Date   
decals

Larry Smith
 

I'm building boxcars for the two narrow gauge railroads that the PRR owned.  I'm having difficulty in locating decals with a capy of 60000 lbs.  Most of the decals are for at least 100000 or in the case of the narrow gauge cars 40000.  Help

Larry Smith. 

Re: decals

Eric Hansmann
 

Larry,

 

Is there a numeral 4 you can steal from elsewhere on the sheet? The car weight might be the same size character as the CAPY line.

 

I’ve done this quite a few times to add a proper weigh date before my 1926 focus. I’ve also inverted the number 9 to make a 6.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Larry Smith
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2019 9:30 AM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] decals

 

I'm building boxcars for the two narrow gauge railroads that the PRR owned.  I'm having difficulty in locating decals with a capy of 60000 lbs.  Most of the decals are for at least 100000 or in the case of the narrow gauge cars 40000.  Help

Larry Smith. 

Re: decals

Thomas Evans
 

Larry - You might have to steal some lettering from early (1880's-1890's) standard-gauge sets.
Clover House (dry transfers) & the new k4_pacific decal line on ebay come to mind.
Unfortunately, I don't think either of these has seen fit to make appropriate dimensional data only sheets.

Tom

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Bill Welch
 

Fritz, the ends were cast in resin for me by Dr. Dave Campbell, I suggest looking for his "Yuma Car & Foundry" store on Shapeways for printed version.

Bill Welch

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Jon Miller
 

On 8/28/2019 9:09 AM, Bill Welch wrote:
Yuma Car & Foundry

"Yuma Car & Foundry store" 14K Results.  A few too many to weed through:-D

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS

Re: decals

Joseph
 

On a somewhat related note- I am searching for generic boxcar data to apply to the Central of Minnesota boxcars I spread around to the layouts upon which I operate.  I have used up my extras on the sunshine, weather field and the like sheets. 
Any suggestions?
Thx
Joe Binish
New Hope MN

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:58 AM Thomas Evans via Groups.Io <tomkevans=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Larry - You might have to steal some lettering from early (1880's-1890's) standard-gauge sets.
Clover House (dry transfers) & the new k4_pacific decal line on ebay come to mind.
Unfortunately, I don't think either of these has seen fit to make appropriate dimensional data only sheets.

Tom

Re: decals

Paul Doggett
 

Microscale do quite a few with general data on.
Paul Doggett.  England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 


On 28 Aug 2019, at 17:40, Joseph <Mstl852@...> wrote:

On a somewhat related note- I am searching for generic boxcar data to apply to the Central of Minnesota boxcars I spread around to the layouts upon which I operate.  I have used up my extras on the sunshine, weather field and the like sheets. 
Any suggestions?
Thx
Joe Binish
New Hope MN

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:58 AM Thomas Evans via Groups.Io <tomkevans=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Larry - You might have to steal some lettering from early (1880's-1890's) standard-gauge sets.
Clover House (dry transfers) & the new k4_pacific decal line on ebay come to mind.
Unfortunately, I don't think either of these has seen fit to make appropriate dimensional data only sheets.

Tom

Re: decals

Bruce Smith
 

Larry,

In addition to showing that CAPY of 60,000, make sure that the LD LMT and LT Wt add up to 103,000 ;)

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Benjamin Hom
 

Jon Miller wrote:
"'Yuma Car & Foundry store' 14K Results.  A few too many to weed through."

Be smarter than the app.  Filter your search by "Shops".  This gives you 91 hits, with Yuma Car & Foundry as the top one.


Ben Hom

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

S. Busch
 

 

Here is the Shapeways / Yuma Car & Foundry link listing for the Murphy vertical rib boxcar ends:

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7FNDUCAEB/murphy-vertical-rib-ends-ho?optionId=100570317&li=marketplace

 

I have bought two pair of these for use in building a Pere Marquette 85000 series car,  and I think they are VERY nice, indeed.

