Date   

Re: Barriger Library AC&F Photos

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Wasn’t that a wood kit, Don?  Northeastern?

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Donald B. Valentine via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 4:15 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Barriger Library AC&F Photos

 

    Actually Monsanto Chemical had a car of two like the Eastman car that operated out of their

plant in Revere. Mass., just north of Boston. Years ago someone made a foil wrapper for a kit 

of these cars. I suspect foil becase the cars were painted silver with black lettering. The tank 

cover was virtually the same but the dome was a bit different.

 

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: Barriger Library AC&F Photos

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

    Actually Monsanto Chemical had a car of two like the Eastman car that operated out of their
plant in Revere. Mass., just north of Boston. Years ago someone made a foil wrapper for a kit 
of these cars. I suspect foil becase the cars were painted silver with black lettering. The tank 
cover was virtually the same but the dome was a bit different.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: Help with decals

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Overspray, in my experience, seldom conceals the blushing.  Fix that first with the poking and slicing with the sharp edge.  I use a single edge razor blade.  Sharper than any exacto knife.

 

Schuyler

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of hubert mask
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 3:54 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Help with decals

 

Float the decal with micro set and draw the fluid out with a paper towel on the edge.  If you poke the decal with a knife it will show up when it drys.  Consider the type of paint.  It works better on gloss paints then tone it down with over spray will hide the film hopefully.    Main things is patients

 

 

Hubert Mask


On Apr 21, 2020, at 3:31 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:

Looks like Pierre has the right answer.

Fenton

 

On Tue, Apr 21, 2020 at 3:16 PM Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:

What paint did you use? And how long did you let it dry?
If it's Scalecoat you need to let it fully cure for 3-4 days.
It looks like lots of blushing, brush MicroSol(red bottle) and poke at all the blushing with a sharp pin or knife tip. You want setting solution in behind the entire decal.
It takes persistence

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com

On 2020-04-21 3:10 p.m., Chuck Cover wrote:

Group,

I have problems with the decals on some of my freight car builds.  I have attached a photo of one of my models and in places you can see the decal film between the lettering where it ideally should be invisible.  On some models this does not occur, on others, as this D&H boxcar, there is some sheen visible.  Are there specific steps that can be taken to prevent this?  If this occurs after decal application, are there ways to make it disappear?  Thanks in advance.

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM


 

--

Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd

Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: Help with decals

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Tim’s additions to Pierre’s basic recommendations are what I do as well.  IMHO it’s essential to float the decal in a puddle on the car side, and get it to settle down to the surface by wicking the water out at the edges.  I usually use a brushfull of the setting solution in that puddle, but that’s only an addition to the distilled water to begin with.

 

Getting the decal OFF the backing paper, floating in the dish, is good, as most decals have some unnecessary adhesive on the back side.  That adhesive isn’t really necessary, since we’re going to overcoat everything later anyway.  But be careful when picking up the floating decal – it can wrap around the tweezers/brush/toothpick and it can be a real bear to get it straightened out again.  Put it back in the water and poke it until it unfurls.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 3:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Help with decals

 


Yep - what Pierre said!

And ALSO -

use fresh distilled water - tepid warm water seems to work better

make sure the decal slides off the paper or is even floating in the water
  before you pick it up with tweezers - don't drag it off the paper

make sure the car side is clean and free of ALL particles - and of course
  a glossy smooth finish is best (easiest)

wet the car side before applying the decal and use your solution generously
  and (capillary action) siphon off excess slowly with a Q tip or piece of paper towel
  while making fine adjustments to the location

let it mostly dry and adhere, and wet it again - at this stage I like to use
a strong setting solution. I may do this several times with a stubborn decal or
trying to conform to a rivet or rib






On 4/21/2020 3:16 PM, Pierre Oliver wrote:

What paint did you use? And how long did you let it dry?
If it's Scalecoat you need to let it fully cure for 3-4 days.
It looks like lots of blushing, brush MicroSol(red bottle) and poke at all the blushing with a sharp pin or knife tip. You want setting solution in behind the entire decal.
It takes persistence

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com

On 2020-04-21 3:10 p.m., Chuck Cover wrote:

Group,

I have problems with the decals on some of my freight car builds.  I have attached a photo of one of my models and in places you can see the decal film between the lettering where it ideally should be invisible.  On some models this does not occur, on others, as this D&H boxcar, there is some sheen visible.  Are there specific steps that can be taken to prevent this?  If this occurs after decal application, are there ways to make it disappear?  Thanks in advance.

