Date   
Re: Square brake staffs

radiodial868
 

I checked my large supply of LEDs. Would work for a flat car. The longest leads are still waaay too short for a boxcar.
I also had bought some of that .024 Nickel Silver beading wire wrap awhile back, but it scaled out to 2.5" across the flats, but more importantly when I installed in place with a brake wheel and mechanism, it looked very out of scale and toylike.  I may have picture of it still, will look.
RJ Dial

TICHEY GLAT AND PROTOTYPE PHOTO

WILLIAM PARDIE
 



On Nov 13, 2019, at 9:14 AM, Eric Hansmann <eric@...> wrote:

Bill,

Check this link for the June 1993 RMJ. Some of the magazines on the original Trainlife site can be accessed.
http://original.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/148/10699/june-1993-page-5


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN



-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Lugg
Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 11:18 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Looking for car colors and road numbers

Since I was stuck in moderator limbo for several days, I discovered a previous thread on these cars and specifically a message from Eric Hansmann compiling some very helpful prototype info from the June 1993 Rail Model Journal article about the flat cars (unfortunately, the link http://magazine.trainlife.com/rmj_1993_6/ seems to result in a database access error now).  So I'm abandoning the plan stated below and selecting some from the list in the aforementioned message.


I do have a couple of questions though.  Several list "Mineral Red paint" would a close match be box car red or is a different color of red called for?  Are there any photos of the SP&S, T&P, DL&W, Cotton Belt and CP cars to use for lettering guides? Is there a chance anyone out there happens to have a copy of the linked article I could get a scan of for reference?  It would really help in building these and I've been unsuccessful in finding any from other sources.


Thanks for the help.
Bill Lugg


On 11/1/19 9:30 PM, William Lugg wrote:
I'm working on a six pack of HO scale Tichy 50 ton, 40 foot flat cars
and have decided to letter them for six different roads.  I model the
UP in the 1950-1953 time frame so I'm thinking of using UP, SP, WP,
D&RGW, AT&SF and C&NW as my road choices. My question is are there
online resources that will tell me what color to pain the car and what
number series would be valid for each road in this time frame?  I've
done some searching on Google, but have come up dry so far.  Photos
would be even better if they're out there.

Thanks
Bill Lugg







Re: Looking for car colors and road numbers

Bill Lugg
 

Do you happen to know the number for the Speedwitch decal set.  I'm not seeing it on their web site.

Thanks
Bill Lugg

On 11/13/19 3:36 PM, Kemal Mumcu via Groups.Io wrote:
I built one of these as a NC&StL. Speedwitch Media offers beautiful (accurate) decals for these cars. Decals matter in my opinion.

Colin Meikle

Re: Looking for car colors and road numbers

Bill Lugg
 

Yes, the provided link worked, thanks, Eric.  I'll read it before proceeding further.

Bill Lugg

On 11/13/19 2:40 PM, radiodial868 wrote:
You definitely want to read the RMJ article before proceeding. Use that last link from Eric. If still doesn't work i can send a PDF. I built 3 that required little modification (SP&S, NC&StL, SSW). Turned out to be really nice cars, Used the Tichy decal set. Will post a picture tonight.
RJ Dial
Burlingame, CA

Re: How's Tichy doing currently, decal thickness and all?

Jake Schaible
 

Totally agree with Ken, that Tichy decals make for great PFE medallions.  But to my eyes, the white on the SP logo is a wee bit thin, and I'd kill for a correct UP "System" Logo (something never been done yet in N scale waterslide.)

PFE Logos: Tichy vs Microscale in N.

Tichy PFE datablock in N.

Microscale PFE Datablock in N.

While for lager text, the inkjet (depending on color) do "pile" paint more (to get saturation), they seem to actually produce better small text, given silk screens are not able to reliably hold small text and often suffer element lose.  

 

>James SANDIFER "Titchy decals are extremely thick. There is no way I have found to blend them into a car."

You might want to give this method a try.  Not mine, but comes from an acclaimed N scale modelers who happens to work at Microtrains, and he offered this when a similar comment about thick ink jet decals was made back in 2017 on the same TRW thread I referenced above.  His "Solvaset plus hairdryer" method has word for me even in N scale, but is take a lot of time and is a PITA.    

 

"Archer textured decals are made by the same sort of printer using the same inks as Tichy.  One of the issues you have is the thickness of the white inks to gain the kind of opacity you need.  Until we can get a machine that can do thermal printing like our trusty Alps over irregular surfaces this is the process we have to work with.  I think you will also find you'll have difficulty getting these over ribs and other surface details.  The ink doesn't soften with traditional decal solvent solutions easily so you have to really work on getting them to set. I have used Solvaset and a hair dryer to good effect."

