Date   

Re: Painting brass

John Barry
 

Joe,

Maybe we should hang blue flags on the common equipment when we are using it to prevent such incidents?

John

John Barry
 
ATSF North Bay Lines 
Golden Gates & Fast Freights 
Lovettsville, VA

707-490-9696 

PO Box 44736 
Washington, DC 20026-4736


On Saturday, April 18, 2020, 04:13:40 PM EDT, Joseph <mstl852@...> wrote:


That happened to a buddy of mine.  He was baking a passenger car, went downstairs to work on something else.  His wife came home to make cookies and raised the oven temp.  The car was later sent to a friend to have it re assembled.  His house burned down. 

I have melted a Walthers H10-44 shell while trying to set Scalecoat.   My kids learned all kinds of new words that day. 
I keep that shell around so if I start to get cocky it brings me back to reality. 

Joe Binish
New Hope , MN



On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 2:57 PM John Larkin via groups.io <jflarkingrc=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Mont,

Did you consider the model to be "well-done" after the first baking?   (Groan!)

John Larkin



On Saturday, April 18, 2020, 2:52:12 PM CDT, BRIAN PAUL EHNI <bpehni@...> wrote:


In my case, I have to set the oven to 170ºF, because it won’t go any lower. So when it hits 150ºF, I’d put the model in and turn it off.

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Mont Switzer <MSwitzer@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Saturday, April 18, 2020 at 2:39 PM
To: "main@RealSTMFC.groups.io" <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Painting brass

 

Many years ago I learned a hard lesson about baking brass models.  In conjunction with that lesson I also got to learn how to re-assemble some brass models.  After that I still used Mrs. Switzer's oven, but I went about it differently.  I now use the following steps:

 

1. preheat the oven to 150 degrees (I'm not disagreeing with 185 degrees)

2. when the light indicates the oven is at 150 degrees (pre-heat completed) turn it off

3. insert models

4. allow oven to cool and remove models 

 

The bad experience I had may have been a defect in the oven, but I'm not going to find out a second time.  I had placed the models in the oven and set it to pre-heat to 150 degrees.  It appears that during the pre-heating process the oven went well above 150 to bring the oven to the desired temperature.  That temperature was high enough to melt solder.

 

Mont Switzer


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] on behalf of bob.stetser@... [bob.stetser@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 7:29 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Painting brass

Soak in lacquer thinner for a couple of hours to remove whatever is on the model.

Run twice in the ultrasonic cleaner, let dry

Spray, from rattle can, Rust-Oleum Primer, SELF ETCHING PRIMER, let dry

Spray with airbrush color of choice.

Bake 1 hour in oven at 185 degrees, leave in oven until cool.


Re: Barriger Library AC&F Photos

John Barry
 

Very interesting.  GAPX is not listed as a registered reporting mark in either the Jan or Apr 43 nor the Oct 44 ORER.

John Barry
 
ATSF North Bay Lines 
Golden Gates & Fast Freights 
Lovettsville, VA

707-490-9696 

PO Box 44736 
Washington, DC 20026-4736


On Saturday, April 18, 2020, 04:10:34 PM EDT, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:


David,

As usual, very interesting! 

Just a few photos up from SHPX 17520 is this Carnegie Steel Slab Cooling Car, lettered for the War Department Ordnance:

SHPX 1750 is a "classic" USG-A that could be modeled from a Tichy tank and IM type 27 under frame.

USQX 11200 shows have the USG-A cars  for USQX had a GATC-style frame (built by AC&F) and an AC&F tank.

NdeM 4305 presents an interesting issue. It too is a "classic" USG-A, except that it has a horizontal shaft hand brake. When I looked at the photo I wondered why we (the USA) were building cars for Mexico, when we were desperately short ourselves. In a post in 2008, ( #72832) Richard Hendrickson indicates that the War Production Board apparently had the same question and at least some of the NdeM cars were redirected to SHPX. This may in fact be one of those cars, and it would actually not have left Milton in this paint....

