Date   

Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Dennis Storzek
 

On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 03:59 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:
I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.
Actually, since you've already primed the styrene with something that should bond to it, I would just use drywall taping compound. The bond between taping compound and styrene would be questionable, but taping compound sticks tenaciously to painted surfaces, so should be OK>

Dennis Storzek


Re: Photo: Reading Hopper 73228 (1952)

William Dale
 

A class HTj, USRA, a HTh, and an HTO class of two bay hoppers


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Ed Mims
 

My choice is Bondo--one part (red) in a tube. Does a great job and last for years in the tube.

Ed Mims


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Scott H. Haycock
 

 

 

On 05/17/2021 11:56 PM Robert kirkham <rdkirkham@...> wrote:
 
 
You’re right to question it - I hadn’t appreciated the size of the gap your are dealing with.
 
It sounds to me like a "Drywall Repair " approach may provide a simpler solution. Some spray adhesive, A roll of 'fast freddie'- 
 
 
and a bag of 'Quick Mud'-
 
 
The spray adhesive gives the tape some extra hold to the splice plate. The tape hold the joint compound in place.
 
It may take a few applications of the mud- sanding between coats- but primed, and painted, This should work.
 
Scott Haycock
 
 
  
 
 


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Robert kirkham
 

You’re right to question it - I hadn’t appreciated the size of the gap your are dealing with.   

Another approach to consider: add laminations of thin sheet styrene into the 2” trough to fill much of it, and use filler at the edges to blend.  This minimizes the amount of material you are smoothing.   You could use styrene filler or spot putty to finish that.  Be careful the material is well supported as the pressure of smoothing the filler can distort the styrene sheet - causing a dished effect.

Maybe also give a look at Aves “Fix it” epoxy clay and similar products in their range.   It has the advantage of being very smoothable to a very feathered edge.  You can do it with a bit of tap water, saliva or (best) their proprietary solvent on your gloved fingers.  Initially after mixing, it would be too fluid to stay put on a vertical surface unless you use very thin layers.  But that is how I would go about it.  It is stiff and not really moving after 2 hours.  You can add further layers every 4 hours or so (read the directions).   After you have built it up and it has dried roughly 24-30 hours, it is cured and is really good to work with - sandpaper or scrapers etc - and finishes like the styrene sheet.  Holds to sheet styrene better than any glue I’ve used.  It was the final answer to my ship hull as it was stronger than styrene sheet and easy to form.  

Rob  


On May 17, 2021, at 5:41 PM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

Are you kidding! I have to fill two shallow 2 in. wide troughs on either side of the splice plate for a total linear length of 96 in.
 
Nelson Moyer
 
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Robert kirkham
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 7:14 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model
 
You could throw a bunch of scrap styrene into a jar of solvent cement and create a styrene putty.  It takes a while to harden, but once hard, sands just like the sheet styrene.  I’ve used it in all sorts of applications - very stable.  
 
Rob
 
On May 17, 2021, at 3:59 PM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:
 
I used Tamiya putty on the butt joint crack, and it sanded smooth without any evidence of opening up after four years of expansion and contraction. Ambient temp in the basement ranges from 60° in winter to 76° in summer, and the backdrop is two 4x8 sheets of 0.08 in. styrene plus another 83 in. long piece of styrene. The backdrop is coved vertically at the top, covering the shelf brackets and attached to the ends of the brackets. I calculated the thermal expansion for 23 ft. of styrene at about ¼ in. at my temperature extremes. The backdrop creaks with short term temperature changes due to the fluorescent lights and also during seasonal changes.
 
I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.
 
Nelson Moyer
 
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 5:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model
 
I'm not sure JB Weld is what Nelson wants to use on a vertical joint on the backdrop, in my experience it tends to run or slump. I would go with one of the two part polyester auto body fillers; Bondo is one name but there are others. Two part fillers have minimal shrinkage, whereas the single component "spot putty" will shrink as the solvent evaporates.  The two part fillers may be a bit tough to sand when used on styrene, since they are as hard or harder. In which case, use the two part filler to fill the depression, and the knife a thin coat of the spot putty (also known as glazing putty) over the top and sand that smooth.

Dennis Storzek 
 
 



Re: Hygrade ~1600 series

Douglas Harding
 

Actually the tankcars are marked Jacob E Decker JEDX 50-73, leased from North American Car Co.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Schuyler Larrabee via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 10:54 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Interesting tank car off to the left, also marked “Hygrade.”

