Date   
Re: Susquehanna 40’ boxcars c1940-48

John Sykes III
 

In January 1948 NYS&W had 49 - 36' IL boxcars.  The number series they were in was 1500 to 1563, so they probably had 64 or more cars originally.  My understanding was that Erie bought over 1,000 of these Canadian style boxcars and lettered some as NYS&W, which they had controlling interest in at the time.  Also in the January 1948 ORER there are none, 0, zip, nadda, 40 ft boxcars on the Suzy Q roster.  Interestingly 951 of the Erie cars (93000-93999) are listed as IL = 35'10" ???  Were these different cars or 36' IL cars modified in some way?  The true 36' IL cars are in two separate number groups in 1948 (60000-60005 and 86010-88016).  The Accurail car is numbered 87134 - i.e., out of the second group.  Their NYS&W 36' car is numbered 1567.  I guess that January 1948 ORER I bought came in handy after all.

-- John

Re: Susquehanna 40’ boxcars c1940-48

John Sykes III
 

As a follow-up, I model c-1955 so I have a detailed NYS&W freight roster for that time period (1954-1958) with notes.  The notes indicate that Suzy Q originally had 500 Fowler box cars listed as manufactured by Fowler Car Co. of Canada (could be a mistake).  I have notes on the other boxcars that I thought you might find interesting, so I have uploaded the roster to the files here.

-- John

Re: Susquehanna 40’ boxcars c1940-48

John Sykes III
 

Groups IO won't let me upload this file to the files section so lets try it this way.

-- John

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

Schuyler Larrabee
 

I agree with Bob.  That’s a job for professionals, or at least, professional advice.

 

I presume, Fenton, that the photo depicts a steam era freight car, at least?

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Bob Miller
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2019 5:55 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Removing mold from a railroad print

 

Check with an art museum or art dealer and ask about folks who clean and conserve old paintings,etc.

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...>
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2019 4:37:09 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Removing mold from a railroad print

 

This is kinda off topic but I have a railroad print that I forgot I had and after 6 or 7 moves I found it in a tube and it has some light brown mold on it.  Does anoyoone know how to remove the mold without hurting the print.
I hope the jail cell is warm and the food is good
Fenton Wells

Re: 3/4 improved dreadnaught endo for a 10'-0" IH boxcar

pennsylvania1954
 

Fenton--Also the Branchline Rib/3/4 end can be modified. Sand or file the rib off flush then trim to the correct height. For me, the BL end looks better with its rounded contours. The ribs of the IM end resemble gear teeth.
--
Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL

Re: Susquehanna 40’ boxcars c1940-48

Schleigh Mike
 

Hello John and FC Group!

The ERIE's 93000 series of nominal 36' inside length XM boxcars are of no relationship to the older 'Fowler' ERIE cars.  The former were built in 1920-21 by Standard Steel Car.  The Fowlers 1913-14 by both SSC and AC&F.  None of the 93000 were a part of the NYS&W fleet.

Mike Schleigh in Grove City, Penna.

On Monday, August 26, 2019, 9:02:05 PM EDT, John Sykes III via Groups.Io <johnsykesiii@...> wrote:


In January 1948 NYS&W had 49 - 36' IL boxcars.  The number series they were in was 1500 to 1563, so they probably had 64 or more cars originally.  My understanding was that Erie bought over 1,000 of these Canadian style boxcars and lettered some as NYS&W, which they had controlling interest in at the time.  Also in the January 1948 ORER there are none, 0, zip, nadda, 40 ft boxcars on the Suzy Q roster.  Interestingly 951 of the Erie cars (93000-93999) are listed as IL = 35'10" ???  Were these different cars or 36' IL cars modified in some way?  The true 36' IL cars are in two separate number groups in 1948 (60000-60005 and 86010-88016).  The Accurail car is numbered 87134 - i.e., out of the second group.  Their NYS&W 36' car is numbered 1567.  I guess that January 1948 ORER I bought came in handy after all.

-- John

MARPM room share

Eric Hansmann
 

I’ve made reservations to attend the upcoming Mid-Atlantic RPM (MARPM). Anyone care to split a room? Please use the REPLY to SENDER link at the bottom of the message to contact me off list. Or copy and paste this into your email browser and replace the words and spaces accordingly for an off list reply.

 

eric at hansmanns dot org

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

Michael Gross
 

The American Institute for Conservation https://www.culturalheritage.org may be able to help you find a paper conservator in your area.  Naturally, there is some cost involved, and you will have to weigh the cost of conservation with the value of the print itself.  I.e., is it "worth saving?"