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL



From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of David via groups.io <jaydeet2001@...>
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 8:01 AM
To: RealSTMFC@groups.io <RealSTMFC@groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Barriger Library AC&F Photos
 
After taking a break for a year or so, some early-1940s AC&F builder's
photos have been added to the Flickr page, including several USG-A
4-course tanks.

SHPX 17520:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/barrigerlibrary/49619124151/in/album-72157649155982802/

USQX 11200 :
https://www.flickr.com/photos/barrigerlibrary/49619388297/in/album-72157649155982802/

NdeM 45305:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/barrigerlibrary/49618608328/in/album-72157649155982802/

David Thompson




Re: Red Caboose Mather Meat reefers

Bruce Griffin
 

Andy and Ron,

Thank you.  I did look at the Mather Stock Car brake arrangement yesterday figuring they would be similar as the company seemed to prefer simple and consistent for ease of maintenance.  

Bruce D. Griffin

Ashland, MD
https://bomodeling.com/blog/

 


Re: Red Caboose Mather Meat reefers

Andy Cich
 

Proto 2000 produced both the Mather stock car and Mather box car with AB brakes. Since the reefer has a similar underframe, I copied the Proto cars. Lacking any better information, that seemed the best to me.

 

Andy Cich

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bruce Griffin
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 8:13 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Red Caboose Mather Meat reefers

 

Friends,

Does anyone have any idea what the 1940s update to AB brake layout for 38’ Mather meat reefers may have looked like? The kits come with K Brakes and included history indicate the upgrades took place in the 40s. Thank you. 

Bruce D. Griffin
Ashland, MD
https://bomodeling.com/blog/

 


Re: Boiler Load On Flat Car

Nelson Moyer
 

RCW includes the YMW tank car straps with the boiler load.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 8:33 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Boiler Load On Flat Car

 

For straps you might want to use some etched tank car straps from Yarmouth Model Works:

https://www.yarmouthmodelworks.com/index.php/ModelDetailParts/Miscellaneous

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

Ken Vandevoort <apo09324@...>
 

If anyone is looking for a photo of a particular tractor, I lived a block away from the Midwest Old Settlers and Threshers Reunion in Mount Pleasant, Iowa for 10 years and photographed tractors there longer than that.  If you need a close up of a particular detail, wait until Labor Day weekend and I will look for it.  Attached is a photo that became a jigsaw puzzle for the Henry County Heritage Trust a few years ago.  As you can see in the photo, not every Farmall was red.

Ken Vandevoort
New London, IA


Re: B&M XM1 trucks

Clark Propst
 

Thanks everybody, much appreciated. I had a package of the Red Caboose trucks. Being the label had PRR on it I never looked that close. They are now under the car.
Now if that order of KD couplers would show up....
CW Propst


Re: Boiler Load On Flat Car (Multiscale Digital Boilers)

Bob Chaparro
 

Multiscale Digital Boilers

Here are the boilers from the company's website:

HO Scale

https://multiscale.digital/collections/ho-1-87/products/ho-scale-birchfield-industrial-fire-tube-boiler-flatcar-load

N Scale

https://multiscale.digital/collections/n-1-160/products/n-scale-birchfield-industrial-fire-tube-boiler-flatcar-load-1

Some of the 3D printed surfaces look a little grainy to me.

Any comments or thoughts on how to remedy this?

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Painting brass

Hudson Leighton <hudsonl@...>
 


Re: Boiler Load On Flat Car

Bob Chaparro
 

For straps you might want to use some etched tank car straps from Yarmouth Model Works:

https://www.yarmouthmodelworks.com/index.php/ModelDetailParts/Miscellaneous

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Red Caboose Mather Meat reefers

mopacfirst
 

No real idea, but I faked it.  Just used somebody's AB brake set in what seemed to be a logical arrangement.  By the way, the car was a general service MUNX reporting mark.

The K brake set was Delrin, I think, if that matters.

Ron Merrick


Red Caboose Mather Meat reefers

Bruce Griffin
 

Friends,

Does anyone have any idea what the 1940s update to AB brake layout for 38’ Mather meat reefers may have looked like? The kits come with K Brakes and included history indicate the upgrades took place in the 40s. Thank you. 