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Douglas Harding
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 11:45 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

I do have one photo of a HyGrade reefer, circa 1929. The attached photo is of the loading area of the Decker meat plant in Mason City, from a Decker Brochure. The reefer with the prominent “Decker” on the side is actually a Mather Reefer leased to HyGrade, the reporting marks are partially visible on the end of the car. The late Richard Hendrickson made the identification.

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Douglas Harding via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 10:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

This is what I have on HyGrade the company. I do not have anything on their reefers, and all my reference material is packed for an upcoming move.

 

Hygrade Food Products dates back to the 1800s. To Central Hanover Bank & Trust in 1929

 

The Storm Lake IA plant was opened in 1935 by Kingan & Co of Indianapolis and Nash Brothers. Kingan bought out Nash Brothers in 1937. Kingan was purchased by HyGrade in 1952.

 

In April 1982, IBP bought the old Storm Lake plant from Hygrade for $2.5 million. The Storm Lake workers were not welcomed back. Hundreds applied for positions at the new plant, but fewer than thirty were hired. Wages averaged $7 per hour, or $14,600 per year – less than half the average salary of the old workers. IBP imported a largely immigrant work force to man the plant.

 

 

Hygrade purchased Carstens Packing Co of Tacoma WA in 1952 and closed the plant in 1990. Carstens was the largest independent meat packer on the west coast.

 

 

HyGrade purchased Kingan of Indianapolis in 1954

 

HyGrade acquired F Schenk & Sons of Wheeling OH

 

Hygrade sold to Sara Lee in 1989

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve SANDIFER
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 8:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: Hygrade ~1600 series

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Interesting tank car off to the left, also marked “Hygrade.”

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Douglas Harding
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 11:45 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

I do have one photo of a HyGrade reefer, circa 1929. The attached photo is of the loading area of the Decker meat plant in Mason City, from a Decker Brochure. The reefer with the prominent “Decker” on the side is actually a Mather Reefer leased to HyGrade, the reporting marks are partially visible on the end of the car. The late Richard Hendrickson made the identification.

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Douglas Harding via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 10:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

This is what I have on HyGrade the company. I do not have anything on their reefers, and all my reference material is packed for an upcoming move.

 

Hygrade Food Products dates back to the 1800s. To Central Hanover Bank & Trust in 1929

 

The Storm Lake IA plant was opened in 1935 by Kingan & Co of Indianapolis and Nash Brothers. Kingan bought out Nash Brothers in 1937. Kingan was purchased by HyGrade in 1952.

 

In April 1982, IBP bought the old Storm Lake plant from Hygrade for $2.5 million. The Storm Lake workers were not welcomed back. Hundreds applied for positions at the new plant, but fewer than thirty were hired. Wages averaged $7 per hour, or $14,600 per year – less than half the average salary of the old workers. IBP imported a largely immigrant work force to man the plant.

 

 

Hygrade purchased Carstens Packing Co of Tacoma WA in 1952 and closed the plant in 1990. Carstens was the largest independent meat packer on the west coast.

 

 

HyGrade purchased Kingan of Indianapolis in 1954

 

HyGrade acquired F Schenk & Sons of Wheeling OH

 

Hygrade sold to Sara Lee in 1989

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve SANDIFER
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 8:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: Hygrade ~1600 series

Douglas Harding
 

I do have one photo of a HyGrade reefer, circa 1929. The attached photo is of the loading area of the Decker meat plant in Mason City, from a Decker Brochure. The reefer with the prominent “Decker” on the side is actually a Mather Reefer leased to HyGrade, the reporting marks are partially visible on the end of the car. The late Richard Hendrickson made the identification.

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Douglas Harding via groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 10:23 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

This is what I have on HyGrade the company. I do not have anything on their reefers, and all my reference material is packed for an upcoming move.

 

Hygrade Food Products dates back to the 1800s. To Central Hanover Bank & Trust in 1929

 

The Storm Lake IA plant was opened in 1935 by Kingan & Co of Indianapolis and Nash Brothers. Kingan bought out Nash Brothers in 1937. Kingan was purchased by HyGrade in 1952.

 

In April 1982, IBP bought the old Storm Lake plant from Hygrade for $2.5 million. The Storm Lake workers were not welcomed back. Hundreds applied for positions at the new plant, but fewer than thirty were hired. Wages averaged $7 per hour, or $14,600 per year – less than half the average salary of the old workers. IBP imported a largely immigrant work force to man the plant.

