What type of roofwalk is correct for these cars? And is the red roof correct? I've seen them done with the door red/gray, gray roof, red roof, black roof, but I think the solid red roof and solid red

Since IM is now the packaging and distribution arm of RTR Red Caboose, maybe they can just borrow the roof mold for a run or three..... nah, that would be too easy. Andy

I probably don't have it, just because I would have remembered the article... I thought I had at least the first 10 but I guess not. Andy

don't the NYC? I've never understood why there is so little interest in the NYC in Cincinnati. It was one of 7 original major railroads to serve the city, and in terms of making its presence known, pe

Why was this information omitted? Just to prevent interchange? Not like there's any great expense involved in providing it. Andy

First, I forgot to thank everyone who responded on this topic. I suspected that my problem was more one of practice than technique, as most of you are using the same basic methods I've already used...

NO real need to pay any attention to railfans or model railroaders. But now I think things are very different. The NYC, and the Pennsy too, have been gone since 1968. It is highly unlikely that ANYONE

Ok, this question does have to do with late 1950s freight cars and a little bit to do with beer, so hopefully it's a legit question. My uncle was in the USAF in the 1950s, stationed in Canada someplac

Fascinating, thanks for the responses. It's not something I ever gave much thought to, but it's obviously a necessity. The use of reefers with heaters makes sense, the car is already insulated. As to

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 13:38:21 -0700, Jim Betz wrote Well this just got more interesting. Googling on Carling, it turns out they were and still are a Canadian beer, not American - and presently owned by

On Fri, 01 Apr 2011 16:06:34 -0000, pullmanboss wrote Bet you wish you'd kept the 57 Chevy too! Andy Big Bucks, OH

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 16:40:39 -0400, Tim O'Connor wrote Really? I think a prepainted resin kit would suffer from the handling required to built it. Styrene kits have the same issues to a lesser degree,

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 08:08:51 -0400, Tim O'Connor wrote This is true, even defies explanation. I've never seen resin that clean, and rarely seen styrene that clean. You can drill multiple #80 or #79 ho

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 10:19:18 -0400, Bill Schneider wrote There was a time, not terribly long ago, when I was firmly convinced that plastic RTR models of the caliber of a Tichy or Intermountain car wer

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 08:05:31 -0700 (PDT), Benjamin Hom wrote I guess it depends on how you define effective. I wouldn't even know about the mini-kits (or Sunshine for that matter) if I didn't go to Na

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 17:57:41 -0000, Pieter_Roos wrote Noooo!!! :-) I did speculate on the possibilities, but it's not something I want to see resources devoted to. Andy

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 10:33:06 -0700 (PDT), Ray Breyer wrote The 64K$ question here is, do people who don't care about accuracy care enough to buy a resin car with cast on details when they can buy a fa

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 15:12:46 -0400, Tim O'Connor wrote The Yardmaster cars are durable, but they have something else going for them that makes them popular. They're cheap. Half the price of a Blueprin

I know you built an N&W H2a to run on Sherman Hill, but are you sure that it wasn't supposed to be an H10? There are not that many freight cars that are not available, that I need a lot of. That's one

multi-dome wine car would do well for all the same reasons pickle cars do well, and still be useful for the prototype-oriented among us.) Southern Car & Foundry has a 2-dome kit. Unless multi means mo