I'm working on rebuilding an HO, Atlas, Magor caboose to a C&EI rebuilt type, with the different steps and a few other proper details. The cupola roof handrails were molded on & I removed them to put

I'm building some Intermountain USRA Composite Drop Bottom Gons. Nice kits, but there are no uncoupling cut levers in the kit or reference to them. I've searched for photos of the prototypes but found

Thanks Jack, Couldn't locate any photos or plans. Looks good enough & logical to me. Yes there are some apparent metal straps on the doors & 2 small ones near each end. Paul Hillman

I'm building a model of an Intermountain HO USRA Composite Drop Bottom Gondola and trying to paint-stain the interior floor. Some of the detail must represent metal but I can't find any info on it. Ar

Hello Jack, I've tried that before & still have some, but the windows have come out "wavy" & not flat & perfectly clear like "acetate" does/is. Unless I didn't do it properly enough. Guess I might not

Chuck, I thought of doing something like that but I'd rather have full windows. I think the Santa Fe was actually considered a "short-line" the first day their construction started, but it didn't end

I'm assembling some Walthers Santa Fe 1300 class cabooses (way cars) and find the clear, cupola side-window castings to be rather poor. The back part of the casting stops in the middle of the 2 window

I believe I've seen on this list before talk about making our own decals. I've seen decal paper from Testors, Micro-Mark & others. I have a Kodak "Office Hero 6.1" Ink-Jet printer. What are your sugge

I thought I had seen prototype photos where Youngstown and Superior doors were on the same side, but that was only from "memory". Guess I might have been wrong. Red Caboose put 4 Youngstown in the kit

Well gee !!! Another off-shelf-bogus car. Since it's not accurate for CB&Q I can just put one of each door and remain bogus with it, but don't show it to anyone. All of us probably have inaccurate car

Just acquired a Red Caboose 40ft double door CB&Q boxcar. The kit comes with 2 door types, Youngstown & Superior. Did the CB&Q have any cars with both types on the same side, IE) 1- Youngstown & 1- Su

Thanks Schuyler, ---- So THAT'S what they're from. Strange thing is many other hoppers & other cars show no signs of these markings, at least not in clearly visible areas. Either the other cars were e

Just a question here. Nothing we can do about it except fill them in but, why are there small circular holes or impressions in various plastic castings? They can't be for material-flow in the casting

Saw today for the first time an ad for Bondic Adhesive. Sounds possibly amazing for model work. Stays fluid until set with UV light. Void-filling, sandable, etc. Checked it out a little. Not sure abou

Check with the C&EI Historical Society. They have some decals. http://www.ceihs.org/ Paul Hillman

The May 1959 Model Railroader has an article & pix on (I think) this car. Paul Hillman

My question about the rivets is because Archer's patterns don't fit what I'm trying to build, but MM & MS patterns seem to. Thus, if MM or MS are 3D then I could invest in them. My local hobby shops d

Has it ever been answered if these other co.'s rivets are 3D like Archer, or 2D decals? I've read these many messages but don't recall that being answered. Paul Hillman

Thanks Brian - Paul Hillman

In searching this list's archives it appears that the Bowser PRR H30 Covered Hopper is an accurate model, but what was their paint scheme for 1950? Bowser shows 1935 then 1962 schemes, and later ones.