Tim,

Peter is using dry transfers, not decals 😉   In my experience, dry transfers work equally well over both gloss or flat.

Regards,

Bruce Smith

After potting around with this for a few weeks, I finally got a good result.   I tried several ways of pressing aluminum foil on the outside of the door, but nothing would get the detail to show properly.   An attempt at using strip styrene was more trouble than it was worth.  In addition, I realized that the kit door had latch detail molded in which would show on the inside.  I ended up making a simple casting.   I used a similar door out of my stash and carved off the latches, etc.   I attached the door to a sheet of plastic and poured Elmer's School Glue over the door.   I poked around in it to remove the bubbles and let it dry overnight.   The next day the glue was mostly dry and peeled off easily.  I ACC's it to the kit door, trimmed the excess and painted it Floquil Old Silver.   A little rust powder, and the door was done.   

A few other notes:  The wood interior walls had to be trimmed a bit to clear the kit roof.   I chose not to use the wood floor from the interior kit because it added a layer to the car that I though looked wrong--I painted the plastic kit floor instead.    I built bulkheads at each end of the car and filled the space with BBs for weight--a normal interior weight would add to the floor height and again I didn't want that.   I have left the car unweathered and the roof unattached until I decide what the load should be and get it built and installed (a car carrying bags of flour will have different weathering than a car carrying boxes of  merchandise).  In any case, the kit went together well and I am happy with the result.  

Attachments:

• IMG_2733.jpg

_._,_._,_

On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 07:43 AM, peteraue wrote:

My dry transfer sheets are a few years old. What am I doing wrong?

Dry transfers eventually go bad. They are sticky ink printed on wax paper; pressing them against another surface causes the ink to stick to the surface better than it sticks to the wax, and it transfers. With age the ink drys out and becomes hard and less sticky and it will no longer transfer. I haven't tried this, but for small transfers like chalk marks, you might try gently warming the spot on the sheet over an incandescent light bulb and see if it transfers better warm.

Dennis Storzek

After potting around with this for a few weeks, I finally got a good result.   I tried several ways of pressing aluminum foil on the outside of the door, but nothing would get the detail to show properly.   An attempt at using strip styrene was more trouble than it was worth.  In addition, I realized that the kit door had latch detail molded in which would show on the inside.  I ended up making a simple casting.   I used a similar door out of my stash and carved off the latches, etc.   I attached the door to a sheet of plastic and poured Elmer's School Glue over the door.   I poked around in it to remove the bubbles and let it dry overnight.   The next day the glue was mostly dry and peeled off easily.  I ACC's it to the kit door, trimmed the excess and painted it Floquil Old Silver.   A little rust powder, and the door was done.   

A few other notes:  The wood interior walls had to be trimmed a bit to clear the kit roof.   I chose not to use the wood floor from the interior kit because it added a layer to the car that I though looked wrong--I painted the plastic kit floor instead.    I built bulkheads at each end of the car and filled the space with BBs for weight--a normal interior weight would add to the floor height and again I didn't want that.   I have left the car unweathered and the roof unattached until I decide what the load should be and get it built and installed (a car carrying bags of flour will have different weathering than a car carrying boxes of  merchandise).  In any case, the kit went together well and I am happy with the result.  

Attachments:

• IMG_2733.jpg

I am looking for guidance because I'd much rather use dry transfer chalk marks than decals. Though my car sides have a fresh flat Dullcote finish I cannot get my Clover House chalk marks to stick to?? the surface. Besides various hardness pencils, I've tried every suitable device in my arsenal with absolutely no luck. Sometimes, a part of the chalk mark sticks but then the other part doesn't come off the carrier paper. Is there a degradation of the adhesive with age? My dry transfer sheets are a few years old. What am I doing wrong?

Peter Aue

Sounds like a possible cottage industry printing white decals – provide the artwork file and the entrepreneur prints and returns the decals for a reasonable fee. This looks like a great way to print white reweigh and repack dates and locations, road number options, return to stencils, loading instructions, MOW decals, and many other decals not otherwise available. Any interest out there?