Many conservators have sub specialties:  works on canvas, works on paper, etc.

Good luck!

Michael Gross
Pasadena, CA

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

Jon Miller
 

On 8/26/2019 2:55 PM, Bob Miller wrote:
Check with an art museum or art dealer and ask about folks who clean and conserve old paintings,etc.

    If it costs too much you might try a Q tip and water or soap and water.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS

Re: MEK Substitute and current plastic cements

ed_mines
 

My last employer sold solvent borne coatings.The most popular solvent was a mixture of toluene and MEK.
Toluene (pronounced toolean by navy men) is an industrial narcotic - it gets you high. It is also a terratogen meaning it causes damage to unborn fetuses.

There was some country in Europe (Italy?) which blamed toluene for some deaths.

MEK may be hard to find but you can get it from auto body painters.

Acetone was available in hardware stores but it evaporates very quickly.

Duco cement uses acetone as solvent; it is very fast to evaporate. I've learned to use it in place of Ambroid cement which is no longer available.

I've bought very low viscosity ACC cement from China on ebay. It's used to attach artificial finger nails. I deliver it using miniature plastic pipets about 1-1/2 long.

I put little dabs of these 2 adhesives on waxed paper.

One last comment  on the Duco. Acetone isn't such a good solvent for the polymer. As a result the somewhat thick (viscous) Duco contains a lot of solvent and not that much polymer (plastic/adhesive). A big blob shrinks down to a small piece of plastic.

I've found that Duco is a very good adhesive even though not much of it actually ends up on the part being glued so I don't see any extra glue by the joint being glued.

I put a blob of Duco on wax paper, run one part to be glued through it , quickly wipe off the excess and hold the 2 parts in place. Makes nice joints and is very quick to dry.






Re: MEK Substitute and current plastic cements

al_brown03
 

MEK and acetone are chemically very similar (both are ketones), but MEK has a higher boiling point. That gives you more working time: handy in warm weather. 

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

Tim O'Connor
 

I like Jon's idea

Real photo paper is pretty water resistant. I would add a tiny drop of
ammonia to the Q tip + water to kill the bacteria. but i'd test it first.



On 8/27/2019 1:11 PM, Jon Miller wrote:
On 8/26/2019 2:55 PM, Bob Miller wrote:
Check with an art museum or art dealer and ask about folks who clean and conserve old paintings,etc.

    If it costs too much you might try a Q tip and water or soap and water.

-- 
Jon Miller


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

O Fenton Wells
 

Looks like I was wrong and it is not mildew but an acid from the tube that it was stored in.  It's brown.  The freezer and drying it didn't budge it.  NOt sure it's worth going too much farther.
Anyone know a good source for Howard Fogg railroad prints?
Fenton

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 3:24 PM Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
I like Jon's idea

Real photo paper is pretty water resistant. I would add a tiny drop of
ammonia to the Q tip + water to kill the bacteria. but i'd test it first.



On 8/27/2019 1:11 PM, Jon Miller wrote:

On 8/26/2019 2:55 PM, Bob Miller wrote:
Check with an art museum or art dealer and ask about folks who clean and conserve old paintings,etc.

    If it costs too much you might try a Q tip and water or soap and water.

-- 
Jon Miller


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

Benjamin Hom
 

Fenton Wells asked:
"Looks like I was wrong and it is not mildew but an acid from the tube that it was stored in.  It's brown.  The freezer and drying it didn't budge it.  Not sure it's worth going too much farther.
Anyone know a good source for Howard Fogg railroad prints?"

Time to step back and answer a few questions:

1. Is this a numbered and signed print?  If it's a low numbered, signed print of a popular subject, it might be worth investigatigating restoration.

2. If it isn't numbered and signed, you might be able to get another copy at a reasonable price.  Check eBay to get an idea of the market - a search on "Howard Fogg" returned 310 hits.


Ben Hom
   

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

spsalso
 

The brown "stain" on a print can also come from inadequate rinsing during processing.  The pattern of the area would likely reveal whether it's that or acid from the tube.

As far as removing mold from prints:

I have been happy with using 99% isopropyl alcohol on FILM.  I soak a micro-fiber cloth in the alcohol, and rub the film well.  Then I rinse using alcohol from a wash bottle.  Let dry.

Because it has worked so well on negatives (and slides), I'd try using it on prints.  But testing carefully, at first--perhaps on a border.


