Date   
Re: Prototype Rails

Richard Hendrickson
 

Tony Thompson wrote, regarding his Pennsy freight car clinic:

Bill, the clinic is perfectly serious in trying to identify the various
"signature" Pennsy cars that a modeler needs to include on a non-Pennsy
layout, and how to model them (today we have kits for practically all we
need, in HO anyway). I put together the talk after researching the topic
for my OWN layout.
Haven't heard from Richard about his doing the talk...<grin>
Right. And you won't hear from me in the future, either. Aside from other
considerations, I have yet to be convinced that one can, in fact, address
the subject of PRR freight cars without suffering brain damage (or that
Thompson has, in fact, done so).

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520

Re: Wabash gon 13500-14849 series

Richard Hendrickson
 

John Nehrich inquired:

In the Jan. '90 RMJ, there was a photo story on a c. 1953 freight train,
which included a Wabash 10 panel gon. Any information on how it was made
(kitbashed from the MDC gon?) and the prototype? - John
That was (is) my model, John, and it was, as you inferred, kitbashed from
an MDC gondola model by replacing the ends (as best I can recall, I used
sections of Dreadnaught ends from a cannibalized Athearn box car) reworking
the underframe, and fitting free standing wire grabs, steps, etc. It was
based on a Howard Ameling photo which I'm attaching as a JPEG.

----------

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520

Rock Island / Wabash 2-Bay Hoppers

golden1014
 

Brothers,

I'm in need of some information on Rock Island and Wabash 2-bay hoppers. Can you guys help out?

First, I know RI had offset cars but I need help finding good photos of the cars ca. 1950. Did they have ribbed cars (like/close to the Accurail model)? I'm also wondering about Wabash cars; I know they had ribbed cars but did they have offset cars as well? Thanks in advance for the help, guys!

Yours,

John Golden



Checked out our PhotoPoint.com web site yet? Over 700 railroad pictures, documents, models and more have been uploaded since November. Here's the link: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1187026&f=0



---------------------------------
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Re: Prototype Rails

billd@...
 

Richard,

While I would tend to agree with you about the ChinaKits, I
just checked out the eBay listing of the Storzek Soo Line
boxcar kit. Somebody out there is willing to spend $31.00
(at last check) for an unbuilt kit (makes me wish I had
bought more of these...I managed to glom onto one a few
years ago). But, then it might be a "collector" who wouldn't
know to assemble an Athearn kit :-P

I just checked it out again...somebody else now has bid it
up to 33 bucks and change. And those decals are grungy!

Bill Daniels
Tucson, AZ

Re: Prototype Rails

billd@...
 

Richard,

I really think there is no danger...

and now, if you will excuse me, the nice men in their white
coats are going to take me away for a nice rest...far, far
away from the maddening crowd (chanting a mantra that sounds
suspiciously like DGLE! DGLE! IT'S DGLE! NOT BRUNSWICK
GREEN!!!)

Hoo, Hoo...

Haa, Haa...

Hee, Hee...

They're coming to take me away agian!!!



Bill Daniels
Tucson AZ...


which is a very, very long way away from Altoona!!!!

On Thu, 17 May 2001 20:27:08 -0700
Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:

Right. And you won't hear from me in the future, either.
Aside from other
considerations, I have yet to be convinced that one can,
in fact, address
the subject of PRR freight cars without suffering brain
damage (or that
Thompson has, in fact, done so).

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520



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Re: Storzek kits on Ebay

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

I just checked it out again...somebody else now has bid it
up to 33 bucks and change. And those decals are grungy!
Bill, it looks like the cat threw up on the decals...

However, having built one of those beautiful Soo Line grain
boxes, I can say no layout is complete without one!

Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Marlborough, Massachusetts

Re: Wabash gon 13500-14849 series

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

That was (is) my model, John, and it was, as you inferred, kitbashed from
an MDC gondola model by replacing the ends (as best I can recall, I used
sections of Dreadnaught ends from a cannibalized Athearn box car) reworking
the underframe, and fitting free standing wire grabs, steps, etc. It was
based on a Howard Ameling photo which I'm attaching as a JPEG.
Richard, would you mind posting that JPEG to the STMFC web site, or sending
it to someone who can. (Hint hint)


Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Marlborough, Massachusetts

Re: Prototype Rails

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

Richard Hendrickson prognosticates (in public no less)

<< Soon the North American market will be like the continental
European market: no rolling stock kits at all, just high quality
(and costly) RTR models. >>
I don't see Intermountain or Branchline or Red Caboose or Athearn
going that way entirely -- as long as the kits are made in the U.S.,
I think we will still be able to get them. But Walthers and Atlas
have gone completely in that direction. I don't know what Proto2000
will do, but I hope we can continue to buy kits from them.

Kadee PS-1's come undecorated, as they are assembled entirely without
glue, so it's very easy to turn one into a kit in about 60 seconds.


Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Marlborough, Massachusetts

Re: Prototype Rails

Richard Hendrickson
 

Bill Daniels wrote:

While I would tend to agree with you about the ChinaKits, I
just checked out the eBay listing of the Storzek Soo Line
boxcar kit. Somebody out there is willing to spend $31.00
(at last check) for an unbuilt kit (makes me wish I had
bought more of these...I managed to glom onto one a few
years ago). But, then it might be a "collector" who wouldn't
know to assemble an Athearn kit :-P

I just checked it out again...somebody else now has bid it
up to 33 bucks and change. And those decals are grungy!
Bill, I'll bet the price goes much higher than that. There's no accounting
for collectormania. I was talking with Al Hoffman on the phone today and
he reported that a second hand unbuilt Ambroid vinegar car kit recently
went for $70 at his local hobby shop. The kit collectors have no intention
of building the kits they buy; they just want to own things that are so
rare, no one else has them. Go figure.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520

Re: Storzek kits on Ebay

billd@...
 

Yeah...

As Alfred E. Neuman would say, Ecccch!

At least mine are still in good condition (at least the last
time I looked at them they were :-)

I guess I'm just going to have to build mine up. I actually
like the car...and I wish that Des Plaines would consider a
re-release of the kit. (I don't know if they actually did it
once, but I know that they did get the kits from Dennis)

Anybody out there have any experience with straightening out
warped resin sides (these are the grey resin). I seem to
remember reading somewhere that all they need is to be
heated up in an oven and they would straighten out (or at
least melt back...)

Bill Daniels

Re: Storzek kits on Ebay

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

Anybody out there have any experience with straightening out
warped resin sides (these are the grey resin). I seem to
remember reading somewhere that all they need is to be
heated up in an oven and they would straighten out (or at
least melt back...)
Das 'bout all they is to it.

Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Marlborough, Massachusetts

Re: Prototype Rails

billd@...
 

Gee, Richard...

Why buck the trend? Now I know what to do with all those old
technologically obsolete kits I know down deep inside I will
never build...

I just might even sell off that Westrail Bx-34 (which is NOT
technologically obsolete, although I would probably
substitute an IM or RC boxcar for the Athearn one in the
kit) I got from you some time ago (AFTER I copy the
instructions that show how to build the Duryea
underframe...which is the biggest and best part of that
particular kit!!!)

If some brain-dead collector wants to part with big bucks, I
can easliy duplicate the kit, make some cash, and we both
will be happy!

At least it can help pay for the latest batch of "golden
plastic" :-) (wanna bet that a bunch of them will be still
sitting in my closet when I am old and grey...or at least
when I am older and greyer than I am now!!!)

Hmmm.....

Bill Daniels, who is watching how far up that particular kit
makes it...