Nelson Moyer



From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Jon Miller
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 9:18 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Super Clean Degreaser to remove lettering



On 5/26/2019 6:49 AM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

I’ve heard about ghost white toner

I also read up on the various white toners. What I read was a dedicated machine. However when I saw the price I quickly dropped the subject!:-D

--

Jon Miller

For me time stopped in 1941

Digitrax Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User

SPROG User

NMRA Life member #2623

Member SFRH&MS

I’ve heard about ghost white toner

    I also read up on the various white toners.  What I read was a dedicated machine.  However when I saw the price I quickly dropped the subject!:-D

-- 

Jon Miller

For me time stopped in 1941

Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User

SPROG User

NMRA Life member #2623

Member SFRH&MS

Friends,

A safety data sheet  on Super Clean Degreaser can be found at https://www.superclean.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/2016-SuperClean-Degreaser-SDS-v2.0.pdf . The product is corrosive to metals, and thus also to skin. Gloves and face/eye protection are recommended. I would use this stuff on the patio to allow quick vapor dispersal. (I do this with acetone/lacquer/nail polish remover which I use in making arrows).

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff

Nelson,

I went to the Dollar Store today and picked up a bottle of this stuff.  Poured a small amount into a cup leftover from Nyquil.  Dipped a cotton swab in the solution to wet the tip without drenching it. Applied the damp tip to the number on a Kadee boxcar (one of the new Southern ones I got yesterday).  Less than two minutes of scrubbing showed the numbering was coming off.  Within five minutes the number was gone.  The paint color could be seen on the swab, so it would remove the paint if you aren't careful.  I used the dry end of the cotton swab to wipe the area clean after the numeral was off.  I'm going to let it dry.  I probably should have washed it with water to ensure no further loosening of the paint.  But with the minimal amount of cleaner on the swab it seemed to evaporate fairly quickly.

It is much harder to remove the numeral on the end, but only because the size is so small and the contours of the end make it difficult to rub a swab.  I'll experiment with a toothpick and/or a microbrush later, once the sides are dried and sealed.

So Super Clean degreaser works on Accurail and Kadee lettering!  And at $1 for a 20 oz. bottle, I have a lifetime supply.  Nice!

I'll use my Ghost White Toner to print the new numerals.  The Kadee car apparently only came in one number so far.  I ordered two cars, hoping for two numbers.  This thread was timed well!   The car is a '48 build, so this will be for the FCSME 1955 era layout instead of my '34 era home layout. The car was well done and even though I have a ton of '55 era cars these were too good to pass up for this "y'all road" modeler.   Maybe I'll use the degreaser to remove the packing year and replace that for '53 or so.  

Thanks Nelson!

Dave Bott

Nelson,

I went to the Dollar Store today and picked up a bottle of this stuff.  Poured a small amount into a cup leftover from Nyquil.  Dipped a cotton swab in the solution to wet the tip without drenching it. Applied the damp tip to the number on a Kadee boxcar (one of the new Southern ones I got yesterday).  Less than two minutes of scrubbing showed the numbering was coming off.  Within five minutes the number was gone.  The paint color could be seen on the swab, so it would remove the paint if you aren't careful.  I used the dry end of the cotton swab to wipe the area clean after the numeral was off.  I'm going to let it dry.  I probably should have washed it with water to ensure no further loosening of the paint.  But with the minimal amount of cleaner on the swab it seemed to evaporate fairly quickly.

It is much harder to remove the numeral on the end, but only because the size is so small and the contours of the end make it difficult to rub a swab.  I'll experiment with a toothpick and/or a microbrush later, once the sides are dried and sealed.

So Super Clean degreaser works on Accurail and Kadee lettering!  And at $1 for a 20 oz. bottle, I have a lifetime supply.  Nice!

I'll use my Ghost White Toner to print the new numerals.  The Kadee car apparently only came in one number so far.  I ordered two cars, hoping for two numbers.  This thread was timed well!   The car is a '48 build, so this will be for the FCSME 1955 era layout instead of my '34 era home layout. The car was well done and even though I have a ton of '55 era cars these were too good to pass up for this "y'all road" modeler.   Maybe I'll use the degreaser to remove the packing year and replace that for '53 or so.  

Thanks Nelson!

Dave Bott

Friday, May 24, 2019, 1:57:18 AM, you wrote:

Super Clean degreaser will lift lettering from Accurail cars in less than two hours without affecting the paint – unless you soak cars for a week and scrub hard with a toothbrush. I haven’t tried to selectively remove lettering or used it on Walthers cars.
 
Nelson Moyer


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--
David Bott

Sent from David Bott's desktop PC 
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____________________________
David Bott, modeling the A&Y in '34