The bridge-rectifier is necessary if the input is from the track. In the electronic diagram, the top line always has to be positive, and the bottom line always has to be negative. The bridge always en

Trying to locate some accurate, HO scale, Vulcan trucks, as used on the Haskell & Barker, C&WI wood gondola, at the Illinois RR Museum. These were identified by Richard Hendrickson as Vulcan Trucks wi

Dennis, Super great drawing & photo of the Vulcan Trucks. They seem to be very similar to Kadee's version. Thanks, Paul Hillman

Just a quick question about chalks for weathering. What is available for weathering-chalks that don't disappear after a flat-spray, final cover? I use chalks, but, just trying to perfect the methods.

Jim, The idea of using white glue as a binder with dry chalk is a good approach to try. It seems that the "hazing" effect of the colored liquid would flow randomly quite well. The idea of having some

Does the Details West Company have a web-site? I can't find one. Thanks, Paul Hillman

Well,...(R.Reagan),....Google, et al, let me down. Thanks for the URL to Details West. Paul Hillman

I was looking through the InterMountain kits at the local hobby shop and found their HO USRA Composite Gondolas, and just had to get one. The interior detail looks quite excellent. I've always liked g

I'm working on building an F&C HO Stillwell combination car with the original Stillwell trucks. Trying to add brake-rigging and shoes to the trucks. F&C says the wheels are 36", but in my scaling some

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ide

Jack, and all, Bondo "Glazing & Spot Putty" might be a better material. I have some from working on my vehicle paint jobs I'm doing also. I think it has a longer work-time and sticks to about anything

A bit OT, but; Does anyone on the group know of any photos showing the Dearborn Station in Chicago, where the C&WI interlocking tower is shown, and the substructure / support columns of the Roosevelt

How good is the liquid window-glazing that you put in with a "tooth-pick" (more or less) for like, caboose windows? Does it dry thick enough to be strong against breaking and is it pretty smooth, cons

I have an older HO 40ft plastic drop-bottom gondola (AHM maybe) that I want to re-detail and letter for the C&EI. The problem is it developed an upwards hump/warp in the middle. The whole car body war

Ben, Thanks for the "replacement" offer and advice. This model I have is an all steel version. I'm guessing it's an AHM car. How this all started is; ....Athearn is offering a C&EI, 95300-95399 series

Well, I'll be durned!!! I finally found the small manufacturer name in the car's underframe, covered with some paint. It was made by, "Bachmann - Made in Taiwan". In my quick, initial measurements, th

I asked the C&EI for permission to use the page from their Volume 29:1 Flyer and got their following response. "Paul, we have no objections to the use of the Page 29 being placed on the site as long a

I just posted some photos of my progress on an HO, C&WI, Haskell & Barker, wood, side-dump gondola, in the photo-file: Haskell & Barker Wood Side-Dump Gondolas This started as a resin, Funaro & Camerl

Thanks Dennis, Yes, several more scratchbuilt details will be needed, like the cast brackets that go between the I section needle beams and the sills, and the coupler striker-plates, what I guess is c

Dennis, Oh!!! - THOSE kinds of "hopper-details". Yes, I've seen that on other ballast cars, but back in the late 1950's I saw these cars on the C&WI, and drew a dwg. of one, but as I remember they all