 

 

Hygrade purchased Carstens Packing Co of Tacoma WA in 1952 and closed the plant in 1990. Carstens was the largest independent meat packer on the west coast.

 

 

HyGrade purchased Kingan of Indianapolis in 1954

 

HyGrade acquired F Schenk & Sons of Wheeling OH

 

Hygrade sold to Sara Lee in 1989

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve SANDIFER
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 8:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: Hygrade ~1600 series

Douglas Harding
 

This is what I have on HyGrade the company. I do not have anything on their reefers, and all my reference material is packed for an upcoming move.

 

Hygrade Food Products dates back to the 1800s. To Central Hanover Bank & Trust in 1929

 

The Storm Lake IA plant was opened in 1935 by Kingan & Co of Indianapolis and Nash Brothers. Kingan bought out Nash Brothers in 1937. Kingan was purchased by HyGrade in 1952.

 

In April 1982, IBP bought the old Storm Lake plant from Hygrade for $2.5 million. The Storm Lake workers were not welcomed back. Hundreds applied for positions at the new plant, but fewer than thirty were hired. Wages averaged $7 per hour, or $14,600 per year – less than half the average salary of the old workers. IBP imported a largely immigrant work force to man the plant.

 

 

Hygrade purchased Carstens Packing Co of Tacoma WA in 1952 and closed the plant in 1990. Carstens was the largest independent meat packer on the west coast.

 

 

HyGrade purchased Kingan of Indianapolis in 1954

 

HyGrade acquired F Schenk & Sons of Wheeling OH

 

Hygrade sold to Sara Lee in 1989

 

Doug Harding

www.iowacentralrr.org

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve SANDIFER
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 8:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: Hygrade ~1600 series

Richard Townsend
 

I should have added that in the Jan. 43 ORER there were three other classes of HFPX reefers: 700-710, 7 cars; 712-741, 29 cars; and 831-881, 12 cars.

Many years ago MR had an article about developing a numbering system for locomotives. The title was something like "Developing a loco numbering system." On seeing this, my wife asked why anyone would want to have a crazy numbering system. Too bad we can't ask Hygrade about its loco numbering system.

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Townsend via groups.io <richtownsend@...>
To: steve.sandifer@... <steve.sandifer@...>; main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, May 17, 2021 7:57 pm
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

From my ORERs:

Jan. 38 HFPX 1400-1499 40 cars. These were 37' cars.
             HFPX 1600-1699 20 cars. These were 41' cars, with 4' doors, 12'9" to top of running board
             Listed under Mather Stock Car Co.

Jan. 43 HFPX 1400-1499 24 cars
             HFPX 1600-1699 5 cars
             Listed under Mather Stock Car Co.

Oct. 52 No reefers
             HYTX tank cars. 4 cars

July 52 Nothing for Hygrade

Jan. 58 Many classes of Hygrade reefers under KGNX reporting marks. No 1600s. These were Kingan reporting marks earlier, though Kingan is not called out in this ORER. Makes me speculate that Hygrade took over Kingan. A little research shows Hygrade took over Kingan in 1952.
             Listed under General American

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve SANDIFER <steve.sandifer@...>
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Sent: Mon, May 17, 2021 6:40 pm
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.
 
 
J. Stephen Sandifer
 
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series
 
Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: Hygrade ~1600 series

Richard Townsend
 

From my ORERs:

Jan. 38 HFPX 1400-1499 40 cars. These were 37' cars.
             HFPX 1600-1699 20 cars. These were 41' cars, with 4' doors, 12'9" to top of running board
             Listed under Mather Stock Car Co.

Jan. 43 HFPX 1400-1499 24 cars
             HFPX 1600-1699 5 cars
             Listed under Mather Stock Car Co.

Oct. 52 No reefers
             HYTX tank cars. 4 cars

July 52 Nothing for Hygrade

Jan. 58 Many classes of Hygrade reefers under KGNX reporting marks. No 1600s. These were Kingan reporting marks earlier, though Kingan is not called out in this ORER. Makes me speculate that Hygrade took over Kingan. A little research shows Hygrade took over Kingan in 1952.
             Listed under General American

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve SANDIFER <steve.sandifer@...>
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Sent: Mon, May 17, 2021 6:40 pm
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.
 
 
J. Stephen Sandifer
 
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series
 
Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: Hygrade ~1600 series

Steve SANDIFER
 

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.

