The dark grey brittle epoxy resin hasn't been used by Westerfield in many many years. The flat kits went to the softer, flexible, lighter grey urethane resin years ago Craig Zeni Cary NC

I use the Cypox products and its bottle seems to seal extremely well. What I have I've been for over 18 months and it has not thickened or gone off at all. Not refrigerated or anything special....just

My experience has been hit and miss with Tru Color. I've had issues with it adhering to clean styrene/ABS shells. It certainly won't adhere to Scalecoat 2 paint where I used it to match the decals I h

When my friend Brian Banna had sets done, I believe that the minimum run was 250 sets... Craig Zeni Cary NC

Other groups are reporting that file/photo uploading to Yaheck is borked today... Craig Zeni Sent from my soup can with the string pulled really tight.

Not to say that it didn't happen (never say never etc) but I've not seen any evidence of, or read reports of that happening on the O&W...and I do model O&W. Craig Zeni Cary NC

There were two types of FT B units; the 'regular' and by far the most common is what came as the drawbarred A/B sets (we won't discuss the ATSF units and their couplers which were the same length as t

I have a couple of sets of the late Stan Rydarowicz's Linde tank car decals I'd like to have reprinted. - Does anybody know who Stan used for his decals? - Otherwise, what are my options? I've not had

Great, thanks! It's a 1978 photo but clearly not a post 1960-built car :)

<http://www.mindspring.com/~clzeni/grills/NYSW_Boxcar_Y1978.jpg> I see a lot of things on it, but nothing that really tells me the car's heritage. Thanks, Craig Zeni Cary NC

Walter, my bottle is every bit of 10 years old and might be 20 years old....worked fine last year. Craig Zeni Cary NC

Reasonably good and an easy way to get a very common car on your layout but....weird truck mounts and the trucks themselves are pretty ghastly...very flat and with the wheel ribs *printed* on the back

A turnout discussion? On a freight car list? Now that's a switch. I'll get my hat and show myself out..... Craig Zeni "Bother..." said Pooh as he chambered another round.

Bill, As I've mentioned here a couple of times, the Cypox is my preferred adhesive now. It works very very well, better than regular CA products and better than the old Cool Chem stuff. I did not have

The O&WCS web site is almost invariably very out of date; I bought his last pair of Genesis F3s several years ago but they're still listed on the web site. Best to call and see what Al has on the shel

I have purchased some of the cars and they're lovely...really nice cars. Every car they've offered are very well done. SMD's communication skills, however...you will need to be very patient with them.

If you're referring to the 158 scale head couplers (pipe down over there, Sergent users!) I've found them to be quite reliable provided your track isn't just awful. We run 100 cars trains on our modul

I am a longtime SC user. It DOES dry slow, relative to the acrylics. But I'm not modeling for speed so I've no problem letting it dry several days or more before using a second color/masking/decaling.

I used Chameleon on a SMMW car. The doors and running boards balled up into wads of uselessness; the main body casting was unfazed. Curious indeed. But short answer - use brake fluid, Scalecoat Rinse

I also recommend PPD. They did my NW2 switcher grills along with my O&W grill heralds...very reasonably priced with excellent fast service and great quality. http://www.mindspring.com/~clzeni/grills/N