Ed

Edward Sutorik

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

RICH CHAPIN
 

try this link from the Smithsonian

https://siarchives.si.edu/.../collections-care-guidelines-resources/ive-got-mold-my-files

I found it by goggling how do I remove mold from old paper

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Hi Fenton.

 

There is a process called “de-acidification.”  As many of you know, the “Official Guide” book were printed on flimsy paper which was also acid-rich, and as a consequence become extremely fragile.  I have an Official Guide from 1948, when I was born, and was interested in preserving it.  The conservator I consulted told me about this process, which in that case involved inserting a thin deacidifying paper between every two pages – at some significant expense.  As a result, my OG continues to deteriorate.

 

But with a single print, it might not be too terribly expensive. The questions asked about whether it’s a signed original print vs a reproduction are considerations for sure.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of O Fenton Wells
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 3:38 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Removing mold from a railroad print

 

Looks like I was wrong and it is not mildew but an acid from the tube that it was stored in.  It's brown.  The freezer and drying it didn't budge it.  NOt sure it's worth going too much farther.

Anyone know a good source for Howard Fogg railroad prints?

Fenton

 

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 3:24 PM Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

I like Jon's idea

Real photo paper is pretty water resistant. I would add a tiny drop of
ammonia to the Q tip + water to kill the bacteria. but i'd test it first.



On 8/27/2019 1:11 PM, Jon Miller wrote:

On 8/26/2019 2:55 PM, Bob Miller wrote:

Check with an art museum or art dealer and ask about folks who clean and conserve old paintings,etc.

    If it costs too much you might try a Q tip and water or soap and water.

-- 
Jon Miller

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


 

--

Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd

Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...

Re: Removing mold from a railroad print

O Fenton Wells
 

Thanks Schuyler, I'll try to find some.  I tried the alcohol and peroxide on a que tip and nothing.  I'm very disappointed but it is a print and I may try to find a new one.  If available and affordable.  In the mean time I may go try the alcohol again but, this time in a glass over ice.
Fenton
PS if anyone knows a good source of Howard Fogg prints, let me know.


On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 4:10 PM Schuyler Larrabee via Groups.Io <schuyler.larrabee=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Fenton.

 

There is a process called “de-acidification.”  As many of you know, the “Official Guide” book were printed on flimsy paper which was also acid-rich, and as a consequence become extremely fragile.  I have an Official Guide from 1948, when I was born, and was interested in preserving it.  The conservator I consulted told me about this process, which in that case involved inserting a thin deacidifying paper between every two pages – at some significant expense.  As a result, my OG continues to deteriorate.

 

But with a single print, it might not be too terribly expensive. The questions asked about whether it’s a signed original print vs a reproduction are considerations for sure.

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of O Fenton Wells
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 3:38 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Removing mold from a railroad print

 

Looks like I was wrong and it is not mildew but an acid from the tube that it was stored in.  It's brown.  The freezer and drying it didn't budge it.  NOt sure it's worth going too much farther.

Anyone know a good source for Howard Fogg railroad prints?

Fenton

 

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 3:24 PM Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

I like Jon's idea

Real photo paper is pretty water resistant. I would add a tiny drop of
ammonia to the Q tip + water to kill the bacteria. but i'd test it first.



On 8/27/2019 1:11 PM, Jon Miller wrote:

On 8/26/2019 2:55 PM, Bob Miller wrote:

Check with an art museum or art dealer and ask about folks who clean and conserve old paintings,etc.

    If it costs too much you might try a Q tip and water or soap and water.

-- 
Jon Miller

 


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts


 

--

Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd

Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...

Re: MEK Substitute and current plastic cements

Donald B. Valentine
 

Ed Mines wrote:

Duco cement uses acetone as solvent; it is very fast to evaporate. I've learned to use it in place of Ambroid cement which is no longer available.


    What kind of crackpot nonsense is this??? As Tim O'Connor would say, "Google is your friend".  There are dozens of
places on Google from Amazon.com to the Old Town Canoe company selling it of which I'm sure Old Town is the oldest
provider knowing something of the history of the company. Last I knew a fellow in his late 30's or early 40's by now out of Springfield, VT owned it and was occaionally sseen at some model railroad meets.

Cordially, Don Valentine

Re: MEK Substitute and current plastic cements

Tony Thompson
 

Al Brown wrote:

MEK and acetone are chemically very similar (both are ketones . . .

As you can tell from acetone's chemical name: dimethylketone.

Tony Thompson