 

 

J. Stephen Sandifer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of nyc3001 .
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:08 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Hygrade ~1600 series

 

Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Nelson Moyer
 

Are you kidding! I have to fill two shallow 2 in. wide troughs on either side of the splice plate for a total linear length of 96 in.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Robert kirkham
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 7:14 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

You could throw a bunch of scrap styrene into a jar of solvent cement and create a styrene putty.  It takes a while to harden, but once hard, sands just like the sheet styrene.  I’ve used it in all sorts of applications - very stable.  

 

Rob

 

On May 17, 2021, at 3:59 PM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

 

I used Tamiya putty on the butt joint crack, and it sanded smooth without any evidence of opening up after four years of expansion and contraction. Ambient temp in the basement ranges from 60° in winter to 76° in summer, and the backdrop is two 4x8 sheets of 0.08 in. styrene plus another 83 in. long piece of styrene. The backdrop is coved vertically at the top, covering the shelf brackets and attached to the ends of the brackets. I calculated the thermal expansion for 23 ft. of styrene at about ¼ in. at my temperature extremes. The backdrop creaks with short term temperature changes due to the fluorescent lights and also during seasonal changes.

 

I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 5:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

I'm not sure JB Weld is what Nelson wants to use on a vertical joint on the backdrop, in my experience it tends to run or slump. I would go with one of the two part polyester auto body fillers; Bondo is one name but there are others. Two part fillers have minimal shrinkage, whereas the single component "spot putty" will shrink as the solvent evaporates.  The two part fillers may be a bit tough to sand when used on styrene, since they are as hard or harder. In which case, use the two part filler to fill the depression, and the knife a thin coat of the spot putty (also known as glazing putty) over the top and sand that smooth.

Dennis Storzek 

 

 


Re: C&O 21920 twin hopper

Eric Hansmann
 

Here’s a recent blog post covering the end posts and other alterations. 


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On May 17, 2021, at 7:05 PM, Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;) <claus@...> wrote:

Hi Eric and List Members,
 
As soon as you said this, I immediately looked at all the differences between the Bowser GLa and this C&O hopper. Yet after taking a minute to consider your words, I can now easily see how this kitbash would work, and work well. There are far more similarities than there are differences.
 
Thanks for pointing this out.
 
Claus Schlund
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] C&O 21920 twin hopper

After downloading and adjusting image levels in Photoshop, a 1925 weigh date stencil is visible.

 

The centered end posts and brake platform, and the different grab/handhold ladders on the corners make this an interesting prototype. I just modified a couple Bowser GLa hoppers to mimic the centered end posts. It was pretty easy.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2021 6:51 PM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] C&O 21920 twin hopper

 

Hi List Members,

 

C&O 21920 twin hopper

 

The web site thinks the date to be "ca. 1930-1940", but I think I see a 1925 date on the side of the car.

 

 

Enjoy!

 

Claus Schlund

 


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi List Members,
 
Thanks everyone for the very useful replies.
 
I went with Fenton Wells' suggestion and made a trip out to Walmart - bought some BONDO GLAZING & SPOT PUTTY. It cost all of $3.54 before tax - wow!
 
I put it on the model, and it went on very smoothly. My usual technique for applying putty is to take a wooden matchstick, and carve the end into a micro-spatula shape - I then use this to apply the putty to the model. This technique worked well with the BONDO.
 
I'll let everything fully cure overnight, then tomorrow will use chisel blades and a sanding stick to get it to where it needs to be.
 
Claus Schlund
 


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Robert kirkham
 

You could throw a bunch of scrap styrene into a jar of solvent cement and create a styrene putty.  It takes a while to harden, but once hard, sands just like the sheet styrene.  I’ve used it in all sorts of applications - very stable.  

Rob

On May 17, 2021, at 3:59 PM, Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@...> wrote:

I used Tamiya putty on the butt joint crack, and it sanded smooth without any evidence of opening up after four years of expansion and contraction. Ambient temp in the basement ranges from 60° in winter to 76° in summer, and the backdrop is two 4x8 sheets of 0.08 in. styrene plus another 83 in. long piece of styrene. The backdrop is coved vertically at the top, covering the shelf brackets and attached to the ends of the brackets. I calculated the thermal expansion for 23 ft. of styrene at about ¼ in. at my temperature extremes. The backdrop creaks with short term temperature changes due to the fluorescent lights and also during seasonal changes.
 
I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.
 
