Pierre, recognizing that you truly need no advice from me or just about anyone else in how to build models, Bill Darnaby's post on this list some years ago (#20484) and Ted Cullotta (#36207) on buildi

The coefficient of friction between the steel and/or brass axle ends (journals) and cylindrical brass bearings is greater, probably by a significant degree, than that between the same axle ends and th

The axles on the Kadee .088" wheel sets are plastic, identical to their other wheels. They roll best in their own trucks, and look good doing so. Denny Denny S. Anspach MD Sacramento

This thread has been very interesting on several levels, not the least of which is that the comments on Floquil (particularly by Andy Harman) reflect almost exactly my own experience. I still have -an

By definition, all modelers live in a vicarious world of imagination. Although Andy Harman expresses my major thoughts and beliefs on Prototype modeling far better than I could do so by myself, I also

Bill, do not rely on glue alone to hold coupler boxes. Although this CAN work (any number of old coupler boxes GOO'd to the floors of old models have only come off with parts of the floors still attac

Bill, my friend: Make it easy on yourself. Clip the pins. Use Barge Cement. Relax. KISS (the principle, not literal). Denny Denny S. Anspach, MD Sacramento

John, my own repeated rollability test data shows that the #566 Kadee Barber S2b truck rolls best with either the 1.020" or 1.025" Reboxx wheelsets (both in the lower acceptable range), with the 1.030

The California State Railroad Museum has in its collections Western Pacific stock car #75893, a converted box car originally built in 1916. I personally picked out this car (and two DS box cars) from

The Westerfield cars were double-sheathed 42' cars constructed by the thousands by Bettendorf, Milwaukee's own shops, and at least one other manufacturer in 1912 & 13. They all shared I-beam Bettendor

I will second the kudos bestowed on this recent meet by Messrs. Aley, Smith, and Welch et al. This was the meet's 12th year, and my 12th attendance. 1) The meet itself ran flawlessly and seamlessly, g

Incompatible reweigh dates: Well, in my world of railroading imagination of any given moment, the reweigh dates may well be whatever suits me, if I even think about them! If the rare observer is rude

I never met Larry Jackman, although he insisted on sending me a crate (yes) full of slides, none of which are identified in any rational way. However, they cover the details of seeming hundreds of pie

A lot of interesting and critical replies: My question arose from a recent experience with some relatively ancient, but otherwise still very fine Champ decals whose decal paper simply would not "wet"

To reduce surface tension, how many of you use any form of "wet" water for decaling; and if so, just what methods do you use to wet the water? I have long been tempted to go this route, but have been

It is a mystery to me. I use a lot of ACC, and identical tubes of the thin fast stuff will respectively last 1) one day 2) one week 3) one month or 4) 6 months treated exactly the same. I too religiou

Unless shiny brass is a requirement for display purposes. However, the usual tarnish should be of no concern if the model is to painted; that is, if the usual routine common sense preparations for pai

Chris-Craft and other similar small-boat builders most commonly shipped just about everything by rail until well after the war. My own personal family 1946 ChrisCraft was shipped from CC's Caruthersvi

Al Brown writes- Al has this just right. Although I do find the Plastruct 0.010" styrene rod extremely useful for a lot of things, for me it simply does not substitute for good old genuine metal in mo

The PSC valves are the best (as accurately -as always- pointed out to me some years ago by Mont Switzer). Purchase them in sufficient numbers so that you do not have to go back to the well more than o