Date   

Re: Automobile Loading Suggestions

Tony Thompson
 

Hugh Guillaume wrote:

The posts about the crated automobile prompted me to make this post.  The subject area of this post is actually the title of a thirty page booklet published in the twenties by the Evans Auto Loading Company, Inc., Dime Bank Building, Detroit.  It shows everything a railroad company needed to know about loading automobiles into forty-foot boxcars.  There are literally dozens of illustrations.  I am willing to share it with the group but, quite frankly, I do not know how.  

      If you can scan the pages, or get them scanned, you can post the document as a PDF on Google Drive for free.

Tony Thompson
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
e-mail: tony@...


Re: PRR Container Flat 473267

Donald B. Valentine <riverman_vt@...>
 

Nice work Lester but such model bring up a question. How far did such early containerization equipment
stray from the railroad that owned it? I have no idea about this but recall that the movement of early
piggyback equipment was limited to a few very narrow corridors and wonder if the movement of other
such early equipment was equally restricted.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Ken Vandevoort <apo09324@...>
 

Is the Tyvek the same as the Tyvek housewrap you can find at Lowe's and other places?
Ken Vandevoort


Automobile Loading Suggestions

 

The posts about the crated automobile prompted me to make this post.  The subject area of this post is actually the title of a thirty page booklet published in the twenties by the Evans Auto Loading Company, Inc., Dime Bank Building, Detroit.  It shows everything a railroad company needed to know about loading automobiles into forty-foot boxcars.  There are literally dozens of illustrations.  I am willing to share it with the group but, quite frankly, I do not know how.  Hugh T Guillaume


Re: Crated Automobile

Eric Hansmann
 

It's a Santa Fe boxcar.


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN


On August 18, 2019 at 1:04 PM gary laakso <vasa0vasa@...> wrote:

The auto box with the end door is an interesting design with the flat,  wide riveted end panels holding a much more narrow door.

 

Gary Laakso

Northwest of Mike Brock

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2019 10:56 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Crated Automobile

 

Crated Automobile

Automobile probably for export. No date or other information.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gmpullman/48256484931/in/photostream/

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

 



 


 


Re: Crated Automobile

gary laakso
 

The auto box with the end door is an interesting design with the flat,  wide riveted end panels holding a much more narrow door.

 

Gary Laakso

Northwest of Mike Brock

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2019 10:56 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Crated Automobile

 

Crated Automobile

Automobile probably for export. No date or other information.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gmpullman/48256484931/in/photostream/

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Crated Automobile

Brian Rochon
 

The logo on the radiator could be from the Hudson Motor Car Company.

 

Brian Rochon

Silver Spring, MD

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Chaparro via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2019 1:56 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Crated Automobile

 

Crated Automobile

Automobile probably for export. No date or other information.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gmpullman/48256484931/in/photostream/

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Rod Miller
 

On 8/18/19 11:01 AM, Tim O'Connor wrote:
Thicknessness and properties of the material vary. I'm still looking for a source
for the "soft" Tyvek material like the sheets packed with models from China. You can
write on Tyvek too, which mitigates the opacity problem.
Like Denny, I bought a package of the Reboxx model wrappers years ago - great stuff.
But it won't last much longer.
Tim
On 8/18/2019 1:49 PM, Benjamin Hom wrote:
Tim O'Connor wrote:
"And then there's TYVEK - lint free, pH neutral, tear resistant, water resistant,
won't mar or scratch or interact with paint. Only available in rolls from Uline
but a single roll is good for hundreds of freight car models."

There's a free supply of Tyvek at the Post Office in the form of the large Priority Mail and Express Mail envelopes.


Ben Hom
--
/*Tim O'Connor*/
/*Sterling, Massachusetts*/
The USPS has enough problems without modelers scooping
up all its Tyvek envelopes. You don't have to buy a full
roll of Tyvek. ebay sellers sell it by the foot. Another
option is to watch homes under construction. Here in CA
the exterior at some point gets wrapped in Tyvek - I'm
sure the builder would give you some.