Re: Looking for car colors and road numbers

Tim O'Connor
 


I beg to differ Bill - the prototype hand brake had a square cross section rod. :-D


On 11/13/2019 4:41 PM, Bill Welch wrote:
On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 02:23 PM, Tim O'Connor wrote:
The Tichy flat car is nearly correct as is for

   ACL, CG, CN, FEC, GN, L&N, NC&StL, SAL, SP&S, SSW, and T&P

Champ produced an excellent decal set for the kit HC-646


NOT - UP, SP, WP, D&RGW, AT&SF or C&NW


Not nearly correct, exactly correct for NC&StL

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

Swift and California Fruit Transportation Company

Richard Townsend
 

A 1906 Railway Gazette article I read says Swift & Co. bought the California Fruit Transportation Company, which had gotten into financial trouble after tangling with a big fruit shipper in California. Does anyone have any information on this company and its cars. At one point it owned over 600 reefers.

I also read that Swift owned three refrigerator car lines. I assume the Swift Refrigerator Transportation Company was one of the three, and perhaps the California Fruit Transportation Company was another. Does anyone have any information on any other reefer line owned by Swift?

Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR

Re: Looking for car colors and road numbers

Kemal Mumcu
 

I built one of these as a NC&StL. Speedwitch Media offers beautiful (accurate) decals for these cars. Decals matter in my opinion.

Colin Meikle

Re: Boxcar With Roof Hatches

Lester Breuer
 

Regarding MINX 1040, I forgot the ORER, January 1953, 25 cars in service in the series 1001 to  1040  and 1040 not listed among vacant numbers so still in service.

Lester Breuer

Re: Boxcar With Roof Hatches

Lester Breuer
 

Garth regarding  MINX 1040 wood boxcar with hatches, straight steel center sills, here is what I have.

Based on reporting marks requesting empty return to Corona, California, car 1040 was used to deliver roofing granules manufactured at that plant.

Equipment register: the earliest ORER entry Richard Hendrickson could find was June, 1938.

Mike Nolan article in Minnagazette, Fall 2002
ORER July 1950 shows 49 boxcars all with roof hatches, really small pipes with caps.

ORER January 1965 shows 12 of these MINX cars still in use.  Since car 1040 is not listed among them it must have been retired by this time.

There is no evidence of who built  the cars.  Best guess is cars purchased second hand.

Lester Breuer

Re: Looking for car colors and road numbers

Bill Welch
 

On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 02:23 PM, Tim O'Connor wrote:
The Tichy flat car is nearly correct as is for

   ACL, CG, CN, FEC, GN, L&N, NC&StL, SAL, SP&S, SSW, and T&P

Champ produced an excellent decal set for the kit
HC-646


NOT - UP, SP, WP, D&RGW, AT&SF or C&NW


Not nearly correct, exactly correct for NC&StL
Bill Welch
 
 

Re: Looking for car colors and road numbers

radiodial868
 

You definitely want to read the RMJ article before proceeding. Use that last link from Eric. If still doesn't work i can send a PDF.  I built 3 that required little modification (SP&S, NC&StL, SSW). Turned out to be really nice cars, Used the Tichy decal set. Will post a picture tonight.
RJ Dial
Burlingame, CA

Re: Earlier runs often better than late runs

Dennis Storzek
 

On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 10:27 AM, Garth Groff and Sally Sanford wrote:
Several of Accurail's earlier cars are a close match for Front Range models.  Were these cars recut with new dies by Accurail, or is the old aluminum still holding up?
 
Garth,

They are the original Front Range cavity inserts. 7075 Aluminum holds up well, so long as it is treated gently. Used where it won't close on parts, or drools, or flash stuck to the mold parting line, it holds up well. Not so much if there are sliding shut-offs or other mechanicals involved. There are, of course, five IIRC sets of sides that share a common roof and ends. The roof and ends weren't doing so well, so we mated the sides with steel ends we already had, and built new roofs, also steel. We have built a few things out of aluminum; the 40' plug door RBL and the 40' combo door boxcar sides are aluminum that run with steel ends and roofs. We made the judgement that neither was going to be a high mileage tool. Those taught us that we really weren't saving much, since I'd rather EDM small details in rather than dink around with tiny milling cutters, and if the work is going to be EDM'd, it might as well be steel. Back in the nineties it seemed there was a savings being able to put the rivets in with a .010" diameter ball nose end mill, but the introduction of affordable diamond coated miniature end mills has made cutting electrodes to do the rivets cost competitive, and I haven't done anything in aluminum in years.

Dennis Storzek

Re: SP&S USRA DS Boxcar Photos

spsalso
 

Bill,

I don't understand your question.