On Thu, 17 May 2001 22:14:38 -0700
Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:
Bill Daniels wrote:

While I would tend to agree with you about the
ChinaKits, I
just checked out the eBay listing of the Storzek Soo
Line
boxcar kit. Somebody out there is willing to spend
$31.00
(at last check) for an unbuilt kit (makes me wish I had
bought more of these...I managed to glom onto one a few
years ago). But, then it might be a "collector" who
wouldn't
know to assemble an Athearn kit :-P

I just checked it out again...somebody else now has bid
it
up to 33 bucks and change. And those decals are grungy!
Bill, I'll bet the price goes much higher than that.
There's no accounting
for collectormania. I was talking with Al Hoffman on the
phone today and
he reported that a second hand unbuilt Ambroid vinegar
car kit recently
went for $70 at his local hobby shop. The kit collectors
have no intention
of building the kits they buy; they just want to own
things that are so
rare, no one else has them. Go figure.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520



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Re: Prototype Rails

Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
 

If some brain-dead collector wants to part with big bucks, I
can easliy duplicate the kit, make some cash, and we both
will be happy!
No, no! The secret to making money off collectors is to sell
your kits as NEVER OPENED / NEVER UNWRAPPED. This means the
kit is absolutely pristine, and to open it would decimate its
value. Fill the box with Athearn parts wrapped in tissue paper
and then seal it closed with wax.

I have seen brass models sold at shows this way. You may ask,
how does one know there is a model in the box at all? Ah, but
that is the allure of the thing... the mystery of it.

If someone catches you, just refund their money and tell them
you never knew it was a sham -- how could you, without having
X-Rays made of the contents?

Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Marlborough, Massachusetts

Re: Wabash gon 13500-14849 series

John Nehrich <nehrij@...>
 

Richard - The photo wasn't attached to my e-mail, either. It must have
shaken loose coming all the way from California. (Damn cyber-glue!) - John

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim O'Connor" <timoconnor@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 12:41 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Wabash gon 13500-14849 series



That was (is) my model, John, and it was, as you inferred, kitbashed from
an MDC gondola model by replacing the ends (as best I can recall, I used
sections of Dreadnaught ends from a cannibalized Athearn box car)
reworking
the underframe, and fitting free standing wire grabs, steps, etc. It was
based on a Howard Ameling photo which I'm attaching as a JPEG.
Richard, would you mind posting that JPEG to the STMFC web site, or
sending
it to someone who can. (Hint hint)


Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Marlborough, Massachusetts


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Re: Wabash gon 13500-14849 series

Richard Hendrickson
 

Richard - The photo wasn't attached to my e-mail, either. It must have
shaken loose coming all the way from California. (Damn cyber-glue!) - John
Sorry, John. Let's try this again.

----------

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520

Storzek kits and all that

tgmadden <tgmadden@...>
 

Three different people have bid on that kit, and only one of the three has a
high enough feedback rating to be considered a knowledgeable bidder. The
current leading bidder (who has placed three of the five bids) has a
feedback rating of one. That means he's brand new to ebay, and new bidders
tend to behave irrationally.

Bill Daniels wrote:
I guess I'm just going to have to build mine up. I actually
like the car...and I wish that Des Plaines would consider a
re-release of the kit. (I don't know if they actually did it
once, but I know that they did get the kits from Dennis)

Ron Sebastian bought Dennis' masters, and still owns them. I do some custom
casting for Ron from time to time, and he's mentioned that he did cast some
of the kits himself early on. A couple of years ago he and I talked very
casually about re-introducing the line, possibly with one-piece car bodies,
but nothing has come of it. In the meantime Ron has tooled the SOO Line
caboose in styrene, and seems more inclined to go that route for future Des
Plaines projects. Rumors occasionally surface about doing another run of the
Storzek SOO box car in resin, but I suspect if anything is going to happen
it will be through the SOO Line historical society.

Anybody out there have any experience with straightening out
warped resin sides (these are the grey resin). I seem to
remember reading somewhere that all they need is to be
heated up in an oven and they would straighten out (or at
least melt back...)