--
Rod Miller
Handcraftsman
===
Custom 2-rail O Scale Models: Drives,
Repairs, Steam Loco Building, More
http://www.rodmiller.com


Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Andy Carlson
 

I have a 26 ft x 5 ft train work room. I made the ceiling with stretched Tyvek from a lumber yard. I have 4 LED shop lights above the ceiling and the Tyvek allows ample diffused light to pass through. I am quite pleased!
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

On Sunday, August 18, 2019, 11:01:34 AM PDT, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:



Thicknessness and properties of the material vary. I'm still looking for a source
for the "soft" Tyvek material like the sheets packed with models from China. You can
write on Tyvek too, which mitigates the opacity problem.

Like Denny, I bought a package of the Reboxx model wrappers years ago - great stuff.
But it won't last much longer.

Tim



On 8/18/2019 1:49 PM, Benjamin Hom wrote:

Tim O'Connor wrote:
"And then there's TYVEK - lint free, pH neutral, tear resistant, water resistant,
won't mar or scratch or interact with paint. Only available in rolls from Uline
but a single roll is good for hundreds of freight car models."

There's a free supply of Tyvek at the Post Office in the form of the large Priority Mail and Express Mail envelopes.


Ben Hom


_._,_._,_


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Tim O'Connor
 


Thicknessness and properties of the material vary. I'm still looking for a source
for the "soft" Tyvek material like the sheets packed with models from China. You can
write on Tyvek too, which mitigates the opacity problem.

Like Denny, I bought a package of the Reboxx model wrappers years ago - great stuff.
But it won't last much longer.

Tim



On 8/18/2019 1:49 PM, Benjamin Hom wrote:
Tim O'Connor wrote:
"And then there's TYVEK - lint free, pH neutral, tear resistant, water resistant,
won't mar or scratch or interact with paint. Only available in rolls from Uline
but a single roll is good for hundreds of freight car models."

There's a free supply of Tyvek at the Post Office in the form of the large Priority Mail and Express Mail envelopes.


Ben Hom


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

C J Wyatt
 

Free? only if you are using them to send something via Priority Mail or Express Mail. Otherwise you may be committing a Federal offense.

Jack Wyatt

On Sunday, August 18, 2019, 01:49:33 PM EDT, Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:


Tim O'Connor wrote:
"And then there's TYVEK - lint free, pH neutral, tear resistant, water resistant,
won't mar or scratch or interact with paint. Only available in rolls from Uline
but a single roll is good for hundreds of freight car models."

There's a free supply of Tyvek at the Post Office in the form of the large Priority Mail and Express Mail envelopes.


Ben Hom


Crated Automobile

Bob Chaparro
 

Crated Automobile

Automobile probably for export. No date or other information.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gmpullman/48256484931/in/photostream/

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Benjamin Hom
 

Tim O'Connor wrote:
"And then there's TYVEK - lint free, pH neutral, tear resistant, water resistant,
won't mar or scratch or interact with paint. Only available in rolls from Uline
but a single roll is good for hundreds of freight car models."

There's a free supply of Tyvek at the Post Office in the form of the large Priority Mail and Express Mail envelopes.


Ben Hom


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Tim O'Connor
 


And then there's
TYVEK - lint free, pH neutral, tear resistant, water resistant,
won't mar or scratch or interact with paint. Only available in rolls from Uline
but a single roll is good for hundreds of freight car models.

https://www.uline.com/BL_1969/Tyvek-Rolls

If you've bought any RTR models from China from Athearn or others, then you've
probably noticed that weird, soft material that protects the models in their packages.