 

Regards –

 

Steve Busch

Duncan, SC

 

Re: decals

O Fenton Wells
 

I believe the old Walthers freight car data sheet decals had 60000 printed on them. Not sure the font, size and style will work but I probably have some if you want them
Fenton

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:29 AM Larry Smith <wooddale@...> wrote:
I'm building boxcars for the two narrow gauge railroads that the PRR owned.  I'm having difficulty in locating decals with a capy of 60000 lbs.  Most of the decals are for at least 100000 or in the case of the narrow gauge cars 40000.  Help

Larry Smith. 



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...

Re: decals

Eric Hansmann
 

IIRC, Ld Limit was not a required stencil until 1925-26. The Wt stencil signified light weight but was not presented as Lt Wt until the about same time period.

I’m not certain how the OR&W and W&W rolling stock were stenciled wife weigh data. I need to unearth my books from storage.


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:53 AM, Bruce Smith <@smithbf> wrote:

Larry,

In addition to showing that CAPY of 60,000, make sure that the LD LMT and LT Wt add up to 103,000 ;)

Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Fritz Milhaupt
 

Thanks guys! I've ordered a few sets.

-Fritz Milhaupt
Pere Marquette Historical Society

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Donald B. Valentine
 

    Nice to see those ends become available but I'd be a lot more interested in seeing the
Yuma Car & Foundry Seaboard Airline CLass B-3 boxcar offered in HO that they offer in
TT and S gauge.

Cordially, Don Valentine

Chicagoland RPM and operating session

Ted Schnepf
 

Hello Everyone,

The 26th Chicago RPM is coming up 10/24 through the 26th.  Hard to believe this show has been going for 26 years and started when the term "RPM" was unknown.

I will again host an operating session on Sunday morning, Oct 27 from 9 AM to 1 PM.  No experience necessary.  Advance reservations encouraged at railsunl@....  Come feel the heft of O scale, 2 rail trains.  

During the past year more track has been laid and several new buildings scratch built. The city of Dubuque has seen major changes. Progress continues on many fronts, including adding more freight cars.

So contact me off list for a spot at the op session.

Ted Schnepf
126 Will Scarlet,
Elgin, Ill. 60120


847=697-5353

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Curt Fortenberry
 


FYI just in case, but Great Decals has decals for these cars:

https://www.greatdecals.com/     scroll down to about mid page.

Curt Fortenberry

PS:  I did the artwork and he printed them. 

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Curt Fortenberry
 

Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build: Part Two—Adding Some Details

Bill Welch
 

With the basic superstructure assembled The Boys have started adding details. If you have looked at photos of my various models you will know I am obsessive about Sill Steps: They must be as close to the prototype being modeled as possible. The corner must be square, not rounded (unless it is a Mather stock car or boxcar). If the are angled out on the real thing, they must be angled on the model. On the P&N model they are very similar if not identical to the bottom mounted sill steps used on both types of USRA wood sheathed cars and their aspect ratio is more-or-less square and they are angled out from the side sill. I use .010 x .030 strip styrene to make their attachment flange using a longish piece that gives me a handle making it easier to get them into place. A rivet harvested from an Athearn boxcar serves as an attachment bolt head. To reshape the A-Line brass parts I anneal them in a flame and straighten out flat. Because this is a very common looking step, I have a couple of notches filed in the pliers I use to bend them so the part is placed in the same place when I bend it and they all turn out the same width.

I had already glued “L” shaped pieces of styrene to the Accurail underframes draft gear to make Buffers. After these cured I trimmed each piece to match the width of the draft gear and rounded their corners. To make the triangular ribs I glued four lengths of .010 x .030 strip. Again these are longish pieces that will get trimmed after they have cured. Then I used my close cutting sprue nippers to cut them to shape. The largish bolt heads are the rivets found on the Dreadnaught end of the Athearn boxcar where the two sections of the ends are joined. With everything in place I flooded the surface w/liquid Testors glue to melt the structure so that would appear to be a casting.