Ed

Edward Sutorik

Re: Looking for car colors and road numbers

Tim O'Connor
 


The Tichy flat car is nearly correct as is for

   ACL, CG, CN, FEC, GN, L&N, NC&StL, SAL, SP&S, SSW, and T&P

Champ produced an excellent decal set for the kit
HC-646


NOT - UP, SP, WP, D&RGW, AT&SF or C&NW



On 11/1/2019 11:30 PM, Bill Lugg wrote:
I'm working on a six pack of HO scale Tichy 50 ton, 40 foot flat cars and have decided to letter them for six different roads.  I model the UP in the 1950-1953 time frame so I'm thinking of using UP, SP, WP, D&RGW, AT&SF and C&NW as my road choices. My question is are there online resources that will tell me what color to pain the car and what number series would be valid for each road in this time frame?  I've done some searching on Google, but have come up dry so far.  Photos would be even better if they're out there.

Thanks
Bill Lugg

--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

Re: Looking for car colors and road numbers

Eric Hansmann
 

Bill,

Check this link for the June 1993 RMJ. Some of the magazines on the original Trainlife site can be accessed.
http://original.trainlife.com/magazines/pages/148/10699/june-1993-page-5


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

-----Original Message-----
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bill Lugg
Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 11:18 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Looking for car colors and road numbers

Since I was stuck in moderator limbo for several days, I discovered a previous thread on these cars and specifically a message from Eric Hansmann compiling some very helpful prototype info from the June 1993 Rail Model Journal article about the flat cars (unfortunately, the link http://magazine.trainlife.com/rmj_1993_6/ seems to result in a database access error now). So I'm abandoning the plan stated below and selecting some from the list in the aforementioned message.


I do have a couple of questions though. Several list "Mineral Red paint" would a close match be box car red or is a different color of red called for? Are there any photos of the SP&S, T&P, DL&W, Cotton Belt and CP cars to use for lettering guides? Is there a chance anyone out there happens to have a copy of the linked article I could get a scan of for reference? It would really help in building these and I've been unsuccessful in finding any from other sources.


Thanks for the help.
Bill Lugg


On 11/1/19 9:30 PM, William Lugg wrote:
I'm working on a six pack of HO scale Tichy 50 ton, 40 foot flat cars
and have decided to letter them for six different roads. I model the
UP in the 1950-1953 time frame so I'm thinking of using UP, SP, WP,
D&RGW, AT&SF and C&NW as my road choices. My question is are there
online resources that will tell me what color to pain the car and what
number series would be valid for each road in this time frame? I've
done some searching on Google, but have come up dry so far. Photos
would be even better if they're out there.

Thanks
Bill Lugg

Re: Boxcar With Roof Hatches

Tony Thompson
 

Garth Groff wrote:

Add WP to your list. By 1940 some of their double-sheathed boxcars from series 16001-18500 were renumbered to series 26001-26125 and were assigned to bulk plaster service out of Gerlach, Nevada. 

     Garth, I thought it was the single-sheathed cars, originally  numbered 15001-16000, that were renumbered into the 26000 series and some of them given roof hatches. The 16001-18500 cars were double sheathed, were they not?

Tony Thompson



Re: Square brake staffs

Sam Reynolds
 

I checked the Micheals and Hobby Lobby websites, and they both carry Beadalon square German style artistic wire. Michaels carries 20 and 22 gauge silver plated, copper/brass core wire. Hobby Lobby carries the 20 gauge wire. Per the Beadalon website (http://www.beadalon.com/) the 20 gauge wire measures 0.032 inch and the 22 gauge wire measures 0.025 inch. I checked the Beadalon website for the line of artistic wire they produce, and their 24 gauge square wire measures 0.020 inch. A package of 10 meters of their square, 24 gauge Stainless Steel Wrapping Wire cost $7.49. They also list packages of 4 meter lengths of their square, 24 gauge German style wire in antique brass, tarnish resistant brass, and silver plated for $7.49. I'd be interested in hearing from others on the list whether the 24 gauge wire is still too big for making the square brake shafts, especially given the length of square wire that would be used.

Sam Reynolds

Re: Earlier runs often better than late runs

Garth Groff and Sally Sanford
 

On 11 November Dennis Storzek wrote, in part:

"Aluminium is a favorite for CNC machining of cavities because it cuts easy and doesn't break small cutters. The old Front Range line was completely aluminum tooling. It is slightly harder than brass and more easily repaired by welding."

Curious. Several of Accurail's earlier cars are a close match for Front Range models.  Were these cars recut with new dies by Accurail, or is the old aluminum still holding up?

Yours Aye,

Garth Groff

Re: ERDX Reefers

Bud Rindfleisch
 

I have this photo of an ERDX 11000 series car. The lettering follows the MDT font. I have seen these cars with the circular sunburst (?) logo too. The 10000 series were of lower height but I don't have the specific data. Clover House makes dry transfers for the 10000 series.
     Bud Rindfleisch