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Help with decals

Tim O'Connor
 

Todd

I find that I can pick up tiny decals with a fine, wet paintbrush, and transfer
them to the car with that - they slide smoothy off the wet brush

With older decals, and TINY bits, I often pre-treat them with Microscale liquid decal film.
I've not had problems making the film 'disappear'

No one has mentioned
RUNNING colors. I have had dark colors of large decals (like
giant UNION PACIFIC letters) actually RUN while the decal is wet! Quick, grab the paper
towels and Q-Tips and soak it up!!

So be prepared ! :-D




On 4/21/2020 3:51 PM, Todd Sullivan via groups.io wrote:
Tim's advice is good - thanks, Tim for adding more details and tips.

I keep finding that, with today's ever-thinner decals, I cannot reliably slide the decal off in the water and pick it up with tweezers and lay it on the model.  The darned decals always curl under, and no amount of prodding gets them to 'unfold'.  So, I pick up the decal and its backing paper and put them in a small pool of water on the car side, then gently prod and pull the decal off the backing.  Of course, this lets in demon backing paper 'dust' which I can rarely spot until the decal has dried.  I've tried flowing more water over the car surface to wash away such detritus before adding setting fluid, which helps.  Guess I need to try harder.

Todd Sullivan

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: ACY

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

  I agree Schuyler, and look at the neat ptches on the door in which a sheet of what was
probably galvanized sheet metal was nailed over the deteriorated wood. Talk about a 
rudimentary repair job!!

My best, Don Valentine


Re: Help with decals

hubert mask
 

Float the decal with micro set and draw the fluid out with a paper towel on the edge.  If you poke the decal with a knife it will show up when it drys.  Consider the type of paint.  It works better on gloss paints then tone it down with over spray will hide the film hopefully.    Main things is patients


Hubert Mask


On Apr 21, 2020, at 3:31 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:

Looks like Pierre has the right answer.
Fenton

On Tue, Apr 21, 2020 at 3:16 PM Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:

What paint did you use? And how long did you let it dry?
If it's Scalecoat you need to let it fully cure for 3-4 days.
It looks like lots of blushing, brush MicroSol(red bottle) and poke at all the blushing with a sharp pin or knife tip. You want setting solution in behind the entire decal.
It takes persistence

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 2020-04-21 3:10 p.m., Chuck Cover wrote:
Group,

I have problems with the decals on some of my freight car builds.  I have attached a photo of one of my models and in places you can see the decal film between the lettering where it ideally should be invisible.  On some models this does not occur, on others, as this D&H boxcar, there is some sheen visible.  Are there specific steps that can be taken to prevent this?  If this occurs after decal application, are there ways to make it disappear?  Thanks in advance.

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: Help with decals

Todd Sullivan
 

Tim's advice is good - thanks, Tim for adding more details and tips.

I keep finding that, with today's ever-thinner decals, I cannot reliably slide the decal off in the water and pick it up with tweezers and lay it on the model.  The darned decals always curl under, and no amount of prodding gets them to 'unfold'.  So, I pick up the decal and its backing paper and put them in a small pool of water on the car side, then gently prod and pull the decal off the backing.  Of course, this lets in demon backing paper 'dust' which I can rarely spot until the decal has dried.  I've tried flowing more water over the car surface to wash away such detritus before adding setting fluid, which helps.  Guess I need to try harder.