Nelson Moyer
 
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 5:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model
 
I'm not sure JB Weld is what Nelson wants to use on a vertical joint on the backdrop, in my experience it tends to run or slump. I would go with one of the two part polyester auto body fillers; Bondo is one name but there are others. Two part fillers have minimal shrinkage, whereas the single component "spot putty" will shrink as the solvent evaporates.  The two part fillers may be a bit tough to sand when used on styrene, since they are as hard or harder. In which case, use the two part filler to fill the depression, and the knife a thin coat of the spot putty (also known as glazing putty) over the top and sand that smooth.

Dennis Storzek 
 


Re: C&O 21920 twin hopper

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 

Hi Eric and List Members,
 
As soon as you said this, I immediately looked at all the differences between the Bowser GLa and this C&O hopper. Yet after taking a minute to consider your words, I can now easily see how this kitbash would work, and work well. There are far more similarities than there are differences.
 
Thanks for pointing this out.
 
Claus Schlund
 
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] C&O 21920 twin hopper

After downloading and adjusting image levels in Photoshop, a 1925 weigh date stencil is visible.

 

The centered end posts and brake platform, and the different grab/handhold ladders on the corners make this an interesting prototype. I just modified a couple Bowser GLa hoppers to mimic the centered end posts. It was pretty easy.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2021 6:51 PM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] C&O 21920 twin hopper

 

Hi List Members,

 

C&O 21920 twin hopper

 

The web site thinks the date to be "ca. 1930-1940", but I think I see a 1925 date on the side of the car.

 

 

Enjoy!

 

Claus Schlund

 


Re: C&O 33503 - a steel hopper bottom gon - with coal load (undated)

Schuyler Larrabee
 

This photo’s appeared before and generally had been presumed to be a promotional shot.


Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Rossiter
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 7:10 AM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] C&O 33503 - a steel hopper bottom gon - with coal load (undated)

 

There just might be enough room in that car for another lump or two of coal.  I suspect if you were to build a model that looked like this you would receive a few raised eyebrows with the accompanying scoffs and scorns.

 

Mark Rossiter

 

 


Re: putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

Nelson Moyer
 

I used Tamiya putty on the butt joint crack, and it sanded smooth without any evidence of opening up after four years of expansion and contraction. Ambient temp in the basement ranges from 60° in winter to 76° in summer, and the backdrop is two 4x8 sheets of 0.08 in. styrene plus another 83 in. long piece of styrene. The backdrop is coved vertically at the top, covering the shelf brackets and attached to the ends of the brackets. I calculated the thermal expansion for 23 ft. of styrene at about ¼ in. at my temperature extremes. The backdrop creaks with short term temperature changes due to the fluorescent lights and also during seasonal changes.

 

I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dennis Storzek
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 5:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

I'm not sure JB Weld is what Nelson wants to use on a vertical joint on the backdrop, in my experience it tends to run or slump. I would go with one of the two part polyester auto body fillers; Bondo is one name but there are others. Two part fillers have minimal shrinkage, whereas the single component "spot putty" will shrink as the solvent evaporates.  The two part fillers may be a bit tough to sand when used on styrene, since they are as hard or harder. In which case, use the two part filler to fill the depression, and the knife a thin coat of the spot putty (also known as glazing putty) over the top and sand that smooth.

Dennis Storzek

 


Re: Journal Oil Modeling - was "Resemble Grease"

Matt Goodman
 

An interesting story I heard from a railroader was regarding the “brake smoke” that was generated when descending a long grade. I assumed this was some mix of ballast dust and brake shoe dust. The railroader said it was burning oil - all that oily gunk on the wheel faces would cook off as the wheels got hot - followed by the gunk spalling off the wheel face. The latter explains the flaking look I’ve seen in person and in photos. 

He said it smelled terrible.

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio, US

On May 16, 2021, at 8:35 AM, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


It's not the OIL so much as the dirt that sticks to the oil. In many photos from more arid
areas of the United States, the wheel faces were often a tan or reddish color from sand and
fine local dirt colors. I have observed up close almost an inch of crud accumulated on the
face of a wheel. If all of your wheel faces are the same color it's no different than all of your
cars having the same weathering.

Tim O'Connor


On 5/15/2021 11:07 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:
There's an exception to most definitive statements, and I ran across this one while looking at MDT reefers. The wheel faces appear black to a very dark bluish gray, more like a oily black. I concede that they may not be true black, but they're more black than gray.

Attachments:



--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

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