Bruce D. Griffin
Ashland, MD
https://bomodeling.com/blog/

 


Re: Meat reefers

Bruce Griffin
 


--
 

 

Bruce D. Griffin
Ashland, MD
https://bomodeling.com/blog/

 


Re: FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

Nelson Moyer
 

I guess you can’t depend upon the number of stake pockets to estimate the length of a flat car.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Douglas Harding
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 6:45 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

 

As cited in my previous message, the WCFN flatcar was 48’6” long, 3’6” longer than the CBQ FM-11.

 

 

Doug  Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 1:31 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

 

Doug provided the history for the WCFN, but if you’re interested in the flat car, it’s very similar to the CB&Q FM-11/11A flat cars built between 1928 and 1930, and they too rode on Andrews trucks. The major difference is length, as the WCFN car is probably 40 ft. or 42 ft. and the CB&Q car was 45 ft. The only visible difference other than length is the FM-11 has 13 stake pockets per side and the WCFN car has 12 stake pockets. The Q cars ran into the 1970s with many converted to TOFC service. A few FM-11As were converted to push plow service by installing a wedge blade on one end and building a box on the deck to hold boulders for ballast. A resin kit is available from Jerry Hamsmith with CB&Q decals. It’s a very well designed kit and relatively easy to build.

 

Nelson Moyer                                                                                           

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Lloyd Keyser
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 11:23 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

 

I would like to know more about that flat car. It appears to be on Andrews trucks

Lloyd Keyser

 

On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 7:57 AM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

Sounds like the best way to way to go is to check the business listings in phone books for the year you model in the towns you model and see what you find. Another resource here in Iowa is centennial books – many towns and counties issued them in conjunction with their centennial.  While finding centennial books in public libraries has been easy, finding period phone books has been challenging.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2020 11:41 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

 

On Fri, Apr 17, 2020 at 11:58 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

With all this talk of tractor loads, I'm wondering if there were regional followings for either Farmall red or John Deere green. I remember seeing mostly red in Indiana in the 1940 and 1950 on visits to the grandparent's farm. With plants in Moline and Waterloo, would John Deere be more prevalent in Iowa than Farmall?

Jim Ogden touched on this but let me add, it's more granular than that. It didn't really matter where the factory was - the factory could ship nationwide - that's why we see photos of tractors on flatcars. What really mattered is where their distributors were. You're not going to see a flatcar load of green tractors spotted at the team track ramp of a town with only an IH distributorship. That would be red tractor territory. Farmers tended to buy what they could easily get serviced. No sense buying a tractor from a dealer two towns over unless the price was really good. The overlap between territories has of course expanded as highways have gotten better, but that regionallity does still exist. Case in point, when I used to drive US 20 out to Freeport every six weeks or so, I'd pass a New Holland dealer about halfway between Rockford and Freeport. That area is the only place I ever recall seeing New Holland equipment working the fields.

Dennis Storzek

 


Re: F&C LV box car

Rob & Bev Manley
 

Back atcha my brutha.

Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Friday, April 17, 2020, 01:23:06 PM CDT, Rob & Bev Manley <robev1630@...> wrote:




Rob Manley
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"


On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, 05:29:23 PM CDT, Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote:


bill woelfel
2:09pm   #171723  
Car knocker will bad order that car, no couplers!  

The car in not in it's natural habitat. This car had a Duryea underframe. I'm waiting for an order of Kadee 197s. Those are the ones with the narrow boxes because the boxes will stick out a ways passed the ends. I'll have a photo of the car on the layout when the couplers arrive.

Thanks!!
CW Propst


Re: FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

Douglas Harding
 

As cited in my previous message, the WCFN flatcar was 48’6” long, 3’6” longer than the CBQ FM-11.

