If you want gloss paint, use Scalecoat II, a superior paint to begin with. That is, if you're working on plastic. If brass, use regular Scalecoat, and follow the directions about thinning and baking.

SC II needs to sit in a >warm< place after it's painted. One friend of mine placed painted cars over his furnace. SGL

A man who knows more than I about Hutchins ends responds to questions about them. Dan's not on this list, but I asked him off-list. SGL

From Mr Martin: One thing I've done which seemed to avoid this was to add, to SC1, a tiny bit of thinner ON TOP of the paint when done. Screw that top on as if your life depended on it. Place carefull

I agree with David. Variety is good. Different ends, if that's the big deal, could be made separately. SGL

Richard: Bob Webber: I think that's a no-brainer. And I bought ribsides. SGL

http://www.ottofrei.com/

So, looking to improve the MILW rib-side cars, I've scraped off the 'shelves' on the left end of the sides, to replace them with some proper grabs. I have some left over from Branchline kits, and some

There's a few shots of these cars on Elwood's Fallen Flags site, but are there some other shots somewhere else on line? In particular, the versions modeled by "Rib Side Cars"? TIA SGL

But there's no photo of it on the IRM website, nor even an acknowledgement that they have it. ??? SGL

Well, a LOT of those are on the Fallen Flags website, too . . . Duplication. SGL

How it works: You have to have masters. You can make a master out of brass and have a rubber mold made from it. This rubber has to be very hard, and the master should, maybe has to be, made with silve

Ooooo! High praise! Thanks, Larry. SGL

Thanks, Kevin. SGL