How about a teeny-tiny 00000 spotting brush, some thinned rust-colored acrylic paint, an Optivisor (for those of us older than Elvis) and a lot of patience? Yours Aye, Garth Groff
On 9/30/2019 12:26 AM, D. Scott
Chatfield wrote:
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Rusty rivets?
D. Scott Chatfield
Archer rivets and their clones have changed the way many of us approach kitbashing and scratchbuilding. But while looking at some prototype photos for current projects I noticed that what I really need are rust colored rivets, and they need to be applied after painting the car. I know most of you apply the rivets then paint the car, but I model post-1960 for the most part, when most riveted cars would have lost the paint over the rivets. Paint doesn't stick to rivets well, and that isn't just a post-1960 problem. Thoughts? Scott Chatfield
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Re: NP R23 clone reefer
leakinmywaders
Just to reiterate a point Jim Dick made, and Aaron hinted at, the NP was in general watched over by a hierarchy of engaged sticklers. While not completely unheard of, it was unusual for equipment to stray significantly from the specs in the official painting and lettering diagrams (as revised and noted on specific dates). This was so until the late 1960s, when mergeritis started setting in—and then mainly things went chaotically nonstandard mostly for lettering flat, gon, and hopper repaints, Less so for house cars.
Chris Frissell Polson, MT
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Re: Covered Hopper ID
mopacfirst
That part of Kansas overlays a very large gas field, the Hugoton. Could there have been a carbon black plant on the branch?
I know there was one owned by Cabot right off the Santa Fe mainline (now the Transcon) near Pampa, Texas, which is geographically interchangeable with western Kansas. Ron Merrick
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Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range boxcar 3332
Lester Breuer
I have finished Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range single-sheathed Box Car 3332. It is an Accurail kit, number 4406. I have included a photo of the car prior to final paint and weathering with molded ladders removed and drop grab iron ladders and other DMIR details added. If you are interested, photos and writeup of the build including paint match are now on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company. If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:
http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/ Lester Breuer
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Re: Rio Grande double-sheathed automobile car
BRIAN PAUL EHNI
Stunning job. Westerfield needs to do this car in HO.
Thanks! -- Brian Ehni On 9/28/19, 6:21 PM, "Richard Scott" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io on behalf of rlscott5709@gmail.com> wrote: Here's a photo of my most recent freight car project, an O-scale D&RGW double-sheathed automobile car. I built it from a Rails Unlimited resin body, painted it with Polly Scale acrylics, and lettered it with Protocraft decals. The 200 cars in the Rio Grande's 61200-61399 series were built by the Mount Vernon Car Company in 1925. Most remained in service into the 1960s, with the final car, 61346, going off the roster in 1969. I have other photos of my steam-era freight cars in "Dick Scott's models," currently on the first page of our photo section. Dick Scott
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Re: Covered Hopper ID
Ed Hawkins
David, Columbian Carbon’s reporting marks were CCX. For the referenced 1952 date of the photo, CCX car numbers ranged from 211-307, 95 cars in service as of 1/52. They were built in relatively small groups of 10 to 25 cars by ACF from 7-37 to 10-47. CCX 211-262, 52 cars, were originally built for Columbian Gasoline (SCNX 211-262) built 7-37 to 8-39 & transferred to CCX in the first half of 1940. ACF built 45 additional cars for CCX from 10-40 to 10-47. Two cars from original series 211-220 were apparently lost to attrition, one in 1943 & the other in 1949-1950. All of these cars had 3000 cu. ft. capacity. ACF builder photos with CCX reporting marks include 270, built 12-40, lot 2107, which was published on page 305, 1946 Car Builders’ Cyclopedia & page 248 of the 1949-1951 CBC. Other builder photos are 285, built 10-41, lot 2250 and 304, built 10-47, lot 3047. Scans of these photos are available from the Barriger National Railroad Library. Hope this helps. Regards, Ed Hawkins
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Re: Covered Hopper ID
The car in your photo is a Columbian Carbon ACF hopper of the type offered by the three different sources - representing the cars before they were all rebuilt to increase their capacity. There are no models of the rebuilt cars. Carbon black was produced in factories that burned natural gas and collected the carbon soot. I've attached a photo from the 2007 Naperville meet of a model of a facility that was built in west Texas.
On 9/29/2019 11:05 AM, David via Groups.Io wrote:
I'm curious about the covered hopper in the scan attached (hopefully). Image is on the Santa Fe in Medicine Lodge, KS 1952. --
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts
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Re: NP R23 clone reefer
vapeurchapelon
With this portion magnified - as odd as it certainly is, I can't deny to think that there is just a small black stripe at the roof top end, maybe 4 - 6 inches broad. Please see attached image section where I placed some red dots and compare with the original.
If that is complete bogus I apologize.
Johannes
Modeling the early post-war years up to about 1953
Gesendet: Samstag, 28. September 2019 um 14:34 Uhr
Von: "Fred Jansz" <fred@...> An: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Betreff: Re: [RealSTMFC] NP R23 clone reefer My last contribution to this thread:
- If the base color of the roof was black, why would overspray on the runboard be light gray (compared to the black of the ends)? - Or is it the anti-slip granulate we see as 'overspray' on the runboard? - the ends & hardware show as pure black in the picture. - the hatches show us 2 different hues of gray: around and under the lettering and on the rest of the hatch These 2 are significantly different, see picture and Photoshop measurement. (BTW: I can't believe the paint & lettering were added OVER the granulate, this part of the hatch was masked while adding the granulate). - Meaning the original roof paint is showing where the hatch-lettering can be seen. This also differs significantly from the black on the tackboard, see Photoshop measurements. My 2 (or 50) cents: Sides (of this NP R23 91072) chrome yellow, roof red (w granulate), ends & hardware black. cheers, Fred Jansz
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