 

 

Doug  Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 1:31 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

 

Doug provided the history for the WCFN, but if you’re interested in the flat car, it’s very similar to the CB&Q FM-11/11A flat cars built between 1928 and 1930, and they too rode on Andrews trucks. The major difference is length, as the WCFN car is probably 40 ft. or 42 ft. and the CB&Q car was 45 ft. The only visible difference other than length is the FM-11 has 13 stake pockets per side and the WCFN car has 12 stake pockets. The Q cars ran into the 1970s with many converted to TOFC service. A few FM-11As were converted to push plow service by installing a wedge blade on one end and building a box on the deck to hold boulders for ballast. A resin kit is available from Jerry Hamsmith with CB&Q decals. It’s a very well designed kit and relatively easy to build.

 

Nelson Moyer                                                                                           

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Lloyd Keyser
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 11:23 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

 

I would like to know more about that flat car. It appears to be on Andrews trucks

Lloyd Keyser

 

On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 7:57 AM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

Sounds like the best way to way to go is to check the business listings in phone books for the year you model in the towns you model and see what you find. Another resource here in Iowa is centennial books – many towns and counties issued them in conjunction with their centennial.  While finding centennial books in public libraries has been easy, finding period phone books has been challenging.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2020 11:41 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] FARMALL TRACTOR DECALS

 

On Fri, Apr 17, 2020 at 11:58 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

With all this talk of tractor loads, I'm wondering if there were regional followings for either Farmall red or John Deere green. I remember seeing mostly red in Indiana in the 1940 and 1950 on visits to the grandparent's farm. With plants in Moline and Waterloo, would John Deere be more prevalent in Iowa than Farmall?

Jim Ogden touched on this but let me add, it's more granular than that. It didn't really matter where the factory was - the factory could ship nationwide - that's why we see photos of tractors on flatcars. What really mattered is where their distributors were. You're not going to see a flatcar load of green tractors spotted at the team track ramp of a town with only an IH distributorship. That would be red tractor territory. Farmers tended to buy what they could easily get serviced. No sense buying a tractor from a dealer two towns over unless the price was really good. The overlap between territories has of course expanded as highways have gotten better, but that regionallity does still exist. Case in point, when I used to drive US 20 out to Freeport every six weeks or so, I'd pass a New Holland dealer about halfway between Rockford and Freeport. That area is the only place I ever recall seeing New Holland equipment working the fields.

Dennis Storzek

 


Re: Painting brass

John Sykes III
 

I use a modified Hoxie method.  Clean with lacquer thinner, Spray with Scalecoat I using Xylenes to thin and put in a 200 degree oven, then turn it off.

Here in Florida, one time, I painted the roof of a Rivarossi passenger car black and put it out into the sun to dry.  It partially melted and crazed into a blob.

-- John


Re: Painting brass

Mont Switzer
 

Looks like a good plan B for when I get kicked out of the kitchen.  Mont Switzer


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] on behalf of Joseph [Mstl852@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 4:29 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Painting brass

I now use a plastic tote w a 100 w bulb.  I have to put something to block the direct light to plastic shells as I have melted a Stewart F unit shell.  I put a piece of 2x4 in the tote and put the shell in the shadow and there is no melting, brass is no problem
Joe Binish
New Hope, MN

On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 3:26 PM Allen Cain <Allencaintn@...> wrote:
Has anyone tried MicroMark's drying booth?


A bit pricey but so are brass engines.

Allen Cain 


Re: Boiler Load On Flat Car

Guy Wilber
 

Allen wrote:

“Now, can someone suggest materials and methods for tie downs?”

See attached pdf.

Guy Wilber
Reno, Nevada


Re: Boiler Load On Flat Car

Nelson Moyer
 

On second thought, here’s my version of the Kewanee boiler load.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Allen Cain
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 4:17 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Boiler Load On Flat Car

 

Just got my Birchfield boilers from Multiscale Digital and they look great.

I have attached to photos of three boilers staged on a flatcar to simulate the load shown in the Birchfield Boiler photo that started this thread.  I used two HO and one N scale boiler and I think that they will look great.  And yes, the height of the car with the tallest boiler is within the NMRA standards with a little room to spare.

Now, can someone suggest materials and methods for tie downs?

Thanks,

Allen Cain

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