Todd Sullivan


Re: ACY

Tim O'Connor
 


Clark

Ex-D&RGW series 61200 to 61499



On 4/21/2020 3:46 PM, Clark Propst wrote:
Here's a Soph Marty photo of another ACY car with some character ;  ))

The steel yellow cars came with red or black lettering had to do with ownership I believe?
CW Propst

Attachments:



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Yellow freight cars (was RE: Photo: CIM Boxcar 8183)

Tim O'Connor
 


That USRE rehab box car is an ex-New Haven PS-1 built in 1947 with 7 foot doors


On 4/21/2020 1:18 PM, Schuyler Larrabee via groups.io wrote:

For example:

 

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/acy/acy3217d19.jpg

 

I know many of you are aware of the Fallen Flags site. But it seems not to be referred to very often.  Or supported?  It’s a labor of love and depends on donations for support.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Brian Carlson via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 1:13 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Yellow freight cars (was RE: Photo: CIM Boxcar 8183)

 

ACY had yellow cars post 1960. 

Brian J. Carlson 



On Apr 21, 2020, at 12:56 PM, Aley, Jeff A <jeff.a.aley@...> wrote:



Re: Yellow freight cars – clearly Don meant boxcars; otherwise I’d submit UP’s stock cars, which were yellow.

 

Did the AC&Y have yellow box cars?  I have a Bev-Bel-decorated Athearn box car that I got when I was a kid.  I have no idea how unprototypical it is.

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Donald B. Valentine via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 4:56 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Photo: CIM Boxcar 8183

 

   But I think Dave may be correct as well,Bill.I seem to remember a Mainline Models kit for the C&IM car 

only it was a model of a 40 ft. car and not very acceptable as an accurate Mather car. But you are correct,

of course, in that they were yellow and they had a diamond herald on their doors. The C&IM cars are the 

only freight cars I can recall that were yellow except the MKT and TH&B cars.

 

My best, Don Valentine



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: ACY

Clark Propst
 

Here's a Soph Marty photo of another ACY car with some character ;  ))

The steel yellow cars came with red or black lettering had to do with ownership I believe?
CW Propst


Re: Help with decals

Tim O'Connor
 


Yep - what Pierre said!

And ALSO -

use fresh distilled water - tepid warm water seems to work better

make sure the decal slides off the paper or is even floating in the water
  before you pick it up with tweezers - don't drag it off the paper

make sure the car side is clean and free of ALL particles - and of course
  a glossy smooth finish is best (easiest)

wet the car side before applying the decal and use your solution generously
  and (capillary action) siphon off excess slowly with a Q tip or piece of paper towel
  while making fine adjustments to the location

let it mostly dry and adhere, and wet it again - at this stage I like to use
a strong setting solution. I may do this several times with a stubborn decal or
trying to conform to a rivet or rib






On 4/21/2020 3:16 PM, Pierre Oliver wrote:

What paint did you use? And how long did you let it dry?
If it's Scalecoat you need to let it fully cure for 3-4 days.
It looks like lots of blushing, brush MicroSol(red bottle) and poke at all the blushing with a sharp pin or knife tip. You want setting solution in behind the entire decal.
It takes persistence

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 2020-04-21 3:10 p.m., Chuck Cover wrote:
Group,

I have problems with the decals on some of my freight car builds.  I have attached a photo of one of my models and in places you can see the decal film between the lettering where it ideally should be invisible.  On some models this does not occur, on others, as this D&H boxcar, there is some sheen visible.  Are there specific steps that can be taken to prevent this?  If this occurs after decal application, are there ways to make it disappear?  Thanks in advance.

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Help with decals

Todd Sullivan
 

Hi Chuck,

I recently built a 3D printed Utah Coal Route gondola, and had the same problem with half the decal pieces I put on the model.  The 3D printing of the model leaves small striations in the surface, which were still evident after painting with rattle can Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black.  The decals definitely do not like that kind of surface!  The silvering is caused by air underneath the decal film, so we need to let the air out.  I am still working on getting all of them to adhere well, and I am using the technique suggested by Pierre: poke and/or score the decal with the tip of a very sharp hobby knife (Xacto #11 blade), then put decal setting solution (Walthers Solvaset in my case) on top and around the edges of the decal.  It takes multiple applications of the setting solution to get the decals to settle down, and you have to watch for the silvering underneath throughout the process.  Persistence does pay off! 

I hope this helps, and good luck with getting the air out!