Tim O'Connor

===============================

On 8/17/2019 8:03 PM, Tony Thompson wrote:
Personally, I use the Hendrickson method: place model in plastic sandwich bag, wrap loosely with paper towel, about two layers or so. No abrasion and minimal mechanical damage.
Tony Thompson 


On Aug 17, 2019, at 9:46 AM, Edward <edb8391@...> wrote:

Its best to use acid free tissue paper as the first wrapper for a model, before using bubble wrap or sheet foam for cushioning.
Well worth its additional cost.
Ed Bommer


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


PRR Container Flat 473267

Lester Breuer
 

I have finished Pennsylvania Railroad Container Flat Car 473267 with a load of DD1 “merchandise” containers.  A Funaro & Camerlengo resin kit, number 8120.  If you are interested, photos and writeup of building and finishing  PRR Container Flat with DD1 containers are now on my blog I have to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following link:

http://mnrailroadcab100.blogspot.com/

Lester Breuer


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
 

The routine processing method that the California State Railroad Museum uses with its vast collection of toy and scale model railroad models is to wrap them first in Tyvek, a synthetic neutral paper of recognized archival quality. This replaces all other wraps, e.g. bubble, tissue, saran, etc. I personally use the high grade cut plastic sheet wraps from Reboxx (no longer available) from a dwindling inventory. They have the great advantage that I can identify directly what is inside the wrap.

I believe that all of the plastic wraps that are currently packed with about everything that arrives in this mail order economy should be considered suspect. One can safely presume that no one on the other end is or has had the least concern in this regard about single use products usually heading directly to the landfill.

Tony’s comment on Richard Hendrickson’s use of baggies or Ziplocks has validity inasmuch as at least the interiors of these food grade plastic bags are reportedly completely free of the destructive plasticizer contaminants mentioned by Dennis (as to Dennis’ report that the auto manufacturers have solved the windshield problems caused by the outgassing of the vinyl dashboard coverings, I can directly report that at least on my pretty new cars, they still have….not).

Presumably, Saran and similar food grade wraps also would lack placticizers.

Denny


Denny S. Anspach MD
Okoboji, IA


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Tony Thompson
 

Personally, I use the Hendrickson method: place model in plastic sandwich bag, wrap loosely with paper towel, about two layers or so. No abrasion and minimal mechanical damage.
Tony Thompson 


On Aug 17, 2019, at 9:46 AM, Edward <edb8391@...> wrote:

Its best to use acid free tissue paper as the first wrapper for a model, before using bubble wrap or sheet foam for cushioning.
Well worth its additional cost.
Ed Bommer


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Dennis Storzek
 

The problem is the plasticizer that keeps the bubble wrap pliable is migrating out. This is similar to the fog that used to develop in new automobile windows as the plasticizer migrated out of the vinyl dash board. The automakers solved that problem, but it's still a problem with cheap made-in-China bubble wrap, but who can tell where any of this stuff comes from these days.   

I recently unpacked a Chicom battery radio someone had given me a few years ago; same problem. 99% isopropyl alcohol, which I use at work, took it off with some wiping, but will also remove some paints and pad printing inks, so be careful. I would try a wash in warm water and dish soap, if that doesn't work, try wiping with 70% drugstore isopropyl alcohol, and if that doesn't work, the higher concentration alcohol. If it strips the paint, you've a good start on repainting.

Dennis Storzek 


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Edward
 

Its best to use acid free tissue paper as the first wrapper for a model, before using bubble wrap or sheet foam for cushioning.
Well worth its additional cost.
Ed Bommer


Re: Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

Robert kirkham
 

I think the thread was on the passenger car list.  It came up once; a few weeks or months later I returned to it after finding some damaged cars.  My only strategy so far is to sit the cars in the air, and hope the bubble wrap elixir evaporates or something.  If that doesn’t work, the cars will need to be weathered or repainted to hide the checkerboard pattern dots of damage.

 

Rob Kirkham

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Brian Termunde via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2019 8:06 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Paint Damage from Bubble Wrap

 

Good day;
I seem to recall a fairly recent thread about paint damage to steam era freight cars caused by bubble wrap. I did try to do a search for "Bubblewrap", "Bubble Wrap" and "Damage" But didn't find what I was looking for.

Does anyone recall this thread (It might have been on another group, but I was sure it was here), or have any suggestions as how to remove the residue?

I received a car that I purchased on fleabay, and it had been wrapped up in bubble wrap with the bubbles facing car, now I have large blotches (especially in N Scale!) all over the car. I tried washing it in soap and water to no avail.

Thanks in advance!

Take Care,

 

Brian R. Termunde

Midvale, Utah

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