They don't melt. That's a property of thermoplastic materials, like styrene,
which harden as they cool. Thermosetting materials, like urethane resin,
cure (harden) by chemical reaction and/or the application of heat.Tim gave a
correct answer, but there are other considerations. First, the casting
should be of uniform thickness. This can be a problem, particularly with
older kits. I won't bore everyone with a treatise on how to cast flat parts,
but it's not uncommon to have cast car sides that are thicker in the middle
than at the edges, and vice-versa. If you "flatten" such parts, that is make
the back side flat, the front surface will be bulged in the first case and
cupped in the latter. Second, if one car side needs flattening but the other
doesn't, but the lengths match, go ahead and flatten them both. When you
heat a urethane casting you're actually raising it to a higher cure state.
Additional cross-linking takes place, the molecular bonds strengthen and
tighten, all of which causes additional shrinkage. Third, the Smooth-On
resin Dennis used had wonderful processing properties, but poor thermal
properties. The heat deflection temperature was only 110 degrees F, if cured
at room temperature. This can be raised somewhat, to around 140 degrees, by
post-curing the parts at 180 degrees for 12 hours. As noted previously, this
will introduce additional shrinkage. Alumilite (the infamous "tan"
castings), for all the bad reputation it's gotten because people don't know
how to use it properly, has a heat deflection temperature of 155 degrees
without post-curing.

Tom M.

Re: Wabash gon 13500-14849 series

tgmadden <tgmadden@...>
 

Richard - The photo wasn't attached to my e-mail, either. It must have
shaken loose coming all the way from California. (Damn cyber-glue!) -
John


The list is configured to remove attachments from submissions before
distributing them to subscribers. Alternatives are to upload to the <Files>
section of the list on Yahoo!Groups, or put it on a web page and post the
URL, like I did with that Bruins photo of the NYC box cars, tank cars and
Pullmans.

Tom M.

Re: Prototype Rails

Richard Hendrickson
 

If some brain-dead collector wants to part with big bucks, I
can easliy duplicate the kit, make some cash, and we both
will be happy!
No, no! The secret to making money off collectors is to sell
your kits as NEVER OPENED / NEVER UNWRAPPED. This means the
kit is absolutely pristine, and to open it would decimate its
value. Fill the box with Athearn parts wrapped in tissue paper
and then seal it closed with wax.

I have seen brass models sold at shows this way. You may ask,
how does one know there is a model in the box at all? Ah, but
that is the allure of the thing... the mystery of it.

If someone catches you, just refund their money and tell them
you never knew it was a sham -- how could you, without having
X-Rays made of the contents?
Tim may think he's exaggerating a bit here. Some years ago, however, a
collector who discovered some pre-war Lionel depots still in their original
sealed cartons proceeded to sell them at astronomical prices, assuring his
customers they were the genuine article by providing x-rays.

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520

Re: Prototype Rails

billd@...
 

I once knew a guy who having access to "official" Lionel
tape, wanted to weight an empty box with bricks, seal it
with the tape, and sell it as an unopened Trainmaster (red
top, whatever that is).

The damnest thing is that it probably would work...

I later found out that his dad had gotten caught doing the
same thing when he owned a music store in Toronto...

Oops...

Some people never learn.

Bill Daniels

On Fri, 18 May 2001 10:06:33 -0400
"Tim O'Connor" <timoconnor@...> wrote:

If some brain-dead collector wants to part with big
bucks, I
can easliy duplicate the kit, make some cash, and we
both
will be happy!
No, no! The secret to making money off collectors is to
sell
your kits as NEVER OPENED / NEVER UNWRAPPED. This means
the
kit is absolutely pristine, and to open it would decimate
its
value. Fill the box with Athearn parts wrapped in tissue
paper
and then seal it closed with wax.

I have seen brass models sold at shows this way. You may
ask,
how does one know there is a model in the box at all? Ah,
but
that is the allure of the thing... the mystery of it.

If someone catches you, just refund their money and tell
them
you never knew it was a sham -- how could you, without
having
X-Rays made of the contents?

Timothy O'Connor <timoconnor@...>
Marlborough, Massachusetts


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Re: Wabash gon 13500-14849 series

Garth G. Groff <ggg9y@...>
 

Richard,

I think you have forgotten that you can't send attachments with a Yahoo
group message. It has to be posted to their binaries file, or sent as
direct e-mail to your correspondent. This is done to prevent sending
viruses.

Kind regards,


Garth G. Groff


Richard Hendrickson wrote:


Richard - The photo wasn't attached to my e-mail, either. It must have
shaken loose coming all the way from California. (Damn cyber-glue!) - John
Sorry, John. Let's try this again.

----------

Richard H. Hendrickson
Ashland, Oregon 97520



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