Todd Sullivan


Re: ACY

Schuyler Larrabee
 

No Tim.  I mean 1260 is a nice enough normal freight car, but 3179 has CHARACTER.  Kind of like Clint Eastwood with a grizzled beard and all squinty-eyed.  By comparison, 1260’s a Sunday school kid.

 

But I acknowledge the Hendrickson directive:  do not model the exception.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 3:21 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] ACY

 


Schuyler, you may have meant THIS car - a standard height Mather

============================

On 4/21/2020 1:23 PM, Schuyler Larrabee via groups.io wrote:

However, not all ACY cars got yellow paint . . .

 

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/acy/acy3179ajw.jpg

 

What a  wonderfully modelable car!!

 

Schuyler

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Help with decals

O Fenton Wells
 

Looks like Pierre has the right answer.
Fenton

On Tue, Apr 21, 2020 at 3:16 PM Pierre Oliver <pierre.oliver@...> wrote:

What paint did you use? And how long did you let it dry?
If it's Scalecoat you need to let it fully cure for 3-4 days.
It looks like lots of blushing, brush MicroSol(red bottle) and poke at all the blushing with a sharp pin or knife tip. You want setting solution in behind the entire decal.
It takes persistence

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 2020-04-21 3:10 p.m., Chuck Cover wrote:
Group,

I have problems with the decals on some of my freight car builds.  I have attached a photo of one of my models and in places you can see the decal film between the lettering where it ideally should be invisible.  On some models this does not occur, on others, as this D&H boxcar, there is some sheen visible.  Are there specific steps that can be taken to prevent this?  If this occurs after decal application, are there ways to make it disappear?  Thanks in advance.

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: Barriger Library AC&F Photos

Tim O'Connor
 

Some people call those "mailbox" tank cars. They were around, under various owners,
even into the mid to late 1960's (if not later).

On 4/18/2020 6:12 PM, Geodyssey wrote:
I don't think I've seen an insulated tank like this USOX 17021. Tennessee Eastman Corp. Holston Ordanance Works nitric acid loading.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/barrigerlibrary/49618638478/in/album-72157649155982802/

Rob Simpson
Springfield
--
*Tim O'Connor*
*Sterling, Massachusetts*


Re: ACY

Tim O'Connor
 


Schuyler, you may have meant THIS car - a standard height Mather

============================

On 4/21/2020 1:23 PM, Schuyler Larrabee via groups.io wrote:

However, not all ACY cars got yellow paint . . .

 

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/acy/acy3179ajw.jpg

 

What a  wonderfully modelable car!!

 

Schuyler



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Help with decals

Pierre Oliver
 

What paint did you use? And how long did you let it dry?
If it's Scalecoat you need to let it fully cure for 3-4 days.
It looks like lots of blushing, brush MicroSol(red bottle) and poke at all the blushing with a sharp pin or knife tip. You want setting solution in behind the entire decal.
It takes persistence

Pierre Oliver
www.elgincarshops.com
www.yarmouthmodelworks.com
On 2020-04-21 3:10 p.m., Chuck Cover wrote:

Group,

I have problems with the decals on some of my freight car builds.  I have attached a photo of one of my models and in places you can see the decal film between the lettering where it ideally should be invisible.  On some models this does not occur, on others, as this D&H boxcar, there is some sheen visible.  Are there specific steps that can be taken to prevent this?  If this occurs after decal application, are there ways to make it disappear?  Thanks in advance.

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM


Re: ACY

Tim O'Connor
 


Can this ACY car be modeled? Yes. Without scratcbuilding? No.



On 4/21/2020 1:23 PM, Schuyler Larrabee via groups.io wrote:

However, not all ACY cars got yellow paint . . .

 

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/acy/acy3179ajw.jpg

 

What a  wonderfully modelable car!!

 

Schuyler



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Help with decals

Chuck Cover
 

Group,

I have problems with the decals on some of my freight car builds.  I have attached a photo of one of my models and in places you can see the decal film between the lettering where it ideally should be invisible.  On some models this does not occur, on others, as this D&H boxcar, there is some sheen visible.  Are there specific steps that can be taken to prevent this?  If this occurs after decal application, are there ways to make it disappear?  Thanks in advance.

Chuck Cover
Santa Fe, NM

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