For the rivets on the two Gussets Plates and the Batten Strips I did my usual “rivet harvest” from the ancient “Blue Box” Athearn box car. Testors is the perfect glue for this task because it does not flame off immediately so I can put down a dot of glue, pick up a rivet with my spit loaded dulled Testors hobby knife and place it on the tiny dot of glue. Once these have dried, I try to flick them off with my dulled knife. If I fail, I am successful in placing them.

Okay, that's all today from The Boys. . .
Bill Welch

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build: Part Two—Adding Some Details

Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
 


Hi Bill and List Members,
 
Thanks Bill for the write-up. I always learn something new from your posts to the list.
 
Claus Schlund
 
 

----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Welch
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2019 5:25 PM
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build: Part Two—Adding Some Details

With the basic superstructure assembled The Boys have started adding details. If you have looked at photos of my various models you will know I am obsessive about Sill Steps: They must be as close to the prototype being modeled as possible. The corner must be square, not rounded (unless it is a Mather stock car or boxcar). If the are angled out on the real thing, they must be angled on the model. On the P&N model they are very similar if not identical to the bottom mounted sill steps used on both types of USRA wood sheathed cars and their aspect ratio is more-or-less square and they are angled out from the side sill. I use .010 x .030 strip styrene to make their attachment flange using a longish piece that gives me a handle making it easier to get them into place. A rivet harvested from an Athearn boxcar serves as an attachment bolt head. To reshape the A-Line brass parts I anneal them in a flame and straighten out flat. Because this is a very common looking step, I have a couple of notches filed in the pliers I use to bend them so the part is placed in the same place when I bend it and they all turn out the same width.

I had already glued “L” shaped pieces of styrene to the Accurail underframes draft gear to make Buffers. After these cured I trimmed each piece to match the width of the draft gear and rounded their corners. To make the triangular ribs I glued four lengths of .010 x .030 strip. Again these are longish pieces that will get trimmed after they have cured. Then I used my close cutting sprue nippers to cut them to shape. The largish bolt heads are the rivets found on the Dreadnaught end of the Athearn boxcar where the two sections of the ends are joined. With everything in place I flooded the surface w/liquid Testors glue to melt the structure so that would appear to be a casting.

For the rivets on the two Gussets Plates and the Batten Strips I did my usual “rivet harvest” from the ancient “Blue Box” Athearn box car. Testors is the perfect glue for this task because it does not flame off immediately so I can put down a dot of glue, pick up a rivet with my spit loaded dulled Testors hobby knife and place it on the tiny dot of glue. Once these have dried, I try to flick them off with my dulled knife. If I fail, I am successful in placing them.

Okay, that's all today from The Boys. . .
Bill Welch

Re: Piedmont & Northern 1101 Styrene and Resin Build Part One

Donald B. Valentine
 

    Thanks for that photo Curt. I never cease to be amazed of the great freight car photos that turn up on this list.
This one is a real surprise. But look at the end of the next car to the right. I can't believe the reporting marks are
NYC because the first letter is hidden, the second looks more like a "W" but the third certainly is a "C". The
number appears to be #8008 whch again tels me it is not an NYC car. But the end itself is a prize! There are
two sections with five ribs each on the bottom, then a section with only two ribs surmounted by a final section
with five ribs. The car is obviously taller than the P&N car which my July 1959 ORER tells me had a maximum
height if 13 ft. 9 in. for the running board. Guess the brake wheel didn't count! The ORER also tells me that there
were 15 cars of this type still present at that time and lists the ten numbers that were vacant. I presume this
indicates thet there were 25 cars purchased second hand sometime in the late 1940's or very early 1950's as
the road had no boxcars for a period after WW II. Two neat cars but I'd love to know what the other is and would
not be surprised to find it is an auto car.

Cordially, Don Valentine